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View Full Version : How to install body mounts?



CHRIS67
01-31-2008, 09:34 AM
Hi Guys, I'm looking into installing new body mounts on my 67 Camaro, but I really don't know what all is involved. I was looking at Global West's Interloc, or polyurethane to replace the cracked marshmallows that I have today. I'm trying to decide if this is something that is a DIY project or if I should bring it to a garage. Advice?

67'camaroG
01-31-2008, 09:51 AM
I have done it before. I didn't find it too difficult to do,Although i did not have any front sheetmetal mounted when i did it. just make sure you torque them down to spec.I don't know if this is the right way but this is how i did it. I unbolted one side and jacked the body up off the frame enough to remove and replace the bushings,bolted them down, then i did the same for the opposite side. The only thing that sucked with mine was the welded thread on the front body mount broke loose, it was a pain, but if nothing like that happens you shouldn't have a problem.

neki67
01-31-2008, 11:48 AM
Global West's include a detailed installation plan. Only thing you need besides hand tools is a jack, pref. hydraulic but not a necessity. You're done within an hour (at least I was).

70bird
01-31-2008, 02:34 PM
It's either going to be real easy, or a major PITA.
If any of the body bolts are corroded and frozen.the captured nuts in the body, under the floor pan can break loose from the sheet metal. So if they don't come out with a 14" breaker bar and average arm strenghth, stop and figure out a way to get some kind of penetrating liquid rust dissolver on the threads, let it soak and re-apply a couple more times and wait overnight before you try again.
It may be neccesary to grind away the rubber bushing from between the body and subframe to do this, but it's worth the effort. (if it works) You don't want these nuts to break loose! I had this happen to my 70 (used my foot on the b/bar to break it loose) and I ended up having to cut a small square out of the floor pan to access the nut. Not the end of the world, but a lot of extra work with having to cut and patch the floor.
If the car is still assembled with fenders and all you probably won't need to worry about the sub frame alignment if you do one side at a time, but you might want to measure from fixed points on the sub frame to firewall before you start and after you finish to be sure it is still square to the body, and has not shifted as this will affect your wheel and sheet metal alignment. Also, if the car is assembled, make sure your new bushings are close to the same the same height.

All that said, it's really a straight forward job anyone can do in their garage. Just know what you could be getting into.

Hope this helps, Mark

1969CamaroRS
01-31-2008, 02:59 PM
I had good luck with soaking the bolts with Zep Preserve over a couple days and then using a impact to break em loose (all of mine were really rusty and stuck).

Project69
01-31-2008, 04:24 PM
What 70bird said, its all about the bolts. I got mine finished in about 30 mins. Loosened all the bolts, then took out one side at a time. I used energy suspensions.

CHRIS67
01-31-2008, 05:24 PM
Thanks for the advice guys. I think my game plan will be to loosen all the bolts first and then do a side at a time. If I can free them all then I'm home free otherwise I'll drive it over to the garage and have the pros do it.

neki67
02-01-2008, 01:02 AM
I think my game plan will be to loosen all the bolts first and then do a side at a time. If I can free them all then I'm home free otherwise I'll drive it over to the garage and have the pros do it.

Good game plan. I forgot that not every car is as rust free after 40 years as mine. Sorry 'bout that.