I warped my sheet metal while welding, How do I fix it?

[aggressive male]

I chopped out a rot hole in the bottom edge of a door, the piece I chopped was maybe half the size of a cd case. I made a piece to put in, tack welded it in and now the area just above it must have warped inwards while I was welding it. I didn't run a bead all the way down it, I just kept doing little welds across from each other in the hopes it wouldn't warp. Could that still have been too fast? How do I fix this? Can I take a propane torch to the center of the warp, heat it up and then put a damp cloth to it? There isn't much room in the door to hammer it from inside out.

[Hammered]

Your warpage problem is at the weld itself. If you can heat the weld up and then hammer it while holding a dolly on the back side (hammer on dolly), that should begin bring everything back out. What type of welding are you doing - MIG?

[aggressive male]

Your warpage problem is at the weld itself. If you can heat the weld up and then hammer it while holding a dolly on the back side (hammer on dolly), that should begin bring everything back out. What type of welding are you doing - MIG?I did stick welding, I just noticed it's worse than I thought, at the 2 corners on top of the rectangle it bulges out while it bulges in in the center. DO I try to pound in the bulges out first or pound out the bulge in first? This warpage is a bit bigger than a cd.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Bondo

[hotrdblder]

do not stick weld sheet metal, ever.....
with that said it needs to be hammered around, shrunk, then hammered around some more

[aggressive male]

Why not use a stick welder? a stick welders all I have? I'm using very thin rod, wouldn,t a mig welder heat it just as much?

[MrQuick]

no,

[Beegs]

no,

LOL

[J2speedandcustom]

Bondo

Or All metal, which is waaaaaayyyyy better.... :spank2:

[ProdigyCustoms]

Or All metal, which is waaaaaayyyyy better.... :spank2:

LOL! Actually I have a new favorite called CarboFill from SEM, has Carbon Fiber in it and is hard as a.......... Well you get the idea! Expensive as hell though!

[aggressive male]

Thanks guys. I hammerd it while heating it and also put a wet rag to it. Not arrow straight yet but much closer than it was.

[MonzaRacer]

Now as for working a small repair I love Fiberglas Resin Jelly. Its super tough, water proof and just palin the only thing I use on bare metal. I had to repair a quarter panel I welded into my 70 Monte and the metal behind it rusted away(mind you I never got the quarter finished so the clearance light never got back in it) and overthe top I had the FRJ and it was still there tillI had a wreck caving that quarter back in again. Mind you the filler wasstill inplace the metal was only touchingthe filler about 1/2 to 3/4 in down and my patch was gone from midwestern auto termites.
I also worked up a repair to a fender for a chevelle (did same for the old monte fender I still have) where we found a wrecked one that was still sound and unrusted behind the wheel and I cut it off and welded it to the rusted fender after appropriate triming.
Ground the welds, the outer panel had a slight warp in so it had about 3/16 of filler but for this stuff its like hard as a rock and wont crack or absorb water and will actually seal up pin holes.
The body man who straightened the fender for that guy loved it and started using it for everything and did awa ywith lightweight(ie porous) "bondo" , stuff he hates with a passion.
The neat thing about the FRJ is it bonds to ANYTHING, I even used it in a pinch to repair a fender on a friends fiero, the repair is still there and the fender looks better than the rest of the car (IE daddy thinks her car had some misterious work done on it before they bought it) as after we buffed the car it does show a little difference in shades of GM code 11 white.
Good luck and if you do use it you have to do 80 percent of the work before it cures or you will work extra hours to get it down.
Oh and a friend also used it to repair some cracked drians till spring one years haha, it is water proof.
Lee

[aggressive male]

Yeah, sounds like it would be great for the car but when you have to sand it before you prime it I would think that stuff is almost as bad for your lungs as asbestos. Even with a mask I'm sure some of it would leak through to your lungs somehow. Can primer stick to this stuff without sanding it?

[danbob67]

use a respirator, I dont know of anybody that can wipe a filler on without sanding/blocking before it is primed as with any body work, you need to get it as straight as possible before you put any type of filler on less is better, them short strand fiberglass fillers do work better for the thicker applications.

[rocketman]

I prefer to TIG weld everything. less hat and warpage

[aggressive male]

Thanks guys!

[DRJDVM's '69]

I'm kind of in the same boat......my distortion is not due to warpage, its more due to crapy repop panel fitment.

I did a patch panel on the lower rear quarter and despite alot of tweaking and fitting etc, the patch just didnt turn out as well as I would have liked ...not to mention its my first body panel patch.....

So basically it looks like I'm going to have to use more filler than I would have liked.... about 3/4 of the area is great, but theres one section near the rear where the patch just didnt have the right bow to it and the seam is "sunk" in alittle

So.... any feedback on All Metal vs Metal-s-Metal as the first coat over the welded seam ? (I butt welded the patch in and have it almost ground down)