Rebuilding my engine what do you think of this combo??

[Project69]

Like the title states...Im rebuilding my worn-out 355. Here are my plans for it:

-Block is getting bored .30+ and its a 2 bolt main so its getting 4 bolt splayed 18 degree main caps.
-SCAT Rotating Assembly, 11:1 compression speed pro pistons, cast steel crank, 4340 i-beam rods, clevite 77 bearings, perfect circle rings.
-Lunati voodoo camshaft, 2,200-6,400...233*/241* @.50'' lift....504"/.525" lift
-Pro-Comp aluminum heads 190 Cfm
-Comp Cams roller rockers 1.5 ration.
-Felpro gaskets
-ARP bolts


Im looking at getting around 520 crank hp with this combo or even more. Tony barker used the same heads and got 568hp with a larger roller cam.

And this is a budget build like everyone else is. I honestly cant spend more then 4k on this engine and so far im looking at 3200.

Any changes that will help? I want to go with a .525/.546 lift cam but im worried about the valve smacking the piston.

[Lowend]

The Pro-Comp heads, is the 190cfm a typo? If not this thing isn't getting anywhere near 500HP. You are going to need at least a 240cfm head

In general the combo isn't bad so to speak, although those speed pro pistons are kind of heavy; SRP or JE are a better choice.
More cam would do you better, I woudl be looking more at something ~250@050 with a .570 lift and a 114 LS You shouldn't have PTV issues in this engine

[Project69]

I didnt think 190 cfm was bad on the exhaust side.

[Lowend]

you 190 on the exhaust isn't bad, most people quote the intake side when talking flow #'s

[MonzaRacer]

I believe he is actually talking about the CC of the intakes,, like AFR 190s.
I am questioning why you are spending money on splayed caps if it isnt boosted, sprayed or such its an expensive opotion that isnt needed and simply installing som ARP Main studs and find a forge factroy steel crank instead.
And if anyone wants to say stock steel cranks cant live at 520 hp my buddies 355 drag engine ran for 5 yrs with a preped stock steel crank.
also the rods unless you have them already a good set of preped stock rods with good bolts will handle 500 +.
Here would be my build up[ and I know it makes over 500hp.
355 roller block, cast crank, preped rods,same pistons you chose(provided they are forged) balance it with good 8 in balancer and sfi flywheel, top it with good heads like you listed or a set AFR 195s.
Bore and Hone with torque plate, if the mains are straight they wont need anything, you can get all the roller parts for about $20 buck except the cam and lifters, reconditioned roller lifters areavailable from Stevens Engine parts, order up a GM Performance Parts LT4 HOT roller, use the 1.65 Comp roller rockers to bump the lift to .541 lift, Performer RPM Air Gap, use atleast a 780cfm carb and good ignition and decent headers.

[Project69]

Thanks monza for the information. I thought you couldnt use a roller cam unless you have a roller cam block?

[Project69]

I guess you can with retro-fit lifters which are pricey but oh well. lol

[MonzaRacer]

Well for the price of an aftermarket crank and rods(unless already owned) you can use a much faster ramp roller cam and simple thrustwasher/cam button set up, spend 36 dollars ona GMPP melonized distributor gear and a bronze tipped fuel pump rod and get more bang for the buck.
I personally have used preped, stock cast cranks with good balancers and balancing and had engine turning well over 500 hp and those get beat on on dirt tracks every weekend and so far we have only had one crank failure and 2 rod failures and this was after starting the second year after fresheing them up. since I now have a lady friend in a vet clinic I can get rods and cranks X-rayed cheap enough as they have thier old machine and the new machine. As long as we help keep the older machine serviced every year we get to use it for cost of materials.The old machinbe uses film and the new one doesnt, if its small parts she takes them in after hours (she is also a certified Xray tech too.)
Between me and my brother we read the scans and determine if I want to fail a part.
Havent had a failure since. Also I have a local kid helping me get rotating assemblies ready and he polishes rods for me and does a very good job and i keep his drag car tuned and running good.
But this is simply my recipe for low buck and solid.
I also put steel crank 2 bolt big block chevys that will make 600hp and never even burp.
I read about a racing shop doing just such work and we started looking at what was needed to make a well built engine live.
Would i recomend any of these get NOS, Turbo or Supercharger, no but a little dial down and you could get by with lower boosted units.
But then for what it takes to d o complete machinework to blueprint a stock block better cash is spent on a World or Dart block and the block can take mopre abuse and be made larger with little or no major machine work.
But good luck on your build regardless of your choice in parts and such.

[Adam's 55 Chevy]

Personally I wouldn't use pro comp heads or spend money on them. They are an inferior off shore copy with bad castings and porous alloy. A false economy whatever the price.

[Project69]

yea. I guess its Brodix IK200 heads then. And my build plans have changed because i have aquired a 98 Roller Block. So I have to buy a whole new mess of parts now. :pat: