deck lid to quarter gap dimension...

[minendrews68]

After replacing the quarters and rear panel, panel just under the rear window, I am trying to get the gap of the deck lid to the quarters. Does anyone know what the dimension is? I'm coming up with about 1/4" this seems a little big to me but the rear tail light panel and the panel below the rear window won't let the quarters come in any closer. The deck lid is new, and I put the old original back on and it's about the same, any suggestions? Thanks

[toxicz28]

Most like to keep panel gaps at about 3/16". If you're at 1/4" that's not too bad. 1/16" = .0625"

[projectPONY]

most aftermarket parts have some differences and most likely nothing will fit exactly as you would like. you'll just have to live with it or make it work for you. what you could do is build up the edges on you deck lid to close the gap up a little. one way you could do this is by welding a steel rod, about 1/8" or 3/16" thick, all the way around the perimeter of the deck lid. you will have to take your time as to not warp the deck lid. I've heard that it has been done with break line also but I've never tried it like that. once that is done, a little grinding, sanding, filler work, and no one will ever notice what you've done.

good luck

[63SW]

I just finished replacing rear 1/4s on a 69 and had the same issues...

had a good 1/4" gap on both sides.

the steel rod sounds good and i wish i had thought about it - I might have gone that way but i just ended up welding the sides of the deck lid ( SLOWLY & FROM SIDE to SIDE so i wouldnt warp it ) till i built up enough weld to close the gap ( aprox. 3 rows of weld ), Then ground it down for a even fit .

For someone looking close , it can be seen from the underside of the deck lid , ONLY because the Fold over underneath is slightly wider when done..

Its time consuming but i was happy with the end result !

[68sixspeed]

I'm noticing the same thing on my 69; they guy who painted my 68 had the same issue on a 68 he rebodied about a year ago- we think it is at least partially in the aftermarket trunk lids. I did some quick measurements between my 68's original trunk lid and the goodmark replacement one on the '69 and the original is a bit wider (1/16-3/32); the rest must be in the quarter panels.

There are some new usa made trunk lids available, they aren't cheap, but if they save labor they'd be worth it- anyone try one yet?

[63SW]

I have done a number of these and the problem doesnt seem to be in the deck lids nearly as much as it is in the rear 1/4s ...

the passengers rear 1/4s seem to be the worst .
the latest set was a better fit than the last so maybe they made a adjustment in the tooling for some of the aftermarket parts...

I have another set of full 1/4s to put on as soon as i start the Hugger orange 69 i bought .

If you look , you can notice a bow in the stamping of the rears where the decklid lines up...Look at the back of the rear 1/4 up to where it curves around to the window panel...

if you measure it , NOT CONSISTANT AT ALL ... THATS REPOP FOR YA.

[minendrews68]

Thanks guys for the info. It looks like if I can't live with the gap your ideas of welding up the deck lid is the only alternative. Appreciate the help though..

[ahowudoin]

If you look , you can notice a bow in the stamping of the rears where the decklid lines up...Look at the back of the rear 1/4 up to where it curves around to the window panel...

Would it be easier to put a slice in the quarter and spread it to get rid of the bow and weld it back up?

[redfire69]

I have done a number of these and the problem doesnt seem to be in the deck lids nearly as much as it is in the rear 1/4s ...

the passengers rear 1/4s seem to be the worst .
the latest set was a better fit than the last so maybe they made a adjustment in the tooling for some of the aftermarket parts...

I have another set of full 1/4s to put on as soon as i start the Hugger orange 69 i bought .

If you look , you can notice a bow in the stamping of the rears where the decklid lines up...Look at the back of the rear 1/4 up to where it curves around to the window panel...

if you measure it , NOT CONSISTANT AT ALL ... THATS REPOP FOR YA.

I have the EXACT same problem on my 69. It does seem to be the pass 1/4. If you search for threads like this here and at lateral-g, you will find many with the same problem. Some add onto the decklid while others slice the quarter and move the channel.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet as I have to move my pass side up 3/8 of an inch to be perfectly level. Its like three months of fitting to do five minutes of welding!!!

[63SW]

REDFIRE69 .. NICE SHOT AND PERFECT EXAMPLE !

The fist time i had this problem , ( IT WAS A PASS SIDE 1/4) i did split the 1/4 from the rear all the way up to the curve and put a pie slice in....CAME OUT OK , but

(((((((( I WONT DO THAT AGAIN !!! )))))))))
Heres why , and dont get me wrong , that method has its palces but this wasnt the place in my opinion.

Splitting the 1/4 means adding in a pie shaped piece --- that means you have 2 rows of weld to clean up and a LOT better chance of warping .
You also have a hard time getting the under side cleaned up because of location and angle ...

WITH ADDING TO THE DECKLID -- you have the ability to remove it from the car and do a real nice job cleaning the top and BOTTOM.
you can do it with almost no warping at all because of the location - ON THE END OF A PANEL AND A FOLDED EDGE !

Dont get me wrong - YOU STILL NEED TO TAKE YOUR TIME AND 5 MINUTES OF WELDING WONT DO IT - YOU CAN WARP THE DECK LID...

but if you do get a slight warp in a spot or two , IT'S REAL EASY TO GET A DOLLY ON EITHER SIDE AND HAMMER & PICK IT BACK !


HERE IS ANOTHER OPTION _ IF YOU HAVE A nice 1/8th in gap on the DR SIDE , and 1/4 " gap on the pass , ADJUST THE DECK LID OVER FOR A EVEN 3/16 GAP ON BOTH ...NO WELDING REQUIRED...

the only thing here is that you may have a tighter gap at the top of the decklid and then it may open up a little more comming around the curved corners and then a even gap on the sides.

ALL DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU FIND ACCEPTABLE !

Heres a couple shots of my convert project ... I use the repop panels a lot and theres always work to do to get a nice fit...
I DONT LIKE THE DII or DYNACORN or what ever they call it...I JUST CALL IT CRAP.

But the parts i get direct from GOODMARK which is mostly golden legion seems to fit a lot better.

I just finished my 70 Chevelle and one fender i got Direct from goodmark - GOLDEN LEGION ( EXCELLENT FIT WITH ONLY VERY MINOR WORK ) , and the other from Ausley's Chevelle - Dyna corn DII ... WHAT A PIECE OF SH*T ... even with all the years i have been doing this , I COULDNT MAKE IT WORK and after sending 30 seperate pictures directly to AUSLEY'S , THEY TOO SAW THE QUALITY AND REFUNDED MY MONEY ....AND THEY DIDNT EVEN WANT THE 1/4 BACK ...
it sits in my garage colleting dust --MIGHT BE GOOD FOR A DEMO CAR..

POINT BEING , THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN PARTS ... GM is always a plus , but some aftermarkets are DEFINATLY better than others.

[redfire69]

Hey 63SW,

Thanks for the info. I'm hoping to gain a little by making my height adjustments (pass is 3/8 too low). I may be able to move the deck lid over to pass but I will have clearance issues at the top corner as you noted. Right now its all the way to the pass, so I will have to ream the hinge holes out a little.

I'm not too keen on slicing the quarter so I may add to the decklid or see if I can get the adjustment into the 3/16s which I can live with... I guess I'll be practicing my welding skills!

BTW, nice vert!

[Ricoch3T]

Do yall do anything to keep the line straight or just eye ball it? I didn't know if I could make a straight edge to follow or anything to help.

I've welded 1/8" rod to the decklid which closed it up too far. The plan was to grind to finish. I was trying to figure out a way I could keep it straight other than they good ol eye ball approach

[redfire69]

I'm no expert but I've seen alot of folks use something that is the thickness they want to achieve for the gap, and then "run" that through the gap and mark where they need to add or take away.... like a paint stir stick (3/16")...

[63SW]

I find the best way is to lay down a tape line ...

AFTER YOU HAVE WELDE THE DECK LID , lay down a tape line , ( i use 3/4" ) Start at the top corner where its rounded and if you have a good eye , Just lay down a desired gap

use the outside of the line to give you a guide of how much to grind off.

Grind right up to the tape edge...

HERES A SHOT !

[minendrews68]

I find the best way is to lay down a tape line ...

AFTER YOU HAVE WELDE THE DECK LID , lay down a tape line , ( i use 3/4" ) Start at the top corner where its rounded and if you have a good eye , Just lay down a desired gap

use the outside of the line to give you a guide of how much to grind off.

Grind right up to the tape edge...

HERES A SHOT !

A problem I see with this is, you'll have to remember that the top of the deck lid is just like doors it is a skin and if you grind any more than the thickness of the sheet metal you've actually got a hole there.

[ahowudoin]

If your quarter has a bow in it, It will still be there if you add to the decklid.

[63SW]

A problem I see with this is, you'll have to remember that the top of the deck lid is just like doors it is a skin and if you grind any more than the thickness of the sheet metal you've actually got a hole there.


And thats where the welder would come in handy again .

But if you cut the rear 1/4 and pie slice it ... DONT YOU HAVE A BIG HOLE TO FILL ?

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As far as the Bow in the rear 1/4 , It is FAR less noticable once the gap is evened out .
You can always go up and cut a small 1" slice in the 1/4 area where it starts to make the bow and hammer that that to create a constant curve , then weld that spot up....

Either way , its still a cleaner way rather than cutting the slice the whole length of the 1/4 edge...

Like i said , Ive done both and thats just the way i prefer to do it...

Everyone has THEIR own way and just because its a different way , doesnt make it better or worse.
Thats why i look around at different shops and fabricators , trying to pick up some new ideas and better ways of doing things.