69 Deck lid fitment problems

[redfire69]

OK, so I know the deal with the gaps on the repop quarters and deck lid, but does anyone know why the deck lid would be hitting the tail pan and quarters before being fully shut (with bump stops installed)??? Here's a pic without the bump stops. OER deck lid, goodmark tail pan, unknown repop quarters. The deck lid is coming in contact with the pass quarter side and tail pan. Everything seems square and measures the same, but I'm not sure of any relative positioning since I got the car w/the back-end chopped up.

thanks in advance - Ron

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[Jim Nilsen]

Do you have the trunk weatherstip in? If you don't have the w/s it could be flexing in the middle and hitting. Otherwise you need to find where it is hitting and do a little clearance reshaping with a hammer:box2:

Try putting the w/s in and when you can't get the lid to close all the way or at all you will realize the bump stops are just for lining it all up and not for stopping.

From the pic it looks like the rear panel is twisted clockwise. The gap is definately not equal all of the way unless it is just the pic.

[redfire69]

Thanks, I'll give the W/S a try as its not installed. I didn't realize the lid might flex that much. I'll reserve the hammer if all else fails!!!

[Fesler built]

The W/S should fix the problem but if it dosent we use a 2X4 all the time and carefully step on it to reshape to fit, you may have to do this a few times and take your time if you go to far its a pain to fix.

[2Bad4Ya]

FYI when or if you have to reshape the lid... take the time to spot weld along the inner lip. These things can/will come loose and shift around on you.

[redfire69]

Hey guys,

I forgot to mention that the car is still in mock up staging (quarters not welded etc) and the quarter panel weather strip gutters haven't been installed either. I figure these problems are easier to address before welding... LOL!

Also, someone pointed out to me that the weather strip gutter on the tailpan may need to be bent down and indeed it is off on the pass side. Not sure how far down to bend it. This could also be the issue on the bump stop pad of the pass quarter where I'm getting serious contact - what do you think? I've also replaced the frame rails and they measure the same distance from the floor.

The other thing is that I have the original deck lid and I'm going to try that as soon as I can. Hopefully that will also solve some of wide gap issues too.

Ron

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[Jim Nilsen]

When I got to the point you are at I got myself a rotary laser level for ceilings and leveled the car up at the rockers and the cowl area were in the same plane with the beam. Having the level at a height that is above the quarter panels. I was then able to measure down from the beam to anywhere on the quarters and the rear panel to make sure it was all equal. One side of the car was lower even though it didn't look like it. I put a ratcheting tie down from the ceiling to the quarter and pulled it up at the bumper bracket holes. When I had the quarters lined up in the same plane as the rest of the car the deck lid fit perfect. Did all of my work with the original decklid which fit perfect before the removal of everything else. I was also able to make the side body lines level to the doors and the begining of the quarter to the rear. I had to raise it which made the area you are having problems with go down like you want. Quarters have a way of getting a bit tweeked as they come out of the dies and will need to be persuaded to take the right shape.

It all looks good for a good fit. Take your time and you should be alright.

[redfire69]

So I still have to dial everything in, but I couldn't help but try the original deck lid last night... and it fits much better!! Imagine that.. :hand: So I'll have a decision down the line whether or not to put the work into this almost 40 year old beatup panel.

BTW the original deck lid measures almost 1/4 inch wider in some spots than the repop.

Ron

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