68 GTO Project

[Roadbuster]

Just wanted to post up some shots of the work in progress that is my 68 GTO. Current project is new front suspension and while I am at it the brakes too. I am doing this myself with lots of research on the site here. I started this in March of this year.

Here is what is going in SC&C's (http://scandc.com) Street Comp AFX suspension (Thanks Mark!) amongst other stuff:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1357small-1.jpg

The old front suspension (not so clean under here):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1360small-1.jpg

Old front suspension removed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1397small-1.jpg

The pro-wheelie jackstand look:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1398small-1.jpg

New suspension mocked up and I started to clean up the frame:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1442small-1.jpg

Jon

[oestek]

Looks cool. It's really going to drive nicely when you're finished. Those are some funky looking headers from this angle... what are they? What's the specs on the rest of the car?

[Roadbuster]

More pics:
Getting the bolt in near the header was a pain. The header had to come out because I didn't want the nylock near the heat shield.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/CIMG1516-1.jpg

AFX spindles and coil overs are in. You can't see the 1 inch coil spacer on top of the spring
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1522small-1.jpg

Underside view:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1531-1.jpg

Here it is back on the wheels (still need to adjust the coil overs). This is about 5.5 inches from the frame behind the front wheel to the ground! Having the rear at about stock height doesn't help the geometry.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1525small-1.jpg

Still have lots of details to do. Next is to paint the firewall. That hydroboost looks too pretty next to the tired firewall. I am going to order a wilwood master and need to run the brake lines.

Jon

[Roadbuster]

Looks cool. It's really going to drive nicely when you're finished. Those are some funky looking headers from this angle... what are they? What's the specs on the rest of the car?

Thanks for the compliment!

:dunno: I don't know what the headers are, they came with the car. I know they are old - they have 4-bolt collector flanges that are 3 inches in diameter.

The car was in the process of being converted into a drag car (so I was told) when I got it. It has a Pontiac 400, TH400 and a BOP 3.23 rear. The engine has been built and runs strong though it still needs some tuning. The interior is stock for the moment. Here is a better overall pic (before the front end work started) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/10/Roadbusters_682-1.jpg

Front end has a Lee power steering box and a new Moog linkage and a hydroboost is going in

Future plans are to do the rear suspension, rear end and a T56 trans and a new set of wheels as my budget allows .

Jon

[deadend1970]

really nice car the modifications are looking great too

[ponchopwr70]

Nice car!

[PT Goat]

Sweet!

[Code Red]

real nice man check out my 68 GTO project


btw any interest in possibly selling your old front disc setup? mine has drums all the way around

[Roadbuster]

Thanks for all the compliments guys!

Code Red

btw any interest in possibly selling your old front disc setup? mine has drums all the way around

The front disks look like a '69 up setup. I am not quite ready to sell them just incase I need some little part. The disks are shot. They had grooves in the pads and in the rotors and were a bit of a pain to separate from the calipers!

I have been watching your thread - that is a lot of work you are doing!

Jon

[tom_a]

Looks good!

[guccieng]

update your profile. it says 'soon to have...

[Roadbuster]

update your profile. it says 'soon to have...

Profile Updated! :)

[Roadbuster]

I could not stand to put in the hydroboost with the firewall looking like this. It just did not look right

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1689-1.jpg

So this weekend I painted the firewall. Much better! :twothumbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1700-1.jpg

Note that the top of the firewall will be painted later - I need some seam sealer first.

Jon

[Roadbuster]

I found out when I removed the power steering bracket that it is cast aluminum. It didn't look all that cool. I decided to try and give it a brushed finish. After a LOT of sanding, filing and dremel work this is what it looks like:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1698-1.jpg

In this shot you can see what it looked like initially in the inset area. This will be against the head and you won't see it when installed. It also has the part number cast into it so I didn't want to sand it smooth.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1699-1.jpg

These shots show it with the 220 grit sanding almost done. A little bit more and then once again with 360 and it should look like a machined part!

Jon

[Motown 454]

It all looks good nice job on the clean up and paint
Wayne

[Code Red]

I could not stand to put in the hydroboost with the firewall looking like this. It just did not look right

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1689-1.jpg

So this weekend I painted the firewall. Much better! :twothumbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/CIMG1700-1.jpg

Note that the top of the firewall will be painted later - I need some seam sealer first.

Jon

what did you end of using for paint?

also did you not fill in all the little dents? thats going to be my big thing once I get my excess holes filled is to fill in the little dents

[Roadbuster]

Code Red,
I used Eastwood's Underhood Black paint. Yep rattle can. Just scuffed, masked, cleaned, primed and painted.

I did not do any body work. I don't have the tools for that (yet :naughty: ) and I want to do it by welding the holes and pounding out all the dents. My A/C is not working so I have not made a decision on that yet. So for now just a new coat of paint to let me get on with putting in the hydroboost and plumbing the brakes so I can drive it! :woot:

Your firewall will look sweet given the quality of all the other work you are doing on your 68!

Jon

[Roadbuster]

It all looks good nice job on the clean up and paint
Wayne

Thanks for the complement Wayne :twothumbs I still have a long way to go in the engine compartment detailing.

Jon

[Code Red]

Code Red,
I used Eastwood's Underhood Black paint. Yep rattle can. Just scuffed, masked, cleaned, primed and painted.

I did not do any body work. I don't have the tools for that (yet :naughty: ) and I want to do it by welding the holes and pounding out all the dents. My A/C is not working so I have not made a decision on that yet. So for now just a new coat of paint to let me get on with putting in the hydroboost and plumbing the brakes so I can drive it! :woot:

Your firewall will look sweet given the quality of all the other work you are doing on your 68!

Jon

thanks though I'm still a amatuer at most of this stuff but I'm learning lol

My brother also deserves some of the credit

[Roadbuster]

Its all installed!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/CIMG1870_2-1.jpg

I need to dial it in: Set the final ride height and align it again.

Sorry its short - I had a hard disk crash and need to sort it out.

It never ends, the rear springs are giving out - so they are next!

Jon

[67speedfreak]

Man love the car and love the color.

I will own a 68 GTO with hidaways someday. Next to the Camaro it is my favorate.

Brian

[Code Red]

Its all installed!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/CIMG1870_2-1.jpg

I need to dial it in: Set the final ride height and align it again.

Sorry its short - I had a hard disk crash and need to sort it out.

It never ends, the rear springs are giving out - so they are next!

Jon

very nice - italian accent

[Roadbuster]

67speedfreak and CodeRed:
Thanks for the comments! Glad you guys like it!

I got a few more pictures of stuff done:

Power steering cooler - since the pump now runs the Lee P/S box and the Hydroboost. I mounted it low in front of the radiator but behind the front valance. Gotta hook up the horns and clean this area up!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/IMG_0230-1.jpg

Hydroboost installed with the lines run behind the fender. I think they look clean routed out of the way. I will hide the other lines as well.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/CIMG1963-1.jpg

Powersteering pump cleaned up and the satin finished mount installed
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/CIMG1962-1.jpg

This how low it sits right now:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/CIMG1964-1.jpg

I have a fender-well clearance problem running this low. There are two problem points. One is this little bump in the top of the inner fender which I just touch the inside of in bump:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/IMG_0235-1.jpg

The other is at the rear of the front fenders. The front fenders on a GTO are shaped like a C and cut in at the front and rear. The rear of the front fender is where I have an issue with the wheels turned about halfway.

So I ordered new wheels and tires. The new fronts should move the outer edge of the tire inward 1/4 inch and they are 0.7 inches smaller in diameter. This should fix my clearance problem.


I have only zipped up around the block so there is more tuning to do but it rides and handles great! A massive improvement over what I replaced!

[Roadbuster]

Some stuff I have been doing while waiting for the wheels:

Had to modify this window roller to get my drivers window to align right. The top one is for a 69 GTO, and they don't make one for a 68. The bottom is after modification and it is not perfect like a factory one but it close enough for me to get the window alignment right using the adjustment in the window track. To do this I used a drill, a dremel, a die, and a file. Took about 30 minutes and I am happy with the results.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/IMG_0279-1.jpg

Rear suspension updates:
Mark at SC&C is very helpful and I am following his recommendations on the suspension setup.
New springs: 175lbs/in, 11 inch free length Hypercoils from Speedway Motors. Here they are next to the tired stockers. The stockers should have a 14 inch free length - not these.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG1977-1.jpg

New Varishocks from SC&C:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG1978-1.jpg

With the new springs and shocks in the back, it dropped it about an inch from previous. This just killed my ground clearance since my headers are now just 2 inches off the ground. When I get the new wheels and tires the rears will be a little taller and I will adjust the front suspension to set the ride height, since the fronts are a little smaller than current.

Jon

[Roadbuster]

My new Forgeline wheels came in with tires! I ordered them from Frank at Prodigy Customs and got in on this (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47827) deal. Great service from Frank!

18x11 and 18x9 SO3 with Toyo R888 tires
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/product_photoxlarge_image249-1.jpg

Rear tire: That is a 12 inch straight edge on top
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2019-1.jpg

Old vs. New rears:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2027-1.jpg

New vs. Old Fronts:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/IMG_0308-1.jpg

Aligning it:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2046-1.jpg

Side view: It is a little higher in the front but I now have some ground clearance. I drove through a parking lot and over some small speed bumps with no problem.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2052-1.jpg

Love this shot: The rears really fill out the wheel wells
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2053-1.jpg

Front view:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2058-1.jpg

[MrQuick]

very nice

[dmc69]

lookin good!

[shortrack]

LOVE IT with the new wheels/tires....!!

[tom_a]

Nice wheels. What size are the Toyo's front and back?

Thanks,

[craigs73]

what brand tires are those never mind i seen what they are i like the tred pattern do they have good traction?

[Motown 454]

Car looks very nice !
Wayne

[ponchopwr70]

Wow your car looks really good I like it alot!

[icebird84]

Excellent GTO

[bamadale]

that is on mean-looking GTO. love the orange paint,the suspension mods, and the new wheels!

[Roadbuster]

Thank you everyone for all the praise. :)



Nice wheels. What size are the Toyo's front and back?

Thanks,

Tom_a,
They are Toyo R888, 305/35R18 out back and 255/35R18 up front.

Craigs73,
They are sticky - I just took a quick drive yesterday and did not really scrub in the tires. I can tell they are an improvement but I have not pushed it yet to determine how much of an improvement. From my quick little test drive it is a major improvement.

Jon

btw anyone know how to do a double quote?

[GHOSTDANCER]

Good looking GTO

[Karch]

Looks sharp...I haven't noticed this one before.

Wheels look great too.

Are you stepping up to a 455? I have a std short block if interested.

Also, can anyone recommend an alignment shop, preferably west side or SFV? I have the same UCA, yet to install, and I really don't want to have to train someone how to adjust these.

Thanks.

[67speedfreak]

Car looks great !

love the new stance and the wheel and tires look great.

[ed1le]

Sweet Goat! Love the orange and the new wheels look awesome!

[1971CHEVELLE]

Really nice car

[oestek]

Looks awesome!

[Marauder]

I agree, the car looks fantastic! I'm interested in hearing your impressions of the suspension upgrades as I'm considering some of these as well.

FYI - Eastwood makes a "grey phosphate" spray paint just for hood hinges. I used it on mine and they turned out real nice. Much cheaper than sending them out for the plating like the guys that want them 100% original do.

[Roadbuster]

Looks awesome!
Thanks Kevin!


Looks sharp...I haven't noticed this one before.

Wheels look great too.

Are you stepping up to a 455? I have a std short block if interested.

Also, can anyone recommend an alignment shop, preferably west side or SFV? I have the same UCA, yet to install, and I really don't want to have to train someone how to adjust these.

Thanks.


I agree, the car looks fantastic! I'm interested in hearing your impressions of the suspension upgrades as I'm considering some of these as well.

FYI - Eastwood makes a "grey phosphate" spray paint just for hood hinges. I used it on mine and they turned out real nice. Much cheaper than sending them out for the plating like the guys that want them 100% original do.

Karsch and Marauder,
I love the suspension! I am still feeling it out but it corners flat and predictable. It made the car more solid. As I am getting the feel for it I am pushing it more. It handles like my wife's 545! The tires don't chirp on the 1-2 shift like the old ones, so I need to learn how they behave at the limit.

Plans are to do the rest of the rear suspension next year. I need to replace the rag joint and steering shaft with a new collapsable shaft and a universal joint. Doing my research and getting ready to order the parts.

Karsch,
For an alignment, I have had my wife's 545 aligned at Bud's in Riverside. A bit of a drive but I got a recommendation from the local Porsche shop and Porsche club. Good job on the alignment and reasonable too! I will take the GTO there to compare my home alignment and see just how close I am and get a good baseline.

Thanks for the offer on the 455, but the 400 I have is built and runs strong for now.

Jon

[Karch]

Thanks Jon.

Riverside is just too far for me, but thanks anyways.

[Roadbuster]

I never liked the exhaust exit on my car since I got it. Adding the wheels and tires just seems to call more attention to them and I think they would look better if I just shortened them so they would be seen.

Here is what they looked like before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2083-1.jpg

Marked for cutting at a slight turnout:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2082-1.jpg

Cut off:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2088-1.jpg

and after:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/CIMG2087-1.jpg

Looks much better and you have to get under the car to see them. I will get under there with some paint after the holidays I did this while it was raining.

Jon

[ed1le]

Jon, are you running the 18x11s with stock rear wheelwells? I know you can fit a lot of meat under the back of the 68-72 A-bodies but that's impressive for that large a tire I think. I'm looking to run a similar set up, what backspacing are you running? Thanks!

[RBARNES496]

Good job looks great so far.I like the orange w/5spokes. I also have a 68 gto, more of a restomod those parts are rare! keep up the good work.

[Roadbuster]

Jon, are you running the 18x11s with stock rear wheelwells? I know you can fit a lot of meat under the back of the 68-72 A-bodies but that's impressive for that large a tire I think. I'm looking to run a similar set up, what backspacing are you running? Thanks!

Ed1le, Yes they are 18x11. I don't have a stock axle so the back space is unique to my car. I took a lot of measurements to get it to be centered in the wheel well. A 1970 Skylark might have more room, but it is best to measure. An 11 inch rim is actually 12 inches outside to outside. I had to remove some thick undercoating and make a tweak or two to make them fit and keep my fender trim.


Good job looks great so far.I like the orange w/5spokes. I also have a 68 gto, more of a restomod those parts are rare! keep up the good work.

Thanks for the compliments Street Rod. I want to keep the style close to the original with some modern touches. Yeah, finding 68 GTO parts can be pain since a lot of them are one year, one model parts! Good luck with your ride!


Jon

[claytonisbob]

That is a really slick looking car. Big difference when you swiched wheels, makes it look like a totally different car (in a very good way).

My dad has a '68 Goat and I've been drooling over it since I was a little boy. Definily like the orange without "The Judge" stickers from '69... ick. It seems the only GTO's I see that color are '69s with Judge decaling.

BTW, exact suspension setup I plan on soon... wish I had those Toyos. They're not too harsh of a ride are they? They're more of a track tire aren't they?

[Roadbuster]

When I bought my Lee steering box I also bought a new rag joint. Seems that my car has had the steering shaft changed at some point its life and a late model 800 series steering box and matching shaft were installed. I returned the rag joint and used the setup I had. It was worn out and there was too much play in the steering. The play was from the worn out rag joint and the upper joint was worn out as well. Time to replace it all. Since I needed a new shaft any way I wanted to get rid of the rag joint.

With some advice from Marc at SC&C I called Borgeson, and after a chat with tech support I ordered up a new collapsable steering shaft, new vibration dampening lower u-joint and new upper u-joint. PN (014352 U joint, 034931 Damper U joint, 450024 24" Telescopic Shaft)

The Borgeson stuff is nice! Here is the new setup after trimming to fit and assembling next to the old:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/CIMG2161-1.jpg



After installing it made a world of difference! The car handled great before, but I had to watch it because of the slop in the steering shaft. Not good when tackling twisties. Now it responds instantly to the steering wheel. There is no slop in this setup now and I get to keep the safety feature of the collapsable shaft! :twothumbs

Jon

[Roadbuster]

That is a really slick looking car. Big difference when you swiched wheels, makes it look like a totally different car (in a very good way). ...

Thanks! That is what I was looking for! I was looking for a more aggressive/sinister look.


... My dad has a '68 Goat and I've been drooling over it since I was a little boy. Definily like the orange without "The Judge" stickers from '69... ick. It seems the only GTO's I see that color are '69s with Judge decaling. ...

I drooled over my dad's cars when I was kid too! I still do! I get my love of cars from my dad. :) The color is a custom color, with less red than the Carousel Red used in 69. I hear you on the stickers - I think the cars look cleaner without them. The font was a little dated.


... BTW, exact suspension setup I plan on soon... wish I had those Toyos. They're not too harsh of a ride are they? They're more of a track tire aren't they?

Marc is the man for the suspension! The Toyo R888 are a real sticky tire, DOT legal but designed more for road racing. To me I have not noticed a ride difference between the new Toyos and the KDWS I used to have on the car. That is going from a 245/45R17 to the 255/35R18s up front with less sidewall. There is a definite performance advantage. Much better grip! and the tires hook much better!

Jon

[cdoggy81]

VERY NICE!!! Love to see the Pontiac's getting some love :)

What did that steering setup run you BTW?

[Grngoat]

Man that looks nice. I was just about to rebuild my stock steering shaft too. That's out. I'm calling Borgeson for sure.

Been following your thread. Like what you're doing, keep up the good work.

[Roadbuster]

VERY NICE!!! Love to see the Pontiac's getting some love :)

What did that steering setup run you BTW?

Thanks!

It was about 270 direct from Borgeson. Almost half of that is the damping lower U-joint.

Jon

[4spdharry]

Thanks for all the pictures - I enjoy seeing the different ideas in motion

SC&C will probably get some of my $$$ soon

[blown9746]

looking awesome

[67goatman455]

wow, your car looks insane! I am in love, just take a pressure washer to the engine bay please, lol. Thank you for my new desktop background by the way.

[Roadbuster]

Thanks for all the compliments guys!



wow, your car looks insane! I am in love, just take a pressure washer to the engine bay please, lol. Thank you for my new desktop background by the way.

I need paint in the engine bay. That is overspray and just plain faded paint. My wiring is on the list to replace, so I don't want to mix it with water just yet!

Jon

[jfaria78]

Nice Car and sweet wheels... Now at least I know what you are talking about :)

[Code Red]

looking good man I'm starting to get back to work on my 68

[tripower]

Looks awesome! Is your Lee box a 600 series or an upgraded 800?

I'm looking to upgrade and not sure if rebuilding and tweaking my 800 is the way to go versus picking up a 600 box. If Lee can get an 800 box dialed in and feeling "modern" (read R&P like) then that may be the way to go.

Nice to see other PT Ponchos out here.

[cdoggy81]

"If Lee can get an 800 box dialed in and feeling "modern" (read R&P like) than that may be the way to go."

He can, call them & they will explain it. IIRC the total rebuild service with that new "modern feel" is ~ $400

[Roadbuster]

Looks awesome! Is your Lee box a 600 series or an upgraded 800?

I'm lloking to upgrade and not sure if rebuilding and trweaking my 800 is the way to go versus picking up a 600 box. If Lee can get an 800 box dialed in and feeling "modern" (read R&P like) than that may be the way to go.

Nice to see other PT Ponchos out here.

Hey tripower, I have the 600 series box. My 800 series was of questionable origin so I replaced it. The side benefit is that I had all the parts when I started the project. The only part I reused from the front suspension was the pitman arm.

Been working on several projects need to update the thread!

Jon

[tripower]

Hey tripower, I have the 600 series box. My 800 series was of questionable origin so I replaced it. The side benefit is that I had all the parts when I started the project. The only part I reused from the front suspension was the pitman arm.

Been working on several projects need to update the thread!

Jon

I'm with you - My entire front suspension has less than 1K miles on it and I didn't re-use anything...all new stuff. I had an 800 box gone through and done with fast ratio but am not happy with the feel. I'm guessing the 800 box I have is in good shape and may need Tom Lee's "magic touch".

I'm trying to determine what the differences between a Lee 600 box and a Lee 800 box to justify the extra $100.

[tripower]

"If Lee can get an 800 box dialed in and feeling "modern" (read R&P like) than that may be the way to go."

He can, call them & they will explain it. IIRC the total rebuild service with that new "modern feel" is ~ $400

Thanks for the info and the rough cost. If a rebuild is around $400 and I can pick up a Lee 800 box for around $515 (with no core) as I've seen on a couple of sites I may just pick up a box. It sounds like to get the most out of the system to have Lee set up a pump matched to the box. I'd go with an early narrow neck P-series pump.

[Roadbuster]

I'm with you - My entire front suspension has less than 1K miles on it and I didn't re-use anything...all new stuff. I had an 800 box gone through and done with fast ratio but am not happy with the feel. I'm guessing the 800 box I have is in good shape and may need Tom Lee's "magic touch".

I'm trying to determine what the differences between a Lee 600 box and a Lee 800 box to justify the extra $100.


The "feel" of the box is a delicate setup. If you have a built 800 you don't like, you could get a Lee box and then sell the box you have. Could put you a bit ahead of sending the box in to be built.

Did you replace the rag joint? It made a world of difference!

Jon

[tripower]

The "feel" of the box is a delicate setup. If you have a built 800 you don't like, you could get a Lee box and then sell the box you have. Could put you a bit ahead of sending the box in to be built.

Did you replace the rag joint? It made a world of difference!

Jon

I'm thinking the same - I could buy a Lee box and matched pump and sell the box I have and most likely be ahead of sending/dropping off my box for a rebuild. I converted from manual to power so I added a new rag joint as well as replaced the lower column bushing/bearing.

The only question in my mind is what is the difference between a Lee 600 and 800 as far as real world feel and does it justify the extra 100 bones.

Looking forward to updates on your Goat - I haven't been on the site in a while and I'm happy to see a lot more Ponchos being pro-toured on here than I recall in the past.

[Roadbuster]

I decided to put in the next phase of the rear suspension. The first was new springs and shocks. This phase is the control arms.

I installed a set of Currie rear arms I got from SC&C:

Uppers:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2305w-1.jpg

Lowers:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2304w-1.jpg
Sorry for the cell phone pics by my wife had the camera for the day.

The lowers are real nice aluminum pieces, visible if you look for them but not obvious. The uppers are real beefy, I had to go and get a new wrench big enough to adjust them. 1 and 3/8 or 1 and 1/2 inches!

Install was not without some cursing! The Johnny Joints fit very tight and so do the bushings. Even greased they took a lot of persuasion to get in and I had to be careful to avoid damaging that aluminum! Did I mention that I don't have a lift?

At the same time I installed a set of Edelbrock tubular braces to reinforce the mount area. They fit nice and tight and clear the body and my exhaust.

All this really improved the feel of the car in the back and the braces make the rear suspension stiffer. I was surprised at how much - I had to back the shocks off one click to get the same ride as before.

Jon

[Code Red]

I like them just send them to me ;-)

[MIGOAT]

WOW it looks great I love the orange with black wheels. I'm going to be doing almost the exact same front set up. My ride is still sporting the air shok look in the rear. Just wanted to say it looks great!!!!

[aaron]

Looks Awesome. Thank you for taking the time to setup this thread. I have a 68 too, and after 5 plus years in the garage am finally getting close to having it on the road again.

You mentioned that you don't have a stock rear axle setup. Can you elaborate? And I looked twice but didn't see if you mentioned the backspacing you went with for both your front and rear wheels? Can you tell us your wheel setup? Thanks, and again looks awesome.

[Roadbuster]

Thanks guys! :)

[Roadbuster]

My original seats are shot and I got tired of sitting on a moving blanket to prevent getting poked by the exposed springs. So it was time to upgrade the seats!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2386-1.jpg

These are Sparco Milanos I got from Jim at Motorsportseats.com (http://www.motorsportseats.com).

Great deal on the seats and he also hooked me up with a set of custom brackets to move the seats back and down. :1st: I am 6'4" and redoing the stock seats would of had my head into the roof! Thanks Jim!

Some more pics:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2384-1.jpg

They clear my Morris seatbelts:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2394-1.jpg

and the center console:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2391-1.jpg

drivers side with the lower adjustment a bit out:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2388-1.jpg

Yes I know the rest of my interior needs lots of help.

Jon

[tom_a]

Those look great. That's a nice upgrade!

[ed1le]

You spare no expense when you do upgrades! Lookin' good! :)

[ponchopwr70]

Those look nice in there and they must weigh 30lbs lighter. I'm in the process of getting race seats, I had my factory seats redone but they don't hold you in. I'll most likely go with the chrona roads.

[67speedfreak]

Love the seats. Car is lookin great keep up the good work.

Brian

[AUSCAMARO]

I've recently painted my 68 Camaro Orange and now the polished alloy C5's look a bit out of place. Your car looks sweet with the black centre rims and after looking at your pics a number of times I rekon I may go for that approach too.

Very nice GTO.

Mitch

[Roadbuster]

Thanks for the compliments guys!:twothumbs


Those look nice in there and they must weigh 30lbs lighter. I'm in the process of getting race seats, I had my factory seats redone but they don't hold you in. I'll most likely go with the chrona roads.

x2 on the factory seats not holding you in. Those Chrona Roads will look nice in your Poncho!

I did weigh the seats and they are heavier than I thought. Only about 4 pounds lighter than the stock seats. These are Sparco's leather street seats with recline and flip forward for rear seat access. They really hold you in and do not require a roll bar to brace the seats. The big surprise was the custom mounts. They weigh 9 pounds each! All done I gained about 10 pounds, but well worth it now that I can really fit in the car and the seats nicely hold me in place. I think I could trim a pound or two if I really want to.

Most of the really light race seats require a brace to a cage. I have no plans to put a harness bar or cage in the car. I want to be able to take my 2 year old daughter on drives so I have to have a functional back seat. Now a removable harness bar for open track days...:)

Jon

[ponchopwr70]

Im surprised they were that much. I just ordered corbeau trs seats instead. I got them from motorsportseats. I also bought schroth 4pt harnesses. They are the only harness you can run with out a cage and I"m sure the new set-up is safer than the stock set-up. Might be something to look into and would be easier than a harness bar. I can't wait to try them out at the autocross in 2 weeks.

[796spdbu]

Very beautiful car. I love that color. Did I read it right that it is a custom color? Your wheels tie into your car seamlessly! Nice build!
Growning up I fall in love with a 70 lemans that was my brothers neighbors. I have always wanted one since. Its no GTO but It etched my memory forever.

[Capown]

Man i was never a real fan of the 68's but damn I love ur car!! Very nice write up and work!!

[Roadbuster]

Very beautiful car. I love that color. Did I read it right that it is a custom color? Your wheels tie into your car seamlessly! Nice build!
Growning up I fall in love with a 70 lemans that was my brothers neighbors. I have always wanted one since. Its no GTO but It etched my memory forever.


Man i was never a real fan of the 68's but damn I love ur car!! Very nice write up and work!!

Thanks for the compliments guys! I will try to get some more photos of the interior since I replaced the carpet with black carpet. Looks much better!

796spdbu, yes it is a custom color and was painted when I got it. I like the 70 LeMans. We had a 70 LeMans when I was young. Loved that car. It is why I went for a Pontiac.

Jon


Jon

[johnnyj]

any new updates on the car?? BTW looks great! I love how its turned out so far

[Roadbuster]

any new updates on the car?? BTW looks great! I love how its turned out so far

Yep. I have been busy with getting the car ready for RTTC (and having a blast there!) and other things going on and just have not gotten around to posting updates. Got all the photos uploaded so I can start. First one tonight and then the rest I have over the next few days. Thanks for the compliments!

[Roadbuster]

As everyone can see the carpet in my car was shot. It was the original carpet and looked every bit of the 42 years old.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/CIMG2388-1.jpg

Got rid of that mess and cleaned the floor and installed about 40 square feet (just over one box) of dynamat extreme. I didn't go all the way up the firewall, just where the carpet goes up to and under the back seat. This quieted the car down inside a little bit and helps keep out some of the heat from the headers. Sorry no photos of this. I need the firewall clear for a later project.

A new carpet kit in black with the original style loop was installed. Big improvement! This pretty much dropped in. Laid it out in the sun for a while and then a heat gun in a few spots. Needed some trimming on the sides and around the shifter but it was very easy to install.

New carpet (don't mind the pieces of lint!)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG3625-1.jpg

Up under the dash, I left it a little long so that the edge would not be visible. This is higher up than the factory carpet went.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG3619-1.jpg

My car originally had an Ivy Gold interior that I am slowly changing to black, which will go better with the orange exterior. The carpet made a huge step in the right direction. I wish I had done this sooner! The next major color change part will be the dash.

[Roadbuster]

Catching up on the modifications to the GTO. The next ones were done in preparation for the RTTC event.

To allow the car to breathe easier I decided to replace my factory closed hood scoops with open scoops. If the scoops are there they should be functional! I thought this would be the easiest of the RTTC mods but it just about took the longest. The scoops looked good out of the box but some block sanding and test fitting revealed that they needed some spot filler and lots of block sanding to shape them to fit the hood. After that and several coats of semi gloss black paint here is the result:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG35751-1.jpg

I now have a direct shot into the air cleaner but with out the RAM AIR pan under the hood and air cleaner I had to open up the HO air cleaner. The easiest way to do this and keep a breather that wouldn't leak oil was to combine the factory lower air cleaner with an aftermarket lid. You can see it through the scoops and here it is on the engine.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG3618-1.jpg
I used the factory base because of time reasons for the event, I was not confident that an aftermarket breather would keep oil from pouring out on the autocross and I had no time to test it. I knew this would work and the idea has grown on me. Weld up the old snorkel hole and make a custom pan with a seal to the factory base and I will have a fully functional cold air system!

[Roadbuster]

I ordered my Heliwig sway bars from SC&C well before the event. They are great pieces that fit very well, even with my low ride height and large back space front wheels. I got the 1.25 inch hollow front bar to replace my bent factory 1.0 inch solid bar and the 1.0 inch rear bar.

The front bar mounts in the factory location and even with shot (camera on the ground) the bar does not look out of place. The metallic grey hammer tone blends in with the undercarriage. As low as my car is this is the only way to see it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG3548-1.jpg

Since the bar is larger and I have larger than stock bolts, the mounts did not fit the factory holes and allow me to get the bolts on the flat part of the mount. I think the factory holes are 2.5 inches apart. I welded the front holes and drilled and tapped new holes on a 3 inch center spacing from the factory rear holes. This way I avoid any interference issues with the steering box bolts.

In the rear the installation was easy. Just drill 2 holes for the end link mounts in the crossmember and bolt in. The rear bar is adjustable with three adjustment holes. To get the rear bar level with the ground at ride height I have the end links as short as they will go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG3424-1.jpg

Bar tucks up tight to differential.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG3423-1.jpg

Yeah it is dirty under there!

[jocko124]

Looking good Jon.

[LeighP]

Thats a fine looking A body....I agree, that colour is great and you've really hit the look with the stance.

[GHOSTDANCER]

Great looking job :cheers:

[Brad1970]

awesome updates dude! keep it goin'!!!!

[Roadbuster]

For the RTTC event I wanted to have a fire system just in case something bad happened. Thankfully nothing did and I hope I never have to use it. I purchased a 5 lb Halon system from Safecraft. If comes with three nozzles, one for the passenger compartment and two for the engine compartment. I finished this the night before the event.

This pic shows the release bracket that I made to match the gauge pod. I didn't have time to paint it. Both the fire release bracket and the gauge pod use existing holes in my dash. You can just see the vertical tube that the passenger nozzle is attached to in the background.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/CIMG3619-1.jpg

The five pound bottle comes with this mount and brackets. I just bolted it to the trunk floor with four 1/4-20 bolts. one line goes to the passenger nozzle and the other goes to the engine compartment. The lines run through the rear seat brace and along the rocker on the drivers side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/CIMG3616-1.jpg

I am not happy with the way the lines ended up. I bought 25 ft of line and came up short for the engine compartment. I ran out of time to order more so I had to put the nozzles there but the positioning is not ideal. They mount near the rear of the engine and they should be near the front on each side. This is going to get redone with the dash rebuild. For that I am waiting on the A/C system to finalize the design as I will have all the parts to mount in the new aluminum dash.

[tazzz25906112]

Great job on a really good looking car, congratulations bud...

[Roadbuster]

Thanks for all the compliments!

[Brad1970]

Any recent updates Jon?

[Roadbuster]

Any recent updates Jon?

I have some things in work. But since my son was born 7 weeks ago I have been very busy. An infant and a 3 year old keep my wife and I very busy at the moment. When I have some time I try to work on the car but it is second priority right now. Working on it is my stress relief!

Jon

[ed1le]

I hear you...21 month old and a 2nd due in a couple of weeks...think my car is going to be untouched for a while as well!

[406 Q-ship]

That is why I refuse to grow up and have children.........

Jon I ended up with my Dads 69 GTO, well until I can make it drive a whole lot better. Rebuilding the front end, putting disc brakes on it, trying to get the clutch acceptable for awhile, and then addressing the electrical gremlins.

41815

[Brad1970]

I TOTALLY understand Jon... mine is a month old yesterday... I've managed to tinker with some seat brackets from time to time that's it though... Congrats on the newest addition by the way!

[mr_nice_guy]

I love the way this car sits, looks like its going a 100 standing still!!

[LeighP]

I like that fire system......I find myself out in the garage after the family have gone to bed...I was fitting front brake lines and drilling and tapping mounts for the clamps tonight....little jobs that all add to the progress.

[68nogoat]

You have a gorgeous car John. I am just starting my build of a 1968 LeMans, and a lot of the work you did on getting the stance right is going to come in handy. I am just beginning to build the chassis now (frame goes out for sandblasting on Monday) and I have been back to this build thread about a dozen times in the past month! Thanks for your contributions...its nice to see that not everyone starts with a Chevelle!

[liljohn442]

You dont see to many A-body GTO's on here. Car looks beautiful. Good luck.

[Roadbuster]

Thanks for all the good words guys!
I haven't posted much because family is taking up most of my time. A newborn and a 3 year old take up all of our time, but that is the way it should be. A little here and a little there (when everyone else is sleeping) and I am slowly making progress. I did a few late nights to prep for Run to the Coast 2 and made it to the track but missed the cruise.

[Roadbuster]

Here is the first of the projects I have been working on:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG3636-1.jpg

This is the Fays2 Watts link kit (weld in version) that I got from SC&C. I went with the weld in version because the car is set up so low and I wanted to run the watts frame as high as possible.

Mock up of link arms:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG3663-1.jpg

Mock up of watts frame template and arms:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG3661-1.jpg

Here are the reinforcement plates cut by jfaria (Thank you!) These are 1/8" thick to spread the load out. The kidney bean shape allows them to follow the frame contour.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1048-1.jpg

Another test fit to make sure I have this right:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG3701-1.jpg

Yes my tail pipes still fit (barely):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG3699-1.jpg

Welded it in place:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1166-1.jpg

Painting it after it is welded in place:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG4108-1.jpg

Final with the weight on the axle but no link bars installed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1186-1.jpg

[mplecha]

very nice!

[LeighP]

Nice mod....is your car at final weight/ride height? It was my understanding the bars should be parallel off the watts link bellcrank at static ride height.
Just wondering if the pic was just at mock up stage.

[rfalker1]

wow I great work, keep it up

[deejai35]

Awesome build. Thanks for sharing!

[Roadbuster]

Thanks guys! more to come as soon as I get the photos up.



Nice mod....is your car at final weight/ride height? It was my understanding the bars should be parallel off the watts link bellcrank at static ride height.
Just wondering if the pic was just at mock up stage.

Leigh,
The bars being parallel is just the easiest way to set it up. The real requirement is have to be the same length and at equal and opposite angles to ground and less than 90 degrees to the center link.

[Roadbuster]

The watts requires a new shorter tank

New late model Nova tank that uses a sealed cap:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG3643-1.jpg

Unmodified:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG36571-1.jpg

After a little bending here it is in the final position:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG3679-1.jpg

Tank from below with the stock tank straps in the factory locations:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG4105_2-1.jpg

Painted:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG4109-1.jpg

Final install shots:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG4155-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/CIMG4152-1.jpg

Here you can see the modified tank straps. If my car were near stock height or only slightly lower it would not be an issue. Adding a rear sway bar, coil overs, and a hell of a lot of drop it is no where near stock under there! Modifications were needed to be made to get everything to fit. I knew this from the beginning and went with a kit that would give me a good starting point. When you hot rod it you have to do some work. :)

I am really happy how this came out. Everything tucks up nice under the car and with the tank painted it disappears under the car.

[RicerwannaB]

I love this project man, I cant wait to start in on my 69

[LeighP]

Very nicely done....the tank is hiding everything for a real sleeper look.

[andrewb70]

Well done!

Andrew

[moparcolt]

whats the backspacing on your 18" wheels

[Scott LaPointe]

You are going to love what that watts link does for your handling. I helped a friend put a Fays2 in his car and it made a great improvement. Don't be afraid to move the center pivot bolt around to tune the handling. That's what it's there for!

[ponjohn]

Real nice project.

Is there a benefit running a sway bar + the watts link?

[SShep71]

Have you run into any clearance problems running that big of a tire in the rear?

[ponchopwr70]

Looks good! How do you like the watts link??

[Roadbuster]

Hey Everyone,
Been busy with my family so I haven't posted much.

With some miles and an event on the car, I can say the watts really does make a difference! It gives a very sold feel to the rear of the car. It is most noticeable when there is a bump in the turn, and instead of kicking out, it is now predicable, but i can throttle steer easily.

[jgpclone]

lookin good man

[Alain V.]

WOW! Your car is really looking good. I have an A body cutlass that will be getting pretty much the same suspension mods as you.

A question though.... with your lowered ride height, do you still have enough travel for you driveshaft without it hitting the body?
Is the angle OK???? I ask because I am considering using a ford 9inch rear to take advantage of the lower pinion snout......but I'd rather keep the use a GM rear if driveshaft clearance and angle is not an issue.
I'm planning to run a stroked 455 olds big block w/EFI and a 200R4(beefed up) trans.

Soooo nice to see you still have the Pontiac engine under the hood too. Yeah- the LS engines have alot of good points to them, but I think it takes away from the car's character when you do engine swaps.

[andrewb70]

WOW! Your car is really looking good. I have an A body cutlass that will be getting pretty much the same suspension mods as you.

A question though.... with your lowered ride height, do you still have enough travel for you driveshaft without it hitting the body?
Is the angle OK???? I ask because I am considering using a ford 9inch rear to take advantage of the lower pinion snout......but I'd rather keep the use a GM rear if driveshaft clearance and angle is not an issue.
I'm planning to run a stroked 455 olds big block w/EFI and a 200R4(beefed up) trans.

Soooo nice to see you still have the Pontiac engine under the hood too. Yeah- the LS engines have alot of good points to them, but I think it takes away from the car's character when you do engine swaps.

Usually with lowered A-bodies the issue is not with the driveshaft hitting the body. The problem is that as the cars are lowered the front and rear working angles become too great for smooth operation. So while the front and rear angle can be equalized with the use of adjustable upper rear control arms, the angle starts to get into the 4-6 degree range. Using a 9" will help some, but I don't believe it will fix the problem. I've solved the problem by having a driveshaft made that uses a Porsche 930 style CV at the front slip yoke and adjusting the rear working angle to be near zero. See my build thread for details and picture.

As for the LSx vs. old branded engines debate, there will never be a consensus because we all have individual tastes and preferences.

Andrew

[Roadbuster]

WOW! Your car is really looking good. I have an A body cutlass that will be getting pretty much the same suspension mods as you.

A question though.... with your lowered ride height, do you still have enough travel for you driveshaft without it hitting the body?
Is the angle OK???? I ask because I am considering using a ford 9inch rear to take advantage of the lower pinion snout......but I'd rather keep the use a GM rear if driveshaft clearance and angle is not an issue.
I'm planning to run a stroked 455 olds big block w/EFI and a 200R4(beefed up) trans.

Soooo nice to see you still have the Pontiac engine under the hood too. Yeah- the LS engines have alot of good points to them, but I think it takes away from the car's character when you do engine swaps.


Hey Alain,
The drive shaft does not hit the tunnel.
I have a BOP rear end in the car with the pinion down to give me the proper working angle. This is a little different than most set ups but it does work. If you look at it from the side, a line drawn through the pinion would intersect one drawn through the trans in the middle.
I have no vibration at highway speeds and did not notice any when on a short track at faster speeds. I have 3.23 gears and a TH400 trans, so no overdrive and my driveshaft has been rebuilt and balanced.

I will be looking at Andrew's very trick setup when I replace the trans with a T56 Magnum and a new set of rear gears. Those two changes will result in much higher driveshaft speeds and require a new driveshaft.

[Alain V.]

Andrew,
I just finished going through all 30 pages of your build, and found your driveshaft pics.

That is a good idea (using a CV). BMW has done this on some of their sedans for years,,,,but on the bimmer they have a fairly high failure rate. (the CV wears out on them causing terrible noise & vibration) I've seen them fail with 60k miles on them,,,and I'm pretty sure these folks don't do any drag racing with sticky tires.

I'm not saying that the CV is a bad idea to use,,,,,but I think it would probably be a good idea to put it on your list of things to periodically check when doing maintenance on your car.

I'm a mercedes tech by trade(the shop I work at specializes in german brands)

[andrewb70]

Andrew,
I just finished going through all 30 pages of your build, and found your driveshaft pics.

That is a good idea (using a CV). BMW has done this on some of their sedans for years,,,,but on the bimmer they have a fairly high failure rate. (the CV wears out on them causing terrible noise & vibration) I've seen them fail with 60k miles on them,,,and I'm pretty sure these folks don't do any drag racing with sticky tires.

I'm not saying that the CV is a bad idea to use,,,,,but I think it would probably be a good idea to put it on your list of things to periodically check when doing maintenance on your car.

I'm a mercedes tech by trade(the shop I work at specializes in german brands)

I am not expecting the CV to last forever. Even U-joints need to be replaced periodically. Honestly, if I can get 60,000 miles out of it, I would be thrilled. There is an Australian company called Holinger Engineering. They actually make a pinion yoke for the Ford 9" center section that takes a CV. It is entirely possible that at some point I may have a IRS in the GTO, at which time I am going to get a driveshaft that uses the CVs at both ends.

Andrew

[csouth]

Hey Jon, how much clearance do you have in the rear quarters with those 11" wide rears? I'm going 18x9" wide in the front, but was debating 10" or 11" width for the rear.

[Roadbuster]

Hey Jon, how much clearance do you have in the rear quarters with those 11" wide rears? I'm going 18x9" wide in the front, but was debating 10" or 11" width for the rear.

About 1/2" on each side of the tire.

[real57vetteguy]

Great build!
How do you like the SPC adjustible uppers?

[Roadbuster]

Great build!
How do you like the SPC adjustible uppers?

Great! When I had the car aligned my alignment guy spend a good 15 minutes just oogling over the suspension. It was a breeze for him to align it to SC&C's specifications. I just showed him the data sheets and how the upper arms work and he had no issues. BTW he does all the high performance alignments for the local Porsche club so he is used to modified specs.

[agto8u]

Greetings and Happy Holidays to All. FNG this is my first post.
Awesome Ride. Great Stance and tire wheel combo. Luv those seats, look like mucha mula? Keep up the great work and us updated with continued post as time permits.
You've done many of the things i'm planning on doing. I started with motor (400) and am working my way back.
T-56 w/hyd clutch coming as soon as i decide what direction to go with rearend, rebuild 3.55 non-posi BOP with Eaton posi and new axles etc.. or complete 12 bolt.

[cwmiller]

Great looking Goat Jon! Subscribed...

[455HOT/A]

AWESOME!!!!! car

[Slammd-Gto]

I saw a bright orange 68 gto with black wheels traveling north on 101 today, was that your car?

[Roadbuster]

I saw a bright orange 68 gto with black wheels traveling north on 101 today, was that your car?

Quick check in the garage, Whew! Nope not me and not my car. There must be a doppleganger running around! :)

[Slammd-Gto]

You know what I think it had the fixed headlights but damn it was a close match! Bright orange and black spoke wheels with polished lip, damn close but my heavy panting might have distorted the view ;)

[rohrt]

Love the build.

[93Polo]

Hey Everyone,
Been busy with my family so I haven't posted much.

With some miles and an event on the car, I can say the watts really does make a difference! It gives a very sold feel to the rear of the car. It is most noticeable when there is a bump in the turn, and instead of kicking out, it is now predicable, but i can throttle steer easily.

Awesome build, the Sparcos look great too.

Are you running poly on the axle side rear UCAs with the Watts?

[Roadbuster]

Awesome build, the Sparcos look great too.

Are you running poly on the axle side rear UCAs with the Watts?

Thanks!

Rubber on the upper mounts of the housing. It allows the compliance needed to make everything work.

[Roadbuster]

At RTTC2 I had a problem with the starter overheating. It kinda sucks that you have to push your car out of line 'cause it won't start when hot!

So before RTTC3 I needed to replace the starter with a new mini starter and I ordered one from RobbMc. Great service. Called him on a Thursday and discussed what I wanted placed my order and they shipped on Friday, I had the new starter by Tuesday.

It is a nice part. Allows you to rotate the solenoid without removing the starter. You just need to loosen two bolts. At 11 pounds, is also 10 lbs lighter than the stocker!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1372-1.jpg

From my experience at RTTC3, no more hot start issues!

[Roadbuster]

Here is one of those modifications that took a ton of work, but once installed nobody can see.

The passenger side header hangs down lower than the drivers side by about 1.5 inches. That is enough for me to catch it on one of those steel road construction plates. Ouch!
Time to fix it. It's cutting time!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1173-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1174-2.jpg


To get this to work, I really improved my welding and cussing ability. Every tube needed multiple cuts to get everything lined up again.
The shiny areas are where I had to cut and shorten all the tubes and tig weld them back together again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1364-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1367-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1368-2.jpg

Also, the headers have a gap between the flange and the gasket. Fixed that by building up the area around the bolt holes (on both headers) before filing everything flat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1373-1.jpg

Installed, I gained my clearance

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1371-1.jpg


Pontiacs have the filter on the passenger side. I thought I left enough clearance, but with everything tightened up it now too tight to get a stock filter in and out. Doh!

I had a new filter for my 2006 Yukon Denali, and thought it couldn't hurt to check. Hey! It fits perfectly! Threads and gasket match and the smaller filter gets in and out with no problems!

[93Polo]

Thanks!

Rubber on the upper mounts of the housing. It allows the compliance needed to make everything work.

Thanks I've read that the rubber was recommended. There aren't that many who have run a Watts on an A-body and most of the Fox body Mustang guys go Torque arm when they do a PHB or Watts.

Nice work on the headers too. I love my LS motors but it is cool to see a BOP motor in a Pro-touring car.

[LeighP]

Yep, LS filters work on Pontiac V8s. Friend runs them on his 428. You can also get the oil filter housing adapters that rotate the filter about 45 degrees backwards for more clearance if you need it - (1st gen F body with Long Branch RamAir manifolds).
Cool about that RobbMc starter..mine you have to dismount the starter to reclock the solenoid.

[CliffS]

nice job on the headers, did you get the bolts in ok?
great choice on the Milano's :)

[Roadbuster]

nice job on the headers, did you get the bolts in ok?
great choice on the Milano's :)

Header bolts went in ok. I just added material to the back side. The exhaust was loose so the alignment was easy.

[Roadbuster]

Hey Guys

I got a new Hellwig Adjustable Hollow front swaybar installed. Made a few runs with it and it fits nice with no rubbing at my ride height! This is brand new from Hellwig and I will make a post with more on it later.

I also have anew wiring and an A/C system to install but I have encountered a couple of setbacks.

About 2 weeks ago I took a fall and broke my right hand. The bone moved at the break so they had to set it. Now I have a cast from my fingertips to my elbow. Doc says to keep it elevated and don't lift anything. That basically means no car work and all projects are on hold for at least this month.

[MrQuick]

ahh that sucks. heal up, car can wait a few weeks.

[LeighP]

Hope you're feeling better soon.

[Code Red]

Sure you broke your hand from a fall. JK, hope you have a speedy recovery

[chevelletiger]

[QUOTE=Roadbuster;918976]Hey Guys

I got a new Hellwig Adjustable Hollow front swaybar installed. Made a few runs with it and it fits nice with no rubbing at my ride height! This is brand new from Hellwig and I will make a post with more on it later.


Pics jon! Mark was talking about that bar,i just got the 1 1/4 hollow bar with the extreme duty end links would like to see how much better this bar is going to be! Phil