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69TA
09-21-2007, 08:35 PM
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Lawrence
09-22-2007, 04:28 AM
I've got a '95 LT1 in a '68 Camaro. It's running an external pump but is noisy and stalls when your under a 1/4 of a tank and corner too hard. I'd try and get the pump in the tank if you can. Good luck!

GeoffP
09-22-2007, 05:51 AM
Here's a few things I learned in my swap:

The 4th gen radiator is too wide - it won't fit between the frame rails
The 4th gen gas tank is triangle shaped - it definitely won't fit under the car. I used an external pump and modified the original tank pickup for a 3/8" fuel return
The 94 PCM system is a good system - with the right wiring diagrams, it is fairly easy to modify and install in a 1st gen. I ended up using 3 relays (1 for the fuel pump and 2 for radiator fans)

I am glad to help out if you have any questions. I just completed my swap this summer and am in the middle of upgrading the cam to a CC305.

69TA
09-22-2007, 01:38 PM
Lawrence, good info...Ill see what I can do about fab'n up the 94' Formula's fuel pump in my factory 69' Tank.

GeoffP, Think it would be easier to just order the Painless wiring Harness w/ the 4' extra length? Its got instructions, fuses, relays, VATS bypass..etc..? I should have more pics tomorrow of the build as I almost got the LT1 out of the 94'Formula today...

I appreciate the help and advice! :cheers:

Lawrence
09-23-2007, 01:21 AM
Its not that hard to use a factory loom and strip out what you dont need, but you may end up extending it if you plan on hiding the PCM. I ended up doing it on my '55 and it was a lot of hard work but suited me as I had more time than money. If you want the wiring diagrams, drop me a mail and I'll mail you back with them.

GeoffP
09-23-2007, 12:02 PM
Lawrence is correct. It isn't hard to adapt the factory harness (which can save you a pretty good sum of $$$). I mounted my PCM in the factory bracket on the passenger fender well, all the way to the rear towards the heater box. I had enough extra wire in the main harness that I could've easily mounted it under the dash in the glove box area. I chose not to because I wanted to retain the glove box and have room for a Vintage Air unit in the future. I'm sure you've already checked, but just in case you haven't, be sure the Painless harness p/n you chose (if you go that route) specifically says it'll control the 4L60E.

Hth - feel free to ask more questions as you have them.

GT500KR_Vert
09-23-2007, 01:26 PM
FuelSafe can make you a fuel cell with a internal pump.
http://www.fuelsafe.com/custom.htm

Or Rick's Hot Rods: http://www.rickshotrodshop.com/custom.htm

69TA
09-24-2007, 01:16 PM
Well I got the LT1 out of the formula. Me and one other guy took it out lastnight. Took us 5-hours.. I pulled the engine and tranny straight out. Had to cut the radiator support & take the oil filter off.. The wiring harness is 100% intact, so I am going to go ahead and use it. I already have the LT1 on an engine stand. Took the A/C compressor and manifolds off. Im going to put a 2800-3200 stahl and a set of Hooker super comp headers on it. That should make the ol' 69'TA slingshot!:smoke: Ill go take some more pics today.

Heres a few websites that I have found that will hopefully help me(along with some of you on here) with the swap. Maybe this will help others on here too..
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4955/camaro1.html?200721

http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=76
And this picture:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

69TA
09-24-2007, 05:41 PM
Im going to buy a set of headers for this LT1...Whats the best headers to get and wheres the cheapest place to buy a set? Hooker super comps? Long tubes?

curly
09-24-2007, 06:03 PM
Don't forget the website below. It has one of the most detailed LT1 parts listings / schematics that I have been able to find.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

Beautiful car (the '69 Firebird is one of my favorites)!!

As far as long tube headers, I would get coated Pacesetters (inexpensive) or Kooks (expensive) but are all stainless construction. I have Jet hots on my '95 T/A (which are Hooker design) but I'm not real happy with clearance issues with them. Other than that, they are excellent headers. If I ever buy new ones, I am going with Kooks.

LS69TA
09-24-2007, 06:18 PM
Hey Kevin..I'm going to be following in your footsteps once again hopefully. The car looks great.

69TA
09-25-2007, 11:27 AM
I know that the headers for a LT1 in a 1st gen is a confusing subject, but I was told by someone that I NEED to use 1st gen sbc headers that have 1 3/4" square ports? Is this true? Will the circle ports work? 1 5/8" or 1 7/8"?

Im asking, because Ive only seen circle port 1 5/8" & 1 7/8" for 1st gen small block headers for sale.....

Samckitt
09-25-2007, 11:31 AM
I have 1 5/8" circular port ones on the LT1 in the Monte & don't have a problem. The headers are made for the 305 that came in the car.

69TA
09-25-2007, 11:58 AM
Okay thanks! Ill just use the circle port 1 5/8" headers.

69TA
09-25-2007, 12:41 PM
Where can I buy a set of 69' sbc headers for under $200 bucks that will work with angle plug heads?

JACK_BURTON55
09-25-2007, 12:43 PM
just curious, what motor was in the car? and any reason besides the avalability of that LT1 that you didnt go LS series?

GeoffP
09-25-2007, 01:07 PM
If he's like me, he didn't go LS because of the cost. An LT1 can be transplanted into a 1st gen on the CHEAP and is easy to adapt without costly adapters, pulleys, brackets, etc.

BTW, I used 1 5/8" circle port headers with mine - no problem. In fact I have never had a problem using circle port headers on any LT1.

Hth!

EDIT - I am using Blackjack/Dynomax headers. They're the basic p/n for SBC in a 1st gen Camaro.

69TA
09-25-2007, 01:17 PM
Im like GeoffP. Cheaper + I ran into a deal I couldnt pass up on a 94' Formula donor car. :twothumbs

paul67
09-25-2007, 01:42 PM
Just bought a set from summit part number SUM -G9001-9 ceramic coated $178, drivers side no problem and I have angled plugs , pass hit were I feed the comp wiring through,having to relocate , aim for above rocker cover or center to miss,will post pic's if needed but will have to be wednesday.

69TA
09-25-2007, 02:00 PM
I have read some of your threads on headers fitting a Gen1 w/ an lt1..Looks like im not the only one. =)
The Summit website for those headers say: 58 - Will NOT fit angle plug heads.

And they do fit?

Taylor1969
09-25-2007, 02:02 PM
Okay thanks! Ill just use the circle port 1 5/8" headers.

I love my Doug Thorley Tri-Y's

If you find a 10% off coupon you can get the chrome version from autoanything.com for $350 shipped

paul67
09-25-2007, 02:42 PM
Looks like I need to post pic's

alocker
09-25-2007, 04:02 PM
FYI, LT1 heads are D-Ports. I have coated Dynomax cheapo 1 5/8" headers and they work fine. I use the stock 2 core chevelle radiator and it runs at 160 all day. LT1's seem to cool easier than GEN I SBC.

For your fuses and relays, get the one on top of the link below. Its cheap and the instructions are a nice reference tool. http://www.currentperformance.com/Accessories/wiring_acc.html


SOLDER AND SHRINK WRAP EVERY CONNECTION! It takes more time but is the only correct way to do it. If you use crimps, dont cry when your left on the side of the road. I used an MSD Dutsch connector for easy engine removal. A little swap info below.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169487&highlight=lt-1

69TA
09-25-2007, 04:40 PM
Ahh nice website alocker. I probably will go ahead and get that fuse/relay wiring. Your Chevelle looks very nice 2!! Thanks man.

Paul if they fit, then I guess they fit. Dynomax, Hooker super comp, Summit, & 99% of the headers you see say they WILL NOT work with angle plug heads. The Doug Thorley's say they WILL fit though... And everyone with an LT1 gen1 swap, then say they fit on their LT1s...This is probably why its so confusing for an lt1 header conversion on a 1st gen for people...Damn header companies... =)

paul67
09-26-2007, 06:34 AM
Here are the pics

69TA
09-27-2007, 06:36 PM
They do fit eh? Nice! I found a old pair of sbc headers(dont know what brand) laying in my shop. They have surface rust, but are in good shape. I just got done sanding them down today and am going to paint them with high-temp 1200degree black ceramic paint. They look identical to yours though, and they fit good. Im still workn' on pics....

lt1chevelle
09-28-2007, 12:56 PM
do you live in livermore,ca i seen a car just likes yours around town

69TA
09-28-2007, 04:35 PM
Wasnt mine. Im in Ohio. Your Chevelle is lookn' SWEET. Cant wait to see you finish it. Im still working on getting my LT1 together so I can bolt it in the 69'. I have the tranny being rebuilt as we speak also.

69TA
09-29-2007, 05:08 PM
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69TA
10-14-2007, 11:41 AM
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GeoffP
10-14-2007, 05:40 PM
Is there any particular reason you're using solid mounts? Doesn't that introduce a lot of extra noise to the chassis of the car that then gets transmitted into the interior? Just curious. As far as the trans mount is concerned, no - it's not a direct fit. A friend of mine used a TH400 cross member, cut the mounting pad off the rear and moved it to the front side. I think he also slotted the holes where it bolts to the frame. Since I put in a T-56, I used a BMR cross member.

Hth...

barno68
10-15-2007, 07:18 AM
I used a TH350 cross-member and lined up the front bolt holes with the rear subframe x-member holes and re-drilled the rears. This moved it back around 3". I then drilled one hole in the center of the stock mounting pad for the trans mount. Took all of about 15 minutes. Can't talk to the T56.

Brent

69TA
10-18-2007, 08:10 PM
Thx for all the help so far! I went ahead and bought some new motor mounts and they are NOT solid ones. I got it bolted in place. Next is fab'n up the cross member..thx for the advice on doing that...then driveshaft. After that is the fun part.(Wiring) & then getting fuel to it. :twothumbs I cant wait to get this thing running again and being able to drive it! :6gears: