Finally a little progress [Archive]

gearheads78

05-04-2008, 07:19 PM

Little bit of progress this weekend. Still a few days before I get the cad/zinc plating and the powder coated stuff back. I worked of prepping some of the stuff I still have here.
455 won't be built for a while so the orginal 330 will go back in for now. The motor was pulled down to a bare long block and scaped, chisled, and wire brushed 42 years worth of grease and grime. Also resealed everything back up with new gaskets. Little bit more cleaning and motor will be ready for a fresh coat of Oldsmobile gold.
The rest of the time was spent cleaning, sand blasting and painting lots of misc parts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

05-05-2008, 05:59 PM

Two phone calls today. One was from the machine shop the other from the plater.
Since I am using LS1 F-body rear brakes on a stock 72 rear there is nothing to hold in the factory bolt in axles tight. I had these spacers made to take care of that. I also had them cut down the front hubs to clear the C6 Corvette front rotors. the last thing I had them do was cut the stud holes to .503 to get the correct interference fit with my aftermarket ARP metric studs. I cut them down to 2.200 so they will still be long but stay under the closed end lug nuts.
The plating I am extreemly happy with. I had old greasy rusty original parts and new gold cad after market parts parts. I did not like the look of either. Anything that did not go to the powder coater went to the plater. After this I don't think I will ever clean a rusty bolt again. Below is just some of the stuff.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

NvrDun71

05-05-2008, 06:24 PM

What are the two types of platings you used and where did you have it done? Everything looks like it turned out great

gearheads78

05-05-2008, 07:07 PM

What are the two types of platings you used and where did you have it done? Everything looks like it turned out great

Black zinc and clear cad. It was done at a small local industrial plater. I took 5 boxes of parts and it was less than $300.00 total. I want everything to look like it could have come have came from the factory but much more detailed than the factory would ever do.

gearheads78

05-06-2008, 07:30 PM

I got some high heat primer and Fusicks gold on the motor tonight. I should have waited till a daytime I could do it. The bugs and trash were getting in it like crazy. The intake and block still look great because the rough cast iron hides the imperfections. The pan and valve cover don't look to good up close. I will probably redo the valve covers since they are so visible.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

05-14-2008, 04:35 PM

Well its over a week later than quoted but I finally got my pieces back from the coater tonight. Do these things come with instructions ? :D
23 days left. Oh Shhhhh**
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

05-15-2008, 08:56 PM

I was off today and worked in the shop most of the day. Lots of minor progress. A few steps forward and a step back :oops:
I started getting things ready for the manual conversion with the TKO600.
My first thisng to do was see if and how much I needed to drill the crank for input shaft clearance. In process of measuring I noticticed the pilot bearing I got was out of spec. I called Supercars and they are rushing another out.
I did need to bore the crank. I went to a local industrial machine tool surplus store and picked up a couple bits to drill the hard crank material. One was a 1/4" and the other .798 to give me plenty of clearance from the input shaft. I love that place $10.00 for both bits.
I knew it would never be perfect with a hand drill but I wanted to get as close as I could. To do this I set the motor on wood blocks and shimmed it up until it was level at the pan rails. I the drilled at a slow speed and used the bubble on the drill to keep it level up and down. I eyeballed the side to side by having a long bolt to the crank to reference to. About a full hour of drilling I'm sure glad that is over.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Since I got powdercoating back. I also got my scatter shield from them. Luckily I had read the it would need clearanced for the lower pushrod. They had already blasted but I called before it was coated. I mocked it up and trimmed it off with a plasma cutter.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
The next thing I did was check the runout of the bellhousing. Its just a hair out of recommended specs but better safe than sorry I ordered some .007 off set dowel to correct it.
I tried to remove the dowels with vise grips and a little heat but all they would do is spin. I decided to make a makeshift puller by tacking a 1/2" nut on the dowels. I then took a 1/2" bolt and another nut and pull them right out by pressing against the back side of a larger socket. They came right out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The last thing of the night was work on the front lower control arms. Iv'e done bushings and ball joints a few times but never with nice new finshed pieces. The ball joints worked out pretty good. I used duct tape and pieces of broken up paint sticks to push against. It worked out great with no damage to the finish.
I then went to the bushings and things didn't go quite as well. My first idea was to just put both bushings in and press against each other till they seat. WRONG!!! The arm started bending and when I released pressure it did not defect all the way back. Now I have to figure out a way to bend it back without damaging the finish. I've got an idea I will try Sunday when I am off again.
The next arm I did a different way and it worked great. I got a piece of 1/2" all thread to pull against. I then cut a piece of pipe to just smaller than the inside width cut it in half and wraped with tape. I then cut a piece of 3/8" plate in a circle and drilled a hole in the middle. I welded that to a 2" iron pipe coupler and wrapped with tape. Then slid the halves to keep the end of the arm from pushing together. Finally bolted it all together untill the shells were seated. Once I made the tool all 4 bushing were took less than 10 min total.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

NvrDun71

05-15-2008, 09:33 PM

Lookin good :twothumbs

gearheads78

05-16-2008, 06:21 PM

Lookin good :twothumbs

Thanks. No progress today but the parts pile got bigger:jump:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Posi12Bolt

05-18-2008, 12:08 AM

man your kickin ass! keep it up its lookin great!

oh and this pic reminded me that MY CARS BEEN ON THAT LIFT BEFORE!! haha

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23176&d=1208060965
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/powerglide010-1.jpg

gearheads78

05-18-2008, 06:19 AM

man your kickin ass! keep it up its lookin great!

oh and this pic reminded me that MY CARS BEEN ON THAT LIFT BEFORE!! haha

:hammer: Don't know what you are talking about. Your in CA How could your car be on my lift. :dunno:

Isn't it funny show small the world is with the internet. I am happy to say as of 6 months ago I no longer own any 4gen F-bodies. I think my love / hate relationship is over. I loved the cars but I hated working on them.

gearheads78

05-18-2008, 09:06 PM

I had to work Satuday but I was off today and got some stuff done.
The first order of business was to see if I could fix the front control arm that I bent in the press last week. My idea worked using a long piece of all thread. The nuts were able to bend it back in to place. It was a relief not to have to find another control arm.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I was able to pick up my rear end housing on Friday night. I friend set up the new Eaton posi and a set of used GM 3.73's out of a late model Chevy truck. I made another press tool to get the upper bushings in. The LH side is so close that I had to hack off a large part of the circle to get it to clear.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
When you order SPC arms with screw in upper ball joints there come already assembled. I did not want the gold cad finish so I had them sent apart so I could get them plated silver. I found a socket but it only came in 3/4 drive so I asked the techs at my office if anyone had a rachet I could borrow. Well I got one. I am calling this the "GODZILLA" wrench. :shock:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
It would be too much to ask for things to just bolt together. The upper Currie Trac arm would not get close to fitting on the LH side. I had to ruin thier nice powder coating and notch a bunch of material off the inside edge. Few coats of Semigloss spray paint and it was back in business.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
For the most part the rest of eveything went smooth. Got the new 3/8 fuel line to upgrade from the original 5/16 line so it will be ready for the future 455. All the rear suspension and part of the front suspension is now together. Also got the motor frame pads but on. Its starting to look like it might be a car again. :D
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

oorange67

05-19-2008, 12:18 AM

Looking Good... Hope to see you on the Power Tour I am going from Missouri to Nebraska.

1971 Cougar Xr7 Convertible 5.0 AOD

Boesch

05-19-2008, 06:50 AM

You're right...it is starting to look like a car again. Time's ticking...keep working!

gearheads78

05-19-2008, 09:48 AM

Looking Good... Hope to see you on the Power Tour I am going from Missouri to Nebraska.

1971 Cougar Xr7 Convertible 5.0 AOD

I hope to see me on PT too. The extra week waiting on powder coating is really putting a strain on my schedule.:help:

gearheads78

05-19-2008, 09:52 AM

You're right...it is starting to look like a car again. Time's ticking...keep working!

Tell me about it. The wheels look great. I will post some good daylight pictures once I get them painted and mounted up. Thanks again for the deal.

Code Red

05-19-2008, 03:55 PM

looking good

chevelle19700

05-19-2008, 08:40 PM

keep it coming

Boesch

05-24-2008, 08:06 PM

I hope you're getting a lot done this weekend!

gearheads78

05-25-2008, 06:33 AM

I hope you're getting a lot done this weekend!

Well guys it does not look like its going to happen. I am over the budget I gave myself and still short about $500.00 for some mis stuff I need to finish. I was fortunate enough to get myself out of dept last year and I refuse to go back in. In addition the powder coating taking an extra 8 days just threw off my already very tight schedule. I could just slam it together and still make it but I have come this far already I just don't want to cut any corners. My wife has been very understanding but my 2yo daughter is having I hard time with me comming straight home eating and going out to the garage every night for the last month so I need to spend some time with her.
I already have the time off for PT and some money set aside for the trip so I am going to supprise them both and spend a few days down in South TX at the beach.
On to project update........
When I went to assemble my rear E-brake assemblies I noticed I was missing two little pins. My guess is they fell through the screen when I had the harware cleaned up and zinc plated. The only way to get that pin is a 100.00 kit from GM.
I dicided to make them and it turned out pretty good. I borrowed one out of a friends Camaro to copy. I used 1/4" grade 8 bolts to make two new ones. I chucked the bolt up in a drill and ground off the head will a bench grinder while the drill was spinning to keep it uniform. I used a file while the drill was spinning to sneak up on the size. Then 180 sand paper and finally 400 emery cloth to polish the tips. My finished pieces are with in
.004 of the of what the factory ones are long. Few hours work was a whole lot better than $100.00 to get new ones.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
After greasing up the front bearings and installing the hubs I slipped on the C6 rotors. I one side I could see a bad wobble. I put a dial indicator on it and it was .035 tolerence on the runout. I took that rotor to work to check it on a brake lathe and it was fine. Now I was thinking I had a bent hub so I but the indicator on it. Luckiy the problem was a high spot on the face of the hub. I few minutes with a hand file and it was level with the rest of the hub. Now the runout is only .004 on that side. Much better.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Only other thing I have done is finish the front suspension and steering. I ordered the wrong drag link. I did not know there were two different sizes. I ordered a 7/8 and need a 13/16. I thought to save time and $$ I cleaned up the original and installed it but it has a little play in one of the joints so its going to come back off. Now I need to oder a 13/16 link or find a pitman and idler for the 7/8 one.
The last thing I did Saturday was test fit a wheel to get an idea where to run the hard lines so the still clear the 9" wheels up front. I sure do like that last picture.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Boesch

05-25-2008, 11:54 AM

Better to do it right than rush it and have to redo it later.

gearheads78

05-25-2008, 07:32 PM

Better to do it right than rush it and have to redo it later.

Thats what I am telling myself to keep from getting bummed.

Today was a bust. As far as the project. I spent the morning with my daughter and went outside mid day. I planned on building brake lines. After making one of the rear axle lines I went to flare the end. Just as the tool started to seat I heard a pop. The insert for the double flare broke :x
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Only other thing I did was spend a few hours on the front calipers. I filed, sanded and smoothed all the machine marks and casting texture and flash. I can't wait to get these painted. They are one of my favorite things about the whole build.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Apogee

05-28-2008, 05:12 AM

gearheads78

05-28-2008, 08:45 AM

Looking very sharp. That's some tough luck with the flaring tool...I'd sleep with my Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool if I could, but I think the girlfriend might get jealous. Nice touch on the calipers.

Tobin
KORE3

Thanks man. Wheels being painted today. I should have pics of the final look of the tire/wheel combo by the weekend. I'm stoked to see them together.

gearheads78

05-30-2008, 06:07 PM

Waiting on a new hydraulic flare tool to do my brake lines. I did get the wheels painted and mounted the tires today. I can't wait to see the body down over these. :naughty:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Boesch

05-30-2008, 06:30 PM

Those turned out really nice!!

gearheads78

06-01-2008, 06:25 AM

Those turned out really nice!!

Thanks...when you start offering as an option I want monthly royalty checks. :here!: :thankyou:

gearheads78

06-01-2008, 08:51 PM

Not too much to report today. I had to work most of the weekend but I did get in the garage a few hours tonight.
About a week ago I discovered I have a small problem as I was fitting up the rear brakes. The rotor was not centered in the caliper basket. After a little research on line I saw the other people are running washers or buying a spacer to bring out the backplate. Someone makes one intended for Camaros and Chevelles but it is 3/16" thick. I spaced mine out 3/16 with washers and it was too far. I get it very close to center on my Olds rear with .125" so I decided to make some spacers.
Now that I will bring the backplate out it creates another problem. I had thick spacers made at a machine shop to go between the factory bearing retainer and the axle seal and bearing. Now the spacer will be .125 too short. I'm not going to pay to have them made again so I made spacers for my spacers. Since I already have to cut a hole in the other spacers cut a second hole in the center first and then cut the outer ring. By doing it this way I am basicly making my bearing spacer when I cut the center out of the backplate spacer.
Here is the 1/8" plate marked up before cutting.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is the new bearing retainer spacers next to the machined spacer. It's hard to hold the plasma torch steady going arong the circle but they are close enough that a little time on the bench grinder they will be ready to use.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
This is me cheating to make a nice straight cut with the plasma. Just clamped a piece of steal spaced away from my line so the torch cuts right on the line.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is the rough finished backplate spacer. Little bit of time with a file and it will be ready for a quick coat of paint.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

jb442

06-20-2008, 10:42 PM

Only other thing I did was spend a few hours on the front calipers. I filed, sanded and smoothed all the machine marks and casting texture and flash. I can't wait to get these painted. They are one of my favorite things about the whole build.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Man those calipers are sweet! The rest of the car ain't bad either! Hehe... :) It's always nice to see a pro-touring Oldsmobile! Look forward to seein' some pics of it going down the road, and maybe a smokey burnout or two!

Motown 454

06-21-2008, 10:45 AM

You do nice work it looks great. Excelent idea on the calipers.
Wayne

gearheads78

06-21-2008, 08:58 PM

Thanks for the compliments

I finally got a little done on the car today. After vacation I hurt my back and did not do anything done since. It still a little sore so I was going slow and taking it easy.
I the task I needed to accomplish is to build brake lines from scratch. i am switching to 3/16" front to rear line to match what was on the car the the brakes came off of. Pre-made lines only come in 1/4" so I just ordered 20' of stainless 3/16. I think it all came out good. I used the factory retainers and added a few of my own. The are Krugel line clamps I picked up at a local street rod shop.
I was origially going to run a 67 dual res. distribution block with a Wilwood proportioning valve. I changes plans when I found that Summit sells a block with a build in valve. I did not want to mount it showing in the engine compartment so I mounted it under the car. I made a bracket thar bolted to the original gear selector bracket holes in the frame.
Made a template out of cardboard to get an idea of what I wanted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I then cut it out of 1/8" plate with a plasma cutter
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
After drilling, grinding, shaping with a torch in the vise this is the finished piece ready for paint
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Finished in semi-gloss black and installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here are the rest of the brake lines installed from the block back. I will try to do the fronts Sunday
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

07-06-2008, 06:56 PM

Things for been going slow the last few weeks. My boss has been on vacation so I have been working extra to keep up with his duties and mine. Last weekend I selected to completly clean up and rearrange the garage instead of working on the car. It was something I should have done before I started but I was in such a hurry to get going I didn't. Its now laid out much better to tackle a big project like this.
Today I finally got a little work done. I am a little gun shy on my back still so I have been working slow and paying much more attention to how I move and bend.
I did lots of odds and ends that are not worthy of pictures. I did manage to build the front brake lines and get the motor/trans mocked up in the chassis to measure for the driveshaft. I still have to get the calipers powder coated and have the driveshaft built. Once thats done the rolling chassis can be finished up.
The boss did stop in and check on progress. Number one question from her has been "Daddy when are you going to finish the 'vertible" She is ready to start riding again.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
When I built the rear brake lines my cheapie parts store bender got the job done. The the front I needed some sharper bends and much closer together than my bender is capable of. I scrounged up some 3/4" all thread and nuts to make up a quicky home made bender. It worked great.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is the finished front lines. I will wait for the body to be back on the chassis before building the feed lines.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
One thing I was not sure about has how the rear crossmember was going to work out. After mocking it up with the tranmission it place I found out its going to be a cake walk. I will be able to use one exhisting hole and drill one new hole in the frame braket on each side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Even thought it was only temporary to measure for a driveshaft it sure was nice to see a motor sitting in place.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Young Gun

07-06-2008, 07:07 PM

looks solid...keep at it!

PRO 48 Fleetline

07-06-2008, 07:37 PM

wow great hotrod you have there congrats

Motown 454

07-06-2008, 08:33 PM

Nice work keep us updated your doing great.
Wayne

gearheads78

07-20-2008, 07:42 PM

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the props. Its nothing compared to a lot of guys cars on here but I am doing the best I can that still fits in my budget.

Its hard to find a place to stop LOL

I was originally going to just do a quick wash and rattle can the firewall. Since I no longer have a target date I took it a little farther. The rest of the engine compartment will look so clean and detailed so I have to make this pretty too.
Used a heat gun and a wood paint stick to get the old undercoating and black body sealer off. The paint stick works good and does not gouge the metal. I left all the original white seam sealer.
I used a DA with 120 everywhere I could and finished by hand in all the nooks and crannies. I then shot it with 2K direct to metal primer. I have some Eastwood chassis black but its laquer and I was afraid if might attack the primer. I will try to find some paint this week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

jackfrost

07-21-2008, 09:51 AM

I was originally going to just do a quick wash and rattle can the firewall. Since I no longer have a target date I took it a little farther.

that's *exactly* what happened to me... :twothumbs

i decided to do it right instead of twice. :smoke:

Code Red

07-21-2008, 12:45 PM

that's *exactly* what happened to me... :twothumbs

i decided to do it right instead of twice. :smoke:

yeah it happens

I've been tryign to convince a buddy who can do some welding to come weld up my fire wall holes for me lol

gearheads78

07-23-2008, 08:30 PM

yeah it happens

I've been tryign to convince a buddy who can do some welding to come weld up my fire wall holes for me lol

go for it...you are already this far :D

This week after work I have been getting some little parts painted. Rattle canned I few things but did not com out as nice as I wanted so I am using real paint from a gun.

First sand blasting all the old paint and surface rust. I then been hitting with 120 DA to smooth out the basted parts but still leave some bite for the primer. I robbed a floor shift column out of a 66 Lemans. It was really nasty field car piece. Its looking better than new.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Next was a couple coats of 2K urethan primer followed by 400 paper to be ready for final paint

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Here are a couple of finished pieces. I am very happy with my results for never painting anything with a gun before. I've used it to shoot some primer but thats all. This is good practice before I paint the firewall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Boesch

07-23-2008, 08:33 PM

I think you'll be very pleased with the results of all your extra effort when your done. Keep up the good work.

gearheads78

07-27-2008, 07:25 PM

I think you'll be very pleased with the results of all your extra effort when your done. Keep up the good work.

Thanks... One day I will have some goods pics for you of the wheels on the car :hammer:

Painted some more parts this afternoon. These turned out even better than the first batch. With all the odd shapes I have painted I think painting a big panel will be a piece of cake.

steering column top pieces
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

power steering tank
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

heater box
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

08-16-2008, 02:49 PM

Not much of an update as far as progress but did overcome a big hurtle today. I sold the wifes Tahoe so several small parts to buy and, plating and last little bit of powder coating can be done. I mentioned before I got myself out of debt last year. Its been so tempting to just order the stuff I need and pay for it later but I have just been patiently waiting.
I did decide to paint the gas tank since you will be able to see it from the back of the car. Since this was a Northern car it had a ton of undercoating. The normal method of heating up the coating to get off was not the best idea on a gas tank. I tryed several methods but in the end a razor blade on a windshield scaper was the fastest method.
It still took the better part of and afternoon to get it cleaned off. The blade left gouges in the metal So I primed with a heavy fill, blocked with 180 reprimed and wet sanding with 600.
I just finished painting it with dark gray metalic (same as wheel background) and semigloss clear. I think it turned out great. I will have the factory straps plated silver for a nice contrast and detail.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

NvrDun71

08-16-2008, 03:48 PM

Tank looks great

Kenova

08-16-2008, 04:37 PM

If you think the tank looks good now, wait until you get the car back together. I have found that doing the tank up as you have really ads some visual pop to the back of the car.

Ken

ledfoot

08-16-2008, 07:13 PM

Great job, keep it up. Love the stance!

gearheads78

08-16-2008, 07:58 PM

Thanks guys. I hope to be posting some real progress pics soon.

gearheads78

08-17-2008, 11:27 AM

Letting the paint dry

Thought I would come in a soak up some A/C. My finger tips are sore from sanding all the hard to get at pieces of the firewall.

I found the color of paint I wanted by stopping off at a local street rod builder Sasche Rod Shop. The painter there was nice enough to walk me through the shop to see if I could point out the sheen I was after. I pointed out something and he gave me the PPG sheet of exactly how he mixed it. I really like it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

08-21-2008, 08:00 PM

Looking for opinons or suggestions
The few std transmission throttle linkages I have been able to find are way out of my price range. I had an idea to just trim down the pot metal piece getting rid of the electrical part and refinishing to look like it was never altered. After disecting it I just could not figure out a way to trim it down and still keep its structual integrity and the needed stops that are built in to the piece.
I then had the idea to just reverse engineer the piece and just make it from scratch. I whipped it up out of wood to get an idea of how it will look. What do you guys think? Leave it as is, change it a little or start over? The is the side the upper part of the linkage will be attached to and pivot on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

08-31-2008, 10:11 PM

I took the last week off on the car. I can aross a deal on a 01 Z28 with a blown motor. Worked on cleaning up and detailing it. Sold in 6 days and made a few bucks I can put back in the Olds.
Finally got a little work done tonight. Mostly odds and ends cleaning parts for future install.
I had a couple tries to get something I like and I and now happy with how the throtte piece is comming out. Still need to smooth it out and get it ready for refinish but you can get the idea of how it will look. The pot metal piece is what will be replaced.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/img]

Motown 454

09-01-2008, 09:56 AM

Looks like just the right amount of gloss Looks good.

LT4POWR

09-01-2008, 01:46 PM

love the brakes!

gearheads78

09-01-2008, 07:59 PM

Looks like just the right amount of gloss Looks good.
Thanks I really like how the color came out

gearheads78

09-01-2008, 08:05 PM

love the brakes!

Thanks i just got them back for the powder coater this past week. Then i feel like straining my eyes for any hours I will take and x-acto knife and cut out all the tape that at the bottom of each letter. I will post pics.

Hind site being 20/20 I think if I was to do it again I would take the calipers to the coater first than then let the machine shop cut the powder and the metal. It would save a ton of time masking and unmasking.

gearheads78

09-04-2008, 07:51 PM

Today I dropped the last of the stuff I need plated off to the industrial plater I used before. I picked up my calipers a few days ago from the coater.

Boys and girls don't try this at home. I now have so much time in these front calipers its not even funny. About 2 hours sanding and shaping. About 4-5 hours with an xatco knife cuting the high heat tape for the coater and another 6-7 hours with the smallest dremel bit I have ever seen (apox 1/16") and xacto knife trimming the coating out of the letters and getting the masking tape out. My vision is finally a reality and I don't have to worry about seeing 50 cars with the same aftermarket brakes.

Drum roll please...So what do you think?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Motown 454

09-04-2008, 08:56 PM

Did you paint the bare metal for rust prevension? Sweet I dea do you mind if I borrow it? They look great.

gearheads78

09-05-2008, 07:49 AM

Did you paint the bare metal for rust prevension? Sweet I dea do you mind if I borrow it? They look great.

Thank you. No coating since it is aluminum. If I have problems with it starting to look bad I may try to clear the letters.

Borrow away. I get ideas all the time from things I see on other peoples cars.

gearheads78

09-07-2008, 06:31 PM

Real progress today

Got the pistons back in the calipers and got them all ready to install. I need to pick up some pads this week.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I got the belhousing mocked up one more time with the .007 offset dowels. Its now right under the specs recomended by the manufacture. They say .005 and I am at .004
Don't buy the Lakewood brand offset dowels. Mine were bigger than the hole by about .003
Went and got Moroso ones and they were right on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Installed the adapter pilot bearing to use in an auto crank. I have read mixed revues about these. Hopefully it will last 6-8 months until the 455 is built.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Using a Centerforce DF clutch set and a McLeod ajustable pivot ball.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Finally out of the box and bolted to its new home.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Clutch fork needs to be 5-7 degrees toward the front. The angle was achieved using th adjustable ball. Notice how far the stud from the ball sticks out. Once marked it was pulled back apart to cut the excess off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

MMMMMMMM....... 5-speed finally in place
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Now we are cookn'
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Motown 454

09-07-2008, 07:18 PM

Sweet looking ! Nice work.

gearheads78

09-08-2008, 07:27 PM

Sweet looking ! Nice work.
Thank you again

Refurbished and redesigned throttle linkage done tonight. Another part with way too much time in.
before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

after
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

09-09-2008, 06:01 PM

Brakes are on and now the rolling chassis is basicly complete. A few things to deal with in the body and then its time to finally start putting it all back together. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

09-14-2008, 05:26 PM

Got a little done this afternoon. Curiosity has been killing me as to how this original paint will turn out if I spend a little time on it. Well I did a little test spot and it going to come out a lot better than I thought it might.
This is a quick before and after of how it will look.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The main thing I wanted to do today was fix the RH rear body mount. I parted out the most rusty 67 442 convertible I have ever seen a few months before starting this build. Not one body bolt did not come right out in that car but my rust free 66 had the RH rear bolt spin on me. I cut it off with a sawsall
the day I took the body off.
After thinking about it I decided to go through the bottom to keep from disturbing the perfect original paint in the trunk. I cut the piece out with a 1/16" wheel which was the smallest I could find. It still made the gap a lot larger than I wanted but it worked out in the end. I had to fill the big gap and I suck at welding upside down so the repair is not very pretty but it will work.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

After cutting out the pieces I blasted it off and put it in a vise to compress the cage back together so the square nut would not spin. I welded a nut to the piece of bolt and was able to get it right out while still hot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

To help keep the same thing from happening again I decided to brace the cage a little by welding a coulpe pieces if 1/8" scrap.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I wanted to get it welded back in as flush as possible. So I used weld studs to give myself a handle to push or pull.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Other than dressing the welds here it is finished up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

wmhjr

09-18-2008, 07:02 AM

gearheads78

09-18-2008, 08:23 AM

Keep up the pics. It's funny - I'm working on a '66 GTO/Lemans Restomod right now and am doing some of the same stuff. I went with the SPC adjustable front UCAs and the SPC ProSeries coils all around. Currie Currectrac billet adjustable upper rears and the Currie Billet lower rears. Yours look different, so I'm guessing you got them prior to Currie releasing the newer version. I'm anxious to see how you like your suspension as you just might get done before I do. Mine won't be ready to drive until around June probably.

BTW, don't know if you knew this but you can buy new cage nuts complete.

Very cool. I don't know if you saw it or not but when you posted in the 30K thread about your car I said it sounds like you are building my Pontiac twin. (I was really looking for a 64-67 Pontiac when I bought the Olds) You and I must have very similar taste and ideas. :cool:

Thanks for the tip on the cages I knew they are made but sisnce this one was not rusty I desided to to wait for a replacement.

wmhjr

09-18-2008, 01:43 PM

Very cool. I don't know if you saw it or not but when you posted in the 30K thread about your car I said it sounds like you are building my Pontiac twin. (I was really looking for a 64-67 Pontiac when I bought the Olds) You and I must have very similar taste and ideas. :cool:

Thanks for the tip on the cages I knew they are made but sisnce this one was not rusty I desided to to wait for a replacement.

Yeah, very similar. You're going a little further with the brakes and wheels. I'm sticking with 11" Ford Drum brakes in the back - discs in the front. However, I might need to go to a Hydrotech booster in the front due to valve cover clearance - don't know yet. Engine will be stroked, forged crank 4 bolt hydro roller approaching 600hp and probably a bit better than 600tq. I'm using stainless for as much of the hw as I can.

Working with Mark at SC&C for the suspension stuff has been pretty cool, huh? Oh, I also got the wrong center link. Got it right the 2nd time around.

gearheads78

09-21-2008, 07:57 PM

And she inches closer

A little was done today got the dash, 4 speed pedals, and heater box together on the inside and the firewall mostly together on the outside. Also got the gas tank back in place. I then finished assembing the floor shift column I am converting to. Working with all the new painted areas today was pretty nerve racking. Not near a forgiving as the powder coating. Made a nick here and there but not anything anyone will even notice.

The last thing I was working on tonight was driveline angles. Ended up having to raise the back of the transmission 1/2" to get a 2.25* front and 2.5* rear working angle. Thanks go out to Andrew with the GTO for posting this link and talking about this in his build. It helped me figure it out quicky.

http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Diagnosis/Propshaft/Propshaft_Angles.htm

I wanted to make sure that was done before I get the body back on. The last thing I need to raise the floor to clear the trans and then not have enough clearance to get the driveline right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

09-27-2008, 08:41 PM

Don't know if it was the scatter shield or the aftermarket shift arm or combo of both but there was not near enough clearance for the shift fork to move back. Had to spend a few minutes with a die grinder.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I opened the new body mounts for the first time today. One mount on each side would not fit. The hole in the frame was a lot smaller on that one mount. I don't know if if it was a misboxed product but I did not want to wait a week to get the right part. My first thought was to trim the frame out to match the other holes but I did not want to cut the powder coating. I then decided to cut the rubber down. I think I cam up with a pretty cleaver way to do it after brain storming a little while.

I first measured the size of the old original bushing. I then found a 3/8 fender washer that was close to the size but still apox .075 big. I took a long 3/8 bolt and nut and tightened it all together. I then chucked it up in the drill press. With a file I cut the washer down to the exact size I wanted to cut the rubber to. Now I had a perfect guide. I took the long 3/8 bolt with my new resized washer and another washer on the back side. I centered the guide washer on the rubber bushing and tighened it snug enough to hold. Chucked up in the drill and carefully used a razor blade to trim the rubber pefectly to the size of the washer. Hear is a cut one next to an uncut.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I wanted to be really close when setting down the body. So I used two plumb bobs. One front and one in the oppisite rear corner. I little scooting around on the jack and the frame was exactly where I wanted it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

My plan was to always try to use this factory console I picked up off EBAY last year. I used a hole saw to get the shifter stub though the floor. I then drew and outline of where the console would sit. Well long story short I will not be using the console. Once the minimal cutting was done to clean the transmission I was well outside my outline for the console. I could still make it work but it would require a good bit of modification to the console. I paid way to much for this thing to risk messing it up. Its probably for the best. My daughter likes to walk between the seats from the back to get out of the car. When she stepped on it and broke it I might has had to kill her :lol: I just going to put it up for sale so someone with a original car can use it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Here is the bare minimum cutting it took to clear the Tremec TKO600. If you do not have your transmisson shimmed up 1/2" in back like mine you you may not have to cut as much. I plan on cleaning up the cuts and start covering it up Sunday
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Don't think I need any expanation here
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

-Richard

Motown 454

09-28-2008, 11:06 AM

Too bad about not being able to use the console. It still must feel good having the body back on the frame. Looking good !

gearheads78

10-05-2008, 05:30 PM

Got a little done today. Once I finish the floor its time to put it all together to drive.
Cleaned up next to the hole with scotch brite disc
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Used a hammer and dolly to bend the flange arond the hole.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Made it out of poster board first.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Don't be jelous of my high dollar metal forming equipment.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

First piece in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Starting to take shape. Still need to make the back piece and finish welding it all up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

rockytopper

10-06-2008, 01:45 PM

gearheads78

10-06-2008, 02:32 PM

Real nice ride you're building, What wheels are those? I love them. I saw this project over at ROP and wanted to comment but for some reason I can't get registered. Maybe because I put a LS1 in a 1965 cutlass. The purest are mad I guess. When you get done bring it out to the country, we'll line them up. I just gotta know if I should regret selling that 455 and going ls1 instead.

thanks man.....As for ROP is a pain in the ass to get registered anyway but you might me right. They black balled you for the LS swap :bicycle: .

The wheels are Intro V-rods but the paint detail is my work. They come all polished.

I dought you will regret going with an LS motor. They make stupid power for effort spent. I built a very mild combo in a 98 TA and had it running 7.1's . It was so easy making that car quick it was almost like cheating. My next project will be LS powered. Probably a 3rd gen F-body street / stip car with a bottle fed 408. Bottom 6's and still street worthy sounds good.

gearheads78

10-25-2008, 10:01 PM

Its been a little while since I worked on it. I've had 30 min here and there but today I spent most of the day. Finshed welding up the tunnel, dressed the welds, cut the hole, smoothed a little mud on the seams, and sprayed it in bare metal epoxy.
Now I just need to spray it in black and the tunnel is done. Next up buff and clean of the body and its ready to back on bolt on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Motown 454

10-26-2008, 02:34 AM

Sweet, keep pluging at it !

barno68

10-26-2008, 05:00 AM

Great job on the hump, and the frame looks really good. Get the interior back in and do some driving!

Lorretta

10-26-2008, 09:00 AM

gearheads78

10-26-2008, 10:40 AM

This is an awesome thread! Very informative. I am working on a 1966 Lemans and I'm currently doing the LS1 rear brake swap. I came to the same conclusion for spacing out the backing plate, and having axle retainer spacers machined, but I am concerned with the axle length. Im afraid when I bolt on the rotors, they may bind against the parking brake shoes. Has this been an issue? Is there enough length on the axles to add all of the spacers, including the 1/2" thick backing plates?

Thanks for all the pics, I don't think I could be doing this without your experience.

Nice ride. Where in TX are you? I am a Pontiac Abody fan too. In fact part of the reason I have not worked on this in a while is I picked up a 64 Lemans project two weeks ago. Thanks for props on my build.

As for the brakes I was wondering the same thing when I started this. I measured a freinds 01 Camaro and the axle face is close enough to the same it all works.

-Richard

gearheads78

10-26-2008, 10:42 AM

Sweet, keep pluging at it !

Thanks just got some semi-gloss black on it. Inside now killing time waiting for 2nd coat.

gearheads78

10-26-2008, 10:45 AM

Great job on the hump, and the frame looks really good. Get the interior back in and do some driving!

Thanks its almost a shame to put the old body one new frame. I want to drive it BAD!!!

gearheads78

10-26-2008, 06:47 PM

I can't do it....I just can't put the body on with out making the paint and trim as best as I possibly can. After painting the tunnel I stripped all the trim off the body. Going to do everything I can to make the original paint look good/ then I will detail all the trim. Just digging a little deeper. :geek:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Motown 454

10-27-2008, 01:28 PM

You know what they say if your going to jump in it might as well be the deep end. Looks great

gearheads78

11-02-2008, 03:49 PM

You know what they say if your going to jump in it might as well be the deep end. Looks great

After seeing you car I don't think its possible to go deeper LOL

Going to feel much better now. Got a good bit done to the car today. Started by washing it down good and masking everything off to keep from slinging compound everywhere. I sanded it all with 2000 just enough to smooth things out a bit. The factory paint still has a good bit of peel but I did not want to risk cutting through so I was very conservtive in my sanding. I then washed it again to get the sanding sludge off. Finally I buffed it all with a wool pad and 3M Perfect It II compund and washed it again. I still need to polish with a foam pad to remove the swirls. Its still not going to be anywhere near as nice as new paint but its at least 70% better than it was.

Everyone needs a color sanding assistant.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

All sanded...no turning back now
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And buffed
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

barno68

11-02-2008, 07:30 PM

That looks fantastic for still being the factory paint. Is it possible to clear the old urethane?

gearheads78

11-02-2008, 07:59 PM

Its laquer but its not in good enough shape to save premantently. All the top surfaces have tiny checks and crazing all over. Just trying to get it to look the best I can for now. In a year or so it will get a full strip and paint it deserves.

gearheads78

11-26-2008, 02:36 PM

Off work today for Turkey day so I got the body back home finally.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Young Gun

11-26-2008, 02:49 PM

looks amazing!

Motown 454

11-26-2008, 05:52 PM

Wow nice job on that paint. I love a darker red like that. What grit wet sand paper did you use . It looks great on the chassis .
Wayne

gearheads78

11-26-2008, 06:13 PM

Wow nice job on that paint. I love a darker red like that. What grit wet sand paper did you use . It looks great on the chassis .
Wayne

thanks young gun and Wayne
I used 2000. Without knowing how much paint is still on it I was afraid to do any more than that. I will get me by until I can do a real paint job.

454bug

11-26-2008, 08:00 PM

That's an EXCELLENT job with the original paint! It might have minor flaws in the paint for up-close but it sure looks great from a distance... awesome red... great hue! :twothumbs

Great detail work!

barno68

11-27-2008, 05:38 AM

Its looks great! I am still amazed that the original paint is in such good shape.

gearheads78

11-29-2008, 08:31 AM

gearheads78

11-29-2008, 08:33 AM

Its looks great! I am still amazed that the original paint is in such good shape.

Not bad huh. Too bad all the top surfaces are cracked up from the sun.

Btefer

12-03-2008, 10:45 AM

Car is looking awsome. Keep up the good work.

malibu9in

12-04-2008, 08:19 AM

gearheads78

12-04-2008, 10:22 AM

Car looks outstanding. I havn't been into the hotrod scene lately but looking at your ride put a little fire under my ass. Hope the family is doing well. They grow inches overnight. We have a cruise on the 1st sunday of the year here in Bryan. If the car is done mabye yall can come on down! Last years was 250 cars. Alot of nice rides, ROn craft usally brings a Boyd car or 2! Very nice ride....do the malibu next!

How ya been man? Did you ever get the LS swap finished in yours?
Family is great. Don't think it will be ready that soon but I do plan of driving the wheels off it when it is. I'm sure we will cross paths.

As for Malibu next well you are looking at it. I sold it last year to buy parts for this. It was a tough decision to make but t came down to it would cost me about 250.00 every time I tried to drive it if I didn't break anything. Gas for truck, race gas, nitrous, and entry fee adds up quick so I let it go.

malibu9in

12-04-2008, 11:21 AM

By the time i get done with this swap gm will have come out with a new pushrod v8! Very slowly but its coming around. Sux on the malibu but this car your doing is alot nicer body. Ill bookmark your thread. Hope to see ya soon.

1971CHEVELLE

12-20-2008, 02:54 AM

Off work today for Turkey day so I got the body back home finally.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Wow nice job on that paint:1st:Car looks outstanding

gearheads78

12-20-2008, 06:35 AM

Wow nice job on that paint:1st:Car looks outstanding

Thanks...I need to hurry up and get through the holidays so I can get back to work on it.

gearheads78

01-18-2009, 06:40 PM

Well the holidays are over and I finally got in the shop a little this weekend. Managed to get the valve covers sanded and repainted. Then was carefully fitting and assembling the painted and powder coated parts on the motor. Here is a before I started pic and what its looking like now,
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Kenova

01-18-2009, 06:50 PM

They never looked that good from the factory! Excellent Job Richard.

Ken

jackfrost

01-20-2009, 11:05 AM

Olds power looks good!

thanks for the updates

gearheads78

01-20-2009, 12:18 PM

Thanks guys. I am just so ready to drive it again.

icebird84

01-24-2009, 02:05 PM

nice really nice

any updates for us

gearheads78

01-24-2009, 03:31 PM

nice really nice

any updates for us
Thanks Benni not yet but I am hoping to spend the day in the garage tomarrow.

ponchopwr70

01-24-2009, 04:42 PM

Your car is coming out real nice, keep us posted. I like everything you've done. Now go in the garage and finish!

gearheads78

01-24-2009, 09:46 PM

Now go in the garage and finish!

Sir yes sir :)

gearheads78

02-08-2009, 09:05 PM

Lots of little preparation stuff going on right now so not much to report. I did pull the front suspension apart today again. The black zinc plating that came on the cross shafts on the upper control arms was rusting just from the humitity. It was driveing me crazy so I pulled them off and cleaned up, primed and painted them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I also have been tinkering with the wiper motor this week. Ever since I was a little kid I have had a problem with having to take things apart to see how it was put together. As an adult in my mid 30's I am still just as bad :lol:
Over all it was not too hard to get apart. The hardest part was getting the staked motor cover off But it was a waste of time. There is a bronze bushing with a plate welded over it so it can't be removed for plating. It came off pretty easy after I spend time trying things that didn't work. What did work is clamping around the magnetic body with a chain vice grip wrench and clamping the wrench in a vice. I then used a rubber strap wrench to turn the cap when pulling outward and it spun off after getting it going.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Still waiting on some plating to finish but got the hard part done today.
Cleaned everything real good in the parts washer and blasted the aluminum with walnut shells. I painted the motor cover and put the main housing back on the the motor and cover. I then resoldered the motor wires I had disconnected. The hardest part came next. No matter how hard I tried I could not get the mail shaft, white gear and the drive plate down far enough to seat the snap ring. After some head scratching I decided to sacrifice a socket by making a window. It worked perfect pressing it with a c-clamp and was back together in seconds when I did that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

02-19-2009, 08:06 PM

I was off today so I was able to get in the shop a little this afternoon.
I got the original carpet back in. Its a little short now on the sides do to the taller tunnel but it will do for now. Installed the shifter boot after that. If anyone uses this boot make sure to mark you holes with the metal retainer plate. I used the rubber boot and that was a mistake. Some of the holes did not quite line up so I had to get creative with some of the screw angles.
I then started wireing up the TKO600 too. After thinking about how to do it the best way I used the reverse and neutral switches on the transmission to control ground on a couple relays. I went through the facory firewall grommet to the inside of the car. I was able to position the relays so I did not have to cut or splice the original wires at all. Just pulled the wires out of the plug ends and on to the relay. If I ever have a neutral saftey relay go out the reverse relay is right there so I have a back up so i am not standed for mor than a minute. Power to the relays will come from the power window spade in the fuse block.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[img]http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6614/stuff002na2.jpg[/img

Motown 454

02-19-2009, 10:03 PM

As always nice work.

gearheads78

03-10-2009, 07:44 PM

Moving along..
Well a while back I had a horrible rechome job done Mr G's on a real floor shift gauge bezel I had picked up. I still have the stripped one I picked back up from them but I had an idea. My original column shift bezel is in excellent condition and I happen to have a junk dash out of a 67. After a little measuring I discovered there is one place next the the light switch thats just big enough to cut out a section of the groved material.
I cut it out was a little demmel saw and then got it close with a belt sander. Final fitting was done by hand. The very corners were into the smooth area so I cut groves by hand with a tiny file. Once I get a little touch up paint on it you will never know. 8)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I wanted a little bit of custom touch to the outside of the car and here is what I did. The factory light silver in some of the side mouldings was chipped up and rubbed off so it needed to be redone. I still had some of the dark gray the wheels were done in so that is the color the inserts of the mouldings now. The gray and black with polished stainless looks killer against the red.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Motown 454

03-10-2009, 08:39 PM

That looks awesome it should look great on the car.

gearheads78

03-11-2009, 04:59 AM

That looks awesome it should look great on the car.

Thanks Wayne. I didn't think it would make a very noticable difference but I set it against the car it really jumps out. I think I am really going to like it.

Cutls67

03-11-2009, 08:17 AM

Hey Richard,
I am so jealous, mine is pretty much on stand bye unitl I can get some O.T. back. My buddy keeps telling me to get out there and work on it and just do the things that don't cost anything to do. Well seeing your progress. I think this week end I am going to go out and weld up the firewall and start smoothing it out. I also have a question, your car is an original auto correct and you installed the clutch, did you use a kit or find a donor. I need to read on how you did your crankshaft again to see if I want to leave auto or go manual.

STephan

gearheads78

03-11-2009, 08:47 AM

Stephan I pieced it all together with used parts. I had pedals for a 64 3 on the tree chevelle, column out of a 66 Lemans floor shift, z bar off ebay and misc parts sourced from here and there. Yours being a 67 will only work with 67 parts. You can't mix in match 64-66 parts like I did.

What I did with the crank will be temporary. I have heard mixed revues about the auto crank adapter bushings. When I build a 455 it wil have the correct 4speed crank and bushing.

gearheads78

03-14-2009, 06:16 PM

Finished the moulding today. Letting them dry overnight and they are ready to put on.

Who whould have ever thought all those years as a kid building models would be a talent I could still use 25 years later. LOL
I got a quote from a pin-stiper the other day and it was a good bit more than I wanted to spend so I stopped at Hobby Lobby on the way home. I experimented with several techniques but what worked best was mask off the area with fine line tape. I then practicly pored the paint in. I redipped the brush dripping wet every1/2 inch or so. Keeping it this thick really let it self level smooth. My best results were to take the tape off as soon as I was done putting the paint on. Little bit of clean up here and there with thinner and they turned out great. This was a really tedious process but worth it IMO

This is one of those ideas that popped in my head and I really like the results of the finished mouldings. This mod is a close second to my calipers which is still my favorite mod. In the first pic you can see the original silver on the clip next to the new gray to compare them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

03-15-2009, 04:04 PM

Well since I had the paint out I decided to give the emblems a tune up. See the before and after.
So here are the mouldings on the car. Something must be wrong with my camera because the pics suck. Its as best I can do for now. I love it!!

Just need the back down about 4" and it will be perfect.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

1971CHEVELLE

03-15-2009, 05:09 PM

Emblems looks good

jackfrost

03-16-2009, 09:55 AM

nice work Richard. I firmly believe its the little details like that that will separate a car from the pack.

gearheads78

03-16-2009, 12:59 PM

nice work Richard. I firmly believe its the little details like that that will separate a car from the pack.

I agree. if I am at Goodguys and come across a well done car it drives my wife crazy. I will spend 30 min just looking closley at the details. If she wasn't there I could spend an hour or more looking over a well done car. :)

gearheads78

03-29-2009, 07:00 PM

Well I have made a new goal and this one I intend to make. I can't go any deeper without painting it so I should not be doing anything else that will slow me down. Hot Rod Power Tour is just too far away this year so the plan is to take it to Goodguys Nationals in Columbus OH mid July.
Got the rear of the car trimmed out today. Also got the front brakes on the car.
I came up with a pretty nice solution for the Ebrake. I originally bought the Lokar universal rear kit and the connector cable for the front designed for thier after market pedal. I wanted to use the original pedal so I figured I would make it work some how. Well the hole in the floor is almost as big as the connector cable end piece. I would have needed to weld up the floor and drill a new hole. Well I thought about the rear cable sleeve and tried it. It worked perfect. I called Lockar and they gave me a part# to order just a rear cable sleeve. Installed with a little strip caulk and its like it came this way. Still have to figure how to mount the cables under the car. I should have that done my next day off.

Finally installed the bumper I paid 50.00 extra for a rush jod to be ready by last May. LOL
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The calipers will look sweet rolling down the highway.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

here you can see the difference in the cable end. The bolt style intended for the rear worked perfect.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

installed in the firewall factory hole.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

CruizinKev

03-29-2009, 07:59 PM

yeah nice work!! :twothumbs

datsunfreak

03-29-2009, 08:30 PM

gearheads78

03-30-2009, 03:53 AM

Do they not do good work? I was thinking of using them to rechrome some interior pieces, but I don't know anyone who has used them...

I was very displeased with the crap they sent me back. I could have made my parts look better with Autozone chrome in a can.

Code Red

03-30-2009, 04:05 AM

very nice man

datsunfreak

03-30-2009, 04:56 PM

I was very displeased with the crap they sent me back. I could have made my parts look better with Autozone chrome in a can.

Sorry to hear that, but thanks for the warning. :)

gearheads78

03-30-2009, 07:36 PM

very nice man

Thanks...you get yours fired yet?

gearheads78

04-01-2009, 07:11 PM

Finshed up setting up the custom E-brake system with the factory pedal. Works perfect. Ended up making a braket to drop down the front cable bracket so it pulls dead straight on the rear cable brakets. I took lots of consideration and where to run the rear cables so they will move as needed but not get in the way of anything moving in the suspension. I used stainless clamps picked up at a local street rod shop to attach them to the frame. I'm pleased with the looks and function.

The next task was to center the rear with the upper control arms and finally check tire and wheel clearance at full suspention travel and at ride height. Well my home made measuring tool worked like a charm. Wheel wells are as full as they can be and I didn't cut a thing. I may need some very slight clearancing with a hammer on one of the inner wheel wells but I will have to drive it to see first. Of course I had to snap a shot of the future ride stance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Motown 454

04-01-2009, 07:53 PM

It looks good , nice job.

icebird84

04-03-2009, 05:00 AM

It looks good , nice job.

indeed keep it up

wmhjr

04-03-2009, 07:03 AM

I keep watching...... You're a bit ahead of me. But close enough that watching your progress keeps me excited. Really nice attention to detail.

gearheads78

04-03-2009, 07:50 PM

I keep watching...... You're a bit ahead of me. But close enough that watching your progress keeps me excited. Really nice attention to detail.

Technically you are ahead of me. I still have to go back and do paint and body and build a 455 later.

I saw in your thread you are going to make GG in July. Is that the Columbus show? If so I will see you there. Already put in for my vacation for that week.

wmhjr

04-04-2009, 04:32 AM

Technically you are ahead of me. I still have to go back and do paint and body and build a 455 later.

I saw in your thread you are going to make GG in July. Is that the Columbus show? If so I will see you there. Already put in for my vacation for that week.

Yup, I'm going to try and make Columbus. I don't know if it will work out or not. We're making progress on the body but it's behind schedule. I wanted a Apr 15-May 1 completion date for the body and paint, but it's probably going to be more toward the end of May. Though I've bought all the interior components and will have the convertible frame on by then, I'll still need to do all the wiring, all the interior and convertible top, all the wiring, the exhaust, fuel tank, wheel alignment, etc. Jeff (body/paint guy) wants to try and get it in the Pro's Pick area. We'll see.

I'll keep you posted on the status. Hopefully I'll see you there!

gearheads78

04-04-2009, 05:25 AM

Yup, I'm going to try and make Columbus. I don't know if it will work out or not. We're making progress on the body but it's behind schedule. I wanted a Apr 15-May 1 completion date for the body and paint, but it's probably going to be more toward the end of May. Though I've bought all the interior components and will have the convertible frame on by then, I'll still need to do all the wiring, all the interior and convertible top, all the wiring, the exhaust, fuel tank, wheel alignment, etc. Jeff (body/paint guy) wants to try and get it in the Pro's Pick area. We'll see.

I'll keep you posted on the status. Hopefully I'll see you there!

Sweet I hope you make it. Whats the Pros Pick area? Place for vendor built cars?

wmhjr

04-04-2009, 05:24 PM

Sweet I hope you make it. Whats the Pros Pick area? Place for vendor built cars?

Boyds Pro's Picks area. It's not really for vendors cars - mine isn't a vendor car. Honestly I don't know all that much about it but will find out more. Today went OK after a rocky start, so we'll see.

Code Red

04-04-2009, 07:29 PM

Thanks...you get yours fired yet?

HA i wish lol been busy with other stuff

gearheads78

04-05-2009, 05:37 PM

Well todays update should really be called a back date because I made major negative progress.
I made my last brake lines that go from the master to the prop. valve on the frame. Also made a small bracket that bolts to the pedal bracket stud on the firewall to keep the lines from getting in to the steering colum or clutch linkage. All is well so far. Things went down hill from there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

This the first time I have ever used stainless line. I had heard its a little harder to to get to seal but I had no idea how bad it was going to be. I started to bleed the brake lines and saw some fluid dripping on the floor from the prop. valve. I then start looking close at all the connections and more than 1/2 of them are leaking to one extent or another. :hammer: I manage to to get most of them sealed up by tightening and loosening several times but some the the lines on the prop valve I could not get to without removing the starter which it the big PITA with the lakewood scatter shield. To remove the starter I had to disconnect the clutch linkage too.

I got the last of the lines sealed up and a nice hard pedal so it was time to put it all back together. When I got to the clutch linkage I noticed the fork was kind of flopping around like the spring had slid off the ball. No big deal slid it back right? NOT!! I tried for 5 min feeling for it with the fork to slid it on but it never would catch. I finally resorted to a light and a mirror so I could see up in there and could believe my eyes. There was no spring clip. Brand new fork and the spring had broken off at the rivet :banghead: Now the motor has to come out again which is not a huge deal in itself but I have to wait for another fork to be shipped to me.

At this point I needed to just get away so I took the wife and daughter to the park for a couple hours. We got back and I wanted to get a little more done before it got dark. I was bolting down one of the front seats and I over did it on one of the studs. POP!!! Its broke now the carpet has to come out on the drivers side so I can weld a new stud. Its just wasn't my day.

wmhjr

04-06-2009, 05:05 AM

Bummer. I knew flaring stainless is a real pain, and have been told that to get a reliable flare (in particular the optimal double flare) you really need a hydraulic flare tool - which ain't cheap for the infrequent use. So far I've been making mock-ups fo the required plumbing and sending them to Right Stuff to have them duplicate them in stainless.

I initially was going to use a mechanical clutch linkage myself, but after one round of installing the assembly, throwout bearing, clutch fork, etc and not liking the geometry (and because the body was not on, plus concerns about clearance with scattershield and headers) I changed my mind. Instead, I switched to a hydraulic throwout bearing assembly. At least at this point I'm really glad I went that route. We'll see when it comes time to adjust it....

Hope your days improve.

gearheads78

04-06-2009, 07:37 AM

I have the Mastercool hydaulic tool. Its work great but its still more work to get the stainless lines to seat. Doing a search I came across Jeff Lilly Restoration web site. it shows to use copper washers on stainless lines and the seal right up.

from his site

33. These tiny copper gaskets go in between the fittings and flare for that extra margin of sealing. When doing stainless lines this is where they shine as you do not have to tweak the line wrench so hard to get a proper seal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

wmhjr

04-06-2009, 07:59 AM

I found the same article, but haven't seen where somebody can buy them. Any ideas?

gearheads78

04-06-2009, 08:19 AM

I found the same article, but haven't seen where somebody can buy them. Any ideas?

I found them several places here is an example
http://www.gsistore.com/copper-flare-gasket.html

Motown 454

04-06-2009, 12:14 PM

Sorry to hear of your problems . I've heard those copper gaskets work pretty well. I hope they fix it for you.

gearheads78

04-06-2009, 12:24 PM

Sorry to hear of your problems . I've heard those copper gaskets work pretty well. I hope they fix it for you.

The lines are no longer a problem I got them all sealed up. I Guess in looking back I'm glad I had some leaks. If not I would not have found the defective clutch fork untill after the whole car was together. Then I would have been really mad.

MYSTICMISSLE

04-15-2009, 02:33 AM

[whose upper a arm is this? what spindles? very impressed with your build!!
quote=gearheads78;393490]I had to work Satuday but I was off today and got some stuff done.
The first order of business was to see if I could fix the front control arm that I bent in the press last week. My idea worked using a long piece of all thread. The nuts were able to bend it back in to place. It was a relief not to have to find another control arm.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I was able to pick up my rear end housing on Friday night. I friend set up the new Eaton posi and a set of used GM 3.73's out of a late model Chevy truck. I made another press tool to get the upper bushings in. The LH side is so close that I had to hack off a large part of the circle to get it to clear.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
When you order SPC arms with screw in upper ball joints there come already assembled. I did not want the gold cad finish so I had them sent apart so I could get them plated silver. I found a socket but it only came in 3/4 drive so I asked the techs at my office if anyone had a rachet I could borrow. Well I got one. I am calling this the "GODZILLA" wrench. :shock:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
It would be too much to ask for things to just bolt together. The upper Currie Trac arm would not get close to fitting on the LH side. I had to ruin thier nice powder coating and notch a bunch of material off the inside edge. Few coats of Semigloss spray paint and it was back in business.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
For the most part the rest of eveything went smooth. Got the new 3/8 fuel line to upgrade from the original 5/16 line so it will be ready for the future 455. All the rear suspension and part of the front suspension is now together. Also got the motor frame pads but on. Its starting to look like it might be a car again. :D
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/quote]

1971CHEVELLE

04-15-2009, 04:22 AM

It looks good keep us posted

icebird84

04-15-2009, 10:31 AM

it looks nice and clean , keep up the good work

gearheads78

04-16-2009, 05:40 PM

whose upper a arm is this? what spindles? very impressed with your build!!
quote=gearheads78;393490]I had to work Satuday but I was off today and got some stuff done.

Thanks.....The front control arms are SPC with the bolt in ball joint option. The come gold cad but I replated them. I have also since upgraded to the prolite hex adjusters. The spindles are original to the car.

Richard

gearheads78

04-16-2009, 05:42 PM

It looks good keep us posted

it looks nice and clean , keep up the good work

Thanks again

wmhjr

04-17-2009, 03:40 AM

Hey, a word of advice that I wish I had taken a few weeks ago....

My build is now re-assembled for the last time before final paint. It's going through another round or two of block sanding. But when I installed the entire drivetrain in the suspended frame, I had run all my new stainless fuel and the front to rear brake lines. What I DIDN'T do was run the front left to right brake line. Especially since I'm running an 8 1/2" quart deep oil pan, there was no way to get it installed and get clips on it. Had to pull the engine AGAIN, which considering the ceramic coated headers, was a real PITA. It did give me the opportunity to tap the holes in the frame for the clips and use machine threaded stainless bolts rather than self tapping bolts that'll rust.

BTW, I'm running those same SPC Pro-Lite front UCAs with the SPC springs. Have you had the entire body with everything on it assembled yet to see what the stance will be yet? Just curious. I've got a 3/4" aluminum spacer in the front of mine to keep it kind of level - considering the drop that the Howe tall ball joints will create.

gearheads78

04-17-2009, 05:54 AM

I had already built the lines other than from the prop valve on the frame to the master so that is taken care of.

I have yet to have full weight on the car yet. My plan in to get it all together and drive a little. Once suspension is settled I will space or trim as needed to get the exact stance I want.

i've been dead in the water all week. My lift took a crap on me and everything I need to do right now requires it. I hope to get it back working tonight.

wmhjr

04-17-2009, 07:15 AM

Bummer. Hope your lift gets back in operation quick. I know what delays are like. I ended up getting sick this past week, and haven't been able to spend any time at all on mine for a week now. The only up side is that for the most part I'm now waiting on other folks. I got good news yesterday evening that my seats and rear upholstery is done and ready for pickup - I plan to get them this weekend. But I need to assemble the convertible top frame and parts to make sure they're ready, and then we're going to lay out and mock up the wiring so that we're as prepared as possible. The American AutoWire Highway kit was also delivered, so I'm planning to lay out a large sheet on the floor of my shop and mock up all the connections prior to the wiring installation.

Your build is going real well - I'm sure the minor setback won't be that bad.

gearheads78

04-17-2009, 05:10 PM

gearheads78

04-18-2009, 08:38 PM

Well I guess I can add hydraulic cylinder repair to my resume:) No pics to share but you can use your imagination on this one. I got the seal kit and stopped at tractor supply for a 7 foot 3/16 rod. Bent the rod on the end into a u-shape and slipped the "U" though the hole in the handle of a round end toilet brush.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/eek-1.gif Sprayed some mineral spirits inside the tube and on the brush. Clamped the other end into my hand drill. Walah instant 8 ft long rotating tube cleaning brush. Got it all back together and works perfect.

gearheads78

05-01-2009, 07:40 PM

Got a day off today and I am exteemly pissed right now. I never was happy with the factory exhaust manifolds. They looked OK from a distance but had some deep pits that bothered me. I pulled the trigger and bought a new set from Parts Place. These are sold as performance manifolds for duals made like the ones X/W for the factory big block. I know these are pretty new to the market but I must be the first person to ever get a set. There sure didn't spend much time R/D.
I put the LH one on first and it seems to fit fine. I then went to the RH side and it started snugging up and I was still seeing daylight under the gasket. At first I though it was warped but after getting under the car I saw the problem. The manifold was completely up against the top bolt of the oil filter adapter. I pulled it back off and removed the bolt to see how much clearance I needed. With the bolt removed it would seal up but the manifold was still touching the oil filter adapter.
At this point I should have just boxed them up and send them back but I really don't have time for delays right now so I decided to just make it work. I cut down the housing a little and used a counter sink bit and cut a recess in the housing and used a countersink bolt. I still had to grind on the manifold and good bit to gain some minimal clearance.
Here you can see no bolt installed and it still hits
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
A little bit of home brewed machine work on the adapter
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Oh the fun of grinding on new parts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Now we have a little clearance. Not optimal but it will work.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I thought the problems were behind me getting the RH side ironed out but I was very wrong. Tonight I went to put the starter back on and only the inside bolt would go in. The starter still needs to rotate out and good bit to install the bolt. Well after looking up to see the problem I about went throug the roof. You guessed it. The LH side was crammed up agaist the starter. The is no amout of grinding or clearancing that will let it work with my original starter.
See how the starter still needs to rotate out at least another 1/4" or so.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Not gonna happen with this exhaust in place.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Don't get me wrong I don't mind making things work its all about building a hot rod but these are designed and casted completly wrong. When I saw the LH side I was about sick at my stomach and just had to come inside before I started throwing things.

Finshing up with a few pics of progress. Engine is about finished up the core support and new mid 80's Suburban radiator that drops right in to the original saddles with no modification at all.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

wmhjr

05-02-2009, 04:17 AM

gearheads78

05-02-2009, 06:50 AM

Man, that really sucks. Honestly, I don't think I'd leave those new ones on there. I think I'd be calling the parts place and having a serious discussion with them. If the fitment was so far off, you have to wonder about the actual quality of the casting itself. I'm with you - building a project like this you expect to have to use some imagination and there's sure rework that you need to expect. But, something as straight forward as a factory replacement cast exhaust manifold doesn't fall into that category. I'm curious, though. You're obviously not building a concourse nut and bolt restoration. Why not put a set of Dougs Headers on there now while it's opened up?

I don't think Dougs makes anything for 64-67 SBO. No one on the Olds sites has mentioned them anyway. The 330 is only temporary until I can build the 455 so my plan was to use these for now and sell them when I build the big block.

There is no way to make the LH one work unless I carry around 4 strong guys to help me push start it everywhere I go. Someone just posted on the Olds site that they think they sent me big block manifolds which makes since with the taller deck of the BBO would bring them up and out of the way.

I'm probably screwed now that I ground on the RH one but I will contact Parts Place monday and see what they say.

wmhjr

05-02-2009, 02:44 PM

I don't think Dougs makes anything for 64-67 SBO. No one on the Olds sites has mentioned them anyway. The 330 is only temporary until I can build the 455 so my plan was to use these for now and sell them when I build the big block.

You're right - I forgot you've got the temp motor. My bad.

gearheads78

05-09-2009, 07:31 PM

Forward progress today. Starting to look carish again.
Make sure to stand back 10 ft and you can admire my high dollar custom paint. :razz:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Motown 454

05-10-2009, 10:07 AM

You must be siked being so close to driving it again.

gearheads78

05-10-2009, 07:24 PM

You must be siked being so close to driving it again.

you are 100% correct

Mothers day put a damper on things today but I did manage to get the hood sanded buffed and on the car. I knew it was bound to happen since the factory paint is so thin. I buffed the paint thin enough to see primer in a couple small spots.

wmhjr

05-11-2009, 06:50 AM

Glad the progress continues! What are you going to do about those thin spots? Can you notice it real easy?

gearheads78

05-11-2009, 07:05 AM

Glad the progress continues! What are you going to do about those thin spots? Can you notice it real easy?

Nothing for now. It just goes with the rest of the paint and gives it character. There are small rust holes on the bottom of both fenders rock chips on the door and lots of cracking / crazing on the rear deck lid. At this stage in the cars life the plan on the body was not to make the body and paint perfect just as good as I can with what I have to work with. If I don't end up selling it to build something else then I will perfect the body and paint in the future.

gearheads78

05-14-2009, 07:08 PM

I little more assembly tonight. I got the grill on and noticed it had the same silver paint from the side mlds. I was faded and kinda nasty so I pulled it back off and spent a few hours painting it the dark gray I've been using.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

gearheads78

05-21-2009, 04:58 PM

Now I am just teasing myself. LOL Few small details and need to add an exhaust system. After 14 months I can drive it again. I got a universal 2.25" Abody system from Summit. I hope to be able to build it this weekend.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

wmhjr

05-21-2009, 07:52 PM

You've got to be thinking about this all the time, since you're so close. Getting any sleep?

Motown 454

05-21-2009, 07:58 PM

It looks great all back together. Trim looks good too.

1968CamaroSS_Sam

05-21-2009, 08:07 PM

It is looking great. I bet it is exciting to be putting it back together.

gearheads78

05-22-2009, 04:01 AM

Well I had hoped to have it on the trailer today to drag it to work for an alignment. Then it would be just exhaust and a little interior before I could drive this weekend.

Well last night added oil, coolant, gas, battery key power on everything works. Turn the key to start and nothing. At that point I just came inside and went to bed. So in the shower this morning I'm going through in my head anything it could be and all of the sudden:idea: My dumb ass never put a fuse in the not used power window circuit that I used for the neutral starter interupt relay. I bet it fires right up tonight.

wmhjr

05-22-2009, 05:53 AM

You gonna record the first fire?

Motown 454

05-22-2009, 11:47 AM

Sweet !

gearheads78

05-23-2009, 07:02 PM

OK for you die hard olds guys you will enjoy this and get a good laugh. For you Chevy guys working on Oldsmobile this may save you from killing yourself. :machine:

Its been 14 months since I took my car apart. Well thurs night I planned on starting it so I could trailer it to work Friday for adjusting all the suspension before I can drive it. Starter was dead but I figured out it was a fuse issue with my neutral saftey system.

So Friday night with the starter working I try to prime the carb but all I cab get it to do it blubber. I add a little gas over and over till finally the pump is primed but it just won't start. I move the distributor back and forth a little at a time but it just won't fire. I run the battery down trying and put the charger on it. I try another 15 min and see a small fire reflection from the raw gas in the open exhaust manifold so I just call it a night.

So today I start about 1:00 and add a temporary exhaust a few feet behind the motor so I don't have any more potential fires. I check the timing I check for spark I check the compression incase some how sitting the rings stuck. I try a differnet coil and different distributor incase the Pertronix is bad or installed wrong. I literly try everything I can think of well into tonight. So I am putting the Pertronix distributor back in and I bump the starter and watch the rotor turn counter clockwise. I thing I am seeing things and the bump it again and watch it turn counter clockwise for sure. I literly screamed out loud. So I set the timing and correct the wires in the right order and it fires in less than 1/2 a revolution and sits there and purrs at idle. I can't believe how much of a headache its been for such a simple fix. :hammer:

1360

05-24-2009, 02:43 AM

I bought a Bronco CHEAP because someone did the exact same thing.....redid the wires & off I went.

Damn nice car, BTW.

wmhjr

05-24-2009, 04:33 AM

Man, you have no idea how much I laughed when I read this. Not because of anything dumb you did, but becuase I know EXACTLY what you went through.

About 30 years ago I was transplanting an Olds 400 and Muncie 4spd out of a 69 442 (that was wrecked) into my 68 442 with a very tired 400 and auto tranny. I had always been a chevy guy, and so were my friends who were helping. After getting everything in, I could get the motor to fire once or twice, but then it would backfire and buck, and quit. I went through the exact same process until I also discovered the reverse firing order! Swapped the plug wire positions, and presto.

I will never forget that experience.

Cutls67

05-24-2009, 05:44 AM

I know how you feel Richard, I pretty much did the same thing. I had a friend help me fire my car for the first time and all he had ever worked on were chevy motors. It took us a few hours to figure out that he had iwred it wrong.

Stephan

gearheads78

05-25-2009, 10:05 AM

I will never forget that experience.

Trust me ...I won't either

I know how you feel Richard, I pretty much did the same thing. I had a friend help me fire my car for the first time and all he had ever worked on were chevy motors. It took us a few hours to figure out that he had iwred it wrong.

Stephan

Its funny now but I was ready to kill someone about 8:45 sat night.

Well I got it aligned this morning. It took a little while. I had never used and aligment machine and the tech helping me is used to Lexus vehicles not old hod rods with custom suspension. Once I figured out what made what change it went pretty smooth but it was a leaning curve for both of us.

I did find a small problem. I drove it next door to our body shop because several guys have been waiting to see it. Well sitting there only 15 minutes the LH front tire was almost flat. It turns out the valve stems hit the calipers up front and damaged one of them causing it to leak.

NvrDun71

05-25-2009, 10:13 AM

Congrats on getting it back on the road man, how are you liking the TKO so far?

jackfrost

05-26-2009, 09:46 AM

Chevy guys. :bsjerk:

:razz: ;)

gearheads78

05-26-2009, 05:09 PM

Congrats on getting it back on the road man, how are you liking the TKO so far?

Great for up and down the trailer and the whole block it's been driven.

I hope to have some real feedback by the weekend. :fingersx:

gearheads78

06-01-2009, 08:25 PM

The end is near.............
Well my punch out list is down to just a few items. I finally get to drive it in the next day or two. I have forced myself from starting to drive it because I would not want to go back and finish some details I have been working on. Finally time to reap some rewards of my labor and way too much $$ spent.
Here is the exhaust I had put on last week.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

wmhjr

06-01-2009, 08:39 PM

Now I'm jealous. I'm nowhere near as close to driving!

gearheads78

06-02-2009, 08:29 AM

Now I'm jealous. I'm nowhere near as close to driving!

What do you mean? Its in paint right....I see guys on TV have them ready to drive the next day out of the booth. If they can do it in a day it should only take you 2-3 days right. :razz:

wmhjr

06-02-2009, 10:41 AM

Yeah, well, Chip was stuck late on the set so we're behind schedule....

Seriously, we had a minor set-back. The right rear quarter is going to need to be worked on a little, and then repainted. :(

gearheads78

06-04-2009, 07:29 PM

Ignoir the missing center cap and the rear stance. Those will be addressed soon. Here is the first daylight complete pics in 14 months. For grins I added one of the original pics from before I started.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

hechtrod

06-04-2009, 07:33 PM

That's clean. I'm not a 'vert guy, but that looks slick! I like the engine bay too.

Roger M

06-04-2009, 07:39 PM

Nice work! You did an awesome job of keeping it clean and tasteful(not too much 'bling'). I like it :cheers:

Boesch

06-04-2009, 08:04 PM

Looks great! Now let the fun begin!

SamHatco

06-05-2009, 05:19 AM

Looks great, Richard. Now you can have some fun!. You got the stance just right.:1st:

Sam

Motown 454

06-05-2009, 08:26 AM

The car looks great. It looks like you had a nice night to enjoy it too. :twothumbs

jackfrost

06-05-2009, 08:27 AM

great job, man. now go drive it! :razz:

jon72vega

06-05-2009, 05:50 PM

Beautiful Job!!!!!

Kenova

06-05-2009, 06:23 PM

:drool:
You did an excellent job with the paint. Looks like a real show stopper in the pictures. Awsome engine compartment, nice and clean.

Ken

gearheads78

06-05-2009, 08:27 PM

Looks great! Now let the fun begin!
Thanks...I hope your guys found me some o-rings. He said there is only one size but there is no way in heLL the ones you guys last sent will work.

As for the wheels I am still very happy with my selection which is saying something for all the wheels that have come out in the last year since I had these. I say you need to make the paint detail an option. I've lost count on the comments and asking me what wheels they are and the "i've never seen that on from them" remarks

Looks great, Richard. Now you can have some fun!. You got the stance just right.:1st:
Sam

Just needs to go down about 1" in the back. I need to drive it a little before I cut the springs any more though.

The car looks great. It looks like you had a nice night to enjoy it too. :twothumbs We have had some real nice weather the last few days. Who needs a top

great job, man. now go drive it! :razz:
Drove it to work today sir

Beautiful Job!!!!!

:drool:
You did an excellent job with the paint. Looks like a real show stopper in the pictures. Awsome engine compartment, nice and clean.

Ken

Thanks guys The pictures make it nicer than it really is but it is pretty decent for sure.

gearheads78

06-06-2009, 02:01 PM

Some last minute clean up and assembly done. Here are some final pics from getting it out today.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Damn True

06-07-2009, 10:03 PM

Beautiful car man! Nice job!

wmhjr

06-08-2009, 06:21 AM

Man, I am seriously jealous that you're riding and I'm still wrenching. Nice job - really captures the right look for that car.

gto406

06-08-2009, 06:26 AM

I love the stance, and the arm over the passenger seat driving style!

Really nice ride!

Young Gun

06-08-2009, 09:22 AM

great job! clean and classy!

gearheads78

06-08-2009, 06:38 PM

Beautiful car man! Nice job!

Thanks True...

Man, I am seriously jealous that you're riding and I'm still wrenching. Nice job - really captures the right look for that car.

Don't worry the first time I see you post about smoky burn outs I will be the jelous one. I hope you make it to Columbus so I can see it in person.

I love the stance, and the arm over the passenger seat driving style!

Really nice ride!

Thanks....I still need to trim the rear spings a little more. i want another inch in the back and it will be perfect IMO. Front is already dead on.

great job! clean and classy!

Thanks Colin...You ever get a Nova replacement yet?

Young Gun

06-08-2009, 07:29 PM

Thanks Colin...You ever get a Nova replacement yet?

Sadly no, not yet. Hopefully if my ROTC scholarship comes through soon I will be able to start looking for something. Not holding my breath though, more people are applying for them and they are mostly gone so Ill have to stick it out a bit longer!

modular93fox

07-13-2009, 07:37 AM

awesome job. just awesome.
clint

Radlark

07-13-2009, 08:05 AM

Looking AWESOME Richard!!!!!!!! Great job!

gearheads78

07-14-2009, 08:02 AM

Looking AWESOME Richard!!!!!!!! Great job!

awesome job. just awesome.
clint

Thanks guys....

I just got back from taking the car to Goodguys Columbus OH. You want to talk about a gut check. There were sooooo many super nice cars. Saturday they told me to pull in the Builders Choise area. My car looked like a beater compared to the ones parked around me. I felt real out of place.

wmhjr

07-14-2009, 08:17 AM

SamHatco

07-14-2009, 04:45 PM

Thanks guys....

I just got back from taking the car to Goodguys Columbus OH. You want to talk about a gut check. There were sooooo many super nice cars. Saturday they told me to pull in the Builders Choise area. My car looked like a beater compared to the ones parked around me. I felt real out of place.

Richard,

That just tells me that your piers think you did a pretty good job yourself. :1st: Congradulations.

Sam

78 Type-LT

07-14-2009, 05:55 PM

sweet ride

gearheads78

07-14-2009, 07:04 PM

Richard,
Due to a pretty consistent series of unfortunate events on my build, I didn't make it. But...

You should be very proud of what you have. Remember that your car will continue to be a work in progress, with you doing the work. I know of tons of cars that were there that the only thing the owners did was write checks. There's one Chevelle in particular that's from around here. The owner has more than $200k in it. I talked to him at a show a few months back, and he was clueless about so many things in his car. Nothing wrong with that - it's good for the hobby. But for those who bust their knuckles and struggle with the details, there should be a deeper sense of pride and satisfaction. Don't sell your car or yourself short. You've got a great ride.

Richard,

That just tells me that your piers think you did a pretty good job yourself. :1st: Congradulations.

Sam

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm not unhappy with my car by any means. I just want perfection. I the long run I will probably sell this one and start over with a rougher car. Some of the things I want to do will require some body mods and I just don't have the heart to cut up this car or destoy the original paint. I had a hard enough time cutting the floor.

Donovan

07-24-2009, 01:43 PM

gearheads78

07-24-2009, 07:58 PM

Great thread! I totally enjoyed the journey for about 45 minutes today. Very nice car and job well fricken' done! The pic of the engine bay in your for sale ad is a great money shot too.

Next up 455 OLDS?

What did you do about the manifolds, I didn't see where you say. On the shelf waiting for the BBO?

I identified with the part about the 2 yo daughter, thanks for sharing.

Thanks Donovan

500ish HP 550 ft lbs 455 in is the down hill side of planning stages

Send manifolds back to Parts Place and since that was thier third strike with me I am done with them.

Now she's 3 and says faster daddy faster all the time but the 330 won't go anywhere. 455 is her fault:yeah:

rockytopper

09-25-2009, 08:27 AM

Lucky Me I get to see this bad ass in person this weekend. Looks like Richard an I have struck a deal on his discarded rearend. I lost mine details inside http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1145410-ls1-f85-hits-top-speed-record.html

1badchevelle

09-25-2009, 08:45 AM

Ignoir the missing center cap and the rear stance. Those will be addressed soon. Here is the first daylight complete pics in 14 months. For grins I added one of the original pics from before I started.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I love the pink seat in the back. I have two boys a 5 and 6 and they have their Simpson racing seats in my Chevelle. and that is the only car they want them in. I had to buy other booster seats for the daily driver.

gearheads78

10-01-2009, 05:32 PM

Slight change ready for Goodguys this weekend. I think the red looks much better than the orange.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

pmgm

10-04-2009, 03:36 PM

That is a nice car.....

gearheads78

10-05-2009, 05:55 PM

Thanks I really like that you don't see any more of them

elements

05-09-2010, 06:40 PM

Nice job. I have my own red 66 Olds Cutlass Convertible I've been working on for a while. I started with the frame replacement, then upgrading brakes, suspension, etc. Then jumped on the replacement of the 330 and jetaway automatic with a newly built 455 and bowtie overdrives transmission. Currently back in the shop for paint and metal parts. Trying to decide on what color / shade of red I will go with.

gearheads78

05-09-2010, 06:44 PM

sounds cool...you should start a thread on it

elements

05-09-2010, 06:53 PM

I believe I will! :)

gearheads78

06-07-2010, 06:42 PM

Little bit of work started before the new owner takes delivery.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs052-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs053-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs075-1.jpg

Motown 454

06-07-2010, 08:09 PM

That should make quite a difference.

gearheads78

06-12-2010, 06:50 PM

So I sold it for more than I was asking but the deal was I fix the only rust in the car at the bottom of the fenders, install a new top dynamat and new carpet. Well today I started on the first fender.

Kind of looks sad 1/2 way apart

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs076-1.jpg

Here you can see where the damage is and where I decided to make the splice.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs077-1.jpg

here you can see the cancer cut out and what is left of a reinforcement brace. This piece goes between the main brace and the outer skin making 3 layers in that area.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs078-1.jpg

Here you can see how crusty even the main brace it. It cleaned up pretty good but will still require a patch to replace some deep pits.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs079-1.jpg

Here you can see the brace piece I made from some 16 gage scrap I had. This was harder than it looks to make in one piece with basic tools. If I have to do the other side I think I will make it in two pieces and weld it together. Thats it for tonight. Sunday I hope to patch the main brace and get the new skin piece made.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs080-1.jpg

chunger

06-13-2010, 07:35 AM

Nice build! Have you driven it since you laid the Dynamat? I'm curious how much difference it makes in a convertible - I've been pondering this exact point for my ragtop.

Motown 454

06-13-2010, 10:41 AM

Nice work on the inside brace piece. It looks great.

elements

06-13-2010, 01:25 PM

I'm adding Dynamat to my 66 Cutlass Convertible as well, while I have it taken apart for paint. While I'm at it, I'm converting my automatic column shift to floor console and swapping my bench for buckets.

gearheads78

06-13-2010, 06:38 PM

Well here is today's progress. I wish i could say this was a couple hours work but the truth is I was at it for more than 1/2 the day. Good thing I don't do this for a living. I would go broke quick. LOL

After a good look at the pitting this is what I decided to replace.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs081-1.jpg

I did one side at a time to help keep the shape. Most of the time spent was sizing the patches. I got the size close then grind check grind check sneaking up on the final size to fit the hole near perfectly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs082-1.jpg

Here you can see the finished piece on the right and just welded piece on the left.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs083-1.jpg

inner stucture all finished up ready to start on the outside now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs084-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs085-1.jpg

Well Oldsmobile purists you may not like this part. I had an old Chevelle door out back and the top edge was very close to the contour of the bottom of the fender that I needed so Chevy metal will be used for this repair :razz:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs087-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs086-1.jpg

Well after lots of time shaping here is where I finished up tonight. I'm not sure if the Chevelle door piece saved me any time or ot. I might have been the same or even less work starting from scratch. That it for now more to come later.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/52410fs088-1.jpg

gearheads78

08-12-2010, 07:48 PM

Its been a while since I updated this. I didn't do much of anything for a month after Chloe died but I have been getting back outside the last few weekends.

Moving along on the fenders. I made the first patch panel 3 times before I was happy with it. The 3rd try is now welded in as you see below.

The first picture is the hammer form I ended up making to do the bolt recesses. The mistake I made on the first one was I fitted the patch perfectly and the tried to make the recesses. This pulled metal from the edge so it no longer fit.

The 2nd patch I made the recesses first but I used wood and the wood gave way and didn't allow my bolt area to be steep and deep enough. This would not have allowed the same adjustment of the fender as original.

The 3rd and final patch I made the metal hammer form and it allowed the metal to go exactly where I wanted it to.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed1003-1.jpg

1st try

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/52410fs089-1.jpg

2nd try

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed024-1.jpg

3rd time is a charm

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed1001-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed1002-1.jpg

The left fender brace had to have similar patch work as the right and the reinforcement piece had to be made from scratch just like the other side. I used a spot blaster to get all the rust pits clean then I shot inside and out with epoxy to help keep this from ever happening again.

Once the epoxy dried overnight it was time to start putting it all together.
There is the Left side reinforcment tab in its new home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed1004-1.jpg

Started tacking in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed1005-1.jpg

more tacking

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed1006-1.jpg

And finally finished welding. Overall I am pretty happy but it still going to take a little mud to smooth it to perfection. When butt welding a panel like this I learned the metal moves alot from welding. If I was doing this again I would have cut the brace out above where the patch was going to be so I had full access to the back side of the weld on the other sheet and have a much nicer finished product.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/shed1009-1.jpg