Drum/Drum to Disc/Drum now going to Disc/Disc

[68Formula]

Sorry, but I am not brake savvy, so the more information I found, the more confused I got so I wanted to address my situation specifically.

The vehicle is a first gen Firebird which was converted by the PO from all drums to disc/drum using a Baer kit and adjustable proportioning valve. I’m now swapping in a rearend that already had LT1 brakes installed. Baer indicated the master cylinder is appropriately sized for this setup.

Now, is there anything else that needs to be addressed? Is there a residual valve that I need to look for that should be removed or replaced with a new valve? Or did this have to be removed when the PO did the work in order for the brakes to function? What setting should the line pressures be at for balance or how does one go about this? I think there is a jumper hose section, does this need to be replaced because of the higher line pressures in the rear?

Remember brakes are not my thing, so please type slow. :-)

[Apogee]

You should check to see if there's a 10# residual pressure valve (RPV) in the rear system for the drum brakes, as this should be removed for a disc/disc configuration. The RPV would normally be in the master cylinder port to the rear brakes in the form of a conical brass disc with a small hole in the center and a check ball and spring behind it. You can remove it with a sharp pointed wood screw. Most aftermarket RPV's are plumbed in line and look like a small cylindrical barrel.

If you mean the rear center drop hose being the "jumper", this hose goes from the body to the axle and should be replaced if it is rubber and more than 5 years old or exhibiting any swelling or cracking. It's typically a good idea to swap to braided stainless if you're running braided stainless at all of the calipers just for pedal feel.

Tobin
KORE3

[68Formula]

Thanks. I am guessing the Baer master cylinder doesn't have this valve, but I will check with them.

Thanks for the tip on the braided stainless.