Which Lowering Springs? 3rd Gen F-Body / 78-88 G-Body / 2wd S-Truck

[HectorM52]

Okay, I think I found out some good information while I was searching. I knew there were similarities between the 2wd S-Trucks and the 78-88 G-Bodies, but i never knew the 3rd gen F-Bodies were similar as well. Can you guys confirm that? I'm not totally sure it's true, but I hope it is! Because that opens more doors for my build.


My main question is this: Besides the Hotchkis 650-lb 1-inch drop springs, what are my options on a nice and stiff front spring that drops 1 or 2 inches? I really need 2-inches, but I'll talk about 1-inch just to get the ball rolling.

What do you guys have for me?

[JWilson]

The G-Bodies and the s-Series trucks use common front suspension components as far as the spindles, uppers, lowers, etc, but I don't know if the spring rates would work between the two (don't know that they wouldn't, either). The 3rd gen's are a strut front, so I don't think any of that stuff would interchange.

[79T/Aman]

3rd gens use a conventional front spring only the shock is of strut design and yes they are similar

[JWilson]

Had an '85 back in the day. Should have paid more attention, I guess.

[HectorM52]

Sweet. Conflicting messages; I'm honestly not sure...

Anyone got any pics? I can post up mine...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_0694sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_0696sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_0697sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_0699sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_0700sized-1.jpg

[HectorM52]

PS - that's from my '85 S10. And don't make fun of my red wires!!!

[Bad94]

PS - that's from my '85 S10. And don't make fun of my red wires!!!


HA HA, look at the red wires.



There are a few different ways you can go up front,

Coils and stock lowers
Coils and aftermarket arms
Coil overs and stock arms
Coil overs and aftermarket arms

Now on too balljoints and spindles you have a very good amout of choices.
Stock
Stock balljoints and belltech spindles
Tall balljoints and belltech spindles
Tall ball joints and stock spindles
Tall ball joints and ATS spindle


What brake set up are you wanting to run? C5? Z06? Willwood? Bear?

and you know who this is dont u?

[Marcus SC&C]

Yep,3rd gen,G body and S10 springs all interchange. The problem is that factory replacement springs from the major aftermarket vendors like Moog and Dana/Spicer seems to have taken a nose dive in quality in the last few years. The Hotchkis springs would be good or you could run factory GM ZQ8 front springs (which would match your ZQ8 Blazer spindles and brakes). Do you have any pics that show the upper and lower A arms from the front at ride height? In your 4th pic it shows the upper arms angled upwards about 13*,with your short spindles that means the lower ball joint pivot axis would be higher than the pivot axis where the lower arms mount to the frame a big no no geometry wise. If that`s the case you`d need less spring drop not more and would be better off getting the extra drop you want from tall lower ball joints or drop spindles. Tall lower ball joints would also give you more droop travel,better bumpsteer and overall geometry. Or maybe you just had the springs out in that pic or it`s an optical illusion or something. :) Mark SC&C

[HectorM52]

HA HA, look at the red wires.
That's not nice! ;)




There are a few different ways you can go up front,

Coils and stock lowers
Coils and aftermarket arms
Coil overs and stock arms
Coil overs and aftermarket arms

Now on too balljoints and spindles you have a very good amout of choices.
Stock
Stock balljoints and belltech spindles
Tall balljoints and belltech spindles
Tall ball joints and stock spindles
Tall ball joints and ATS spindle

Those choices depend on what will have me running the "best" geometry.




What brake set up are you wanting to run? C5? Z06? Willwood? Bear?
The plan is to upgrade to C5 next year.



and you know who this is dont u?

Of course! God bless "unique" screen-names.

[HectorM52]

Wow, that's a lot of info for me to swallow. You're diving into things I've probably never thought about. Hence my "move" to this site. Let's see here...


Yep,3rd gen,G body and S10 springs all interchange.
Good to know! I'll consider this myth CONFIRMED!



The problem is that factory replacement springs from the major aftermarket vendors like Moog and Dana/Spicer seems to have taken a nose dive in quality in the last few years.
Okay, so those vendors are officially out of the question. You're not the first (on this site) to say that. And I'm going to heed the good advice.



The Hotchkis springs would be good or you could run factory GM ZQ8 front springs (which would match your ZQ8 Blazer spindles and brakes).
Okay, need more clarification here. Do you happen to know the rates of the ZQ8 springs? Any opinions on the "quality" of the Hotchkis vs. the OEM's? I'd suspect that Hotchkis has a leg up on "performance" but maybe the OEM's would have more "longevity." I'm running STOCK spindles - pretty sure there are no lowering spindles from the factory.

Also, will the Hotchkis springs fit well in my truck?



Do you have any pics that show the upper and lower A arms from the front at ride height? In your 4th pic it shows the upper arms angled upwards about 13*,with your short spindles that means the lower ball joint pivot axis would be higher than the pivot axis where the lower arms mount to the frame a big no no geometry wise.
Okay, here's where I want to dive deeper... I can try to get pics, but I think those pics already show the angles I'm getting. And I think I understand what you're saying about one pivot being higher than the other. My personal hypothesis on that situation is that I think it's happening due to a 3-4" drop using 4-cyl Eibach springs. I don't remember if they were supposed to be 3" or 2" drop springs from the factory. But I believe they're all the way down to 4 inches PLUS of a drop...




If that`s the case you`d need less spring drop not more and would be better off getting the extra drop you want from... ...drop spindles.
I've got 2" Belltech drop spindles in my garage ready to go on once I find the right drop springs. Sound good?



If that`s the case you`d need less spring drop not more and would be better off getting the extra drop you want from... ...tall lower ball joints.
Again, another place I want to talk about. Where can I get these?



Tall lower ball joints would also give you more droop travel,better bumpsteer and overall geometry.
Those sound like better things!



Or maybe you just had the springs out in that pic or it`s an optical illusion or something. :) Mark SC&C
Nope, I didn't take the springs out at any point. Again, I think it's because of those springs being so short that they're sucking the LCA's up causing those bad angles.

[HectorM52]

Okay, so let's take all of the components into consideration. I need a total of 5" drop for the front end to be at a "reasonable" height, which gives me a lower center of gravity as well as some "bump" room up in the fenderwells...

2" Drop = Belltech Spindles
1" Drop = Hotchkis Drop Springs
?" Drop = Tall Ball Joints???
?" Drop = Lowering Lower Control Arms???

??? TOTAL DROP


Would you guys suggest getting more drop from lowering LCA's?

[Marcus SC&C]

That`s a lot of drop. To get that much drop (5") and correct the geometry will take a little doing. First you need less spring drop than you have now. Lowrider dropped arms will keep you in the same boat so don`t bother with those. Hotchkis G body springs may get you in the ball park. The factory ZQ8 springs are advertised as 2" drop by GM and I`ve heard the rate is 579lbs/in but don`t quote me on that. Our tall lower ball joints will add about 3/4" of additional drop,they`ll improve the camber curves and correct most of the factory bumpsteer. Combine them with our tall uppers and adj. arms and you have a Stage 2 package and some serious performance geometry/performance. It`s hard to say how the altered geometry of the tall ball joints and ride height will work vs. what alignment you can get out of it with your existing fixed (UB Machine?) upper arms. The 2" drop spindles would add another 2" and put you at about 4.75" or so of drop. However they`ll also move the outter tie rod ends 2" closer to the wheels which is gonna be a problem... also is they`re regular S10 drop spindles your ZQ8 dual piston brakes won`t bolt to them and most of the shade tree C5 swaps out there are pretty scary. :scared:
AFX tall aluminum spindles you let you bolt C5 brakes right on,will give you 1" of drop and more wheel clearance than you have now. This is gonna be the hot setup performance wise if it fits your price range. On a G body it would yield a total of about 3" of drop but S10s always sat and inch or more higher in stock form so in real life you`ll probably see about 4"+ of drop vs. stock S10. If you want it lower yet try shorter cab mount bushings to lower the body over the frame without screwing up the suspension geometry. There`s more to cover but it`s hard to get it all in an internet post. Feel free to give me a call at SC&C for more info. Mark SC&C

[Bad94]

That`s a lot of drop. To get that much drop (5") and correct the geometry will take a little doing. First you need less spring drop than you have now. Lowrider dropped arms will keep you in the same boat so don`t bother with those. Hotchkis G body springs may get you in the ball park. The factory ZQ8 springs are advertised as 2" drop by GM and I`ve heard the rate is 579lbs/in but don`t quote me on that. Our tall lower ball joints will add about 3/4" of additional drop,they`ll improve the camber curves and correct most of the factory bumpsteer. Combine them with our tall uppers and adj. arms and you have a Stage 2 package and some serious performance geometry/performance. It`s hard to say how the altered geometry of the tall ball joints and ride height will work vs. what alignment you can get out of it with your existing fixed (UB Machine?) upper arms. The 2" drop spindles would add another 2" and put you at about 4.75" or so of drop. However they`ll also move the outter tie rod ends 2" closer to the wheels which is gonna be a problem... also is they`re regular S10 drop spindles your ZQ8 dual piston brakes won`t bolt to them and most of the shade tree C5 swaps out there are pretty scary. :scared:
AFX tall aluminum spindles you let you bolt C5 brakes right on,will give you 1" of drop and more wheel clearance than you have now. This is gonna be the hot setup performance wise if it fits your price range. On a G body it would yield a total of about 3" of drop but S10s always sat and inch or more higher in stock form so in real life you`ll probably see about 4"+ of drop vs. stock S10. If you want it lower yet try shorter cab mount bushings to lower the body over the frame without screwing up the suspension geometry. There`s more to cover but it`s hard to get it all in an internet post. Feel free to give me a call at SC&C for more info. Mark SC&C


Damn you posted just about the same stuff i was going to post.

What about stock spindles, hotchkis coils, tall balljoints and stock lowers and ur uppers? I know you and i talked about this set up.

And you and i have talked about my set up, and u really liked it.

[HectorM52]

Wow, it seems that this isn't your first rodeo... Keep the help coming.



That`s a lot of drop. To get that much drop (5") and correct the geometry will take a little doing. First you need less spring drop than you have now. Lowrider dropped arms will keep you in the same boat so don`t bother with those. Hotchkis G body springs may get you in the ball park.
If the Hotchkis springs are only 1" drop, do you know of a "similar" spring with a high rate that is a 2" drop? Maybe another G-body or an F-body spring?



The factory ZQ8 springs are advertised as 2" drop by GM and I`ve heard the rate is 579lbs/in but don`t quote me on that.
I assumed they would be a lower rate than the Hotchkis. I think I'll pass on the OEM's unless it's my LAST resort.



Our tall lower ball joints will add about 3/4" of additional drop,they`ll improve the camber curves and correct most of the factory bumpsteer.
Okay, you say "our" so I'm assuming I need to go to your website...



Combine them with our tall uppers
Again, I'm off to your website.



...and adj. arms and you have a Stage 2 package and some serious performance geometry/performance.
I'll check your site, but this will have to be a future thing! I'm sure they'll be outside my current budget.



It`s hard to say how the altered geometry of the tall ball joints and ride height will work vs. what alignment you can get out of it with your existing fixed (UB Machine?) upper arms.
Mine are from G-BodyParts.com. And I don't mind being the gineau pig, but I'll be asking a bunch of questions in the meantime...



The 2" drop spindles would add another 2" and put you at about 4.75" or so of drop.
You must be assuming using the ZQ8 springs. Here's my math...
2" Drop = Belltech Spindles
1" Drop = Hotchkis Drop Springs
3/4" Drop = Tall LOWER Ball Joints

3 3/4" TOTAL DROP

How can I get that extra 3/4 to 1 inch of drop?



However they`ll also move the outter tie rod ends 2" closer to the wheels which is gonna be a problem...
WHY? Does the lowering spindle just lower the "center" of the hub & spindle assembly, therefore also is lowering the tie rod anchor??? It seems they (Belltech) would have left the anchor in the stock location, no??


if they`re regular S10 drop spindles your ZQ8 dual piston brakes won`t bolt to them and most of the shade tree C5 swaps out there are pretty scary. :scared:
There is a guy out there (Ed Miller, if you've heard of him) that's making decent looking brackets for a C5 swap to the Belltech 2102 spindle. Apparently he's honed it down to a science and it's working pretty well. But that's for a future upgrade either way, so don't worry about brakes (yet)!!



AFX tall aluminum spindles you let you bolt C5 brakes right on,will give you 1" of drop and more wheel clearance than you have now. This is gonna be the hot setup performance wise if it fits your price range. On a G body it would yield a total of about 3" of drop but S10s always sat and inch or more higher in stock form so in real life you`ll probably see about 4"+ of drop vs. stock S10.
Hmm. I'm not sure I see how I'd see 4"+ drop when a G-body would only see 3", but it doesn't matter because the AFX spindles are out of my price range and I think I can get by (for now) with the stuff I have in hand. Again, FUTURE upgrade!



If you want it lower yet try shorter cab mount bushings to lower the body over the frame without screwing up the suspension geometry. There`s more to cover but it`s hard to get it all in an internet post. Feel free to give me a call at SC&C for more info. Mark SC&C

I'd love to see a link to those bushings...

And, THANKS!! I'll probably be calling you sometime in the next few weeks/months! But I'll do some more research on your site and this one first!

[Bad94]

There is a guy out there (Ed Miller, if you've heard of him) that's making decent looking brackets for a C5 swap to the Belltech 2102 spindle. Apparently he's honed it down to a science and it's working pretty well. But that's for a future upgrade either way, so don't worry about brakes (yet)!!


When you are ready to do C5 please let me know, i will hook you up on brackets.

As you can see in my thread im making them for S-10s now.

[HectorM52]

When you are ready to do C5 please let me know, i will hook you up on brackets.

As you can see in my thread im making them for S-10s now.
I did see that. Didn't know what your application was, though. Didn't look like a 2102 spindle so I didn't mention it!

[Bad94]

I did see that. Didn't know what your application was, though. Didn't look like a 2102 spindle so I didn't mention it!

Thats the blazer spindle right? I have a set sitting on my work table right now,

[HectorM52]

Okay, here are the pics of the truck sitting on the ground.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_1586sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_1587sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_1588sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_1589sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_1590sized-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/09/IMG_1591sized-1.jpg

[HectorM52]

Thats the blazer spindle right? I have a set sitting on my work table right now,
Yes. It is the BELLTECH Blazer drop-spindle.

Now please do 'em up right!!

[Marcus SC&C]

Wow! Bump travel? What bump travel? :doh: You really need less spring drop to the some bump travel back and get the lower arms properly oriented. The truck will drive and handle a lot better too.
The reason I mention different amounts of "drop" on G body and S10 with the same springs and basic suspension is that S10`s had a higher factory ride height to start with. Don`t look to springs for more drop you need springs with less drop to straighten out the geometry and get travel back. Then you can worry about getting the stance where you want it. First things first.
The reason drop spindles reduce tie rod end clearance is because the steering arm stays where is but the spindle pin (or in this case the hub/bearing pack) is moves up 2" on the spindle,taking the wheel and tire with it. Since the truck sits on the tires it drops 2" but you`ve lost 2" of tie rod/wheel rim clearance. You don`t have 2" which means you have to switch to narrower wheels with less backspacing to use the drop spindles. I pretty sure you don`t want to do that. A 1" drop AFX spindle will work though because the steering arms are higher and shorter than the stock ones to improve the steering geometry. They`ll clear your existing wheels no sweat.
The tall lower ball joints move the steering arms up with the wheel/tire so they don`t cause any clearance issues. I hope I`m not just confusing you more here!
Yeah,those are UB Machine arms,that`s what G-bopy parts sells.
Bad94, good combo. Even better with the tall upper ball joints too, making it a good ol Stage 2 package.
C5 brake conversion on the dual piston Blazer spindles are cool (and really easy). Many of them done on typical single piston S10 spindles are not. But then they`re totally different animals.
Again,it`s hard to cover all this at once and make sense of it in internet posts (although the pics help a LOT). Mark SC&C

[HectorM52]

Wow! Bump travel? What bump travel? :doh: You really need less spring drop to the some bump travel back and get the lower arms properly oriented. The truck will drive and handle a lot better too.
I think I finally just figured out what you're talking about when you say "bump travel!" You must be talking about the clearance between the LCA and the bottom of the frame, right??? Because I see where there's only a TINY bit of clearance there. And I get a nice CLUNK when I go into my driveway too fast. Bet that's where that noise is coming from!!!



The reason I mention different amounts of "drop" on G body and S10 with the same springs and basic suspension is that S10`s had a higher factory ride height to start with.
I'm with you. But do you agree that I need MORE drop since I'm starting higher?



Don`t look to springs for more drop you need springs with less drop to straighten out the geometry and get travel back. Then you can worry about getting the stance where you want it. First things first.
I agree with you. My question is this, I've established I can get around 3 3/4" of drop, but where does the other inch come from?



The reason drop spindles reduce tie rod end clearance is because the steering arm stays where is but the spindle pin (or in this case the hub/bearing pack) is moves up 2" on the spindle,taking the wheel and tire with it. Since the truck sits on the tires it drops 2" but you`ve lost 2" of tie rod/wheel rim clearance. You don`t have 2" which means you have to switch to narrower wheels with less backspacing to use the drop spindles. I pretty sure you don`t want to do that.
How have you confirmed this? I'm with you by saying that the hub assembly moves up on the spindle, but don't you think that Belltech would have also moved the eyelet for the tie-rod as well? It seems to me like they would have had some issues if they sent out a product that didn't work with the majority of combinations. Or are you saying that my combination is out of the ordinary?



A 1" drop AFX spindle will work though because the steering arms are higher and shorter than the stock ones to improve the steering geometry. They`ll clear your existing wheels no sweat.
Sounds good. But expensive too.



The tall lower ball joints move the steering arms up with the wheel/tire so they don`t cause any clearance issues. I hope I`m not just confusing you more here!
No, I'm following you. 10-4, good buddy. You're saying they won't hurt my clearance. But you're also saying they wont HELP the clearance, right?



Yeah,those are UB Machine arms,that`s what G-bopy parts sells.
What is your opinion on the arms?



C5 brake conversion on the dual piston Blazer spindles are cool (and really easy).
Glad to hear that.



Again,it`s hard to cover all this at once and make sense of it in internet posts (although the pics help a LOT). Mark SC&C
No problem. You're helping more than you can imagine. I also emailed you at the link in your sig.

Thanks again.

[Marcus SC&C]

I think I finally just figured out what you're talking about when you say "bump travel!" You must be talking about the clearance between the LCA and the bottom of the frame, right??? Because I see where there's only a TINY bit of clearance there. And I get a nice CLUNK when I go into my driveway too fast. Bet that's where that noise is coming from!!!

BINGO! You hit the nail right on the head.

I agree with you. My question is this, I've established I can get around 3 3/4" of drop, but where does the other inch come from?

Heh,it`s hard to type this kind of thing in a way that people can wrap their brain around it. What I`m saying is that stock G body springs made a G body sit lower with the same basic suspension than an S10 with stock S10 springs. Put G body lowering springs into an S10 (going from one model to another) and you`ll likely get a bit more drop on the S10,because it was higher to begin with. The spring isn`t any shorter it`s just that the S10 started out higher which makes the "drop" from stock height more.

How have you confirmed this? I'm with you by saying that the hub assembly moves up on the spindle, but don't you think that Belltech would have also moved the eyelet for the tie-rod as well? It seems to me like they would have had some issues if they sent out a product that didn't work with the majority of combinations. Or are you saying that my combination is out of the ordinary?

By dealing with customer cars with drop spindles for the last couple decades. It real easy to measure. Read the sticky on this forum about the problems with traditional drop spindles. Don`t take my word for it,take your wheel,wheel adapter and rotor off,put them on the drop spindles and see if you`ve got room for the tie rod ends. You`re running what about 7.5" of back spacing with a 2.5" adapter? That would give you 5" BS which is too much for that chassis with 2" drop spindles. Drop back to stock wheels with 3.75" BS and they`ll work fine. Based on your pics you won`t. Traditional drop spindle manufacturers don`t move the steering arm because they don`t want to alter the factory geometry (even though it could use some help). Altering it requires doing the R&D and testing to see how and where to move it and why. Leaving it where it`s at is easy.

No, I'm following you. 10-4, good buddy. You're saying they won't hurt my clearance. But you're also saying they wont HELP the clearance, right?

You got it. But they will help lower the truck,improve the geometry and go a long way toward correcting the factory bumpsteer. Mark SC&C

[HectorM52]

Heh,it`s hard to type this kind of thing in a way that people can wrap their brain around it. What I`m saying is that stock G body springs made a G body sit lower with the same basic suspension than an S10 with stock S10 springs. Put G body lowering springs into an S10 (going from one model to another) and you`ll likely get a bit more drop on the S10,because it was higher to begin with. The spring isn`t any shorter it`s just that the S10 started out higher which makes the "drop" from stock height more.
Yeah, I think I'm catching on to what you're saying. But what I'm REALLY asking is this: What other component can I add to the equation to get another inch of drop? We've established that I can get 3 3/4" with MY suggested setup (which I don't think will work now :crying: ) My goal is ~4.5" of drop TOTAL.



By dealing with customer cars with drop spindles for the last couple decades. It real easy to measure. Read the sticky on this forum about the problems with traditional drop spindles. Don`t take my word for it,take your wheel,wheel adapter and rotor off,put them on the drop spindles and see if you`ve got room for the tie rod ends. You`re running what about 7.5" of back spacing with a 2.5" adapter? That would give you 5" BS which is too much for that chassis with 2" drop spindles. Drop back to stock wheels with 3.75" BS and they`ll work fine. Based on your pics you won`t. Traditional drop spindle manufacturers don`t move the steering arm because they don`t want to alter the factory geometry (even though it could use some help). Altering it requires doing the R&D and testing to see how and where to move it and why. Leaving it where it`s at is easy.
Again, that's not what I wanted to hear! :crying:




You got it. But they will help lower the truck,improve the geometry and go a long way toward correcting the factory bumpsteer.

Then it sounds like these are a DEFINITE on my list!

[Marcus SC&C]

"Drop" is a terribly misleading term,drop compared to what? GM used half a dozen different springs in S10s, they all sat a little different. Which one does the "drop" refer to? Then we throw engine swaps,changing springs from one vehicle to another and such into the mix and really muddy the water. Let`s try this instead. How much lower do you want to go than you are now? You`ll get about 3/4" or so of drop from the tall LBJs. Of course you`ll still have hardly any bump travel. Add 3/4" of bump travel with springs that have less "drop" and you`ll have the ride height back where you started BUT the truck will ride,handle and drive a LOT better. That`s about all you`re gonna get out of the parts you have so you have to ask yourself which is more important,a super low ride height or safety/performance/driveability? You can have another 2" of drop from your 2" Belltechs but you`ll have to go to narrower front wheels with a lot less backspacing. This is one reason why you don`t see S10 lowriders with really wide tires in the front. Another tradeoff. Go to AFX spindles and you can have more drop AND keep your wide wheels/tires. Yeah that costs more money but the best parts are seldom the cheapest. Nothin new there. :) Mark SC&C

[carson]

I just read all of this and I'm in the same boat. I need 5" of drop in the front, and I need it to perform too. I'm not at all against coil-overs, but I am on a budget. I know alot of people piece their own coil-overs together from different companies in order to get the right drops and spring rates, but I don't know enough to choose a setup like that on my own.

The correct way to get that low would be to use a LCA instead of a spring, right?

I was looking at these, http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1197but I'm not sure if those arms are lowered any or if they are stock height. Also, I can't find any G-body upper control arms that aren't made for the tall spindle.

I guess I should tell yall what I have done up to this point-----
-Front tire size is 255/45-18 on an 18x8.5 wheel
-Belltech 3" drop springs
-S-10 2" drop spindles
-Ed Miller's 12" LS1 F-body brake hubs and brackets
-12" F-body brakes
-all new energy suspension bushings
-ZQ8 sway bar and steering box
-and a set of old, cheap, worn out Belltech shocks

I appreciate all of the help,
Carson

P.S. I didn't mean to hijack your thread Hector

[HectorM52]

No problem. I'm all about getting as much info as possible in one place.

[Marcus SC&C]

Carson,the Spohn lower arms don`t have any additional drop built into them. Be carefull of some of the arms that do. I`ve seen some that were 1) really junk 2) SUPER HEAVY. Spohn does make a dropped coilover arms for us for S10 and G body. Used with a 3.50 travel Varishock coil over you should be able to get the truck as low as you`d ever want it,especially combined with 2" drop spindles. I`m still not a fan of letting ride height dictate everything else though. The geometry and proper suspension travel are much more important. You can get the super low ride height with decent geometry but be prepared to make some tradeoffs in front wheel/tire size and/or add to your allowed budget. Mark SC&C

[carson]

I know what you mean about basing everything on ride height, and I honestly didn't intend on that being the case, it was just how it ended up sitting with all of the current parts on it and I somewhat based the tire/wheel sizes off of that.(and it just looks badass) I know I'll never see a perfect set up on the front, I'd just like to get the best possible right now. By saying that Spohn makes an arm for "us" do you mean that you sell them? If so could you shoot me a price for them and the coil-overs?

Thanks,
Carson

[Samckitt]

and most of the shade tree C5 swaps out there are pretty scary. :scared:

Marcus, What are some of the things you are referring to that you say these are scary?
Scot

[carson]

Marcus, did you forget about us?

[Bad94]

Marcus, did you forget about us?


I talked to him and he is swamped at the shop.


I will be calling him in a few days, and talk rear suspension set ups.

[Marcus SC&C]

Sorry guys,like Bad94 said we`ve been really swamped (which is a GOOD thing!). Times like this I could use more of me to go around!

Carson,yep I mean they make them for us. You can find them on our site under Spohn Performance Products with pics and prices. The Varishock coilover arms are the same price as the regular coil over version. We also have a whole new series of lower A arms coming out from SPC (makers of our adj. uppers). We`ve been working with them for about 20 months on the design and R&D and are expecting the first production G body arms in the next week or so. They`re also designed to work with the Varishock coil overs but have a number of built in geometry improvements,the ability to use new GM jounce bumpers,better strength/weight ratio,std. greasable delrin bushings etc. The Spohn arms are great pieces but these are another rung up on the evolutionary ladder. :twothumbs

Scot, the brake issues have been covered here a bunch of times and I don`t want to derail the thread. Most revolve around inadequate mounting points and weak hubs. From your sig it looks like you took a much better approach and used ZQ8 spindles for yours. That`s a much smarter way to go about it. Mark SC&C

[HectorM52]

Ooooh, I'm excited.

Marcus, I'm about 65% of the way to purchasing your stage 2 setup - whatever one is about $1294 or so (if I remember correctly).

By the time I get to 100% - will you have those new arms ready? I'd like to get them too. AND, how much will they add to the kit that I want (the one for $1290 or so...).

Later,
Adam

[Samckitt]

Cool, thanks Marcus.

[Bad94]

Mark, i know how you feel. Im swamped right now. I just need 20 mins to call you.



Ooooh, I'm excited.

Marcus, I'm about 65% of the way to purchasing your stage 2 setup - whatever one is about $1294 or so (if I remember correctly).

By the time I get to 100% - will you have those new arms ready? I'd like to get them too. AND, how much will they add to the kit that I want (the one for $1290 or so...).

Later,
Adam


Adam, What are you doing for the rear? Leafs?

[HectorM52]

The rear - what's that? I've got $700 or so and I need another $500 or so to get the stuff for the front. Then I've got to source the calipers & hangers & pads. So the rear is just a twinkle in my eye...

But the plan is to get some "cal-trac" type bars so I can get some adjustability with what I've already got. (you know where I can get some of those? ;) )

Then upgrade to an 8.5 rear with posi & 3.73 gears.

Then waaaaay later 4-link it.

That's probably about it.

[Bad94]

The rear - what's that? I've got $700 or so and I need another $500 or so to get the stuff for the front. Then I've got to source the calipers & hangers & pads. So the rear is just a twinkle in my eye...

But the plan is to get some "cal-trac" type bars so I can get some adjustability with what I've already got. (you know where I can get some of those? ;) )



Then upgrade to an 8.5 rear with posi & 3.73 gears.

Then waaaaay later 4-link it.

That's probably about it.

Sure dont know were you could get them.:hmm: :naughty:


i guess you will like me around spring time comes and i post rear set up pic on the 94.

[HectorM52]

Sure dont know were you could get them.:hmm: :naughty:


i guess you will like me around spring time comes and i post rear set up pic on the 94.
My guess is that I'll like you LESS!! :) :)

[firefighter]

Hector I officially hate you now. lol Now I'm convinced my Belltech/C5/Eibach spring is absolute crap I don't even want to look under my truck. I'm going to do the Z51 brakes ATS spindles and go to the QA1's and the Global West arms with the 8.5" and the Triangulated 4 link in the azz but some one mentioned a "satchel" 4 link out back so that is up in the air.

Loooks like I got a Blazer/C5 set up for sale with LS1 rears

[firefighter]

Oh crap first post up there....

Hello everybody I'm Persio and I haunt the Dime sites on a pretty regular basis, for the guys who don't know me.

[HectorM52]

Hector I officially hate you now. lol Now I'm convinced my Belltech/C5/Eibach spring is absolute crap I don't even want to look under my truck. I'm going to do the Z51 brakes ATS spindles and go to the QA1's and the Global West arms with the 8.5" and the Triangulated 4 link in the azz but some one mentioned a "satchel" 4 link out back so that is up in the air.

Loooks like I got a Blazer/C5 set up for sale with LS1 rears
And I guess I'll be taking the C5 stuff off your hands over the winter.

...SERIOUSLY...

[Bad94]

Hector I officially hate you now. lol Now I'm convinced my Belltech/C5/Eibach spring is absolute crap I don't even want to look under my truck. I'm going to do the Z51 brakes ATS spindles and go to the QA1's and the Global West arms with the 8.5" and the Triangulated 4 link in the azz but some one mentioned a "satchel" 4 link out back so that is up in the air.

Loooks like I got a Blazer/C5 set up for sale with LS1 rears


What you want for the LS1 rear set up?

[firefighter]

Dude you and your brother are allready getting my Blazer stuff what am I gonna stop with? LOL. I really haven't thought about it yet. They were new backing plates when I got the set up. If I remember they were about $350 for the pair. IDK just conversatin. lol

[firefighter]

Oh just so all yall know I think I've officially bit off more than I can chew. Lets go over the next 10 months worth of projects.

1) Blower..... give me a call guys (bad/boosted)
2) Poss an '82 Vette CE absolute deal that can't be passed up (most likely) gonna flip it and then get the wife another Vette... yes it's for her not me.
3) Found a house fixer upper 100K under market value needs 25K worth of work then it will be worth it. Oh and I'm keeping my current house as a rental.
4) finish the '65 C10
5) all this while I watch my 16 month old son on my days off from the fire house.
6) study for a promotional exam for the fire dept

Thank GAWD the new house has a oversized 2 car garage.......

I DON'T WANNA HEAR ANYBODY CRY ABOUT NOT HAVING ANY TIME........ LOL


Somebody shoot me NOW. :doh:

[Eric Howell]

Triangulated 4 link in the azz but some one mentioned a "satchel" 4 link out back so that is up in the air.Wonder who that was? :naughty:

Hey guy's didn't know you were all here too.

Eric