jegs powdercoated brake lines

[01somta]

Has anybody used the jeg's coated brake lines? I just thought it would be nice to have the workablity of the steel but the coating for protection. Let me know if you have used it or have any input.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63060/10002/-1

[CarlC]

Can a tight bend be made without damaging the coating?

What is the price of this vs. a stainless line?

[01somta]

Can a tight bend be made without damaging the coating?

What is the price of this vs. a stainless line?

I don't know, that is what I was wondering also. The price of the jeg's is $39.99 for 25'. How many feet would I need to do a 68 camaro with the wilwood setup.

[silver69camaro]

IMO I'd just use stainless. Powdercoated lines could be marred easily when flaring and bending, along with the potential of hiding cracks and other defects. Makes me nervous.

[Takid455]

I asked them about the PC line. they said it is as flexable as the tubing. with that comment, I order some stainless from speedway for $25 for 20'.

[01somta]

IMO I'd just use stainless. Powdercoated lines could be marred easily when flaring and bending, along with the potential of hiding cracks and other defects. Makes me nervous.

I have just been warned numerous times about how hard SS lines are to flare.

[silver69camaro]

I have just been warned numerous times about how hard SS lines are to flare.

I think it depends on the quality of tube and your flaring tool. The lines we use flare easily, although none of us here have cheap flaring tools.

[CarlC]

I agree with Matt. I flare stainless regularly in my garage with good results. A cheapo bender and flaring tool will sour your taste for stainless.

You also will not need to double-flare stainless for brake systems.

[jackfrost]

You also will not need to double-flare stainless for brake systems.

well that right there makes it a LOT simpler...

[01somta]

I agree with Matt. I flare stainless regularly in my garage with good results. A cheapo bender and flaring tool will sour your taste for stainless.

You also will not need to double-flare stainless for brake systems.

Can you give me a link to good SS line, GOOD flaring tool, and a GOOD bender. Also, what is the best way to cut it?

[01somta]

I agree with Matt. I flare stainless regularly in my garage with good results. A cheapo bender and flaring tool will sour your taste for stainless.

You also will not need to double-flare stainless for brake systems.

Ok, I did some searching and seen that in previous threads that you recommend the Imperial brand model listed below. What do you recommend for a bending tool? And will a cutoff wheel work to cut the line?
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7967

[CarlC]

Resonded to your PM.

A cutoff wheel or hacksaw work best. Tubing cutters work harden the tube and it becomes susceptible to cracking during flaring. Chamfer the bore and OD before flaring.

[vp23271]

This is a good post! I am looking to pick up a flaring tool too and have seen different models at different prices. Is the link to the tool in the prior post a good model?
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=7967
Anyone using a tool/brand that they would recommend?

[CarlC]

Info I posted a while back.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30327&highlight=imperial

[vp23271]

CarlC, Thanks!

[6t9 337]

This might be a newbee question, but why not use pre-bent lines? Is it a packaging issue - or a combination of using non-factory parts mandates bending your own?

[01somta]

This might be a newbee question, but why not use pre-bent lines? Is it a packaging issue - or a combination of using non-factory parts mandates bending your own?

The pre-bent is for stock setups, I am running the wilwood disc with wilwood 7/8" master cylinder.

[megaladon6]

if you are willing to spend $100 for a manual flare tool, check out this... http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAS-71475.html it does metric, standard, double, bubble, and fuel lines. it's especially nice when doing the lines on the car.

[brn agn]

if you are willing to spend $100 for a manual flare tool, check out this... http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAS-71475.html it does metric, standard, double, bubble, and fuel lines. it's especially nice when doing the lines on the car.

That is the tool that I used on my car. I ran all new brakes lines and it made the job EASY. I've already found multiple uses for it, including bubble flaring vacuum lines to help with retaining rubber hose and giving it a "finished" look.

[CarlC]

If you are planning on AN flares confirm that it has a 37* tool.

[silver69camaro]

if you are willing to spend $100 for a manual flare tool, check out this... http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAS-71475.html it does metric, standard, double, bubble, and fuel lines. it's especially nice when doing the lines on the car.

That is the tool that I use as well. Well worth the cost. Perfect flare every time with no effort or swearing.

[John McIntire]

man that thing is expensive, I thought it was only $100 bucks! Does it work that well?

And also, why is it that you only need to single flare Stainless? I've always doubled it, but its pretty hard!

[86Cutlass383SR]

If I understand correctly, since Stainless is so strong it won't split like the softer steel tubing. The regular is weaker and that's the reason it needs to be double flared, so it won't split.

Doug

[CarlC]

Stainless is susceptable to cracking when double-flaring. No need to double flare stainless for -6 and smaller.

Stainless is harder than soft steel/Bundy tubing.

[silver69camaro]

man that thing is expensive, I thought it was only $100 bucks! Does it work that well?



Yes it does. But, good tools cost big coin and are always worth it in the long run. This is a tool you will keep for years and years.

It's also the tool all your friends will want to borrow, too! Just make sure you get it back.

[brn agn]

Yes it does. But, good tools cost big coin and are always worth it in the long run. This is a tool you will keep for years and years.

It's also the tool all your friends will want to borrow, too! Just make sure you get it back.

I agree with everything that sliver69camaro has said. This is a great example of "you get what you pay for". I used it for every hard line on my car and I have had no problems with any of the flares I made. It makes the process fast and accurate.

[John McIntire]

has anyone seen or used that brake flaring tool in the eastwood catalog? The one that mounts in the vise and has a "turret" with all the different flares on it? It looked interesting to me. I've seen it in Super Rod Magazine and also in the same article was the one that everyone here is raving about. That one makes some nice flares, along with some other neat tricks.
Just curious.

Also, why do you only need to flare stainless once? What degree, 37, 45? Also in that same article they showed the copper crush washers that you can slide on before you flare and they will conform to the shape when tightened down over the flare. Anyone use them?