ricks efi tank with carb ls1 setup

[DCx]

im looking for options on a fuel system for my ls1, would it be wise to run the ricks efi tank with a carb? i would be running an aeromotive regulator mounted on the engine and a 3/8 or 5/16 return line back to the tank, 3/8 feed to the carb.

what is a sufficient LPH fuel pump that can support a heads and cam ls1 assuming it makes 500 plus crank horse power? (MS3 cam, ported stage 2 5.3 heads)

Ricks makes a nice sumpped tank but i would rather not mess with an external pump.

i wish a company made a belt driven fuel pump that mounts in the stock a/c location and used the stock crank pulley. now that would kick ass.

[WS6]

I think going this route would be a good idea because in the future, when you see the light or get the money, you can then switch to EFI and not have to worry about the fuel pump and tank because they are already done.

There's nothing wrong with running a carb. They work. I'm just messin. However, weren't you thinking about going to EFI later down the road or where you the one wanting to be different and use a carb? Can't remember, sorry.

[DCx]

i have an ls6 intake, fuel rail, racetronix 37lb injectors, ls6 maf, ls6 valley tray, and throttle body just sitting in the garage.

i had the entire carb setup at one time before i bought my engine. i got a super deal on a cammed 2001 ls1 with some extras (roll master double, tr224, asp pulley...) so off went the carb stuff so i could buy the engine. all i got was an engine, no wiring, or pcm, but i did get all the sensors.

i cant justify spending the money on all the efi wiring and paying someone to dyno it. i dont mind going with a carb. im putting in an t56 with an ls7 clutch and flywheel so mileage wont be a problem. all i need is a victor jr and the msd box and im rolling. $600 investment over the cost of a pcm, programing for the pcm, possible mail order tune, stand alone harness, and my time to wire it all up.

but you are right. in the future i can step up to efi if i want, so stainless tank it is!

im cutting corners because heads, cam, ls7 lifters, gaskets, arp head bolts, t56, clutch, ATS t56 kit, and autokraft oil pan all had to come first.

i have a really nice solid roller sbc in the car right now. almost kills me to get rid of it but i wanted more gears than my m22 offers so along with an overdrive trans i scored an ls1.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Aeromotive has a regulator that will tame a in tank pump. I have used them to hold down even A1000 pumps for carb applications.

We sell a lot of Rick's tank and use Walbro pumps with motors to 450HP. The Aeromotive regulator will hold it down, but you will switch you feed and return lines, using the larger line for return for the low pressure carb application. And switch them when you go to fuel injection using the small line for return

[DCx]

so i should run a 5/16 feed and a 3/8 return?

[DCx]

anyone know what company DSE uses for there tanks? or are they the same as a ricks? for the cost i might just go with a DSE tank since it comes with a walbro pump.

[SatisTraction]

i ran a a1000 pump and their carb regulator on my drag car. you have the run the same size return line as the supply line. the a1000 requires two 10an lines or 1/2" lines. otherwise you will get pressure creep at an idle.

[DCx]

what is the A1000 rated at GHP or LPH? is it true that a carb can use a less powerful pump because the fuel bowls keep it from starving?

this is from the DSE site
"The DSE LS1 fuel tanks use a Walbro GSS340 electric
in-tank pump that delivers 60-65 PSI @ 55gl/hr (on 13.5 volts)"


think a 3/8 in 3/8 out will be ok? with this style regulator? it has three 3/8 ports and is adjustable from 2-20 psi with the low pressure spring.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D13301&N=700+4294880914+115&autoview=sku

according to the regulator instructions a pump from 1-60 GPH should use a 3/8 return line.

[SatisTraction]

this is the regulator you need and you need to follow the manufactures instructions. that will prevent pressure creep and prevent you from burning up that expensive pump.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D13204&N=700+115&autoview=sku

[DCx]

what about the fittings at the tank? they are only -6

[DCx]

this is kinda driving me nuts now. i didnt know fuel systems were this complicated. should i just go with a ricks stealth tank? i think they are around $1700.... :scared:

http://www.rickshotrodshop.com/StealthSeries.htm

a1000 in tank pump, in tank filter, -10 supply, -8 return.

[SatisTraction]

just call ricks and talk to them. they will set you straight.

[ProdigyCustoms]

DC, if you call us we will set you up with exactly what you need and you can save a few pennies. NO, you do not ned a stealth tank.

Satistraction is correct on the matching size feed and return line. The larger return works also, and allows the switch down the road for FI

four zero seven 832 1752

[deviousz28]

Yes 6an up and 6an down will work fine. Don't worry about the an fitting size on the regulator, thts why the make adaper fittings the go from 10an to 6an in a single fitting. You do not need the stealth tank. The 255 or 340 pump will be way more than you will ever need carbed. If you change your mind about the sumped tank I have a brand new Rick's SS tank I'm not going to use for $400, cost right at $700 never been mounted in a car.

Scott

[DCx]

so tempting! i just spent all my money on my hooker headers. i do plan in running a sump and an external pump now. it would be so much easier and cheaper to do so. i just need to craft up some mounts for the fuel pump.