just bought a 400...who wants to do some bench racing?

[RobM]

just bought a 400 small block... looking to do somthing kind of differant with this engine that what is typical... any sugestions on some differant directions i could go with it?

I dont really want to spend more then 5 grand, and alot less than 5 would be cool too. this is just a winter project that im building for the hell of it. Its going to be the next motor for my camaro, or what ever else i pick up.

I want over 500 hp and it needs to run well on pump gas. somthing that turns over 7000 rpm would be fun

lets hear some ideas!

[Project69]

De-stroked!

[RobM]

that could be cool but ive never seen a destroked 400 that makes very impressive power?

[RobM]

by the way that price i quoted doesn't inclued machine work, prepping the block or build labor. 5k in parts

[RSX302]

My 2 Pennies..

A sb 400 at 10:1 with decent aluminum heads, single plain manifold, 850 carb and a good performance street cam shoulg get you about 500hp/500tq pulling to about 6000rpm. Depending on the quality of the parts you buy, this could fit nicely within a $5000 budget. You might even be able to have extra for some nice polished or chromed parts.

Over 500hp! Higher rpm! Pump Gas, Something different?
Not to rain on your parade, but this is were your funds will probably runnith over.

I would say that if you stay with basic aftermarket performance parts and add a blower to the mix, you might be able to stay at your mark. That's not really different is it? Basic parts don’t like RPM or massive power. Keep it to 5psi boost and run around 8.5:1 and it will run nice on pump gas with a little extra kick. 550hp/550tq at the same rpm.

[RobM]

hm might need to raise the ol' budget. even though what im thinking is if I really want to go for some big power i should be working with an aftermarket block. I cant see investing allot in a factory block. maybe I should keep this one a little on the tame side and go big with a purpose built block

[Project69]

Factory blocks are good to atleast 1000 from what ive seen.

[RobM]

well 500 hp in a *set up car* can push a high 10 second pass and thats prety quick for a street car. that just may curb my craving for more power for the time being. I don't need a smooth running engine i just need it to not over heat and run on pump gas.

[RSX302]

At the hp numbers you're talking, I don't think I would be to concerned about the block so much as the parts you put in it. You won't need to go crazy, but just good middle of the road aftermarket stuff. The strongest block still doesn't mean squat if its internals come apart and vise versa. Whatever road you pic, just do a little upfront homework and get the parts that will handle your horsepower.

Extra note: All your hp is made with intake, cam and heads, so depending on how much you spend here will determine how strong you will need to build the bottom. And when you get over 6500rpm, plan on extra $ for valvetrain upgrades. (Valve Springs, shaft mount rockers, Ti retainers, bigger push rods, solid rollers, Timing gears drive, etc)

You can spend $5000 on heads alone..believe me...They work!

You get what you pay for!

Overbuilding cost you wasted money, but under building costs you wasted money and frustration....

[nicks67camaro]

And when you get over 6500rpm, plan on extra $ for valvetrain upgrades. (Valve Springs, shaft mount rockers, Ti retainers, bigger push rods, solid rollers, Timing gears drive, etc)


Overbuilding cost you wasted money, but under building costs you wasted money and frustration....

I agree with Ron make sure the money is spend on good heads, intake and ignition.

I love my sb400. my old 400 had a bone stock bottom end, afr195cc street heads, victor jr, msd 6al w/pro billet, comp cams hyr xtre 4x4 grind (don't know the grid #'s) and a holley 650 dbl pumper mech. sec. it was my college build budget motor and it ran hard. went smooth to 6300 but wouldn't push it past it!

I have since went to a solid roller, afr's 210cc, same ignition, longer rods more machine work. The cost was much greater for a package that needs more attention. The motor has the rev limiter at 6800 and will pull fast and hard to it.

The next rebuild I will go with a different set of afr's (mine are cut to 64cc with a 0 decked block) different rods and pistons. Destroke with 5-10lbs of boost.

[Samckitt]

that could be cool but ive never seen a destroked 400 that makes very impressive power?

A Chevy NASCAR engines is basically a de-stroked 400. According to the rules the motor can be a maximum 358 cubes, the new R07 engines allows a maximum 4.185 bore. So if you use the max bore & do the math, with a 3.25" stroke you get 357 cubes.

A 400 block with a .030" overbore = 4.155" & if you use a 3.25 stroke crank you get 352 cubes. Use 6" (or longer) rods & some aluminum heads (maybe some GM Aluminum "fast burn" Vortech) & you have a screamer. Or build it like a NASCAR motor & put some SB2 heads on it (Insert Tim Allen grunt here). Would cost you a fortune.

[Kenova]

At the hp numbers you're talking, I don't think I would be to concerned about the block so much as the parts you put in it. You won't need to go crazy, but just good middle of the road aftermarket stuff. The strongest block still doesn't mean squat if its internals come apart and vise versa. Whatever road you pic, just do a little upfront homework and get the parts that will handle your horsepower.

Extra note: All your hp is made with intake, cam and heads, so depending on how much you spend here will determine how strong you will need to build the bottom. And when you get over 6500rpm, plan on extra $ for valvetrain upgrades. (Valve Springs, shaft mount rockers, Ti retainers, bigger push rods, solid rollers, Timing gears drive, etc)

You can spend $5000 on heads alone..believe me...They work!

This sounds just like the route I would take. Buy a good rotating assembly, the best heads you are willing to pony up the cash for, and a valve train to meet the potential of the heads.
Go for a set of AFR's 195 Eliminators. Some would say they are a little on the small side, but with the right cam and intake you can easily hit your target of 500 hp/tq and still have something that will respond well on the street or in traffic.

Ken

[Z-man]

I'm sorry, but I'm the only one allowed to do an unusual 400 sb... :)

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[RobM]

real nice engine man!

well i dont think this block will be usable its already bored .030 over and the cylenders need re boring. theres no way im going to invest a in a .060 over 400 for high performance

[slowcamaro]

Do they need to go all the way to .060 over or will they clean up at .040? I wouldnt push it any rather than .040 over unless its sonic checked though.

[RobM]

no .010 won't cut it on this one. its a damn shame these 400's are getting hard to find.

[Texas Hotrod]

Is it a 4-bolt main block with 6 freeze plugs (3 on each side) or is it a 2-bolt main with 4 freeze plugs and a 509 casting?
The 509 is a high nickel block and stronger than the plane-jane blocks, and stronger than the 4-bolt blocks. I've seen these go .060 over with out any issues and still hold up to abuse. My brother had his on nitrous and 6500 rpm with stock internals and it held up fine for a long time.
I wouldn't put as much faifth in a non-509 though.

I have used 400s in all of my personal projects. My last car has a 671 blower on top of a basically stock bottom end 509 that's .040 over. My present project will be a twin turbo 406/408 (depending on over bore size) with Eagle internals.
Bigger is better, no sense in destroking the thing.

[badbu68]

400 block + 327 crank + dual t04s + blow through carb = sounds fun to me.

[jlmccuan]

I'm sort of in the same situation, virgin 400 block, D1 Procharger, and empty engine stand. I'm thinking Eagle stroker crank. Any one put one of these in a Chevy block? Any problems clearancing the pan rails and bottoms of cylinders? My block should clean up at .010 over. Would you go to .030 anyway?

[slowcamaro]

I'm sort of in the same situation, virgin 400 block, D1 Procharger, and empty engine stand. I'm thinking Eagle stroker crank. Any one put one of these in a Chevy block? Any problems clearancing the pan rails and bottoms of cylinders? My block should clean up at .010 over. Would you go to .030 anyway?

If you can find off the shelf pistons in .010 over for the compression ratio you are shooting for then I personally would bore it to the minimum that it would clean up at.

My virgin bore block had to go to .030 over because I couldnt afford the extra expense of custom pistons or wait the needed amount of time.

[Texas Hotrod]

400 blocks are already "clearanced" since they are already stroked. The stock cranks are generally a strong item because of the bigger main shafts.
The only problem I have seen is when using stock 350 rods in a 400 block with a 400 crank. If the cam is pretty healthy there's contact between 2 cam lobes and the back sides of 2 rod bolts.

[jlmccuan]

I guess my concern is on using a 4" stroker crank and "H" beam rods. How much has to be removed? What's the best way to resolve the cam interference? Depending on overbore you get 427-434CID

[MonzaRacer]

Factory blocks are good to atleast 1000 from what ive seen.
OK 060 over bore, use the 421 rotating assembly here http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevy_rotating.html.
dont go hog wild on the heads and keep it well under 7000rpm as the 400 isnt an rpm motor, build it for max torque on bottom and midrange.
with any 400 block unless you block fill it you will get cyl flex and loose lots of power.
I prefer to let the roundy rounders buy 400 blocks and order up a Dart or World block and will usually make around 50 -75 more hp from same setup.
AND the World/Dart blocks are much betteramterial, last longer and less machinework too.
AFR 215 heads and a decent cam with lots of lift but keep the duration lower, dont try to rev the snot out of it nad I would never boost a stock block this far over.
Build torque and love the ride.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE