What You Need for A Turbo Setup

[Young Gun]

I just thought it would be nice if some of the pro's here could list up the components for a turbo kit. Im starting to look for what ya need to do it and I figured I would ask here. So if some of you guys who know about turbos could just gimme a list of what I need that would be perfect. Thanks

Colin

[Peter Gaw]

I am definitely not a pro but I have learned what not to do. I would recommend a modern complete kit. I have learned that trying to piece a bunch of uncompatable parts leaves your wallet empty and your garage full.
The biggest improvement I made on trying to get my vintage 70's technology turbo kit to work was efi with computer controlled timing. Really woke it up.
That's why a lot of the old guys don't like turbos. They are never really right unless there is a computer involved. I understand now why they prefer to use a supercharger with a carb setup.
I was thinking about it and with what I have spent on tuning, parts components that don't work I could have probably built a really strong big block.
I just want a setup nobody else has. It's a hobby and I still enjoy it.

[DeltaT]

I also recommend getting Corky Bell's book 'Maximum Boost'. It will answer a lot of questions and help you through the entire project.

Jim

[matty b]

Heres the short list:

1. Turbo or turbos correctly sized for your engine size and power requirements

2. Manifolds. These can be anything from uppipes and crossover pipes to full on fabricated stainless headers.

3. Wastegates. I dont know what size motor you are running so its hard to gives a suggestion but on dual turbo setups a pair of tial 35 wastegates are sufficient

4. Oil feed lines. These are normally -4 line youll need to tap off of your oil pressure sending location.

5. Oil return lines. These plumb back to your oil pan and the are normally -10.

6. Oil restrctior for oil feed. These are small fittings that have a small hole drilled in them to restrict how much oil flow into the turbo. If you neglect to use these, you can possibly blow out a seal and start burning oil.

7. oil return flange. This bolt on to the return side of the turbo oil drain and they cost around 15 dollars.

8. Aluminum stainless or coated tubing from turbo to engine. Also get fitting to mount sensors like your AIT sensor and fittings for vaccum hose. Tubing should be no smaller than the turbo outlet and no larger than the throttle body so normally 2"-2.5" is fine.

9 Intercooler, get one sized for the application. You can go without but you are severly limiting your engine output and IMO you should always run one.

10. Fuel Injection. This is almost necessary so if you dont have it get it. While youre at it get a pump that can handle the power and plumb it with -10 on the feed and -8 on the return. Get injectors that flow enough fuel for your max hp goal while staying at 80% max duty cycle.

11. Wideband and boost gauge. Your motor will surely die if you can monitor these. If youre on a budget get the Innovate LC1 they are awesome and low cost.

12. 3 inch exhaust. Low restriction is key, so try to remove all back pressure.

That should do it. There are extras like silicon couplers and clamps. A good place to look at turbo parts are www.atpturbo.com . I wouldnt recommend anything fabricated by them cause it sucks but there hardware like turbos and fittings ect are good and reasonably priced. I have pieced together quite a few turbo kits and although a prepackaged kit is worth the convinience, you also get prepackaged performance with the possibilty of lack of upgrades or options. If you have any questions lemme know.
10.

[shmoov69]

Well, a carby DOES work, ask me how I know! LOL
But if you go carb, get a good one already done by CSU (or whoever!) instead of modding one yourself (like I did). It will work the first time and be right! There are turbo cars running 7's with carbs. BUUUT that being said, EFI is better because it is more tuable and also you can see exactly what is happening real time and with a data logger.
Go to the turbo fourms and do LOTS of reading.
Also, remember that EVERYONE (myself included) has a different opinion of what works! Pick one that you agree with and go with it. LOL
Good luck

[DeltaT]

Even if you do a carb, consider a wideband O2 sensor, or even 2 with the new dual controllers. That way you can auto-choose the leanest output of the 2 for feedback and safety.

Jim

[705.0Merc]

I am running a Holley 600 doublepumper on my turbocharged engine.
A few more things:

- Blow off valve or a bypass valve.

- Colder range spark plugs with less gap than stock.

- Some kind of timing advance limiter or boost retard.

I used mild steel mandrel bent exhaust tubing.
Hot side crossover pipe 2 1/2"
Cold side intercooler pipe 3"
Down pipe off of the turbo 3"
These all depend on the turbo etc. being used.

Check this out http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php

[Texas Hotrod]

You're asking for a simple answer to a very big question. You can't just pick and choose different parts and expect everything to work as planned. It all has to be built as a complete package. We've all seen the DIY junk yard builds, some with good results, most that self-destruct.
You need to size the turbos (turbo?) to the engine and the carb. The carb has to be blow-through specific, spend the $900 and get an 850cfm from CSU. A single plane intake is best, sell the dual pane and get a Victor series. Reversing a set of cast iron manifolds will cut costs -vs- custom fabbed headers, but headers will perform better. Boost levels depend on the engine combo. Is the deck o-ringed? Copper head gaskets? Billet internals/forged pistons/8:1 compression??? A stock type engine is safe for 5 (6?) psi.
Waste gates, blow-off valve, carb hat, MSD BTM, adequate fuel system, etc... There's a lot to consider.

Is the rest of the car capable of the gained HP levels. Turbo 400??? $800 non-ballooning converter??? Scatter shield??? 12 bolt/Ford 9"??? Traction devices and frame stiffeners??? Racing harnesses/roll cage??? A really good braking system??????????????????????
Everyone wants a turbo system but seldom does anyone look at the whole picture.

I built this system for a friend of mine. He brought me a box of mandrel bent tubing and rolls of steel braided hosing. His Dart block/Dart heads 406 small block uses Master Power T-70s, a CSU prepped Holley 850 and a Victor Jr. intake. Dual waste gates, single blow-off valve, MSD electronics, etc... The same basic list as above.
Is waste-gated at 10psi for now. It's been street driven for many months, is now broke in and ready for more boost. Soon it'll be turned up to 15psi for the initial dyno run, but capable of 20. Should be good for close to 1K hp.
With only minimal tuning, the carb was almost perfect right out of the box.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2811532420102045454oNtuDv)

Good luck on your build up.

[Z06killinSBF]

For ALOT of Q's, go check out www.turbomustangs.com The site used to be stricktly 'Stangs, but not anymore. They have a Noob section that'll answer most of your questions.