View Full Version : Cool Car LLC (from old board)

08-20-2004, 05:13 AM
Coolcar LLC Insulator
I finally have some new pictures of the Coolcar insulation installed in my Nova. It was easy to use and easy to clean up. You can spray it anywhere if you can get the gun to it.

Here are the link to my web page:

That link may not work due to me being logged in at home.

In the pictures everything that is black is the Coolcar insulation. It has a heavy texture to it. I had to tape off everything that is green.

When the interior is done, everything you see that is black will be covered in Navy Blue leather, including the floors. Everything in green primer will be painted in Yellow. It gives a good idea of what it will end up looking like.

Now if I could just get the front radiator support and fenders completed so I can start the body work.


d touring
Registered User
Posts: 538
(9/16/03 6:28 pm)
Reply Re: Coolcar LLC Insulator
Looks good Dennis!!

I would like to check that stuff out in person!! for one of the next projects!!

Man i cant wait to see yours an JPs car done they are killer!!
David 69 pro-tour camaro

Registered User
Posts: 1122
(9/16/03 6:51 pm)
Reply Re: Coolcar LLC Insulator

It looks absolutely stunning! Your dash, the rear spoiler, your speaker enclosures. Wonderful wonderful work! Your work always inspires me ...

You must have just put those pics up today, because I was hanging out at your site this afternoon.

How did you prep for the LLC? Etch primer, epoxy primer, LLC? What was the overall cost of the stuff? Does it mask just like paint? Were the fumes bad? (my wife doesn't appreciate fumes ....). How did your spray gun hold up? It was a custom one for the LLC stuff, right? Cleanup hard?

Gorgeous, just gorgeous!

John Parsons

Unregistered User
(9/16/03 9:21 pm)
Reply Coolcar LLC
Thanks for the compliments guys, I appreciate it.

A friend of mine takes care of my website. He was a coop engineer at my work and had his own website. He wanted to add my car to his page. My page ended up getting so much viewing traffic that he had to change service providers three times. He thanks everyone for that. He just posted those pictures today.

To prepare the metal, I painted everything with etching primer (the green primer on the dash, cage, and rear package tray). Bob from Coolcar suggested either the etching primer or an epoxy primer. It can be applied over painted parts. I scuffed up the primer with scotch bright pads to give it a little tooth.

Masking was simple and the same as you would do for painting. I masked off the outer 3 inches or so on the inside of my trunk lid to keep a smooth surface for the gaskets. I peeled the tape off without scoring with a knife and it still gave a nice crisp edge. If you do get some overspray on other parts, it sands off real easy.

The fumes are about the same as painting a room with latex house paint. It smells about the same. If you look at some of the pictures, there is some plastic hanging down from the ceiling of the garage. I have exposed roof joists and the garage is attached to the house. I covered the ceiling rafters with a sheet of plastic and then hung plastic curtains around the car. I opened the garage door about a foot to let the fumes out. I didn't get any complaints from my wife or here mother when I primered the car with etching primer, which is wicked, or the coolcar.

I purchased the spray gun from Coolcar. It uses a 1/2 inch siphon hose with a steel siphon tube that goes into the 2 gallon bucket of material. You make a "+" cut into the lid and slide the siphon tube in and start spraying. You do have to stir it up first with the paint stirrer that is provided with the spay gun kit if you buy it. The gun kit was $45. I would suggest making a screen or something to go over the end of the siphon tube. I did have a little bit of trouble with the gun clogging. When you open the bucket to stir it up, the material clumps up on the sides and in the bottom. If for some reason it has dried, it won't dissolve back into the mix. The gun will siphon the chunks up and clog the 3/16 nozzle. It really only happened to me after I let a bucket sit for about 2 weeks after I opened it. I put the lid back on but some of the top lair had cured.

Clean up is real easy. It cleans up with water. Put the siphon hose in a bucket of water and spray until it is clean. Then take the gun apart and clean it with water. The gun looks a lot like a cheap sand blasting gun. Don't spill the stuff on the garage floor. I got some on my garage floor and some on the side of the house, (wife really didn't like that) and it won't come off. I tried scraping it off with a putty knife and it isn't working. I'll have to sand it off and repaint the house.

The price of the stuff is $75 per gallon sold in 2 gallon buckets. I used 6 gallons to do everything you see in the pictures, floor, trunk, trunk lid, inside of quarters, inside of door skins, inner doors, firewall, under side of ear package tray, rear firewall, and roof. I think it is cheaper than what it would have cost to do just the floors in dynomat. This stuff only weighs 3.2 pound per gallon.

I need to stop typing now, my arms are cramping up.


Registered User
Posts: 694
(9/17/03 6:41 am)
Reply Cool Car.
Hey Dennis.

The car is looking great.
I am using the same product on my car. I just need to decide if I am going to use it inside and out or just inside like you have done.
I had planned on POR15 for the floor pan and I don't think it will hold up over the Cool Car since it remains slightly flexable and I think that will cause a problem for the POR.

Have you noticed a difference with the accoustics inside the car since you sprayed?

Keith Quinn.

Registered User
Posts: 1123
(9/17/03 6:54 am)
Reply Re: Coolcar LLC

Thanks very very much for that. You answered all my questions ... I'll be doing the same thing to II Much real soon.

I just finished up some of the final little welding jobs inside the car: weld the package tray to the rear cage struts, and weld the trunk hinge, roof brace, and rear quarter inner panels back to the inner fenderwells.

Then I have to do the rear seat mounts, 3 pt harness mounts, and the front seat 3 pt harness mounts before I can call all the body welding done. I'm kind of stopped right now ... I'm waiting on various tabs and clevises to arrive before I can finish that fabrication.


Unregistered User
(9/17/03 9:30 pm)
Reply Coolcar

I think it deadens the sound real well. The dash and rear deck use to resonate when you tapped them with something. Now it sounds like you are tapping a piece of wook. The front fenders are not coated yet and they have the high tinny sound when you tap them. The doors and quarters also sound more like a wood panel.

08-24-2004, 07:13 AM
is this stuff paintable. very interested in finding out more. do they have a website?

08-24-2004, 08:08 PM
You can paint the stuff on with a paint brush or a roller but it is recomended to spray it on. You can reach a lot more places spraying it on. I'm going to brush on the stuff to the back side of my sheetmetal center console.

High Performance Pontiac (http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/pon0405_sema/)

Hotrods & Custom Stuff Project carr getting a coat of Lizzard Skin (http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/RoadTour-24.html)

Check out the two links. They changed the name of the material to Lizzard Skin.

The Pontiac site just has a little info on it about the product but it does give you a phone number and price.

Just to give you and idea of how much you need, I used 5 gallons on my Nova. I spayed everything on the inside of the car this included:
Inner doors
door skins
inside of quarters
under the package tray
Both sides of the rear fire wall
front fire wall
trunk floor
inside of the front fenders
inside of head light buckets.

Good Luck

Dennis Linson

10-22-2004, 08:50 PM
Dennis does this stuff weight alot or is it light?