Rear suspension choices

[ProMC1]

I'm looking for ideas on a rear suspension for my project 72 Monte Carlo. To get any tire under this car at all will require mini-tubbing. Will be running 335 or 345's on probably 19x12. I have ordered the front end stuff from SC&C. After talking with Mark, his stuff was a no brainer for this build. I have looked at some Alston setups for the rear but not sure yet. I'm not a big fan of the quad link factory type setup. This is a high horse power car and while it will not live at the racetrack, I want the closest thing I can get to drag rear suspension adjustability/durability, but still be able to go around the corners without binding. Any suggestions and pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Weldon

[SDMAN]

Your car sounds similar to what Im currently building. And we just started the rear suspension. Its loosely based on a 4 link type (with a lot fewer mounting points) with enough adjustability. To center the rearend, we are using a watts link. There is a pair of double adjustable Strange coil overs and sway bar too. Give me a day or so, and Ill see if I can get down to the shop for a beer and a pic or two. Its just in the final planning stages, but its a start. We are on hold until Budnik delivers my wheels (3 weeks out).

[MonzaRacer]

Ok Weldon first of all your gonna have to make sure you can make that package fit inside the quarter to frame space as that package(335/30/19 19x12) will measure around 13.2 and need atleast 135 to 13.75 minimum.
Now you may have to do an old time clearance trick and trim the outer section of the welded frame and replate it ,,,then I would add some extra bracing to.
Now DO NOT dismiss the rear suspension design built by GM.
As for my experience I am going to give you the 411 that I built and it hooked spectacularly and handled so great I couldnt believe the cars handling also.
I had a 71 Monte Carlo, I used Energy suspesions poly bushings in boxed upper control arms and the housing.
For the lowers I used a set of Southside Machine Lift bars I think Jegs is making them now.
Then I added Air Ride Technologies CoolRide and now I never got a chance to add on some adjustable shock I did have a set of custom Bilstiens a friend gave me.
The 60 fts were dead consistent and it would corner with just about any car I was next to.
Honestly you cant beat it unless you spend a tone of cash and with a decent set up and Air Ride you can drag and handle but I can tell you the 19s wont hook for crap on the dragstrip, too short a sidewall.
But as for dumping the stock set up,,,why there are so many good parts developed for them.
I actually really think of you went with the Air Ride StrongArms too then you would have a great package and not complicate things.
Here is the StreetChallenge kit link and you should be able to tailor the parts list to fit your budget if its too expensive, but figuring that you want it to run,ride and handle the best this is my choice and will probalby go on my 71 Buick skylark I am buying. http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/streetchallengesystems.asp
As you have spoke to Mark at SC&C you can mix and match the actual parts with the air ride and make one tough super handling car or option out the front parts but just add in the front air springs (CoolRide instead of the ShockWaves and still have a decent package) and if you simply bought the kit you can sell the parts you dont use.
Honestly I am custome building a "street challenge" type of kit with some custom parts and some ART stuff for my 77 Monza.
I have had ART suspension under my truck for almost 3 and a half years and drive it daily.
Good Luck
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE
PS i am gonna get Mark to whip me up some tastey upper control arms for my Monza

[MonzaRacer]

Besdies this thing rocks the road cource for a big A body and I bet its as heavy too.http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/streetchallengesystems.asp
Check out the yellow nad black GSX of Bret Voekels (president of Air Ride Technologies)

[ProMC1]

Thanks for the input. The tire and wheel combo that looks right and works for this car will not fit without moving the frame rails in. I personally like the air ride set up but don't like the price. Looking foward to seeing some pics of the Watts link set up as this appears to be where we might be headed with this project. The next car in line is a 63 cadillac convert that will have the complete air ride setup.

[MonzaRacer]

OK if your talking moving rails inboard and then fabricate a new watts link why not simply install a triangulate or parrllel 4 link and air springs you wont even really need a sway bar if you dont track time it much.
http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/air4link.asp
Black powdercoated bars TRI1000 $399.00
Polished stainless bars & rod ends TRI1000-SS $579.00

http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/air4link_parallel.asp
Black powdercoated bars ARS14500 $849.00
Polished stainless bars & rod ends ARS14500-SS $1,049.00

ARI1000 Front installer package with F6957 double convoluted airsprings $299.00
ARI1002 Rear installer package with F9000 tapered sleeve airsprings $279.00
ARI1001 Same as above (ARI-1002) only with F6873 larger airsprings $325.00
S1000 Universal shock relocation kit with Monroe shocks $125.00
S1001 Universal shock relocation kit with KYB shocks $149.00

Here are some basics to do it and I can tell you for a fact that the air ride will handle and ride better. And be a lot easier to set up too.
But good luck anyway.

[Marcus SC&C]

Hey Weldon, I hate to interupt Lee`s AirRide commercial (just razzin ya Lee! :razz: ) but... You need to look into how the suspension actually works rather than ad hype. There`s nothing wrong with air springs if your customer wants ride height adjustability just talk to ART and get their spring rate/psi charts for the units you use. Set the car up to have the proper spring rate at the proper installed height and it`ll work just as well as a steel springed car (but no better). BTW the Chassisworks suspensions all work with Air Ride as the two companies work closely together. Moving onto the suspension itself binding is the enemy here. Eliminate it everywhere possible. Can you get good performance out of a car that binds? Sure but it will be much harder to drive fast and less predictable than one that articulates smoothly with a minimum of binding. As a rule avoid rigid tubular arms with hard,sticky bushings at both ends. A urethane or delrin race spherical bearing,isolated from the elements seems to offet the best overall performance. These would include arms from Currie,Edelbrock (some),and ChassisWorks (some). There are several other companies that are supposed to be bringing copycat products to market also.
You also have to look at the geometry. Most rear clips will offer a wide range of adjustment so you can set it up for minimum roll steer and maximum traction (although not always at the same time). The stock suspension doesn`t offer any adj. but bolt/weld on brackets can add some to the rear of the LCAs very easily. Note there are a LOT of drag cars going really fast using all of the stock rear suspension mouning points. That said cars running fully adj. rear clips,that are well set up tend to go even faster... Heh,it`s never easy is it? :) Mark SC&C