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Chevy
11-18-2007, 10:12 PM
I have a 68 camaro with a sbc 350 from a 75 camaro. Put AFR 190s on last weekend with new ARP head studs. I used a thread cleaner (not a tap) to clean all of the threads in the block before using permatex thread sealer with eptfe on the ends and putting the studs in hand tight. I lubed the washers and nuts with mobile 1 before torquing to 70 lbs. Started the engine up and i get leaking from the threads between the stud and the nuts (little bubbles while the car is running). Called ARP and they recommended draining the block, cleaning the threads, and re-gooping them with more thread sealer. Did as they recommended this weekend and i still have leaking. I put enough thread sealer on to cover the threads from top to bottom and then rubbed it in with my finger by rolling the stud to make sure it was down in the threads. WTF?

ProdigyCustoms
11-18-2007, 10:28 PM
I use Permatex 2A on the threads going into the block, no lube. You may just want to try some Alumiseal in the radiator. Comes in a little tube the size of a roll of quarters. It i not uncommon with aluminum components to need a sealer. Won't hurt a thing, just make the water smell like dead fish, bu that is what a radiator cap is for!

JEFFTATE
11-20-2007, 10:38 AM
Don't you have to use a special bolt for certain heads.
I know the vortec heads have a different bolt than a non-vortec heads.
I'm not sure about using studs.
You may want to check into that.

70camaro406
11-20-2007, 11:33 AM
My dad had that problem when he put head studs and new aluminum heads on his 406. You could see some bubbling coming up between the studs and the nuts, the outside ones below the headers. He used the same ARP Thread sealer that you used.

He ended up using, recommended by many local engine builders, Permatex Aviation gasket maker, it's dark brown goop stuff in a white container, and that worked. In fact, I used it on my engine, in many gasket areas, when I put my new AFR heads on. It really works well. Give it a try.

Chevy
11-20-2007, 04:03 PM
My dad had that problem when he put head studs and new aluminum heads on his 406. You could see some bubbling coming up between the studs and the nuts, the outside ones below the headers. He used the same ARP Thread sealer that you used.

He ended up using, recommended by many local engine builders, Permatex Aviation gasket maker, it's dark brown goop stuff in a white container, and that worked. In fact, I used it on my engine, in many gasket areas, when I put my new AFR heads on. It really works well. Give it a try.

Thanks for the ideas fellas. I like this idea and the alumaseal. Alumaseal obviously easier to implement, and i talked to the guys at Ron Davis where i purchased my radiator, they said no problem to use it, so i think i'll try that first. For the Aviation gasket maker, is the procedure to pull one stud at a time, clean stud and block, goop stud up, and put stud back in?

Chevy
11-20-2007, 04:04 PM
Don't you have to use a special bolt for certain heads.
I know the vortec heads have a different bolt than a non-vortec heads.
I'm not sure about using studs.
You may want to check into that.
Thanks for the idea but i'm sure i have the correct studs, the head gasket is holding, i'm just getting leaking around the threads of the studs where they go into the water jacket.

70camaro406
11-21-2007, 06:25 AM
For the Aviation gasket maker, is the procedure to pull one stud at a time, clean stud and block, goop stud up, and put stud back in?

Yes. That's exactly what he did, and he did it in the order of tighening head bolts, starting in the center and working your way out.

IMO, that's what I would do first, since you know that's where it's leaking. You don't want to put stuff in your radiator when you don't have to. Good luck.

DeltaT
11-21-2007, 01:03 PM
I use the Permatex Hi-Temp sealer, put some extra on including on the bottom of the washer and some on the shaft. I also used the Alumaseal. Now I get signs of a little weepage but nothing like the dribbling before.

Switching to a block that has blind stud holes is the only sure cure that I've heard of.

Jim

MrBadwrench
11-21-2007, 11:13 PM
I have installed a set of AFR 220 on my drag car and it seems that I remember that the instructions that seepage from around the head studs was the norm. What I used was a ceramic seal bring to temp and re-torque. I will try to find the actual instructions.

Twin_Turbo
11-22-2007, 05:52 PM
throw some black pepper in the radiator and start the car, chances are it will stop leaking. Not uncommon with studs.

uwntsumrtII
11-22-2007, 05:58 PM
may be a moot point by now, but did you aloow the sealer to set-up before adding coolant/water?

MrBadwrench
11-22-2007, 07:18 PM
Good point. I took that for granted to.:pat:

Chevy
11-23-2007, 11:23 AM
may be a moot point by now, but did you aloow the sealer to set-up before adding coolant/water?
I did--about 36 hours. I was i told i didn't have to by ARP, but it made sense to me, so that is what i did...when reading the instructions on the tube, it doesn't say to allow set-up time either. Was 36 hours long enough? Or is longer requried?

Chevy
11-23-2007, 11:24 AM
I called Ron Davis, who made my radiator, and they told me alumaseal is not a problem at all in the collant system, so i put a tube in...and the leaking seems to have gone away. I'll post an update if the situation changes...Thanks to all for ideas/help!

pdq67
11-30-2007, 08:18 PM
I've used good old Permatex, "Indianhead Shellac Gasket Cement" for years on darn near everything and it's MADE for this!!

A little daub on both the threads and under the head and go!! Messy darn stuff, but it flat WORKS!!

pdq67

uwntsumrtII
11-30-2007, 08:34 PM
I did--about 36 hours. I was i told i didn't have to by ARP, but it made sense to me, so that is what i did...when reading the instructions on the tube, it doesn't say to allow set-up time either. Was 36 hours long enough? Or is longer requried?

sorry i didn't reply sooner. overnight would have been sufficiant. but i see you seem to have the problem resolved, :cool:

LS6 Tommy
12-02-2007, 04:42 PM
He ended up using, recommended by many local engine builders, Permatex Aviation gasket maker, it's dark brown goop stuff in a white container, and that worked. In fact, I used it on my engine, in many gasket areas, when I put my new AFR heads on. It really works well. Give it a try.

You beat me to it. Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3 is the
only sealant any engine builder I know uses for head bolts/studs.

Tommy

kiko hawaii
12-04-2007, 11:53 PM
Had the same problem with my 406.
Used Permatex Indian Head shellac sold at Napa.
Works great.