View Full Version : subframe connector question
greygoose006
11-28-2007, 08:55 PM
do bolt in subframe connectors work at all, or should i go for the big money, hardcore weld in ones.
now that i have some money to work with, i want to put a set of subframe connectors in, but dont have a welder, or any experience welding.
i could theoretically take it to a shop to have it professionally done, but was hoping to be able to do this myself.
obviously weld in is a superior choice, but i want to know if bolt in is a waste of time or is it comparable to weld in?
sorry if this is a basic question, but the other forum i go to is worthless for anything technical.
class67
11-28-2007, 09:20 PM
You're right, weld in connectors are better but the bolt ins will work also just not as stiff. Look at this way...anything is better than nothing.
nancejd
11-28-2007, 09:35 PM
My understanding is that the bolt in connectors are to be avoided, as they concentrate bending loads in the bolt connection of the subframe, which over time, can cause the holes to elongate, therby causing movement of the subframe.
On my '96 Camaro, I bolted the subframe connectors in, and then had the shop weld them in, as I didn't have the capability to do it myself at the time. In my opinion, I'd do it right, and get the weld in connectors.
greygoose006
11-29-2007, 05:02 PM
any other opinions about this?
are bolt ons really that bad?
Lowend
11-29-2007, 05:18 PM
Bolt-in SFC's WILL fail over time for the reasons James stated above
chassisguy
11-29-2007, 06:02 PM
It depends on what your pupose with the car is? My opinion is the weld in are the way to go but, if you dont have a lot of power and your car dosent launch real hard the bolt-in will probably be fine. Then if you end up building more power later or they start to wear out then weld them up!
greygoose006
11-29-2007, 06:28 PM
well i wont likely be doing much drag racing, and i surely wont have slicks on it.
the reason i want sfc's is that it has a rebuilt 350 in it that is making a lot more power than the stock 305 ever dreamed of, and basically i dont want any problems later on.
does this change things?
do i even need sfc?
Vegas69
11-29-2007, 06:36 PM
If I am not mistaken Iroc Z's came with 350's in the eighties? I used to race one all the time with my 81 Monte with a stout 327 and win.:yeah:
David Pozzi
11-29-2007, 07:12 PM
Yes, starting in 1979 you could get the tuned port 350 with auto trans only, - which only had about 10 hp more than the 305.
I wouldn't get too worried about SFC's if you are not drag racing with slicks.
You don't want to try welding them in if you don't have good welding skills. Thin floor panels is not the place to learn to weld.
David
greygoose006
11-29-2007, 07:16 PM
the iroc-z became available in 85, and was offered with a 305. the 350 was offered starting in 87 i believe.
as for the sfc, i was just thinking that it would be extra insurance.
MrQuick
11-29-2007, 07:36 PM
Is this for your 85?
If so they have well engineered bolt in units that work. T top cars would benefit from a set. I took my set off cause I didn't like the way the car felt. Plan on making a triangulated type.
David Pozzi
11-29-2007, 08:27 PM
There was a throttle body 350 available probably 87 or 88, but the IROC used only the tuned port engine and the 350tpi version was first available in 1989. I was autocrossing an 85 Z/28 and bought a new 89 IROC spring of 89 with the dual cats option and low ring and pinion ratio, it had a bit more HP than the std IROC. I recall the hp rating was around 220, maybe 230. The 350 IROC was 1 second faster 0 to 60 and about 1 sec faster on an autocross course. There were a very few 1LE camaros built in 88 that had the 350 engine. I autocrossed against one locally.
The problem with offering a manual trans at that time was it didn't hold up. The differentials didn't hold up well either. The IROC in 89 used the Aussie Borg Warner 9 bolt diff. It was marginally stronger but still not enough.
David
MrQuick
11-29-2007, 09:53 PM
I wish I bought that 1LE. The black one right?
chassisguy
11-30-2007, 05:07 PM
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/th_100_0976-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/th_100_0975-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/th_100_0973-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/th_100_0971-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/th_100_0974-1.jpg
chassisguy
11-30-2007, 05:09 PM
Thats a customer car i did a few months back, they helped out alot!
If yours is a t-top car then its not a bad idea!
MrQuick
11-30-2007, 08:26 PM
Nice, I had made a set that went outward too and it didn't feel right. I was getting a strange bounce out of turns on the track. Went away after I removed it.
Did you weld the rocker pinchweld to the bar? That might be the difference.
I think next time around i'll make a set from the front frame cut into the floor pan straight back to the rear frame rails then put an "X" section over the trans tunnel.
High Plains Mopars
12-01-2007, 07:17 AM
Think of it this way; You can button the sleeves on a shirt and it will stay together for a while, but eventually the buttons get worn and fall off. If you sew the sleeves on the shirt, then they will stay on longer than the maerial of the fabric will last.
MrQuick
12-01-2007, 11:54 PM
what about real tight net shirts?
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