Lowering the rear of a back-halved car?

[4birdman]

OK, so when I bought the Patriot Dream Camaro it was basically hollow in the back. The previous owner installed the center support and gave me the aftermarket rear frame rails. I plan on installing them at the factory width for springs and then installing minitubs for clearance.

Now my questions is this. With the leaf springs attached to the frame the way I have them, the car will effectively be about 1-2" higher in the rear because the springs will be mounted under the frame rail instead of to the side in the little pocket like they are from the factory. What would be my best option for lowering the rear of this car? I had planned on either Hotchkis 2" drop leafs or DSE 3" drop leafs, but last night I realized I need more drop than that.

Should I take some factory springs and have them rearched for the drop I need? I'm on a very tight budget, so a 4-link is out of the question, unless someone knows of anyone who might want to donate something to the project.

This car is gonna look major stinkbug unless I can figure something out. :hand:

[MrQuick]

If the rear frame rails aren't installed you can put them anywhere you can to set the ride height. Also a leaf spring mount pocket could be made so the added 1-2 inches won't be an issue....can we get some pictures for reference.

If its back halved already you might as well follow through with a link suspension and coil overs. Set up for a wide size so its can be an option in the future.

Putting links together ( http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=49_723 ) with Poly end links can help keep the cost down. A used set of QA1 coil overs will finish out the rear nicely.

[4birdman]

I'll see if I can get some photos. I want to use the stock trunk floor and all, so that is why I'm having the issue. And I don't think I could make a spring mount pocket for it. The factory frame rails are bent out to allow the pocket to sit next to it. These frame rails are straight and the spring would have to sit under it.

I really would like to finish it off with a link suspension and coil overs, but it isn't in the budget. I gotta get this car done by July 11th when Shawn gets home and I'm doing this job off of donations and my side powdercoating business profits.

[MrQuick]

I remember the original project car. But I can't seem to find the link to his pictures.

I thought I saved some of them.

I do remember the frame being straight. You can either move the rails in more and have the leafs ride outside of them OR set the frame rails so leafs can ride inside of them. The leafs will function fine parallel. Pictures would be great.

[4birdman]

Well, the rails aren't in the car right now. They were odd in that they were a 3x2 tubing that reduced to a 2x2 tube in one area. I took them down to a shop to have them remove the 2x2 and replace it with a longer piece of 3x2. Once I get them back I'll post pictures.

I didn't realize the springs would work effectively parallel to the rails. So I can pretty much make two pockets for the front off to the side and use offset shackles for the rear and it will work out ok?

[SatisTraction]

i suggest mini tubing it 1st. then you can set the springs where they need to be. The DSE kit moves the rear of the springs over to clear the tires.

[MrQuick]

Well, the rails aren't in the car right now. They were odd in that they were a 3x2 tubing that reduced to a 2x2 tube in one area. I took them down to a shop to have them remove the 2x2 and replace it with a longer piece of 3x2. Once I get them back I'll post pictures.

I didn't realize the springs would work effectively parallel to the rails. So I can pretty much make two pockets for the front off to the side and use offset shackles for the rear and it will work out ok?

Ok cool, sounds like competition enginnering frame rails to me.

I agree mock in the rims, tubs and put the frame rails in so there are parallel to the tubs. You really don't have to notch the frame rails since they are straight. Then mock in the leaf springs from there. I estimate they will be right inside of the rails.

The DSE off set shackles put the leafs closer but not completely parallel. They will work fine at that position. At this point you can set up the front spring mounts inside the frame with a "C" bracket and just fabricate a rear mount also inside the frame. You can make a rear cross member out of 2 x 3 stock and have an inner structure to use stock leaf shackles. This way you can raise or lower it to your desired height.

[4birdman]

Sounds good to me! Thanks for the help man, I've got something in my mind to work with now.

Bryan

[31 SONIC]

Like Mr. Quick said. It sounds like the Competition Engineering frame rails. The neck down from 2x3 to 2x2 is so you can butt them up to the Competition Engineering weld in frame connectors. The frame connectors have the front spring perch built onto them. If they haven't installed frame connectors yet, you could get them and not have to fabricate a front spring perch.