plastic safe paint remover?

[justasquid]

I know this isnt quite the right place, but I thought if anyone would know, it would be in here.

I have to remove paint from some interior pieces. they are the kickpanels that a previous owner painted. Now the paint is falling off in some places, and stuck really good in others. My plan is to remove the paint, and repaint/dye the panels. But I do not see any safe way to remove the paint without damaging the textured plastic.

Does anyone make a plastic safe paint remover?

[redhead]

check the local autobody supply stores.
I know they make strippers for plastic bumpers etc.
da.

[danbob67]

I would try to pressure wash or just use a air blower to get it off. all of the plastic strippers I have tried have messed up or melted the plastic. I would only use the plastic stripper as a last resort.

[pobby_11]

agreed if the paint is chipping they didn't do it right which is good for you compressed air will take it right off if you need some advice for painting them right let me know done lots of them with success.

[justasquid]

Well, I tried the compressed air, and it didnt work. I'm not really sure what they used on it before, almost looks like rustoleum paint. I have a few different style tips ranging from 1/16 of inch to 1/4 inch and none of them worked.

I havent tried the pressure washer yet, but I will be this weekend for sure.

If I do get them clean. Pobby11, you mentioned the right way to paint them. I would like to hear any suggestions you have on this, or anyone else as well.

I was planning on using duplicolors vinyl and fabric paint.. Is this a good choice to change the color? It is going from blue to black.

thanks everyone for the replys.

[z65mm6]

I'm curious about this too.
Has anyone tried "sandblasting" with baking soda?

I know on textured exterior pieces I've used Ajax and a stiff scrub brush when I'm trying to take oxidation off while prepping trim for touch up paint. I haven't seen where this has ever hurt the texture. Takes some elbow grease though.

[ZZ430]

Try lighter fluid, worked for me.

[NOT A TA]

I've beadblasted interior pebble grained plastic to remove stubborn old paint/dyes with very good success. If it's been painted with krylon then laquer thinner may wipe it right off. Test any chemical or process on a junk piece or on the back of a piece to make sure it doesn't wreck the plastic. If you use the search function in the interiors section you should find previous threads on painting plastic and dyeing upholstery.

[Mike Holleman]

Be careful with baking soda blasting of soft materials. We recently had a corvette done with bad results. The surface was pitted and blotched. Made for a bunch of extra work. This was done by an inexperienced operator and that may have contributed to the problem. There is chemical stripper for fiberglass, but I don't know how it might affect plastic.

[pobby_11]

I would try the bumper striper from your local body supply company see if that'll get it. worth a try, anyway if you decide to paint it for hard plastics the best way to do it is to start with red scotch brite with a scuffing compoud(its like a cleaner with pumice in it works great) I preffer Final sand seems to work the best. After that clean it up and wipe it down real good wiith some acetone (this will help knock down any silicone based product thats been on the dash. For best results I use PPG's system one choice adhesion premoter, and PPG's
K 38 Primer make sure its k 38 it has the highest solids and won't shrink back.
Now the fun part. prep with dx-103 (not a must but really helps knock down the static in the plastic) then wipe it down one more time with acetone and blow dry with compressed air. Tack it with a tack rag and your good to go. Now mist on a thin coat of one choice its real thin and just need enough to cover everything. let it flash off about 5 min. you'll know when just looking at it should look like it did before you sprayed it. Then your ready to prime. The k-38 is mixed 4:1 with k201 and you can and reducer to help it flow out to make it easier to sand. I would stay away from reducer for the first 3 coats (I go 5 coats, let it flash between coats so its dull) you want a lot of build so you can sand out the texture. I like it smooth (if you want te keep the tuxture one covering coat will work, let it dry overnight scuff and paint)if you like it smooth, guide coat it with some black spray paint sand it out with 400 you'll probably end up burning through its ok there's a lot of texture if you do burn through to the plastic just spot in a little one choice and re-prime the whole thing (this is where the reducer comes in really handy) I normally go about 2 cap fulls for every 8 oz it makes it lay out like a sealer really flat. sand that out with 400 (600 if you are shooting a pearl or metalic on it) then you can use whatever you want on top of that nason single stage would be the ceapest way out or you can base clear with ppg house of kolor matrix will work just remember you get what you pay for (I preffer hok or ppg its more expensive but the color holds out a lot longer with no fading and colors cover a lot faster) hope this helps you guys out it can really set your car apart and when done right can last 10 + years its not just some used car lot trick to sell something that'll come off next week lol good luck

[pobby_11]

also on a side no if you don't care about the texture and want it smooth you can sand the plastic (I've personally used 80 grit on plastic)
just take torch to it to melt the little hairs or a lighter if its just a small spot then apply Poly flex from evercoat sand it out with 80 then 100 then prime (nice thing about k-38 it will fill 80 grit scratches and not shrink.)