Electric Door Locks and Poppers?

[70TWO NOVA]

Hey guys,
We are shaving the door handles and removing the wind wing windows on my liitle bros 1972 Nova and are going to be installing door poppers and electric locks. We have never done this sort of thing before and were wondering what all is required to do this. Do we need both electric locks and poppers for the doors to open, also what should we use as a backup (cable, hidden switch?) in case of FOB failure. What are some manufactures of good quality electric lock soleniods and poppers/kits to do this? Any and all info is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian

[syborg tt]

here is what we used on my project

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[70TWO NOVA]

thanks, but where do the poppers mount?

[syborg tt]

thanks, but where do the poppers mount?

popper would go in the lower part of the "B" Pillar

[70TWO NOVA]

is it possible to put them in the door itself, rather than cut into the b-pillar?

[70TWO NOVA]

also since the car doesnt already have electric door locks would we need to have a solenoid to lock/unlock the doors and a separate soleniod to unlatch the door?

[syborg tt]

also since the car doesnt already have electric door locks would we need to have a solenoid to lock/unlock the doors and a separate soleniod to unlatch the door?

Since you don't have door handles you don't really need to lock the door. So you could just remove the locking devise.

[70TWO NOVA]

I never thought about it like that. Now i feel kinda stupid!:hand:

[Steve Firebird]

If you did not do any thing yet I think I would go with bear claw power latches. If I were to do it over again that’s what I would do. They have the solenoid build right into them. You need to get a mounting kit and weld it into the door in some cases. I used the solenoid cable popper set up but I think the bear claw would be better in the long run. Look around a little before you do it. There are some cool set ups around. I saw one somewhere that all you had to do was touch the door in a certain place and it pop open.
http://a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=94000-REM4
http://www.clparts.com/clshop/store.php?crn=104
One thing to think about also is you may not be able to race it a a tract with shaved doors do to safty rules.

[70TWO NOVA]

We havent bought anything yet, so I will definately have to explore the avenue you suggested with the bear claw latches. Sounds like a more dependable set up.

[Martin71RS]

The kit I ordered had the 15lbs solenoids and when I tried them on a spare door they worked. With the door in the first lock (door doesn't open but is not completely closed) it works. BUT...... with the door fully closed the solenoid wasn't strong enough anymore. I should have ordered the kit with the 35lbs solenoids the first time, I thought I didn't need them and that I would save some $$. Off course now I had to spend extra $$ to fix the problem. I left the door poppers out since the new rubbers allready throw the door open a bit.

With the shaved doors you need to think of ways to open your door in case something fails:
1) I made a switch in the trunk to operate the drivers door solenoid in case the remote battery is dead. 2) I used an extra channel to lower the drivers side window in case the solenoid fails. 3) I will put a start help (sort of battery) in the trunk to use in case the battery is dead.

[CRead01]

I went with autoloc and I couldn't be happier. I got the 7 channel kit with the 75lbs solenoids. You probably dont have to get one with so much pull but they recomend it. also the remote can control other items. I am going to use one channel for a remote trunk popper and maby some other toys. I also mounted a cable under my hood so if the battery goes dead just pop the hood and pull.