What to look for in a chevelle?

[payne]

First off, let me introduce myself...

Im a LS1 swapper, but in a little different light. Here is my current project:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Its a 1993 RX7 with a LS1/t56 combo... at 2800lbs and ~350rwhp it should easily be a 11sec car (I also have a cam and N20 kit not in it yet to dip down into the 10s) as well as a wicked open track car. Will be 1+Gs laterally. Shes running and driving now, with just loose ends left to wrap up before I head to the California ref to try and get it smog legal (a hellacious project to meet CARB standards, btw)

Now for my questions, I have always loved chevelles and think I have found a good one to do another LS1 swap, but with a 4L60e this time around.

The big question is what should I be looking for when I look for one?

I have found one that is an hour away with 8-month old paint, new 12 bolt posi with 3.73s, all Hotchikis suspension, stock front disks, all the SS stuff but the dash, all the guages, brand new interior, all new chrome, etc... looks like a really clean beast.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


It currently has a built 327 and t350 with a 3600 stall and claimed 400hp, with 2000 miles claimed on the motor.

Now for the questions:

1. Is $6000 a good price for this as a roller?
2. What about $9000 as a driver?
3. What does an LS1 swap cost on top of the motor, for a basic, cruiser swap? I assume it can be done for under $3000?
***4. What do I need to look for on a 71 chevelle, to look for rust, frame damage, stuff that will bite me in the ass later...
5. Is there an easy way to measure if the frame is straight?
6. How streetable is a 400hp 327 at 10.5:1 going to be with a t350, 3.73s, and a big stall? Will I be able to get more than 10 mpg?

[MrQuick]

Hi Payne, welcome to the site...I seem to remember another Ls1 RX7 running around here...cool project but yes a real pain in Calif.CARB realy frowns on adding cylinders.
Now on the Chevelle, seems like a great price ...rolling that is cause you are going to swap in an LS1 anyways I don't see wasting extra cash.Its got interior,paint,posi,Hotchkis stuff...I can see 6k worth. However how good is the body work?And as you mentioned,is the frame straight.All of that would have to be taken into consideration.
As far as the frame measure points,try looking around on Ebay.Theres a guy selling frame point sheets,or you can try a classic auto body shop as they usually have them availible.If you look at the bottom of the frame you will see a bunch of 11/16" holes. I believe A bodies have 4 up front(before trans xmember) and 4 more aft. You can run a plumb frome these points, mark locations on the floor and then measure for squareness. I say its a good buy but becarefull, I assume your buying from a body guy? Look very close. good luck

[Conekiller13]

If it doesn't have any problems 6k sounds like a great deal. It's a nice colour. The rust areas are just below the back window between the window and the deck lid. Also the lower rear wheel well area.

I would say 10mpg sounds about right for that combination. Get a T-56 in there and things will be much better.
:cool:

[wickedmotorhead]

Wow seems like a great deal, love the paint colors. One thing to check is ebay to compare some prices. Is this a true SS car? Also yes check the frame if you can. I attached sheet that shows some frame measurements for that year, but also just check front to rear and cross car diagonals. With that fresh of paint why do they want to get rid of it? Is it a respectable body man? Check for bondo!! if unknown. As far as the engine if you wanted to buy it running that would be very streetable to my standards, I drive my Chevelle all the time and it a lot more radical than that and I got 10mpg on the highway driving it 500 miles to thrash it on a dyno and 500 miles back on pump gas. In my opinion for the extra 3K I would do the LS1 intall, a lot better engine, a lot cooler, and comparable hp. Be weary about a new motor that they want to sell all of a sudden. I believe there is someone on here that did or is doing a LS1 swap in a Chevelle hopefully they will chime in. Good Luck!

[socalfandabodys]

some thing I would look for are the lower front fender corners,the front frame horns. If the car was ever in a fron end accident those frame horns will be bent or look out of whack. also check the trunk,floorboards and front windshield area. the frame rails that run by the rocker areas are places where rust can be hiding. For $6000 it sounds like a great deal. Most places charge $6000 for a good paint and body job

[boodlefoof]

welcome to the site! Haven't seen an LS1 RX7 before, but saw a turbo LS1 Nissan 300ZX (1990s version). Excellent!

[phonedude_mln]

great rx7 -- that is easily the best body style of them all.

I'm not a Chevy guy, but $6k for a roller w/ paint, 12 bolt, hotchkis, etc. sounds
like a steal. The colors are beautiful too. Save the $3k and put your own motor
in. Unless you *need* a car to drive right away, you'll save $ in the long run.

Slightly off-topic -- that looks like a 66 Galaxie in the background -- got any more
pics on that? What's the story there?

[chevelleman]

I grew up in, around and under Chevelles all my life! The biggest prob is the right front frame horn. It's right under the Batt box. 90% of the ones I have seen have some sort of rot from the acid eating away the chassis. The bad part about it is it's where the sway bar bolts and where the idler are bolts.. Check these areas very well. If the chassis is not square you should be able to tell by just looking at the wheel/tire allignment and the frame horns. The floors under the Back seat will also have some rot from time to time most or the time on the corner by the wheel wells. To me $6K sounds like a good deal for a roller!!Build your own engine/trans!

[payne]

Thanks so much for the info guys!

Next stupid question? How do I "check for bondo"? I know that you can tap around and hear it, and if you take a magnet to see if it will stick, but what are better ways? What magnet should I take? Like I said, Im 21 and new to old muscle, so I dont know stuff like this.

Also, I have been here a time or two a few years back, but it looks like you have a much better board now and my account is gone

[ProdigyCustoms]

Take a light duty refrigerator type magnet. To strong a magnet will stick through even a 1/4" of bondo. Use it all around the lower fenders, doors, quarters, wheel lips, lower trunk edge, and on a Chevelle, around the bottom of the rear window is a trouble area. Also, check the trunk floor, when the rear windows go, the trunk soon follows.
Thanks,

[Milow68]

Look for big islands of shrinking, sanding scratches from large mud areas. Fish eyes may tell you if solvents are "popping" (poor dry times)
You can look at the body lines to see how "crisp" they are and if they line up at doors fenders area. Could tell you if something was replaced or dented and mudded up. See how well the door gaps, hood gaps, and truck gaps. Do they look even thru the whole length of the door or fender etc.... How good does the door open and close, does it drop? Easy fix, but a pain after painted.

I guess some other bad areas for damage, look at rear passenger shock where it bolts to the frame see if it is cracked around the mount.
The easiest way to learn if it is a good paint job is take somebody along that does paint work, I have learned a lot from a few friends showing me what happens when things go wrong.
By the way Welcome Payne. Where you from? Maybe somebody here can help you.

Hope my .02 helps
Brad