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View Full Version : Where to start, or can I do this in stages?



Rileys68Camaro
02-07-2005, 07:26 PM
I'm looking to upgrade my suspension, as I go. Right now, the cars not on the road, and as part of getting it ready, I'd like to start on upgrading the front suspension at least.


So what I want to know, is can I do it in stages? Can't drop 3K+ at once and would like to not have to wait that long.

Maybe start with QA1's or just tubular arms....


Or, I'm thinking of starting with the DSE stage 1 kit and going from there. Will this work? Or is there a better place to go for piecing it together?

Don't want to re-buy or duplicate major parts.

Also, I want to run the Touring Classics C5 brake kit, and 17x8 Smoothie II wheels with 245/45's up front and want to make sure it's all compatible.

David Pozzi
02-07-2005, 10:05 PM
Do you have stock discs or drums now?
Do you want tubular lowers? they don't really do a lot.

I would get tubular uppers from DSE, Global West, Speedtech. DSE is lots of money, Global west is a better value Speed Tech is the best bang for the buck.

I wouldn't get tubular lowers unless you will use coil over shocks, in that case, the extra beef in the shock mounts is a benefit, or if your arms are shot the tubulars are stronger, but there is no change to geometry.

I'd then upgrade in the following order:

1. Guldstrand mod plus tubular upper arms, If you will not autocross or open track or corner carve a lot, you don't have to do the Gmod.
2. solid subframe bushings
3. F/R springs and antiroll bar
4. shocks
5. wheels/tires
6. brakes

If you don't have power steering, any time would be good to install a fast ratio PS box with stiff effort and long pitman arm.

NOTES:
If you will install tubular lower arms, do them when you do the springs. If you want coil overs, do them the same time as you do the springs.
If you use stock lower arms, use Delrin bushings in them, Global West, DSE and Speed Tech have them.

If you want to save money, cut off your upper A arm mounts, trim them the same amount as the Guldstrand mod and re weld them back on but 3/4" to the rear for more caster. costs nothing if you have a welder. Use circle track upper and lower A arm bushings, you can get lowers from AFCO the "lightweight" ones that are plastic with fiberglass composite reinforced and greaseable. Upper bushings from the circle track vendors are greaseable steel but could be opened up for a delrin insert if you have a machinest friend. The upper A arm shaft must be the type with a nut not a bolt or it will unscrew itself when you use other than stock bushings.

DON'T USE POLLY BUSHINGS, execept for on the antiroll bar and end links.

Use Moog #6041 ft coils, trim to set ride height. Next option would be to use 5" OD X 9" tall circle track "stock appearing" coils with a Landrum type threaded adjuster on top cut the adjuster to fit the spring helix in the upper pocket. The most expensive choice is to use coilover shocks.

Get good rear springs, PT member Chicane67 has a spec for good rear springs.

Stu Seitz
02-08-2005, 11:31 PM
David, is running a GW UCA with the G mod ok? I'm am not shure but from what I have heard some people say is that it adds to much caster. If it in fact does not I would really like to know; thanks in advance.

68protouring454
02-09-2005, 05:43 AM
david, do you like to re-drill the crossshaft mouhnt?? or cut it off and move it back, or am i missing something and do both, re-drill and move complete mount back?
jake

baz67
02-09-2005, 06:41 AM
Stuart, The exact answer to your question will be known real soon. I should have the Guldstrand mount and GW arm measurements today. However, I do not think it would add too much caster. I know on DSE says it is not an issue, but that only holds true for thier UCA. If it is a concern, give Doug a call at GW and he would be able to answer your question.

Jake, You could do it both ways, as you suggested. Redrilling the holes will require some grinding of the "ears" above the old holes. That is needed because that part of the mount is now interferes with control arm droop. Also, when using GW uppers the cross shaft hits the metal that slopes from the inboard side of the mount to the frame. Stock and DSE cross shafts have a narrower design so they do not have this problem.

Even though it is more work, IMHO cutting off, modifing and rewelding the whole mount is a better way of doing it. By doing it that way you retain a stock look and do not have any of the previous mentioned issues. You would have to rethink the upper shock mount though. Check out John Ulaszeks site http://www.x1nova.com/Guldstrand.html. He did it that way. I believe David Pozzi did it that way as well. The big issues I see doing it this way is the redoing of the shock mount and making sure you reweld in the correct place. The upside is you get much better geometry and it still looks stock.

Brian