Gauge Reface

[jlmccuan]

Here is a little project I started. With a 40+ year old car, it's getting more difficult to get a period looking cluster, especially if you want slightly different gauges, such as voltage rather than amps, or a higher revving tach or speedo. I started out with a good tach with the correct font lettering and numbers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/0310081858a_1-1.jpg

Found a left sweep 180MPH speedo, just to be a little different.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF3275-1.jpg

Refaced the speedo to match the tach and added a high beam LED.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF4148-1.jpg


Here's the original cluster.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF2819-1.jpg

And now the updated tach and speedo.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF4150-1.jpg


Next to the volt meter. Here's the original ammeter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF2813-1.jpg


Here's the SW voltage meter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/0310081858-1.jpg


Here are the gauge faces awaiting cutting and laminating

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF3261-1.jpg
I'll add the steps of the reface if you like.

[SaturnVUEguy]

I'd like to see the steps

[carterhickmandesigns]

I would like to see the steps as well. Who did the face printing and what did they print on? I am going to be doing some faces as well, so this would be good to see.

Thanks
Carter

[ProMav71]

I third that. Very interested to see the step involved in this.

[jlmccuan]

I'll put some pics together of the process. It may not follow 1 gauge through the process, but all the steps are there, just different gauges all going through the same process.

[jlmccuan]

OK, here goes. I'll add and edit this post for clarity and as I get more pictures uploaded. Please ask any questions you like, be patient and consider this a work in process.

First disassemble the new gauge. I used a screwdriver and gradually uncrimped the bezel from the body.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF3257-1.jpg

This gives you acces to the face.

I used waterslide decal paper for color laserjets and inkjets to print the gauge faces. I got mine from Microscale.

Using a picture of the new gauge, I outlined the hash marks and needle pivot point in AutoCAD. This keeps the scale correct as the new gauges rarely are the same as the more vintage stuff.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/GaugeFace-1.jpg

Then I used Photoshop to place the correct fonts for the lettering and numbers and add the colors. I use my print settings to make the background black and the lettering white.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/VoltagePrint-1.jpg

You are printing the black and colors and the white decal background becomes the white lettering and hashes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF3262-1.jpg

I used a color laser but an inkjet will work as well. The printer I used didn't have a waterfast ink, so I had to apply a fixative to keep it from smearing when the decal is applied. I used Testor's Dullcote, but a flat lacquer clear will work. Two medium coats will do the trick.

What I wanted was the new gauge and movement, but the vintage look. Here is a new fuel gauge and the printed waterslide decal with the fonts and hash marks of the original. You can see the stock fuel gauge in the pic in the first post.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/DSCF3263-1.jpg

Next, we prep the gauge face. Using a semi gloss or gloss black lacquer, apply 2 medium coats to create a blank face with a slick surface to receive the printed decal.

Now we apply the decal, just like the decals you put on models. Because the decal is waterproofed by the Dullcote, it takes a lot longer for the paper backing to separate from the decal -like 5 to 10 minutes.

While the printed waterslide decal is soaking apply Micro Set to the gauge face with a small brush.

Place the separated decal carefully on the prepped gauge face and using a brush dipped in Micro Set or water, smooth it and push any air pockets to the outside. You have some time here, so don't rush it. As long as you keep it wet, you can work with it.



When the decal is centered and aligned lightly press a paper towel to pull the water off the decal surface.



Use a razor knife to trim the edges and put any needed holes in the decal. This will expose some of the underlying white in areas you trim. If it on the outer edge and covered by the bezel or needle, you can leave it, but I use a black permanent marker to touch up any white.


Allow the applied decal to dry overnight. Seal everything down with a double wet coat of semi gloss lacquer.



Reassemble the gauge, and your good to go.



There are all kinds of tips on modelling sites to learn the little tricks that make applying waterslides easier and improve quality.

More pics to come to illustrate the directions....

[Hammered]

I've always wanted to do something like this, but won't these fade in the sun? I thought ink jet inks only hold their color for a year or so and laser jet inks for maybe two?

[jlmccuan]

The use of the exterior lacquer will filter the UV and protect the color.

[neki67]

Don't wanna be cocky but you can also do this with inkjet photopaper to which you apply some spray on glue to make it stick to the old gaugeface.

To get the needle pointer off,here's a little trick I learned:use 2 (tea) spoons and use them as small prybars to lift the needle off. Put the 2 opposite to eachother, with the big ends facing eachother, under the needle where it is pressed to the shaft and apply equal pressure to the small ends of the spoons. Hope that makes sense and otherwise I'll have to search for a picture of it. But please take it into consideration 'cause on some gauges the tiny shaft that holds the needle may bent or worse, break!