V8TV Bodywork - Royal Camaro

[Taylor1969]

Hi Guys,

The time is coming quickly to begin the bodywork on my camaro. I have seen the work done on the Royal Camaro from V8TV - Does it look like a good method?

Bodywork
http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/257/70/

Block Sanding
http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/251/43/

Paint
http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/141/43/

Thanks,
Chris

[ProdigyCustoms]

I do not have time and did not watch all your links. But I did see that car live at both SEMA right after it was finished,and again in May at the Year One Experiance. And I must say the body and paint on that car looked great.

I remeber watching the daily updates before SEMA, and there is no doubt the paint and bodywork was pushed, but it sure looked great, pushed or not.

[Taylor1969]

I do not have time and did not watch all your links. But I did see that car live at both SEMA right after it was finished,and again in May at the Year One Experiance. And I must say the body and paint on that car looked great.

I remeber watching the daily updates before SEMA, and there is no doubt the paint and bodywork was pushed, but it sure looked great, pushed or not.

Frank,

I was most concerned about proper techniques. I plan to get it ready for paint at home, and do one panel at a time. I am going to start with the doors and complete everything in steps.

Can you go through the steps I should to complete it at home. Is it safe to put filler straight to bare metal?

Say I take a door off of the car, can you help me with each step I should take on the door. I assume step one is to strip it to bare metal. What is the best method for protecting the door after it is ready for paint (blocked, perfect) if it takes 3-6 months to complete the entire process going through the car panel by panel?

I can go through the steps that they took on the Royal Camaro...

They have the body down to bare metal. First they put fiber filler on all seams and rough cut it. Once that is done they spread filler on each panel directly to bare metal and block. Once the body is straight they spray primers, they block again, seam seal and then spray the base.

All help would be greatly appreciated.

[hotrdblder]

there are a few different ways you can go
1.strip to bare metal, replace whats needs replacing
2.if panels will sit in between body work you need to spray them with 2 coats of epoxy primer, then before bodyworking sand epoxy with 80 grit.
3. once the panel is body worked, you can either polyester primer it(sprayable bondo) or urethane prime it, poly is not waterproof and should not get wet like being outside, but it builds so nice, urethane primer fills nice and is completely weather resistant, and it builds and fills nicely. if you poly, once you block sand you will need to spray urethane over it, then dry or wet sand urethane primer with 500-600 grit and its ready for base coat, if you have burn throughs, re prime the areas and sand them, you do not need to use sealer and a home job i would not use sealer as it will add dust andf orange peel to the finish and the only thing sealer does is provide a uniform color to apply base over, if you finish sand in 600 and have no burn thrus, your good to apply base then clear
jake

[Taylor1969]

so then after I use a poly primer I should spray something like DP90 on top of everything to protect it?

If I use a particular system, PPG for example - what products should I use

i.e. -

first epoxy with x
second do bodywork (evercoat rage extreme)
third polyester prime w/ x
fourth urethane prime w/ x

[hotrdblder]

you have it right, however dp 90 is epoxy primer not urethane primer, so after poly priming and block sanding, spray urethane primer 2-3 coats, block
with 400 then 600, respray any burn thrus, if its not on an edge the only reason you will have a burn thru is a high spot which means theres a low right next, anyway use urethane over the poly, and shoot 2-3 coats then use black guide coat and it can sit like that for a long time,

[Taylor1969]

you have it right, however dp 90 is epoxy primer not urethane primer, so after poly priming and block sanding, spray urethane primer 2-3 coats, block
with 400 then 600, respray any burn thrus, if its not on an edge the only reason you will have a burn thru is a high spot which means theres a low right next, anyway use urethane over the poly, and shoot 2-3 coats then use black guide coat and it can sit like that for a long time,

Ok so are these steps/products a good choice?

1. Get to Bare Metal
2. Prime with DP90
3. Do Bodywork with Evercoat Rage Extreme
4. Block with 200 grit paper
5. Repeat steps 4&5 until happy
6. Block with 400 grit
7. Spray with NCP 250
8. Block with 400 then 600
9. Spray with DPS3057 Acrylic Urethane Dark Grey
10. Spray with light guide coat and let sit until paint.

[hotrdblder]

Ok so are these steps/products a good choice?

1. Get to Bare Metal
2. Prime with DP90
3. Do Bodywork with Evercoat Rage Extreme
4. Block with 200 grit paper
5. Repeat steps 4&5 until happy
6. Block with 400 grit
7. Spray with NCP 250
8. Block with 400 then 600
9. Spray with DPS3057 Acrylic Urethane Dark Grey
10. Spray with light guide coat and let sit until paint.
#3- sand dp90 with 120 grit before bodywork
#4- rough body work in 36 and 80 grit, skim coat and finish with 180 then poly prime or urethane prime if you poly prime, guide coat block with 120, guide coat again block with 180, fix bodywork as needed, finish in 180, apply 2-3 coats of urethane primer, block sand with 400 wet, 600 wet (preference), if urethane priming over bodyfiller, apply 2-3 coats block with 320 then 400, then apply one last coat and block with 600
if your waiting to paint, after applying last single coat of urethane, do not sand with 600 until it is going to be painted

[hotrdblder]

1-bare metal
2. dp 90
3. sand with 120, do body filler work finish in 180
4.poly prime-3-4 coats
5.guide coat block with 120, guide coat block with 180
6.urethane prime 2-3 coats
7.guide coat wet sand 400,guide coat wet sand 600
8.if not painting for awhile after sanding 400 guide coat and leave it, or do not even sand it with 400 leave it for just before its painted
9.tack off and apply 2-3 coats of base or until full coverage is achieved, then apply 2-3 coats of clear

[hotrdblder]

now if your not poly priming after body work is finished in 180, apply 2-3 coats of urethane primer, dry sand with 220-320, then apply two more coats and wet sand as above.

[Taylor1969]

now if your not poly priming after body work is finished in 180, apply 2-3 coats of urethane primer, dry sand with 220-320, then apply two more coats and wet sand as above.

Awesome man... thanks for your help. So the big benefit of poly primer is the abillity to straighten everything efficiently?

The more I read and hear, the less worried I am about being able to do this myself. This thread will definately be a huge help

[hotrdblder]

polyester primer is sprayable bondo in 4-5 coats it will build 35-50 mils and is designed to do so, where as urethane primer in 2-3 coats is only deisgned to build 8-10 mils and still cure properly.
so if your body work is real good, go to urethane or if you want it super super nice do the sray polyester and block your fingers away

[Taylor1969]

1-bare metal
2. dp 90
3. sand with 120, do body filler work finish in 180
4.poly prime-3-4 coats
5.guide coat block with 120, guide coat block with 180
6.urethane prime 2-3 coats
7.guide coat wet sand 400,guide coat wet sand 600
8.if not painting for awhile after sanding 400 guide coat and leave it, or do not even sand it with 400 leave it for just before its painted
9.tack off and apply 2-3 coats of base or until full coverage is achieved, then apply 2-3 coats of clear

I want to make sure that I get all of the correct products...

Epoxy Primer - DP90
Filler - Evercoat Rage Extreme
Polyester Primer - Evercoat Slick Sand
Urethane Primer - ?