1967 Camaro project updates

[nicks67camaro]

Okay, I already have a bunch done on the car but I figure post a project thread. Sooooo......Plans are as follows. Budget will control the time line.

1 DSE Mini Tub (underway)
2 Misc sheet metel work
3 S&W 8point cage (next)
4 New rims and tires (April/May)
5 C5/6 brake upgrade (wife willing)
6 tko 600 (date TBD)
7 superchager......

Lets show some current pictures

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More to follow......

[jackfrost]

holy huge pictures...

try resizing them down to 800 pixels wide or so.

[nicks67camaro]

yeah I'm trying to get the hand of the camera. I was kinda in a rush

[nicks67camaro]

I have the driver side mock in...

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Still need to do some metal work on the Passanger side

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[Part Time]

Looking good!

They are an insane amount of work to install but well worth the trouble.

[nicks67camaro]

Looking good!

They are an insane amount of work to install but well worth the trouble.

Thanks! I have been putting this off long enough. I mocked the old 16x8 in the wheel well and got a good laugh....

[nicks67camaro]

I've been taking my time to get the rust out of the wheel house and the quarters. Here is some progress. I hope to get my welder back and start the frame plates.

Both sides are mocked in
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wheel house has some dead metel cut out
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****Mods Can the first pictures posted be resized down/deleted to change the view****

Thanks

[nicks67camaro]

Some progress...I have the car cut to where the tubs will go in with no issues. My old rust is out of the quarters. Next steps will be to get the outer wheel house patches welded in and then weld the tubs in. Some more pics...

Here is what the opening looks like all cut away
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Need to put in some patches old rust is 95% out
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There was still a lot of good metel I wanted to maintain as much as possible
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[awr68]

Great progress! But at this point wouldn't it be better to replace the outer fender wells and just patch the quarters? The outers don't cost that much and it would take far less work and be better in the end.

[nicks67camaro]

I just figure the least amout of body work the better. Also the rest of the paint is very nice and I wanted to make the least amount of blending.

[awr68]

Yeah but my point is that you are a few spot welds away from the whole outer hitting the ground...on the pass side anyways. If you want less work and blending then replacing full inner and outers is the way to go. Now if you just have a little spot repair on the quarters then that's a whole differant story.

[nicks67camaro]

Thats a good point. I'll admit this is my first venture with body work and I am not afraid I just not sure what the "best practives" are I have the full wheel house replacement I may just drop it out and have then patch the outer.

[awr68]

just trying to help as I've been down this road before. :)

[Sparky67]

Thats a good point. I'll admit this is my first venture with body work and I am not afraid I just not sure what the "best practives" are I have the full wheel house replacement I may just drop it out and have then patch the outer.

Typically, rust forms on the inside of the quarter panel. You might only see it on the outside, but really it is farther up inside on the quarter panel. Typically, you would replace the full quarter panel. When you replace full quarter panels, then you replace the outer wheel wells too.

Jeff

http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

[aray327]

I am considering mini tubs on my 69 camaro. I just read an article in car craft that said the install time is 40-50 hours. How much time would you say you have in the install? Are you going to narrow the rear end after you finish the tubs?

[nicks67camaro]

So far I would say 20-25 hours I am taking my time and also dealing with rot in my quarters. I don't think I'm going to narrow the rear I think I'll just going to adjust the back space on the wheels I'm going to get (budget constraints)

[nicks67camaro]

The wheel house is in. Still need fit and finish work.
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from the truck sorry little dark
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more updates to come I am leaving for Las Vegas sunday.....maybe I'll come back with some extra car funds.......

[dowierj]

I Ordered the mini-tub kit from dse recently and in one of your pictures I see, or think I see the frame rail cut into...is that manditory to notch the frame there? Also somewhere i read about having to modify the rear seat? is that true?

[dowierj]

and do you have to change to spring perch on the diff? cuz in my head if you move the springs inward, you would need to cut and weld in the brackets in a diffrent location on the diff, right?

[Sparky67]

I Ordered the mini-tub kit from dse recently and in one of your pictures I see, or think I see the frame rail cut into...is that manditory to notch the frame there? Also somewhere i read about having to modify the rear seat? is that true?


Yes to both questions.

Jeff

http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

[grump]

Nice job. Can't wait to see it done.

[nicks67camaro]

Nice job. Can't wait to see it done.

Thanks!

I just got back from Las Vegas on thursday...... I wanted to come back with a little more money but we had fun I'm tired as hell and the wife has the flu....I did some welding this weekend I still need to do more metal prep and cut out the frame close off brackets...I'll try to get some pics....

[nicks67camaro]

Didn't have as much time to work on the car. Father in law had a heart attack (2 major and 3 minor blockages) Had to travel to Wisconsin for work. but I got some stuff done....

Frame plates are in
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all the spot weld points are drilled
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I am waiting on my butt weld clamps and I'll get my panels in place to be continued.....

[nicks67camaro]

Passanger side is about almost done.... I also have the cage painted I hope to have more updates this weekend....

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[nicks67camaro]

I've made good progress finally.....
Tubs are in
Seam Sealed

Truck needs one more coat
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Cage is in
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I have some stuff from Second Skin that will go in next

Finally I'll get the interior back in and start to save for Bigger rims/tires and Paint.

[nicks67camaro]

so the interior is in cage is done. drove it around the block went to adust the ride height I put one turn on the coil over and blah it started to leak out the top. THe shocks are varishock and I have read about problems with these. Sooo tomorrow I will call the company I that sold them to me and find out what the deal is.


Cage and interior ( I will be adding sfi rated padding)
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Hard to see but I have a225 55 16 16x8 4.5 bs I could 4.5 more inches time for more tire/rims

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[nicks67camaro]

I have done not major upgrades since the cage / tubs I purchased some stuff for the house (wood boiler for this winter and 24ft of 7inch double wall stainless class A pipe (wicked expensive) the consumed all my car cash but the system will pay break even in 2 years of heating. On a car note.

Well I went to the Dyno today and I was happy there is more power I know it. I need to tune the crap out of it. I have some wear in the polymer Distributor Gear and I think the timing may have been off (just a little) I have new plugs and wires and the carb may need a little jetting work.But here are the results..... The UNADJUSTED HP number is 421 WHP. Here is the adjusted graph.

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[Motown 454]

Nice should be fun to drive.Wayne

[nicks67camaro]

Yeah its a blast.The motor loves the RPM's as you can tell. I was the only naturally aspirated car there so hopefully by next year I'll have the blower.

[nicks67camaro]

I put in a wood boiler and new class A flue. The car funds went here.

Wood boiler (ties into the oil boiler) $3,000.00 will support the entire house on wood up to 5 hours between fillings. (could be improved with better window/insulation ect.

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Wood pile is more than half gone butthe guy up the street from me owns a tree service so I get my wood in 8'to12' lenghts then I log, split and stack.

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finally the 24' class A double wall stainless pipe $1,200 this is the cost from a HVAC friend and is a very good price. Hammer drill through the foundation and up it went.

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I paid around $700 for plumbing from boiler to boiler and some plumbing work. Probably close to $5,000 all said and done but will pay for it self over time. I have used less than 30 gallons of oil over the last 8 weeks and it has been a cold winter here is CT.

The next big step is getting the body work completed (recent cheater quarter done) and a new paint combo.

[nicks67camaro]

So.... Last yeat I did the mini tubs / Cage / replace some rusty parts of the quarters. At last I have funds to have the car painted. This is being done by a freind who works for a body shop.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/i4g74h-1.jpg

[nicks67camaro]

And the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/2vxrmme-1.jpg

I have the color worked out and I am excited. It will be two tone. Thats all i'll say for now.

OH and I have new rims tires and hopefully a couple other nice things..

Stay tuned.....

[nicks67camaro]

Well its been 7 weeks and the car just got back from my buddies shop..Couldn't be happier.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/1j50k1-1.jpg

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(rims look way better in person with more light.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/2a50zky-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/xrhc-1.jpg

[nicks67camaro]

I went to my grandfathers to use his Lathe and turn my hub OD to less than 6 inches (for C5/C6 slip on rotor). This isn't a cool trick part but probably some of the best hours spent. My grandfather is an old school Machinist and worked for Remington Arms fixing the machinery that make bullets. We used the Lathe to turn the OD down. Really neat to see him go at it. We fist needed to center the hub on the lathe we used a dial indicator to tell us how high and low the hub was. By loosening and tightening the surrounding clamps we moved the hub to center. He then used the same method on the front face of the but to make sure there was no wobble to it. He then dug into a couple hundred carbide bits (from 37 years of collecting them on the job) and found one that was good and sharp. He then slowly turned the first one down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/sw72qa-1.jpg

With being really busy it was nice to spend the day with him and take in his knowledge.

[nicks67camaro]

heres a better pic of the paint

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/2afacuh-1.jpg

[yamadog]

I think the Smokey Yunick paint job (even if it's not the exact same colors) is by far the best paint scheme for a first gen EVER....Great job.

[nicks67camaro]

I think the Smokey Yunick paint job (even if it's not the exact same colors) is by far the best paint scheme for a first gen EVER....Great job.

Thanks!!!!! Trying to get the car washed this weekend then willl try to get some good pictures.

[nicks67camaro]

here's one in the shade to see how much darker it gets

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/2mwxmr4-1.jpg

[nicks67camaro]

For the love of god it is back on the road.

After the t56 and 4.10 went in I had developed a horrible vibration. After messing with the pinion angle, 2 driveshafts, and rechecking the tranmission it turned out to be the trans mount.

Itstarted like this
Installed the transmission and I had a bad 2nd gear syncro so the trans came out for a rebuild

Then I had the original driveshaft shortened and the shop cut it to short and left a ton of play in the Universal. I thought this was the source of my vibration so ordered a denny's driveshaft and it was still there. After beating my head against the wall for a while I started to eliminate things. It was the F^(%!#& trans mount. For some reason it was not working with the solid body mount and the rest of the car.

Between waiting betweek paychecks, parts, repairs, diagnosis, and install time It took over 3 months to get it back on the road.

Just in time for a nice Connecticut winter........

Oh and the 30 pound flywheel needs to go now....

[nicks67camaro]

Well i was never a fan of the chrome rims so i decided to paint them jet black. I am happy with them overall. I was testing a new spay gun and it was total junk.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/2u8dqqa-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/258ts8m-1.jpg

Also I added my home made splitter and is overall really happy with it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/2eg5nw7-1.jpg

[bhcustomdesigns]

Man the splitter and the black wheels look great!

[bonecrrusher]

Those wheels look familiar!

Love blacked out z06 wheels!

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/2u8dqqa-1.jpg

This looks fuggin awesome!.. like a smokey yunik street fighter type deal..

love the fact you made the chinspoiler!

[nicks67camaro]

Thanks for the comments guys. I need to address the tire profile they are a touch low for my liking but that's easy!

Thanks Mr.V that is the style i was going for. The car was an original gold car i think the 2 tone helped a bunch. Especially since the rear quarters and the door needed some metal work it was an easy decision.

[grenade inspector]

I like the paint, it looks real mean. what did you make the splitter out of?

[SSable]

looking good! like the paint combo.

[nicks67camaro]

here is some info on the splitter
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?79087-Home-made-splitter-project-begins!&highlight=

[Dobster]

Nice work.
Keep at it...

[nicks67camaro]

Ok lets get caught up 2 years on this next round of posts.

I'm going to move the car into a new direction. Less "race" more "street". I want to use the car more with my family and the roll cage / no A/C and no rear seat don't help with that. I also need to do routine maintenance to the 409 and when adding the upgrades i wanted to do i came to the why bother scenario. SO.......Here is the plan.

SpeedTech Pro Touring subframe
SpeedTech LS Swap Components (Mounts, T56 Tunnel, Clutch, Oil Pan, Headers)
PSI Harness
Vintage Air
DSE Subframe connectors and firewall fill plate
AAW Classic Update
Griffin LS Radiator
Afco Heat Exchanger
RestoMod tank Duel Pump with corner pickups
Clean and paint misc small parts under the hood

Oh and of course LS swap.

First Purchase is in LSA
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/jijio4-1.jpg

Part of the project was to create more room in the Garage. I have a fairly wide 2 car that is under the house. It is insulated and has easy access to the 200 amp panel. Some minor upgrades to the garage space are 100amp sub panel, 240v heater, and Pushing my 8' wide bench back 40". This makes the bench recessed into the basement more.

Original Studs
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2drsaqf-1.jpg

Recess made
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/ixumhc-1.jpg

Front of the car work area
[IMG]http://i68.t

[nicks67camaro]

Front down to the subframe
Firewall is free of all components
Wiring is out

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/b9is07-1.jpg

I hate seam sealer
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/orpmif-1.jpg

and found this.....I think the ebrake some how stressed the this area and it cracked all the way to the fuse block opening?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2ry3dra-1.jpg

Been busy selling old parts and buying one ones:

Parts in so far:
Vintage air with low mount ac bracket
Mcleod RST twin disc with flywheel
Ridetech Front coilovers
Speedtech upper and lower control arms

On order but not arrived
Speedtech subframe
trans tunnel cover
speed tech firewall clutch assembly
speed tech down bars

Still need to order
Mast Oil Pan
Cooling system (Engine / SC Heat Exchanger)
Fuel System
T56 Magnum

My radiator support / Inner Fenders / hood latch support and hinge assmebly / head light buckets are all blasted and ready for my paint guy to spray.

MORE RUST

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2cckuj6-1.jpg

Seam Sealer nearly removed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2hxob50-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Getting some painted parts back! Need to get time to finish the firewall and subframe connectors

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2e4z345-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2nlads3-1.jpg

Firewall fill plate just about in. Need to finish some bottom a little but its just about done.

Tack
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ground down

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2mdj47d-1.jpg

up next Sub frame connectors and Engine mock up and frame down bar installation!

Got some stuff done.

DSE subframe connectors are in
Down bars are in. I decided to weld them in with a removable tube adapter and the plates welded to the firewall. I have some clean up to do still. Next is to finish the trans tunnel with the speedtech cover then power wash / steam the underside and get the whole thing ready for undercoating and firewall paint.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/down20bar2021_zps8bu6xho9-1.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/nicks67camaro/media/down%20bar%2021_zps8bu6xho9.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/15yam1s-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/down20bar20installed1_zpskvtt00ws-1.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/nicks67camaro/media/down%20bar%20installed1_zpskvtt00ws.jpg.html)

Engine Mockup:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/engine20mock20up_zps5w9vkign-1.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/nicks67camaro/media/engine%20mock%20up_zps5w9vkign.jpg.html)

The Good
Mast Oil Pan fits nice
The engine fits
the steering rack clears the pan and rack.

The not so good:

The crank pulley will interfere with the crossmember when i use the over drive LSA Pulley. The alternator is also very close. I will make pockets to fit these better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/crank20pulley_zpslvcwubj4-1.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/nicks67camaro/media/crank%20pulley_zpslvcwubj4.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/alternator_zpsidufaxua-1.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/nicks67camaro/media/alternator_zpsidufaxua.jpg.html)

I need to verify the Dirty Dingo low mount A/C will fit and then I can begin modification on the frame.

- - - Updated - - -

I will need to make some room for the dirty dingo low mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/2lm5s8x-1.jpg

I barely can get the belt on

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/ippke8-1.jpg

Good alignment


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2ng935z-1.jpg

made 2 of the 3 pockets. For the supercharger pulley clearance i wanted to keep in tack as much of the cross member as possible. Still need to do some finish grinding and make the alternator pocket but all in all i'm happy with it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/1hc803-1.jpg

These are the best pictures of the interference I have. you can see there are 2 spots that come really close to the frame. It was so close that i could just barely slip on the belt onto the pulley. You can see the blue outline. I cut the 2 lines (one not shown in front of the pulley) going to the bottom of the frame and cut along the bottom just above the welds. I then used a hammer and punch to evenly move the metal back to make a pocket. I then welded it all up and ground everything smooth. I just looks like a soft pocket with smooth transitions. I'll take better pictures when i do the alternator side tomorrow. I think there may have been just enough room on the alternator side but since I got a good process i'll just make it to match the A/C side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2nsnrrk-1.jpg

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- - - Updated - - -

Some better shots of how I made the pocket. There maybe better ways but this works for me.

Initial slices and pushed in

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2vbk313-1.jpg

Welded up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/23j0k93-1.jpg

Ground down

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/29l1mrb-1.jpg

[nicks67camaro]

I've been sanding a lot on the frame and firewall getting it ready to paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/j66g68-1.jpg

Then i started to clean the rubberized gunk off the bottom with the plan to reapply a rubberized undercoating. Well after looking at Curtis and his nice raptor liner underside I took out my sand blaster and started hitting the trans tunnel when the gunk came off pretty easy it was all down hill from there.

I wrapped the whole thing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/9a4l52-1.jpg

Then started blasting.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/24q641z-1.jpg

I then started picking the last of the old seam sealer off the cowl/firewall area and found some stuff festering. This will be cleaned the best I can then my paint guy will take care of the rest.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2jdkvt3-1.jpg

I also scored a low mileage close ratio t56 Magnum!

Next up
Retro Fit 2011 Impreza rear seat (i hope this works)
LSA heads off to be CNC'd
Cam / Pulley swap on the LSA

- - - Updated - - -

As part of the effort to make the car more usable I wanted a rear seat that was more modern. This is a 2011 impreza cloth rear seat assembly. I was able to retain most of the mounting hardware with some modification. They also fold down. Here are a couple pics.

Upper section was by far the most time consuming. The main rod that allows the seat to fold needed to be shortened about 1.5" per side. I then drilled and pins the ends like subaru did to allow for the slotted bracket to fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/143eqc-1.jpg

The lower section was easier. It was a basic wire frame with padding. After some manipulation i was able to get about where i wanted it. I still need to add a small platform and filler foam to help level it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/hupobr-1.jpg

The contour is pretty good by the tub

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/4kcxlh-1.jpg

After spending what felt like an eternity on back sandblasting under the car the weather and my schedule were in agreement to spray the car with Raptor Liner.

I used the entire Upol line of Products:
1. 2002 Panel Wipe
2. Acid 8 Etching primer (no sanding needed)
3. Adhesion promoter (I'll use for touch up hard spots)
4. Raptor liner black
5. Adjustable gun sold separately (better than the supplied one)
6. Upol seam sealer - Probably my least favorite product used i feel like the 3m fast and firm stuff spreads better. I used it since it was all made to work together

I am really happy with it. If you want a finer texture you must buy the other gun. I am so glad I did. I have one or two spots that need a touch up but it came out better than i thought. I'm glad I took the extra time to do this.

Primer - The trans tunnel is ugly not my best work but its welded good, clean, and functional.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2vcvok9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/1z2m6ac-1.jpg

Raptor liner sprayed the transition from the firewall will get cleaned up when my body guy does the firewall in black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/rvegxv-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/24qu9mh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/etxllc-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Well its been a while since my last update but progress is made. In the quest for power i wanted to make sure not one component was over powering another. Typical builds with LSA are big pulley and cam. While that is still the plan all that extra boost and cam won't do any good unless it get in and out head easier. So.....FED did their stage 2 cnc work with Manley stainless 2.180″/1.600″ intake and exhaust valve combination. This also includes their PAC spring kit. Cam will likely be BTR stage 3. My goal is 750-800 crank which seams pretty attainable without over boosting the crap out supercharger. The blower case and snout will be enlarged like most builds to help air flow. Car should be delivered this week to my paint guy to finish the firewall and frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2s8guf4-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/vjo6b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/r9hml3-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/34hdm51-1.jpg




Full Head Detail here
https://frankensteined.net/shop/gm-ls3-stage-2-fed-heads-5364821823lsals9/

Firewall is all set. It never looked this good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/25a1zl2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/99q7g7-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/16k40eo-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/ver70w-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Cam Swap done, mast pan is on, ATI damper is on, supercharger case is getting ported.

Once the case is back i can put the rest of the engine together.

Clean everything. The Mast pan had remnants of the sand from casting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2hi88b8-1.jpg

drilled and taped for a 1/2npt to 12an for blower lid

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2ighq3t-1.jpg

Blower machining - This will help it breathe!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/21l0l90-1.jpg

Cleaned, Sanded, and Repainted the interior black.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/jrslxv-1.jpg

Assembled the heads, supercharger, and painted it. I left the Frankenstien logo visible
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/ioq4d3-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/07/ff4g7k-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/21euxib-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

been moving forward....I have been wiring the car. I wanted everything loomed and clean and accessible.

Engine in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/33mob9k-1.jpg

I used a C&R universal radiator with oil cooler. I made my own mounting bracket and running a spal fan with DCC PWM fan control.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/118g3k1-1.jpg

need to move around some wires but here are some of the looms everything is wrapped, taped, i used a combination of zip ties and plastic ring clamps that attached into bolt holes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/6eoqkn-1.jpg

I have the VA condenser in. I will need to modify the hood latch and support to clear the supercharger hx. The ac dryer will need to be moved as well. I will also tape the core off and paint the sides and tab black. then lightly paint the core to help black it out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/r8z79f-1.jpg

Whats next:
Rock Valley / Vaporworx fuel setup
Ubuild it Air Raid intake
Test fire.

[CarlC]

Nice work moving forward Nick.

Along with the other engine work a set of injectors will likely be needed. The OEM injectors won't handle much more than stock horsepower.

[nicks67camaro]

Thanks Carl! I've got a set of DW950cc injectors already installed. I'm installing my BEAUTIFUL Vaporworx controller soon!

[ryeguy2006a]

Wow, this car has gone through quite the transformation! Nicely done.

[nicks67camaro]

Wow, this car has gone through quite the transformation! Nicely done.

Thanks! Its been a ton or work but starting to come together.

[nicks67camaro]

Upgrade the CTS-V pump to AEM pumps. Installed on my Rock valley tank.
Still need to wire in the VaporWorx controller.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2hefsk6-1.jpg

Needed to clean up the trunk
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/zno4nr-1.jpg

Painted the HX and mounted it. Had to move around the A/C Lines to clear it.
[IMG]http://i6

[Gmc427]

hi, not sure if you still have the dash out but if you do are you able to post/pm me pictures of the bottom of the opening where the colunm support rods pass though from on top and from under ? regards george

[nicks67camaro]

hi, not sure if you still have the dash out but if you do are you able to post/pm me pictures of the bottom of the opening where the colunm support rods pass though from on top and from under ? regards george

I'll try to get some taken tonight.

[nicks67camaro]

https://youtu.be/HT96bRAi744Its Alive!

It have some bugs to work out. I have a MAF code (P0102) and my oil pressure and tach aren't reading. I have another clip but there is too much swearing in it from excitement!

[Buryingthesun]

Cool car! Maybe Ill see you around sometime (also from CT)

[nicks67camaro]

Thanks! The Goal is to drive this more!

[nicks67camaro]

Wow its been a while since I updated this.........

Had a great dyno session at Pro Edge Tuning in CT. They far exceeded my expectations.

Final numbers rear wheel 658 HP 575 TQ @ 7000

Dyno The smoke was from the exhaust that had loaded up due to a terrible first tune. It was so rich because the mail in tune was botched!


https://youtu.be/7h87IJhUwwk

Drive By (Tires are not holding)

https://youtu.be/IFeFqlc_nCI


Still lots of small things to do but its moving in the right direction