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View Full Version : Teflon Power Steering line assembly help needed!!!



dipren443
09-30-2007, 05:50 PM
Ok, so I am feeling like the kid in the corner with the dunce cap...

I am in the midst of installing the following:

Lee 670 Steering box
KRC Type II power steering pump
KSC Remote power steering reservoir.

As it was highly recommended to, I am plumbing all of this with Aeroquip Teflon.

I am hoping the collective genius of the pro touring board can shed some light on my little issue.

I have watched the videos by Russell on how to properly install these fittings, I have weeded through Eaton's confusing, convoluted website and read through their guidelines and have no issues getting the first hose end installed.

My issue is with completing the hose assembly and properly positioning the the second hose end. I am using right angle fittings, and the runs are fairly short, so the circumferential location of the fitting is critical. I tried installing the hose and doing the final tightening on the car, but that doesn't work as the fitting will only spin on the braided hose a short bit before it starts to bind...

Aeroquip seems adamant about the fact that once that ferrule is tightened down and the fitting is disassembled, that it cannot be reused.

So what is the proper solution??!!??!!???!?!?!?!?!?

:help!:

David Pozzi
09-30-2007, 06:42 PM
I have moved mine. No problems.

CarlC
09-30-2007, 07:38 PM
Me too, but occasionally have had one leak. Replacement ferules are available.

You may also want to try making a mark on the hose OD to line up the connector with then finish the joint in the vice.

Is there a way to use a screw-in elbow so that you can use a straight end on the hose?

dipren443
09-30-2007, 07:50 PM
Me too, but occasionally have had one leak. Replacement ferules are available.

You may also want to try making a mark on the hose OD to line up the connector with then finish the joint in the vice.

Is there a way to use a screw-in elbow so that you can use a straight end on the hose?

I could do elbows, but then I would need all new fittings, not to mention another $150 (The correct elbows are $25 a piece, plus all new hose ends). :( I was just hoping there was an easier solution. And I called Summit and Jegs to order some add'l ferrules... They are on backorder.

As far making a mark, can i stop just a little short of tightening up the fitting to line up the mark?? I assumed it had to be seated all the way.

dipren443
09-30-2007, 09:19 PM
Me too, but occasionally have had one leak. Replacement ferules are available.

You may also want to try making a mark on the hose OD to line up the connector with then finish the joint in the vice.

Is there a way to use a screw-in elbow so that you can use a straight end on the hose?

Carl,

Any reason I can't use an aluminum elbow in conjunction with the PS lines?? Only reason I am wondering is that it seems all of the fittings for the high pressure power steering lines are steel. Should I be concerned adding an aluminum elbow into the mix??

Nick

dipren443
10-03-2007, 07:06 AM
Me too, but occasionally have had one leak. Replacement ferules are available.

You may also want to try making a mark on the hose OD to line up the connector with then finish the joint in the vice.

Is there a way to use a screw-in elbow so that you can use a straight end on the hose?

I was able to find Zinc plated steel elbows from Aeroquip, they just weren't available from the typical parts houses. So now I will have straight hose ends and no more issues.

Blown353
10-03-2007, 11:23 AM
Machined elbows are much more restrictive than the "swept" bent-tube ends you put on the hose. Machined elbows are typically a no-no in anything where flow disruption is critical. While the flow rate of a PS system is probably low enough that it wouldn't pose much of a restriction I would err on the side of caution and would not put a machined elbow anywhere in the plumbing for a power steering system.

The hose end does not need to be seated all the way against the ferrule & nut on the hose. A small gap of no more than about .030" is acceptable. That gives you some room to monkey with each hose end to get the proper rotation.

You do not however want to go all the way tight and then back the hose end off to achieve proper clocking. You *may* then have a leak as you have over-compressed the ferrule for the now backed-off hose end. Sneak up on the rotation and then don't tighten it any further.

As Carl said, replacement ferrules are available and cheap.

My preference for PS hose is Aeroquip AQP "airbrake" hose-- it's easier to assemble, doesn't carry pump noise as much as the braided teflon hoses do, and the hose itself and the hose ends are cheaper and easier to work with than the braided teflon stuff. It doesn't look as nice though.

dipren443
10-03-2007, 11:45 AM
The hose end does not need to be seated all the way against the ferrule & nut on the hose. A small gap of no more than about .030" is acceptable. That gives you some room to monkey with each hose end to get the proper rotation.

As Carl said, replacement ferrules are available and cheap.



Where were you when I posted this thread the other day??? LOL, JK.

I think my biggest disappointment so far is the lack of documentation Aeroquip provides in assembling the hoses. Where did you garner the information saying a 0.030" gap is acceptable??? I am not doubting you, I am just curious.

Also, in regards to the replacement ferrules, when I went to order some, neither Summit nor Jegs had them in stock and weren't sure when they could ship. I was able to get new ferrules by ordering additional fittings right away though.

I did do some surfing around the net, and it seemed the general consensus was that teflon was the way to go. I probably would have used the AQP stuff just to avoid these issues if I had known...

So now I have two options as I have just received the additional fittings and elbows. The -10 is a 45° and I think would pose neglible restrictions to flow. The 90°'s on the other hand, well I guess I have a decision to make...

Bad Bowtie
10-03-2007, 12:23 PM
I had these same issues with the aeroquip A/C fittings too. I got lucky with the "clocking" on all but one and I had to re-ferrule it. Lucky that I had an extra fitting to get the ferrule from. Now
i try to make more straight connections whenever I can.Never quite figured out a good way to get the hose and fitting where I needed it. Guess i'll stock some extra ferrules next time.
BB

Blown353
10-03-2007, 12:39 PM
Where were you when I posted this thread the other day??? LOL, JK.

I think my biggest disappointment so far is the lack of documentation Aeroquip provides in assembling the hoses. Where did you garner the information saying a 0.030" gap is acceptable??? I am not doubting you, I am just curious.

Also, in regards to the replacement ferrules, when I went to order some, neither Summit nor Jegs had them in stock and weren't sure when they could ship. I was able to get new ferrules by ordering additional fittings right away though.

The gap criteria came from an Aeroquip assembly/tech book at my local hydraulic hose & rubber products dealer who is a large Aeroquip distributor. I looked at it several years back when I was assembling the hoses for my hydroboost installation. I think replacement -6 ferrules from them are 30-40 cents.

Wouldn't you know... that nice guy Paul at Hydratech has the instruction sheet scanned.

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=133&sid=60c3c634212c1d7712f8e6236a5b710c

And my memory failed me... maximum gap allowable is .031", not .030" as I stated earlier. :rolleyes:

dipren443
10-03-2007, 12:53 PM
The gap criteria came from an Aeroquip assembly/tech book at my local hydraulic hose & rubber products dealer who is a large Aeroquip distributor. I looked at it several years back when I was assembling the hoses for my hydroboost installation. I think replacement -6 ferrules from them are 30-40 cents.

Wouldn't you know... that nice guy Paul at Hydratech has the instruction sheet scanned.

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=133&sid=60c3c634212c1d7712f8e6236a5b710c

And my memory failed me... maximum gap allowable is .031", not .030" as I stated earlier. :rolleyes:

I do appreciate all of your help. I think I will definitely just go ahead and use the original fittings instead of the elbows. Knowing that I can leave some room for error in there is quite reassuring.

And a thousandth off???? Jeesh, come on you can do better than that. :smoke:

CarlC
10-03-2007, 04:41 PM
I thought that instruction was in the black Aeroquip catalog?

Humm, maybe it was the Earl's book, but I know it is in one of them.

Lowend
10-03-2007, 05:24 PM
http://www.youtube.com/user/EarlsStoreOne

Lowend
10-03-2007, 05:28 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LovY7kedyE