Introducing "TRACKDAY", 1968 Camaro

[sik68]

At 23 years old, I am no doubt, a young gun in the pro-touring community. I know some of you have been wrenching on cars for twice as long as I have been alive! So I know, I'm a boy in a man's hobby. But, I'm too busy working on my car to care! I'm cutting my teeth on my first teardown and buildup.

I've been postponing to introduce my project for a while now; I wanted to make sure I had the guts to take the plunge into the money-pit that is pro-touring. However, If you're looking for a high-dollar, frame-off restification, you've come to the wrong place. Besides not having the money, I really don't have the patience or the desire for a 100 point showtouring car. I'm a battle-scar, rock chip kinda guy, and I hope my car will reflect that. I think the name TRACKDAY suits it well, as I truly intend to rip this car up on the track.

As for the buildup, I hope I have the patience to take things slow and not take shortcuts. Yet, I also hope I have the self-control not to get caught up in the hype of having latest and greatest. I also have a "No Bling" rule (although I think I'll make an exception on those carbon fiber spoilers....mmm).

I'm currently installing the following:
Global West Solid body / subframe bushings
Full Global West Suspension, Hotchkis front swaybar.
ATS tall spindles.

Tyler at ATS has been great getting all this stuff to me

Up next:
C5 brake kit from kore3


Well, stay tuned as I slowly and steadily make this car worthy of its namesake:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/08/IMG_0810-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/08/IMG_04871-1.jpg

Thanks!
Steven

[MrQuick]

looking good Steven.....are you sure its not Tacy Kitty? LOL just kidding..

[SatisTraction]

looks like a great start!!!

one note of caution. that block is a death trap. more then one man has died from a busted concrete block. I see you have some jackstands so i know saftey is on your mind. Just be careful.

[Boulder69]

The block came up in another thread. He indicated it is just holding up the rear end that is not bolted to the car.

[neki67]

Steve,

Great going and I hope you will have lots of fun with it and if you keep the above attitude it will be!

In my opinion this site is most certainly not just about high-dollar cars and also very helpful for people who don't have unlimited budgets (as most of us).

René

[Chad-1stGen]

Welcome to the site. Good to see another 68 :)

[Steve N 69 69 69]

looks like a good start. where in cali are you, just wonderin'.

[whytry]

Yeah where are you at in Cali? Sounds like your going to have a great car there!!!

[sik68]

Hey guys, thanks for all the words of encouragement. I'm from Sacramento, so the car is under tarps there at my parents' place, but I live in Walnut Creek (Bay Area). The bad side is, I'm obviously not around my car as much; but it is good for my wallet as it's much harder to eat, breath, and sleep cars!

[Damn True]

Very cool.

I'm in San Jose.

[Steve N 69 69 69]

cool, I drive through Sacto once a year , on my way to river rafting on the Cashe Creek. You got some good lookin ladies working up there at Joes Crab Shack too.
Have fun with the build up.

[trapin]

Welcome Steven. I will 2nd what 'SatisTraction' said and that you need to get some additional support under that car for safety. We had a long time member on this board who died underneath his truck awhile ago. Very sad. I have lobbied for a General Safety forum on this board but until then I'll keep hammering the safety rhetoric. Great to see another '68 come on board. And welcome.

[sik68]

Alright I have updates!

I completely gutted the front and rear suspension and braking system. Replacing with stuff from Global West and Kore3. Pardon the overwhelming amount of dust and grime that these photos show. I don't have a garage, but I make due.

Here's a shot of everything removed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0485-1.jpg

When I have time I will weigh these components for other's reference.

Parts have been trickeling in...here's a shot of the upper and lower control arms, front springs, rear Bilstein shocks, and (stock height) solid body mounts:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0709-1.jpg

Here's a shot of the rear-most body bushing being installed into the car. It really freaked me out when I was detaching the subframe from the body.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0723-1.jpg

And back together (Black widow got WD-40 to the face when I realized she was there):

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0726-1.jpg

More to come...

[sik68]

Tobin @ Kore3 has been awesome throughout this whole process. He informed me that the brake rotor hub requires that the axle flange be <=6". The flange of the original axles is much larger, requiring a turn-down or a replacment. I chose the latter, going with Superior Axles from Summit (SAG-EV10-1). The flange is 5.8" in diameter, so these axles work. They accept the standard 7/16" press in studs (included in box), as well as 1/2"-20 screw-studs (not included). I chose Moser 2" studs from Summit (MSR-8002). Here's a shot of the studs on the axle, along side the original axle.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3164-1.jpg

I have the pictures of the axle overhaul on a different computer, so I will post a complete write-up on that soon.

Here's a picture of the driver's side axle installed, with the caliper bracket from Kore3. This bracket may look atypical to those who have seen the C5 brackets... that's because this bracket also accepts the in-rotor parking brake setup. Notice how the Global West 5 leaf springs aren't even captured by the monoleaf spring perches and a 1/2" lowering block? That's why I am going to order the DSE multileaf conversion kit.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3170-1.jpg

Staggered Shocks: Notice the bracket is oriented at 9 o'clock. This is the correct position to avoid the shock on the driver's side, which goes behind the axle. On the passenger side of the vehicle, the bracket is also installed at 9 o'clock, to avoid the shock which goes in front of the axle. You must use 2 Left-Hand calipers with these staggered-shock cars so that the brakes can be bled properly.

I love tools. Installing the rear axles gave me an excuse to purchase a dial indicator. Here I am checking the runout

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3166-1.jpg

Results:
Driver's side: .003" total
Passenger side: .002" total

I'll do this once again with the rotors on the car...I will expect to see those runout numbers roughly multiplied by 2.

[Nessumsar]

Sweet, another "kid" happy to have a non-show car. You have any plans for an engine?

[sik68]

I am converting over to power steering with Unisteer's Gen II kit and the ATS/Lee 670 box. So I needed a solution for my pulley setup.

Here's my current setup, short water pump driving only the alternator
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0395-1.jpg

(BTW the Ron Davis Radiator you see is awesome)

What I needed was a alternator bracket that met several criteria:

1. Run everything from 1 belt
2. Keep the alternator on the driver side
3. NOT a header mount bracket, which I despise
4. Give enough room to allow clearance for the Gen II pump
5. Allow enough "bite" on the PS pump pulley

After much research, I was left with very few options. As I mentioned in my first post, I don't really go for the "bling parts." But I have to admit that I am pretty darn impressed with this alternator bracket I bought. It's a March product that I bought from Summit (MCH-20131). $160 dollars for a bracket isn't exactly my idea of a deal, but I really got what I paid for:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3157_2-1.jpg

Note the longest bolt in the picture above, used to bolt the alternator up to the bracket. This is the 1/4" bolt that was included in the box, But it is is completely wrong...It should be 3/8" with an allen wrench head (Hex cap) just like every other bolt you see. I don't know how it got in there, but I had to run down to the hardware store to get the correct one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3158_2-1.jpg

Also, the shortest bolt you see wasn't correct for my application either! This is the bolt that is supposed to thread into the top hole of the alternator, holding the piece that the turnbuckle mounts to. The thread on the bolt is coarse, while the thread of the alternator is fine (or vice versa, I can't recall). I just simply reused the bolt I already had. These are the type of hangups that I have learned to accept very early in this project.

Here it is on the car:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3161_2-1.jpg

As you can see, it makes use of the 3/8" drilled accesory holes in the Pro-Topline heads, and provides awesome adjustability with the turnbuckle. It took several hours to install this bracket because I wanted to be sure that the bolts wouldn't bottom out when threading into the aluminum head. I actually bought a bolt that was a smidge shorter and touched it with a grinder, just to be sure. You can see the replacements (in black) HCS that I used to properly install the bracket and alternator. Mismatched bolts build character!

Whether it meets criteria 4 & 5 remains to be seen...I sure hope so.

[sik68]

Sweet, another "kid" happy to have a non-show car. You have any plans for an engine?

Of course! Well I am going to run the 327 for a while, as I rebuilt the top-end just before I put the car on jackstands and ripped all the suspension off it. Eventually though, I have my heart set on building up a 377. The higher it revs, the more beautiful it sounds!

Thanks for your interest!

Steven

[Fesler built]

Steven, welcome to the site looks like a fun project and dont worry about your age we were all young once and the only way to learn is to read up on things and do it yourself. You have a good start and good luck

[sik68]

Steven, welcome to the site looks like a fun project and dont worry about your age we were all young once and the only way to learn is to read up on things and do it yourself. You have a good start and good luck

Thanks Chris. I've had this car since May of 2001, and until now have only "tinkered" with the car. But I consider myself someone who does a lot of research and planning before ever getting my hands dirty, so I think the project is progressing rather smoothly. Even as a shadetree guy, the biggest takeaway I have learned from the high end builders such as your company is to always do it once, and do it right. Because I have cut corners before, and in hindsight have always seen it as a black eye.

By the way, more updates due next weekend, as I plumb the C5 brake system...

[1BADRS]

I think we need a poll of how many users like me and you have to work off our driveway! :firefire:

Ill mark your thread in my subscriptions so i can come back to it.
Good Job!

You know, the driveway is not so bad!
At least your not sealed up in a hot garage with no air flow!
:geek:

[67SSDan]

Very cool! Keep up the posts (well... and the work of course).

Dan

[Scottem]

Great job, no doubt most would just like to have a Camaro like that one much less have all those nice mods. Your doing great and keep on with the "research-plan-wrench it" approach ! Soon you'll have us old guys running for the hills!

[Steve1968LS2]

Nice.. I need a high-res of the second picture :)

Like the name too.. especially since I'm starting project "Track Rat" soon.. lol

Keep the pics coming!

[lotsofhp]

Holy S*** Black Widow!!! I Hate Those Things!!!!

[sik68]

Nice.. I need a high-res of the second picture :)

Like the name too.. especially since I'm starting project "Track Rat" soon.. lol

Keep the pics coming!

Oh snap! more evil than Penny?!

As for the pictures of my car in "hovercraft" mode, I have quite a few...and needless to say would be so stoked to make it into a magazine. Granted, they aren't glamour shots, but I'll shoot some over to you ASAP.

My timeline has it back down on all fours by August. Stay tuned!

[sik68]

Quick Update:

I spent some time preparing my C5 brake kit from Kore3. Here's a mock-up shot of the caliper on the ATS tall spindle:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0163-1.jpg

I wanted the caliper abutment brackets to be a bit darker than stock, so I sprayed them with Dupont hi-temperature paint in matte black. The difference is subtle but it makes the red caliper "pop" quite a bit more. As shipped on left, painted on right:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0174-1.jpg

Just for kicks, here is a mock-up I did a while back showing the rear abutment bracket:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0184-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Keep the pictures coming ! Looks great.
Wayne

[Chad-1stGen]

Nice updates.

Can't wait to see more.

FYI for anyone else looking for a similar alterantor bracket solution. That design is a bling copy of a GM cast bracket used on some trucks from the 60's and I've "heard" some vettes. I picked a bracket set (upper and lower) from a truck parts place near sacramento for $20. I also detest the header bolt setup.

[sik68]

Thanks for the ongoing support!

As promised earlier, here's my write-up of my axle replacement. For 99% of you, swapping axles is a "been there, done that" excercise; but I'm writing it up to share my experiences for those that don't know what's up (like me when I unbolted the diff cover). I didn't get pictures of every step because I didn't feel like washing my hands so often to touch the camera. Luckily, my dad was standing by once in a while to get some shots.

First thing, get a Chilton's nice and greasy:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0177-1.jpg

Next, grab a hold of the driveshaft and spin it until you see a bolt head such as this. This is the set pin which you will need to remove. Shown here:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0176-1.jpg

Just 1 more step before the axles can be removed. Now that the pin is out, there is a steel "dowel" directly in the center of the differential that keeps the axles separate. Rotate the axle to a convienent position and then simply reach in there and push it in either direction. No need to remove it entirely...just far enough so the axles can slide inboard. Here's a pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0185-1.jpg

After that, simply push the axles inboard to release the c-clips.

Ta-da!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0183-1.jpg

Use a slide hammer (I rented from autozone) and the bearing puller attachment to get the seal and bearing out. Pay attention to which way the seal was facing, so that you install the new seal the same way (just in case).

It has been recommended to me over and over that you should always change out the bearings and seals whenever the axle is replaced. To install the new ones, you're going to have to get used to the painful feeling of beating on your car. My tension level skyrocketed during this part of the project, as I am a believer that a hammer is a substitution for using the correct tool. Anyways, I used a hammer and a socket to slowly tap around the outer race of the bearing until it "felt" seated against the lip of the axle housing. Then I did the same for the seal. I don't even like to talk about it that much, because the whole process just gave me the chills. "Just hammer until it feels right;" that's no way to build a car.

Anyways, it worked. NOTE: many have said that after you push the dowel out of position, don't rotate the assembly, as the differential components can fall out. If you need to change positions, push the pin back first.

To reinstall the axles, just do everything in reverse.

Update soon on the installation of the Gen 2 power steering pump from Unisteer.

[Damn True]

Very well done.

I'm pretty sure my wife could accomplish that job given the above instructions.

[trapin]

Sik...project's coming along nicely. One thing to watch though...on your C5 brakes for the front, make sure you ask kore3 about caliper clearance for when you go to order your wheels. I have the Touring Classics C5 brakes for my car and my old wheels need to be replaced because they don't have the 1" of caliper clearance mandated by Touring Classics to clear the huge C5 calipers. Not sure if the kore3's have the same issue.

[Chad-1stGen]

The Corvette logo'd calipers require even more clearance than the PBR

[BA.]

Love the way you're diving into your project. Good on ya.

Sounds like a fun build too, good luck man!

[sik68]

Sik...project's coming along nicely. One thing to watch though...on your C5 brakes for the front, make sure you ask kore3 about caliper clearance for when you go to order your wheels. I have the Touring Classics C5 brakes for my car and my old wheels need to be replaced because they don't have the 1" of caliper clearance mandated by Touring Classics to clear the huge C5 calipers. Not sure if the kore3's have the same issue.


The Corvette logo'd calipers require even more clearance than the PBR

I'm glad you guys brought this up because I went back to double check the clearances on the wheels I'm planning to purchase (Vintage Wheel Works v48) and yes, they only offer 3/4" clearance from mating surface to spokes, where kore3's drawing shows 0.78" from mating surface to the raised letters of the caliper. So I have sourced a 1/4" hubcentric wheel spacer and when ordering the wheels, will increase the backspacing from 4.5" to 4.75" to keep the wheel in the same position. This should give me 0.22" of clearance.

[trapin]

That's what we're here for.......:)

[sik68]

This past weekend I finally finished the installation of the Unisteer Power Steering Pump from Summit (UIS-8060190). I actually believe my installation is the 1st of its kind...you'll see why if you follow along.

First, here is the picture of the pump and reservoir right out of the box (after I used the green side of a sponge to dull the pulley and bracket surfaces, haha):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0219-1.jpg


Here is the backside. I have labeled the tapped holes of the pump to more easily explain my "custom" installation.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0221-1.jpg
Note that the mounting bracket was originally bolted to in the lower position, while the turnbuckle was bolted in the upper position (turnbuckle more evident in 1st picture). This configuration DOES NOT FIT my setup due to the March alternator bracket interfering with the reservoir. When I realized this, I spent about 2 hours trying to figure out what to do. Then it dawned on me that I could move the pump bracket to the other positions on the pump.

"MID" doesn't work because the reservoir moves out too wide and interferes with the A-Arm bolt. However, Moving the bracket to UPPER fits the bill. Here is what I mean:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0222-1.jpg

So this is the packaging result on the car:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0225-1.jpg
I actually think this configuration looks better than the original intended configuration by Unisteer. The setup is more compact, and it it sits lower, which makes the pump pulley almost the same height as the crank pulley. This provides a better wrap angle around the pulley than if the bracket was attached to LOWER.

The problem was not solved yet though, as I still needed a way to hold the pump rigid. My solution was to run a turnbuckle on the backside of the pump, from LOWER all the way up to the bolt that runs between my alternator and the alternator bracket. Here is what I mean:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3340-1.jpg

I used the existing turnbuckle eyelet ends that came with the pump. However, I ordered the center section from www.midwestcontrol.com It is a 9" long aluminum hex bar with the correct tapping 3/8-24 (PN AHT6-9.00) Here is the upper end of the turnbuckle on the backside of the alternator bracket:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3342-1.jpg

That center section was a $5 part with $15 dollars shipping, haha. But when it is all said and done, I think my accessory drive system looks pretty awesome (note the turnbuckle behind the pump and alternator):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_3343-1.jpg

A better view of the setup, although the pic was taken before I installed the pump turnbuckle:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0230-1.jpg

Hope that gives you some insight into another drive solution for a short water pump setup!

Next update will either be brake system plumbing of my C5 kit, or installation of the ATS670 steering box that I just ordered from Prodigy Customs / GP Superstore.

[Ripper]

Nice project!
Did you try to remove the pulley?
I have the same pump with a V-belt pulley. I tried to remove the pulley (allthough just a 5 seconds try and not very serious) but it seems very stuck!



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0219-1.jpg


Ok, I'm aware of that this might be a little overkill but then again - the lower CGH you'll get the better it is. Pay attention to heavy parts and try to mount them as low as possible. In the end, that extra work might be the difference in yours and the other guys camaro...

I mounted my alternator below crank shaft height (1" over the sway bar) and mounted the PS pump on top of that. It's pretty tight fit, but it's possible. The alternator is heavier than the PS pump...
Don't have any good pictures of it right now, but here's atleast one;

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[David Pozzi]

sik68,
I'm concerned that you don't have enough belt wrap around the power steering pulley. I'd rather see it have it's own belt. If you plan on autocrossing the car, the PS system will get a real workout.
David

[sik68]

Thanks Mr. Pozzi, I hope that I don't have to get into a multi-groove pulley setup, but I will if that's what it takes. What I want to do is get a belt on there and get a feel for how much wrap that I get around the pump. Turning that PS turnbuckle to shorten it also helps to increase wrap, as it moves the pulley outboard underneath the alternator more...

Do you have a method of knowing if the belt is slipping on the pulley while driving the car? I guess if the steering intermittantly gets heavy that's one way...



Thanks,
Steven

[David Pozzi]

Yes, it will get heavy when turning the steering wheel and you may hear the belt squeal. Probably the most straight load is when turning the wheels when standing still, especially if you have your foot on the brake, since that forces the steering to drag the tire on the pavement.

When autocrossing the steering system really get's a workout and often the 60's stock pump doesn't keep up, but the old pumps can, if the outlet restriction is drilled out. The newer pumps seem to come with enough flow if the belt can hang on. I've had some belt slippage with a 180 degree wrap of the belt on the crank and PS pump pulleys. With your setup I think you will have trouble, but try it and see.

The Long water pump pulley setup is much easier to do. The alternator belt goes near the damper and the belt does not go anywhere near the ps pump. The PS pump can run off the second groove of the crank and will have maximum wrap of the belt.

David

[sik68]

I have an update!

The first thing I did last night was finally bolt the rear axle to the Global West L2 rear springs. To do this properly on my monoleaf rear axle, I used the Detroit Speed monoleaf to multileaf conversion kit. Basically, it uses a pair of 1" square bar rectangles to act as spring perch extensions. Here is a picture:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/IMG_3387-1.jpg

The conversion kit comes with 7/16" U bolts, but I had already bought 1/2" ones. I just simply drilled out aluminum blocks to accept the larger diameter. Speaking of the blocks, the 1" dimension of the blocks is a perfect fit. I put 45lbf*ft on the U bolts, and that just leaves the slightest clearance in the blocks: ie, all the compressive force is going into the springs. In the picture you can also see the Detroit Speed shock mount plates...

[sik68]

Plumbing a braking system is not fun...but I was able to finish it in a matter of 2 days. It's not pretty, but eventually I just sighed and said, "good enough." I just hope it doesn't leak...

Wilwood, Kore3, Inline Tube

Here are some pics, hopefully the installation doesn't come across as too hacky (although the hose clamps on the axle don't help.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/IMG_3392-1.jpg
Don't worry, that tube doesn't drop in the way of the steering box shaft...it's just the angle of the picture.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/IMG_3388-1.jpg

Yet another mockup of the rear caliper:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/IMG_3403-1.jpg

Next update looks like it will be the installation of my ATS 670 steering box and Detroit Speed steering linkage.

Thanks!
Steven

[sik68]

Latest update!

I had debated for a while whether to go with a nice set of slotted rotors (DBA 4000) for my C5 kit, or to run a set of inexpensive rotors. Some guys over at corvetteforum.com swear by high-end rotors...yet others insist that if you're running trackdays, the stock replacements can take the punishment. Well, I ended up going the cheaper route this time. I purchased Napa "Ultra Premium" rotors (86700, 86701, 86702, 86703). Here are a couple mock-up shots for the front and rear:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3452-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3461-1.jpg

The hats of the front rotors came painted...nice. But the rears werent. So I rattled on some high temperature paint. Here's my taping of the approximate swept portion; I'm trusting that the pads will take off any excess:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3423-1.jpg

Of course, it's not a car weekend without encountering some problems. I ran into an interference problem when I was mocking the passenger side rear rotor and the abutment bracket. the inboard face of the rotor scrubbed against the abutment bracket. Here's what I mean:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3443-1.jpg

After many measurements with the calipers left and right, I determined that the welded flange of my axle housing is inboard by 0.07" compared with the driver side (which was fine rotor/abutment wise). After 3 hours, I had whipped up a shim to go behind the rotor:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3441-1.jpg

I cut it from 16 ga. steel (0.0625"). I confirmed with a dial indicator on the rotor that runout is still ok. The result is this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3448-1.jpg

continued...

[sik68]

After my mono/multileaf fisaso, I finally got my Bilstein shocks installed in the rear...sure was easy:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3434-1.jpg

On Sunday, my girlfriend came up for the weekend and wanted to help me work on it. I handed her the hotchkis front sway bar and said "go for it":

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3428-1.jpg

Haha, she's a good sport, and 2 hours later, we finally got the swaybar in...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3430-1.jpg

Project Trackday is coming along nicely...tomorrow I am shipping my power steering pump back to Unisteer so they can upgrade me to a double-groove pulley. I ordered my wheels from Newstalgia...but I won't say what they are until I can post pics in 3-5 weeks. Phase 1 is almost complete!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3458-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3460-1.jpg

Thanks for tuning in,
Steven

[Dream68]

Hey man love the car, Im in the same boat you are, 23 and tring to build a touring car, just my thread started today. I was wonder what rear brakes you are running. I was going to go for the 98-02 camaro rear brake swap. I didnt know if yours was the corvette like your front? Everythings looking great.

[sik68]

Hey man love the car, Im in the same boat you are, 23 and tring to build a touring car, just my thread started today. I was wonder what rear brakes you are running. I was going to go for the 98-02 camaro rear brake swap. I didnt know if yours was the corvette like your front? Everythings looking great.

Hey thanks for checking in! My front and rear brakes are the C5 corvette setup from kore3. I'm going to check out your thread now.

[Dream68]

Have you decided on wheel and tires yet? size and style?

[Dream68]

sorry for all the questions but does your rear brake kit have a intergraded parking brake?

[dropit69]

looking good man..be on lookout for your wheels they told me 4-6 weeks and the got here in 3..awesome company..

[BossaNova]

Great job man. Looks like fun. Love the updates.

[whytry]

You're really moving along on this!!! Congrats on the progress

[sik68]

sorry for all the questions but does your rear brake kit have a intergraded parking brake?

I installed the proper bracket (kore3) to run the integrated parking brake in the future, but I am not installing it until I run a manual tranmission. You can find some bracket pictures a page or 2 ago.

As for the wheels, I have ordered them, and I'll reveal once they arrive at my house :) I'm pretty excited.

Thanks!

[cheapthrillz]

Dude, I wish I could find a decent 68 because I would go in the exact same direction as you.... maybe a different motor, but other than that, your style is just like mine...

No need for all those flash parts when you just wanna drive the piss out of a 68 camaro that YOU built!

Keep up the good work man!!!

[sik68]

Thanks guys!

I'm simultaneously running the same thread over at Lateral-g, where a red flag has been raised on whether it's acceptable to use a shim to move the rotor, or should the abutment face be machined back

Tobin at Kore3 said the following:


Steven,

We've had several customers in the past who have milled either the brackets or the PABs in order to compensate for a housing not exactly to "spec". Since we're only talking .070", I wouldn't hesitate to do either, just depending on what I had access to with respect to tools and fixturing...the PABs are a little more difficult to set up on a mill than a flat plate is.

I know you purchased the DIHPB brackets so that you could add the parking brake in the future, but keep in mind that if/when you do that you may need to cut down the lip of the internal drum in order to maintain sufficient clearance between the drum and the parking brake backing plate. Technically there should be about .010" clearance...but I wouldn't count on it.

Shimming in general is considered less than ideal in situations where you'll be removing and reinstalling parts frequently...like tires. Every time you loosen your lug nuts you're running the risk of getting brake dust, dirt, and other contaminants in between the rotor/spacer/axle interface, so the runnout you see now may well change in the future.

I think I'll post this up in the wheels and tires section as well.

[PhillipM]

All I have to say is nice work on getting your lady to help out!! Mine loves the car but really doesn't want to be involved in what it takes to put it together.
:cool:

[sik68]

Thanks Phillip!

Today I found a deal on craigslist that was too good to pass up, a TKO transmission with the 0.64 5th gear:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3469-1.jpg

This is not actually the TKO500 or TKO600, but their predecessor, simply the TKO. I got a bit swindled by the guy I bought it from since he advertised it as a TKO600 and I didn't know any better. The only differences between the TKO and the TKO500/600 are the material of the gears, which was upgraded with the TKO500/600,and the bolt pattern of the shifter, which is rectangular for the TKO500/600. My transmission supports 425ft.lbs.

Here's some reading in case you are in the market for a used TKO

3550/TKO: http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/3550_tko.html
TKO500/600: http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/tr-3550.html

Also look at the service manuals on Tremecs website to decode what transmission it is. This is how I got burned.
The serial tag on my tranny is:
TR3550 #2600708

Input Shaft Length: 7.2"
Bearing Retainer Diameter: 4.85"

To make the transmission compatible, I'm gunna ditch the shown bellhousing and go with a Lakewood bellhousing (#15030) or Quicktime (#RM-6064) that adapts the TKO to the chevy small block.

I found another thread on camaros.net where a guy did the exact swap with the Ford 7.2" input shaft:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=72332&highlight=ford+tko

I emailed him since and he said all went well when he used a Ford throwout bearing.

Maybe in by winter!!

[BossaNova]

You got to be kidding me!
That is so awesome.

[TitoJones]

Sweet car. You are doing a great job of showing how you install parts and making good progress.

Tyler

[1969CamaroRS]

Wow nice work, keep the progress pics coming :twothumbs

[sik68]

Thanks you guys. I live about an hour away from my car, so each weekend that I have to work on it, I really try to make it count. I have a tendency to rush and get frustrated. But taking pictures and documenting my buildup is like therapy; it really helps me slow down, stay calm, and reset every once in a while. Taking good pictures and providing these writeups is also beneficial from a feedback standpoint, by making sure I get called out on my 1st timer mistakes.


Sweet car. You are doing a great job of showing how you install parts and making good progress.

Tyler

Couldn't have done it without ATS! That Lee box is going in soon...

[Dream68]

That TKO is going to be sweet! Im looking at going the same direction, But My wallets not! :pat: Looking foward to know how yours goes, might give me some inspiration!

[sik68]

Awww yeah.... my wheels came in from Newstalgia. Vintage wheel works V48. Mock up only, I know it's the wrong side... I'll have plenty of pictures once they are fully mounted in a couple weeks time

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3498-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/IMG_3502-1.jpg

Now I just need a couple free weekends to finish up my car. I will have a proper update in a couple of weeks.

[nicks67camaro]

I love those wheels. How is the clearance with the C5/6 brakes.

your making great progress!

[BossaNova]

Those wheels are beautiful!
Great choice.
Oh yeah, I had a really good experience dealing directly with the guys at Vintage Wheel.

[sik68]

Thanks you guys, I'm really excited as this is the first set of V48's I have seen on a 68 Camaro. But I think it's going to pay off, as they look awesome. They look appropriate for the era while being very racy and aggressive.


I love those wheels. How is the clearance with the C5/6 brakes.

your making great progress!

I was in a HUGE rush this weekend as I had to travel, so I got to Sacramento, ripped open the box, and basically ran the wheel over to my car just to see it. So I will have a full writeup on actual fitment soon. The short of it is that the rears have plenty of clearance, while the fronts will use a 1/4" spacer to clear the back of the spokes.

[cdoggy81]

Great stuff so far. Keep it up!

[maldo]

nice keep the pictures coming ...

[SaturnVUEguy]

Wheel looks nice on there, look forward to them all mounted

[Nessumsar]

Those are the wheels I would have gone with if my budget would have allowed! Dang you, they look so good!

[tom_a]

I like those wheels. What rotor size are you running and do the front calipers clear the wheels?

[rohrt]

Nice thread! What the heck do you do for a living to afford all the great parts?

[sik68]

Nice thread! What the heck do you do for a living to afford all the great parts?

Haha, well I'm a mechanical engineer working in the SF bay area, but that's only half the equation. For the past 7 years I've done nothing but think about rebuilding this car. I've gotten really good at cutting a lot of corners in my daily life so I don't cut any with my Camaro. So with my ducks in a row it was just time to put the blinders on and do it up the way I really want. :git:

[rohrt]

I was in SF for my Honeymoon last year. Me and the wife drove to Napa valley and I remember seeing a big Track on the way their. Was that a road course track?

[Jarcaines]

Was it Sears Point?

[sik68]

Yeah that's Sear's Point raceway / Infineon. It's an awesome track. Between it and Laguna Seca, Norcal has it made :)

[Procharmo]

Great build up, I wish I had read some of this prior to some of my more fustrating moments. I too am restoring on the driveway. Sometimes I can move the Camaro into the garage but its been on stands for a long time now. I keep the Porche in the garage (single) and worry about either if they are not locked away. I have some photos and will document the build-up at some point. But would just like to say its good to see dedication and determination in any aspect of one's life. The ability to modify,design and implement displays positive aspects of all our personalites.

[trapin]

Sik...love the wheels. Classic looking.

[JEFFTATE]

Great car !
Love It.

[Jarcaines]

I am loving this build! Keep up the great work man, you are doing a lot of the same things I want to do to my car.

[PhillipM]

Is anyone else worried by these two statements in the same paragraph??

"well I'm a mechanical engineer" and "I've gotten really good at cutting a lot of corners in my daily life "

Just wondering..

Nice build though, keep it up!

[sik68]

Is anyone else worried by these two statements in the same paragraph??

"well I'm a mechanical engineer" and "I've gotten really good at cutting a lot of corners in my daily life "

Just wondering..

Nice build though, keep it up!

Haha, touche. Of course I meant only my personal finances :)

[Dream68]

Hey man thanks for the comments, What are looking to do next on yours?? Cant wait to see trackday on the road!!

[sik68]

This weekend was chaos! Here is a summary of the new problems that developed:

In ascending order of PITA:
1. The stock wheel studs that came with the ATS spindle are too short. I mocked up my front wheel with the 1/4" spacer, and I can only get 3 turns on the nut...not good. Simple to solve though... I have 2.5" ARP studs on the way, Summit #ARP-100-7708 Of course I'll have a writeup on the replacement. In the mean time:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0596-1.jpg

2. The relatively cheap 1 5/8" Dynomax headers have no chance of clearing the ATS steering box. The #3 primary is basically groping the box. The pictures shows how there's no chance these headers will work:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0586-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_05871-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0585-1.jpg

From my research on www.camaros.net , to clear the power steering box you need the right set of headers, and possibly the correct motor mounts. My engine is a 327, likely with the original mounts, which are different from the 350 engine stands which are better for PS box clearance.

David Pozzi breaks it down (thanks!):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/camaro_eng_mounts-1.jpg

So, I ordered a set of Doug's D368 1 3/4" headers...yeah that size is probably too big for a 327, but if these headers work, then they'll be perfectly sized for a future engine build. And if I still need more room, I will acquire the 350 motor mounts and that should cure the problem. Photos of the Doug's soon!

3. Draining the oil, the first 12 ounces or so of fluid from my pan was WATER/COOLANT! Well, this one I guess I could see coming, because back when I built the top end of this engine in college, I was going for max compression and thought I could get away with a 0.015" SCE full copper gasket without the "steel rings". Nope, and an even worse idea with an undecked block and aluminum heads.

But I'm turning this into a positive. Since the topend will be apart, I am pulling out the unknown flat tappet that is lame above 4800rpm, and going with a mild solid roller cam, likely the Comp XR274R. This sets my timeline back significantly, but at least I'll be able to give you my 1st timer solid roller install.

Step 1 of cam swap, radiator out:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0604-1.jpg

[PhillipM]

Is that the ATS 600 series steering box?

[TitoJones]

Is that the ATS 600 series steering box?


It is indeed our ATS 670 box. We do all the cool stuff like safety wire and AN fittings.

Bummer about the headers. Stahl has a sweet set that will clear them but they are almost $1400 per set.

Tyler

[PhillipM]

Is it true that the 670 box is not as wide as the old style box? I was told they were better for header fitment because of this..

[sik68]

It is indeed our ATS 670 box. We do all the cool stuff like safety wire and AN fittings.

Bummer about the headers. Stahl has a sweet set that will clear them but they are almost $1400 per set.

Tyler

It's a pretty awesome piece! It weighed in at 21lbs full of fluid, only a 6lb increase over my 28:1 manual box. And it's stamped "Lee" on it so you know what you got is quality.

My only complaint is the rag joint didn't come with any hardware...

[sik68]

Is it true that the 670 box is not as wide as the old style box? I was told they were better for header fitment because of this..

Based on many pictures I looked over, I don't think the 670 box is appreciably smaller. That said, I think that obtaining clearance is overwhelmingly based on having the proper headers and proper motor mounts. With a 1st gen Camaro, you're going to bash your head into the wall by trying to make a steering box work with inadequate space in the engine room.

[PhillipM]

Im not so worried about the steering box working as I am the Stainless Works headers. I was told that the 670 box was smaller and I thought that was shenanigans. Just wanted to ask someone that had one to look at.

[TitoJones]

They are smaller but only at the end where the fittings are and where the rag joint connects. External main case is the same size as an 800 box.

Tyler

[PhillipM]

Thank you Tyler, that is the information I was looking for.

[sik68]

9/14/08 Update

Well, this weekend was a complete turnaround from last weekend...things actually went smoothly for a change! 1st, I installed my new front wheel studs into the ATS C5 hub. ARP 7708 2.5" studs from Summit, they are the correct knurl and thread, and really look like an upgrade over the stock studs:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0618-1.jpg

To remove the studs, I went to Autozone and picked up a single wheel nut, threaded it down 95% of the way, and tapped lightly with a hammer...that's all it took!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0620-1.jpg

To install the new studs, I drove to my grandfather's place and used his 20t press.

Next up, my new Doug's D368 headers! And they clear the power steering box! Man, these are quality pieces compared with my Dynomax headers. Doug's top, Dynomax bottom.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0649-1.jpg

For my mockup install, I had the car on jackstands front and rear, and the steering box was not in. I put the header in from the top. Then I covered the primaries with a rag, and could actually put the steering box in from the top and completely bolt it in. The clearance isn't enormous, but it could be enough since the motor torques to the other side and I am running solid body bushings. Here are some pictures of the clearance:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0660-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0663-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0662-1.jpg

The clearance is actually a bit more everywhere than these photos show, it's just hard to get a photo that shows the true gap between them. Finding headers that fit is a true victory. :thankyou:I didn't try the passenger side header yet.

Oh, and for the record, here is a photo of the driver's header and how far it hangs below the subframe: Roughly 1.5"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0668-1.jpg

[sik68]

Teaser wheel shots again!

Vintage Wheel Works V48

Front: 17x8 4.75" Backspacing, 1/4" spacer. 245/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3

Rear: 17x9.5 5.5" Backspacing. 275/40/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3

This was the car's first time on the ground so the suspension is far from settled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0630-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0626-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0644-1.jpg

[Twentyover]

Cool Wheels. I'm using PS Engineering's 17" minilite replicas on my 70- I'm running 8" fronts (4.5" BS) w/ 235/45 and 9" rears (5.5"BS) 275/40 on Khumo's.

[PhillipM]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0644-1.jpg

Are you going to finish the exhaust out the back?

[sik68]

Are you going to finish the exhaust out the back?

Well with the new headers (longer), I'll definitely be redoing it (in that photo you can see I was in the middle of taking it off). I think I'll ditch the flowmasters and run an X pipe and Borlas, which sound awesome with a solid roller I think. But I'm torn on whether I'll run dumps again or run the original routing scheme. Dumps just somehow seem fitting for a poorly primered car :rotfl:

[Jarcaines]

Those wheels are going to look sweet when this car is finished. Can't wait!

[maldo]

Nice really nice :twothumbs

[PhillipM]

Well with the new headers (longer), I'll definitely be redoing it (in that photo you can see I was in the middle of taking it off). I think I'll ditch the flowmasters and run an X pipe and Borlas, which sound awesome with a solid roller I think. But I'm torn on whether I'll run dumps again or run the original routing scheme. Dumps just somehow seem fitting for a poorly primered car :rotfl:

Dude you have got to run it all the way out the back!

[1BADRS]

"Front: 17x8 4.75" Backspacing, 1/4" spacer. 245/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3

Rear: 17x9.5 5.5" Backspacing. 275/40/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3"
I wonder if those same size and measurements will fit a stock front and rear suspension?

[sik68]

"Front: 17x8 4.75" Backspacing, 1/4" spacer. 245/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3

Rear: 17x9.5 5.5" Backspacing. 275/40/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3"
I wonder if those same size and measurements will fit a stock front and rear suspension?

Yes it will! Those wheel dimensions are very well accepted on www.camaros.net as the "sure thing" dimensions to wheel fitment in a 1st gen. Before I did any suspension mods, Budnik wheels had me down for this same setup. I would run a bit more backspace though, 4.875" in the front...I didn't have the option because the wheels I bought are maxed out at 4.75". Also, since I'm running a front wheel spacer (effectively negating some of the backspacing), I will likely need to run 1deg or more of camber if I don't want to rub. I don't mind a bit of camber for a car that will MAYBE see a thousand street miles a year.

[1BADRS]

Yes it will! Those wheel dimensions are very well accepted on www.camaros.net (http://www.camaros.net) as the "sure thing" dimensions to wheel fitment in a 1st gen. Before I did any suspension mods, Budnik wheels had me down for this same setup. I would run a bit more backspace though, 4.875" in the front...I didn't have the option because the wheels I bought are maxed out at 4.75". Also, since I'm running a front wheel spacer (effectively negating some of the backspacing), I will likely need to run 1deg or more of camber if I don't want to rub. I don't mind a bit of camber for a car that will MAYBE see a thousand street miles a year.
Ok, I may try this setup...
And if it rubs i can blame myself. :enguard:
Do you know if I will need the spacer or no?

[sik68]

Ok, I may try this setup...
And if it rubs i can blame myself. :enguard:
Do you know if I will need the spacer or no?

I only run the spacers to clear the corvette calipers, but they effectively make my backspacing 4.5". I would recommend a net backspacing to be 4.75 to 4.875. Meaning if you run a 1/4" spacer, order your wheels with 5.00 to 5.125

When I can drive my car and it settles to ride height, I'll let you know of anything I find :)

More Info:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=100853

[Dream68]

Any updates?? Hope things are going well.

[maroon88iroc]

Steven, welcome to the site looks like a fun project and dont worry about your age we were all young once and the only way to learn is to read up on things and do it yourself. You have a good start and good luck

age doesnt matter, im 19 and have already built three cars.

btw your maro looks good.

[sik68]

See next post please

[sik68]

Any updates?? Hope things are going well.

I do finally have an update!

As I mentioned in an earlier update, I had a head gasket leak. So I picked up a pair of Mr. Gasket head gaskets (Summit #MRG-1134) 0.028" thick. I also replaced the intake manifold gaskets with Felpro 1205 gaskets, which are a very close match to the intake ports of my Pro Topline 200cc heads. Within a weekend, I tore the engine down to the short block, replaced the head gaskets, and built it back up.

After I debugged some electrical gremlins, the car had it's first startup in a year and a half!! Running straight headers (Only ran it for 30 seconds or so since I had no cooling system in).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/th_Project1-1.jpg (http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/bb128/thre11phan/Camaro/?action=view&current=Project1.flv)

The car jumps to attention nearly instantly after I turn the key!

I also took some glamour shots (I got the headlights working!)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/IMG_0722-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/IMG_0715-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/IMG_0739-1.jpg

I took Mr. Pozzi's advice and am now running a second dedicated belt to the power steering pump. Here it 's during my mockup:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/IMG_0724-1.jpg

I'm getting so close to taking it for a spin!

[Dream68]

everything is looking great! And glad to hear it run as well. I was just wondering if you got that TKO in or not??

[sik68]

everything is looking great! And glad to hear it run as well. I was just wondering if you got that TKO in or not??

My plan is not to put the transmission in until the spring probably. Over the winter, I will probably send the transmssion to MMR (Modular Mustang Racing) in Southern California for several transmission upgrades that should make it 750HP capable, and shift smoother

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_trans_drive.htm

I will also need some time to research and buy the rest of the components I don't have like the flywheel, clutch, pedals, linkage, etc.

I'm just so anxious to drive it!

[PhillipM]

The only thing that I am wondering is that it looks like you don't have an E brake.?. This could be a problem if you put a manual in the car.. That is what turned me off of the Kore3 rear brake set up. I'm not sure if you have checked out my thread for my 69Z but it will be my track day/Power Tour 09 car.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24800

[sik68]

The only thing that I am wondering is that it looks like you don't have an E brake.?. This could be a problem if you put a manual in the car.. That is what turned me off of the Kore3 rear brake set up. I'm not sure if you have checked out my thread for my 69Z but it will be my track day/Power Tour 09 car.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24800

Thanks for the heads-up Phillip! I'm going to check out your thread. Correct, I don't have an ebrake in the car right now. But I planned ahead a bit and the rear caliper mounting plates I used are the e-brake compatible ones...so I can go ahead and just bolt up the system Kore3 sells when it's time to install the tranny.

[PhillipM]

I always get a little nervous not having an ebrake but this is from a man that has lost brakes before and had to use it! Yikes.

[1FstChevy]

Wow sik68 this looks like an excellent project!

Your suspension setup looks close to identical to what I'm doing on my 2nd Gen... PLUS your therory of hammer-on-car being a poor substitute for the right tool is exactly what I try to explain to a few misguided friends!

Way to go on buying the Bilstein shocks, Hotchkis, & C5 brakes! I noticed you also used Hawk HPS pads and the Napa UltraPremium rotors which I recommend to everyone for daily drivers or vintage cars! Truely the best rotor for the $$$ & besides cross drilled/slotted on a non OEM rotor is pretty lame!

[sik68]

Wow sik68 this looks like an excellent project!

Your suspension setup looks close to identical to what I'm doing on my 2nd Gen... PLUS your therory of hammer-on-car being a poor substitute for the right tool is exactly what I try to explain to a few misguided friends!

Way to go on buying the Bilstein shocks, Hotchkis, & C5 brakes! I noticed you also used Hawk HPS pads and the Napa UltraPremium rotors which I recommend to everyone for daily drivers or vintage cars! Truely the best rotor for the $$$ & besides cross drilled/slotted on a non OEM rotor is pretty lame!

It sounds like you read through these postings pretty thoroughly...thanks I really appreciate it! I'm glad to hear we're on the same wavelength about our projects and how we get the job done.

[sik68]

The past few weekends, I have been absolutely tormented by not having opportunities to work on my car. Finally though, my calendar was commitment-free, so I dove under the car.

I was able to cross off a couple more things off the list this weekend:

1. Install steering linkage
I ordered Detroit Speed's steering linkage overhaul kit, which includes all of the components you need from the pitman arm to the outer tie rods (except the center link). The tie rod adjuster arms are pretty slick looking and solidly made:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/IMG_0847-1.jpg

I encountered two problems. Firstly, the #6 header pipe is touching the rubber boot of the idler arm. Untreated, it will probably melt, so I am going to wrap the tube with some header wrap to keep the heat transfer minimal. I will continue to monitor it, as body flex or engine torquing could do some damage. The second problem is that with the steering stop knobs on the Global West arms, I am only getting 1.5 turns lock to lock! I know the Lee box's 12.7:1 ratio is quick, but looking at the angle of the spindles at lock, I'm thinking I will need more. Can someone tell me if it is ok to simply grind down the knobs a bit?

2. Plumb my power steering setup & finalize belts
The stainless braided hoses that I got from Unisteer are quality pieces, but I wouldn't have minded if they were made 2 inches longer. The hi pressure line is a -6 female on both sides, which was JUST long enough to be able to route cleanly to the banjo fitting on the pump. The return line though, I had to pull unacceptably tight to reach the reservoir. My solution? Earl's 921106 ($14 each?!?!) 90deg elbow fittings.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/IMG_0845-1.jpg

And here are the hoses attached. Note that the return line is actually a -8 end, and Unisteer includes the -8 to -6 adapter:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/IMG_0848-1.jpg

It's amazing what a bit of braided line and some nice fittings can do to muscle-up an engine room :)

Here's a (dust ridden) picture of my accessory drive system. Thanks again to Mr. Pozzi for "steering" me to run a dedicated belt to my pump.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/IMG_0849-1.jpg

3. Misc
I reinstalled the radiator, which went pretty smoothly. I also snugged up the bolt at the firewall that connects the gas pedal to the throttle linkage. I had noticed that my pedal travel was limited, and the carb linkage wasn't able to open the secondaries with the pedal to the floor. That oughta help the performance quite a bit :)

Night shot I took for fun:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/IMG_0858-1.jpg

Well, next weekend I will inch even closer to the project's completion, as I bleed the brakes and pray for a leak-free system. When that's finished, I do believe that Trackday will be ready for a shakedown run.

Thanks for tuning in!

[cdoggy81]

Good stuff & best of luck next week when you take it out!

[Dream68]

Looking good, Getting close for sure!!

[1BADRS]

wha?? no fresh paint?? :banghead:

Keep up the good work, and keep the updates comin. Enjoyed the thread.

[sik68]

Oh yeah, approximate wheel weights using a person scale (FWIW):

VWW V48 17x8 (Front)---22.5 lbs
VWW V48 17x9.5 (Rear)----21.5 lbs

I think that's pretty good. Rupp listed Bad Penny's 17x10s as 21.15 lbs
and 17x12s as 20.85 lbs., so I figure that my wheels can fall into the "light wheel" category.

[blown9746]

I really like your build. When I finally find the right starting car, I plan to do a similar build. I can't wait to hear how it drives.

[Damn True]

Atta-boy!

Get that thing moving!!!

[Motown 454]

Sik68 A little like sweet music when you hear it run. Yuor doing good keep us updated.

[Tucks69]

I really like the build up on your Camaro. You got any pics with the wheels installed yet? Kind of reminds me of my 68 only mine is black primer!!
Michael

[sik68]

I really like the build up on your Camaro. You got any pics with the wheels installed yet? Kind of reminds me of my 68 only mine is black primer!!
Michael

Hey Michael, page 5 has my rundown of my wheel fitment, but here's a picture. It was the first time on the ground with the new suspension, so it's sitting pretty high:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0630-1.jpg

[Damn True]

Looks great!

[Tucks69]

Hey Michael, page 5 has my rundown of my wheel fitment, but here's a picture. It was the first time on the ground with the new suspension, so it's sitting pretty high:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/IMG_0630-1.jpg

Wheels look good!! Can't wait to see it at ride height. Do you have the hybrid type kit? I do and my 17"torquethrust fit without spacers.
Mike

[Dream68]

any updates??

[sik68]

any updates??

Well, it's now just a matter of getting the bugs worked out of it. I figure that this is the most exciting phase of the project for me, but the least exciting phase for blogging. Here's my shortlist now:

BRAKES
After remaking several of the brake hardlines, and snugging and re-snugging, I THINK I have a leak-free system. However, pedal travel is ridiculously long, so I will re-bleed the system to make sure.

DEBRIS IN FUEL LINE? UPDATE: SOLVED
I need some diagnosing help on this one. I've been starting the car and it's been idling and revving great. Then, this past weekend, I started the car and it ran fine for ~10 seconds, then suddenly it sputtered and died. Now when I'm cranking, it coughs and sputters, but wont start...like it's starving for fuel is my impression. I have a pressure gauge 6" upstream from my carburetor which shows 9psi,and I have a clear fuel filter which I can see the gas traveling through, but I'm thinking I have some debris in the line or my carb is malfunctioning. I replaced the module in my Unilite distributor just to be sure, but that made no difference. Any ideas?

SOME PRIMARY TUBES ARE COLDER?
When my car WAS running, I noticed a large temperature variation from each of the tubes when I would first start up my car. Some got immediately hot to the touch, while some remained just warm. I'm probably going to pull each plug 1 by 1 to check for spark, as I think the water from that past head gasket leak did them in...

EXHAUST
I am still undecided, but leaning toward Borla for my mufflers. I like the raucous raspy sound at full throttle. I've had the Flowmaster 40's, but the metallic sound isn't my favorite (although they do sound great when you let off the throttle).

My plan for the plumbing is full stainless with an x pipe, either 2.5" or 3". I'm still debating between 2 exit configurations, but leaning towards dumps.

1. Dumps: An elbow just after the muffler. It's louder (sometimes I want loud), lighter, better flow, simpler, and cheaper

2. Stock: Over the axle and exiting next to the fuel tank. Quieter (Sometimes I want quiet), less dust, tribute to stock, less stigma (as if a primered camaro doesn't already have a stigma).

My next update probably won't be until Christmas week, which I have off work. I'm determined to get the car on the road by then :)

Thanks for tuning in!

[sik68]

Last weekend I took it up and down the driveway for its first spin!

RRePBGRZFLY

Link to watch in High Quality: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRePBGRZFLY

Does it sound like its running on less than 8 cylinders to anybody else? I put in 8 new spark plugs but that didn't help. I'm going to change plug wires and see if that cures it. Otherwise, MSD for me.

All I can report for now, is that the steering is lightning quick. I'm up against the steering stops on the control arms, and the turning radius isn't that great so I may have to grind them down a bit. 1.5 turns lock to lock.

[Steve68]

Diggen the mini lites!

[Rick Dorion]

Cool. On my old 410 there was a spread of 300-600-ish degrees 1" off the header flange using an infrared gun. Love those wheels.

[Chad-1stGen]

ahhh nothing quite like the first time it moves under it's own power :)

[BossaNova]

I too love the wheels and tires. Great choice!

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

Man i bet thats a great feeling!

looks good going up and down the driveway too!

what all do you need to do to it to get it street worthy?

[sik68]

Man i bet thats a great feeling!

looks good going up and down the driveway too!

what all do you need to do to it to get it street worthy?

Well I'm hoping I can qualify for collector car insurance now that I'm 25, so I need to get a policy; and I have my DMV appointment on Monday to register it. Then it is off to the muffler shop if I can get the misfire corrected. Also, I need an alignment.

Thanks for checking in everybody. Stay tuned for some driving footage and my first driving impressions!

[nicks67camaro]

Good luck getting it on the road. I am not sure who you are looking at for insurance but grundy covered me at 25 with no surcharges with an agreeded value.

[sik68]

So it sounded like I was running on 7 cylinders. Thats because one of the spark plugs was submerged in antifreeze. And actually, I took my passenger header off and and 2 ounces of fluid dripped from the pipe. As this is my second try with mating the heads to the deck, I'm pretty sure the 40-year-old deck is bad.

Meet my latest batch of oil that I found the day after Christmas:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/IMG_4777-1.jpg

In my own sick, twisted way though, I was happy...an excuse to rip out the engine, rebuild it, and go with a solid roller cam and a bunch more compression. Besides, I have a 5 speed on my shelf!

So today, I got my grandpa's "cherry picker" and went to town on pulling the 327/TH350.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/IMG_4787-1.jpg

The hard part is getting everything ready for the pull, it took 1/2 the day...yanking the engine only took 20 mins.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/IMG_4797-1.jpg

So, here they sit, torn apart on such short notice. But drastic times call for drastic measures:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/IMG_48041-1.jpg

Please stay tuned, as I am making a decision very soon on whether to go with a solid roller 350, built by Rex Hutchinson Racing in Sacramento (using my heads/manifold), or overhaul my existing 327 with block work and a solid roller, built by a more pedestrian, local machine shop.

Things just went to the next level.

[slowcamaro]

Machine work isn't cheap. 4" blocks are. More cubes are better. Yes solid roller. Awesome car.

For suggestions I suggest.
http://www.reedcams.com/camform.htm

[Dream68]

sorry to hear the bad news but it sounds like you are going to take advantage of this catastrophic event. Good luck and im looking foward to seeing the updates

[Tucks69]

That really sucks!! 383 stroker my .02!

[skinnyboy67]

Love the wheels.....

Can the deck on the block really be that bad to cause such a problem?? Never heard of such extremes?
I have heard of peope strruggling with alumn. heads and different gaskets and especially torque sequence on head bolts.
All gaskets and proper torque seq. are correct??
Just seems like to big of a leak to blame a bad deck on the block.

[sik68]

Love the wheels.....

Can the deck on the block really be that bad to cause such a problem?? Never heard of such extremes?
I have heard of peope strruggling with alumn. heads and different gaskets and especially torque sequence on head bolts.
All gaskets and proper torque seq. are correct??
Just seems like to big of a leak to blame a bad deck on the block.

I'm not totally certain what is to blame for the leak. But the block has never been surfaced in 40 years, and the heads I bought brand new and had them surfaced just to be sure. This is my second attempt to bolt these heads on (with a different gasket each time), and that it's leaking in both #4 and #6 makes me think it's the deck.

I didn't blink an eye when I discovered the problem...I was already scheming. :yum:

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

So have you made a final decision yet on what engine/internals/builder you're going with?

(I have to say; your build is my favorite on the entire site. Great job!)

[sik68]

So have you made a final decision yet on what engine/internals/builder you're going with?

(I have to say; your build is my favorite on the entire site. Great job!)


Hi Cliff! I'm glad you like what I'm doing with my car. As you can see the project continues to make decisions for me; I'm just going along for the ride :) So far I have been able to keep the promise to myself not to cut corners: build it once, and build it the way I want.

EDIT: Just checked your car out...I can't believe someone FINALLY put the E39 M5 wheels on their car! I have come sooo close several times to buying a set for my 68. Are they replica's or OEM? I am still thinking I will pick up a set later for some sticky tires maybe. Great choice!

We dropped the engine off on Saturday.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/rex-1.jpg

I'm sure some of you locals have heard of Rex Hutchinson Racing in Sacramento, CA. They have built a solid reputation over the years, firmly rooted in local level and national level racing. We have known the owner personally for 14 years, and treats us like we buy an engine every month. I still remember him from back in 1995 (I was 12), when my dad had a 454 built for our Eliminator. The shop tour they gave us was incredible, and probably the first time I understood the addiction to horsepower.

However, when it came to building my engine, I started out a bit skeptical of my dad's recommendation to call Rex. I didn't like the idea of an engine build by a shop that I considered "old school." Aluminum heads, solid roller cam, high revs, pro touring...I didn't see my ideas meshing well with a shop that's been around since the stone ages. Long story short, my misconceptions were smushed when I spoke with Dan, who is arranging the details of my build as we speak. Not to mention Rex, who makes you feel like his grandkid within about 10 minutes. We got a shop tour again...the fully-ported LSX 454 with a sheetmetal intake quelled any fears I had about the shop stuck in the stone ages.

The details are still pending, but so far this is the direction we are headed (with help from the great guys at www.camaros.net too):

Engine Build
355ci 4 bolt, forged pistons, moly rings, brass plugs, etc
10:1
Pro Topline aluminum 200cc heads (off my 327), possibly port
XR280R solid roller cam, 242 248 duration
Victor Jr or RPM Air Gap
Holley 750 DP
1 3/4" headers

Summary of the rest of my Drivetrain:
Aluminum Flywheel
Centerforce clutch
TKO 5 speed
3.73 Rear

Should be good for 450 hp at 6500rpm, and peak torque around 4800 and rev like a monster :smoke:

[cdoggy81]

stock rods & crank?

[sik68]

stock rods & crank?

I got a great deal on the 355 shortblock that they just built, so I didn't have much of a choice on components. The entire rotating assembly is brand new and balanced, but the rods and crank are nothing special. Should be fine at my power level as I don't ever see myself with a power adder. A forged crank is one expense I think can spare.

I trust the shop, but It's still in the planning stages...so if anyone thinks the bottom end is weak, I'm all ears.

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

EDIT: Just checked your car out...I can't believe someone FINALLY put the E39 M5 wheels on their car! I have come sooo close several times to buying a set for my 68. Are they replica's or OEM? I am still thinking I will pick up a set later for some sticky tires maybe. Great choice!

Thanks man! They are OEM's - none of the replicas have 9.5" rears from what I've read. They are awesome wheels as long as you can beat out the BMW guys for them...lol.

Look forward to your updates on the project! Any plans for paint and body yet?

[sik68]

UPDATED 2/28/09

Today was the big day, when I picked up my newly built engine from Rex Hutchison.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/IMG_4851-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/IMG_4852-1.jpg

Final Specs:
355ci, 9.8:1 compression, balanced & blueprinted
200cc Pro Topline Aluminum heads, performance valve job, bowl blend, polished chambers
Comp cams solid roller, XR274R 236int 242exh 0.564"int 0.570"exh
Edelbrock 7501 air gap intake, port matched
1 3/4" Dougs headers

To be purchased this month:
Custom built Pro Systems carb

The engine should be a beast, and will produce way more power than I am comfortable with. I'm sure this thing will scare me for a long time. I will install it once I piece together my transmission parts, so I can slide everything in at once. Probably mid April.

Speaking of transmissions, here's what I discovered today when I was taking measurements of my craigslist-purchased TKO:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/IMG_4850-1.jpg

It's supposed to be 4.85". When he sold it to me, the jackass failed to mention that he lathed 0.2" from the diameter to accomodate his bellhousing. Thus, I need to replace that piece, so I am trying to source it now. I hate liars...and I hate that I got worked.

[carguy502]

Ultra lame. You cam even see the outline of where the plate was before. Don't sweat it, that should be an easily sourced part. oh, yeah, your car is friggin' sweet.:1st: I love V48s and 1st gens and rex Hutchinson knows his small blocks. Enjoy.

[ZZ427]

Really enjoyed your build , keep us posted .

[Damn True]

Engine - stoked.
Trans - bummed.

But the trans issue should be an easy fix.

[sik68]

I haven't had much time to work on the car, so I don't have any progress pictures lately, but I do have this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4959-1.jpg

I really geeked out when this thing arrived. What a top-o-the line piece, and should be close to perfect right from the box, as it's custom built. Yes, I mean business!

[Motown 454]

Nice !

[sik68]

Well it's been nearly 2 months, but I finally had a chance to work on my car this weekend. Here's the latest

1) Composite Distributor Gear:

My Mallory Unilite distributor had a steel gear. For roller cam applications, I kept reading that it is important to run a bronze or composite gear. So, I bought the Comp Cams composite gear ( 0.491" for Mallorys). For what it's worth, it's less rotating inertia than the bronze, haha.

Here's a side-by-side (steel one still on distributor):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4969-1.jpg

Here's showing how I knocked out the pin using a hardened nail that fit just right.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4970-1.jpg


Linkage just doesn't make functional sense to me. So the next thing I did was install the Lokar throttle cable and gas pedal. This is probably one of the easiest things I have done to this car. Here's the midnight series pedal:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4978-1.jpg

The arms are splined, so that you can clock the height of the pedal to your preference. Great for getting those heel-toe downshifts just perfect.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4979-1.jpg

Here's where I determined where to drill the 5/16" hole, which puts it nearly dead on with the throttle lever:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4982-1.jpg

Here's the Lokar cable. I put a washer on both sides of the nuts as I think it looks better:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4984-1.jpg

Here's the linkage on the pedal side. This is the first Lokar stuff I have owned....their quality really lives up to the hype:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4985-1.jpg

And here's an overview of the installation in the footwell:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/IMG_4987-1.jpg

Stay tuned, as I will soon jump into the transmission installation, which will signify the end of this phase of the project (I think). I want to drive this thing soooo bad.

Thanks!
Steven

[sik68]

5/10/09 Update

Well today was the day I have been anticipating for a long time...the beginning of my first flywheel/clutch/bellhousing/tranny install ever. To be honest, I had never seen the naked back end of an small block chevy until I took delivery of my 355. This was a true first-timer experience, so I hope to offer encouragement to those of you who are on the fence about DIY tranny install.

I think this would have been a whole lot more difficult if the engine were in the car. Having it dangling from a cherry picker (with a safety lockout of course) is way easier.

First I tapped in the pilot bearing into the bore of the crank, which went in without any distress. Then hammered in the straight dowel pins, and hung the block protector plate. Summarized in this picture:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_5059-1.jpg
Keen eyes will notice that that is not a standard chevy pilot bearing. True; This is a lakewood adaptor bearing (15975) to put a ford tranny behind and SBC. The TKO I have is the ford style, with a longer input shaft.

Next, I mocked up the Fidanza 153 tooth aluminum flywheel (198541), 10.5lbs. Caution, the pressure plate bolts I show (6 around the outside) are for mockup puposes only, use the proper pressure plate fasteners.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_5060-1.jpg
I have been raising quite a few eyebrows when I tell people I am running an aluminum flywheel. Here is some discussion of the issue: https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55266 . I think I am a good candidate for an aluminum flywheel, based on my gearing. I could be shooting myself in the foot on this one, but I know this is something that I will regret if I don't try for myself. Make sure you are using flywheel bolts, not just any old grade 8 hardware. Here I used ARP 2801.

Next, I mocked up my new starter (Summit 820323) to check for tooth alignment:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_5064-1.jpg
I used 2 shims to achieve proper alignment per the instructions. I didn't have to knock out the "knock out plate" on the block protector, so that was good.

Aluminum isn't magnetic:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_5069-1.jpg
Much tougher to find a good mounting position for your dial indicator when doing a bellhousing alignment if your magnetic base indicator doesn't stick to a good portion of your flywheel. I had to use the bolts and the friction surface simultaneously...it was stable though. This was by far the most tedius task of the whole process.

About the bellhousing alignment, there is plenty of information online about how to do it. www.classicchevy5speed.com has a video, and there are tons of other resources... if your engine is out of the car, I would recommend you do it yourself. It may take a weekend of zen-like patience, because you're knocking dowel pins in and out, positioning your dial indicator, and bolting and unbolting your bellhousing, but it's not difficult.

Here's the bellhousing I am using, Lakewood 15030:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_5065-1.jpg
In conjunction with the pilot bearing I showed you, this particular Lakewood is used to adapt a Ford-input-shaft TKO to a small block chevy. The Ford input shaft is roughly 0.3" longer, so the bellhousing is longer to accomodate. I have read (and believe) that the Quicktime bellhousing (RM-6064) is more spot-on than the Lakewood, but I got this bellhousing used so it was worth a try.

My remarks on Offset Dowels
In addition to the straight dowels, I bought all 3 offsets: 0.007, 0.014, 0.021 to have on hand. The dowels themselves come with no mention of where the high/low point actually is on the dowel, stupid. Anyways, what I did is just put a straight dowel side by side with an offset dowel and shine light through them. A little crude, but my brother and I both came up with the same point, so I was satisfied. After 6 alignment tries and the typical dial indicator math (a couple just to ensure repeatability), I came within the 0.005 tolerance using the 0.007 dowels clocked at about 12:30. Parallelism was within 0.002 as well. My experience, Lakewood isn't so bad.

To round out the weekend with some eye candy, I mocked up my 10.4" Centerforce dual friction clutch & pressure plate (DF161739) on the flywheel (note again that the pressure plate bolts I show are for mockup only...will use proper hardware for final install):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_5072-1.jpg

Centerforce lists 3 dual friction clutches for SBCs:
DF161056 $ XXX ftlbs <--weakest one
DF161675 $$ 430 ftlbs <--marginal for me if I decide to run slicks
DF161739 $$$ 530 ftlbs <--just right

Summit racing lists the clutch I got for Pontiacs only...but a call to Centerforce said that it can be used on SBC's as well.

Well that was 2 days worth of work; thanks for tuning in. Getting there!

[sik68]

I put together a calculation to compare my car's gearing with several of the benchmark cars I have in mind. This gives a pretty good impression of how much torque multiplication different cars are running in each gear.

The speed comparison is done at 6500rpm...obviously some of the cars here can rev further than that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/GEARING_COMP-1.jpg

Some of my observations:
1) The lower torque, 6 cylinder cars (GT3 and GT-R) run much steeper gearing than their V8 counterparts. Look at the GT-R coming out of the hole!

2) The GT3 has very close ratios, especially 4th through 6th. 6th is only barely an overdrive.

3) If you don't like shifting that much, get a C6 z06

4) Tire diameter is important. The 2010 Camaro SS needs to lose the SUV tires.

5) I have great torque multiplication down low...I should be able to hang with some of the big power boys until aerodynamics takes over.

[Bryce]

cool project, I am 25 and have been working on my car for 9yrs. i have done all the work myself as well. good job.

and those are the wheels i decided for my car. good choice.

[1badchevelle]

Any new update. I just read your build not sure how I missed it this long.

Great work you are doing.

[sik68]

Any new update. I just read your build not sure how I missed it this long.

Great work you are doing.

Thank you very much for following along, actually I do have an update I've been meaning to post.



With this latest step, the saga of my Ford TKO to the SBC I believe is finally over. The mounting pad of the transmission case had to be drilled/tapped for the chevy transmission mount bolt pattern. The Ford bolt pattern is wider than the Chevy. I marked my holes, and carefully aligned the tranny, upside-down, under the drill press. In this picture, you can see the Ford transmission bolt holes at the wider spacing.

Drill:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5186-1.jpg

Tap:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5187-1.jpg

Mount:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5188-1.jpg

Whew! That took some cajones.

Next, I had to buy the correct throwout bearing. I had originally bought the Chevy throwout bearing, N1716, but the inner diameter is too small and won't slide on the snout of the input shaft. The Ford N1714 is the correct bearing with the larger ID. I'm disappointed though, that it doesn't fit into the clutch fork as well as the chevy does, as there's a bit of slop that's not present with the Chevy throwout.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5182-1.jpg


MODO PEDALS: MONEY WELL SPLURGED

I have the Lokar midnight throttle pedal assembly, but I wanted to take it up a notch, so I ordered the 110L pedal pad setup from Modo Innovations. Shannon Odom wasy very helpful. 940-391-9002.

Here's a comparison of the Modo pedal with the Lokar pedal:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5196-1.jpg

Installing the brake and clutch pedal pads to the pedals was pretty easy. The only thing I didn't like was how close to the corners you have to drill the holes into the pedal. It turned just fine though.
Here's my setup, shown with everything you need to git-r-done:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5203-1.jpg

The result:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5198-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/IMG_5205-1.jpg

Thanks for staying tuned!

Steven

[PhillipM]

One question.. why not just grab a Ford trans mount instead of redrilling the trans?

[sik68]

One question.. why not just grab a Ford trans mount instead of redrilling the trans?

Hi Phillip, believe me I was looking high and low, but I couldn't find one that matched my aftermarket crossmember bolt spacing.

[Motown 454]

Nice progress

[HILLBILLY68]

anyting new yet

[PhillipM]

Hi Phillip, believe me I was looking high and low, but I couldn't find one that matched my aftermarket crossmember bolt spacing.

Aghh.. I didn't think about that part. Nice work.

[sik68]

7/20/09 UPDATE

I made a lot of progress this weekend, inching ever closer to sliding the engine and tranny in. Did a lot of nitty gritty stuff which isn't really worth photographs. However, I took advantage of the room under the hood clean up the wiring and install my new 6AL-2 MSD ignition box.

My mounting solution for the box is inside the car, supported by the ash tray bracket. I think its pretty slick...covert, yet still easy to access when I want to play with the rev limits. Unclutters the engine bay as well.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/IMG_1455-1.jpg

Undo the two knobs, and you can take the box off:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/IMG_1456-1.jpg

Hidden:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/IMG_1460-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/IMG_1458-1.jpg

[TA219]

As I re-read some of your posts, I noticed that you were having an issue with your brake travel and in the video you commented that they werent working that great.... did you ever resolve that? Curious to find out what your issue was.

[sik68]

As I re-read some of your posts, I noticed that you were having an issue with your brake travel and in the video you commented that they werent working that great.... did you ever resolve that? Curious to find out what your issue was.

Hey Wayne, I never got the system bled properly so it was just air in the lines. I'm going to get a vacuum bleeder to do it right.

[sik68]

8/18 UPDATE

Finally had a free weekend to get down-n-dirty. Before I get into Saturday's and Sundays activities though, I realized it has been nearly 2 years to the day, when I started my Pro-Touring build. So to commemorate the occasion, here's the Cliff's notes on this build thread.

Suspension
-Began by completely gutting the stock suspension and drum brakes.
-Installed Global West solid body mounts
-Front Suspension is Global West control arms, ATS Spindles, Hotchkis Sway Bar
-Rear Suspension is Gobal West leafs with del-a-lum bushings.

Brakes
-Manual Wilwood master cylinder
-C5 Corvette brakes front and rear

Body
-Paint will be last...primer is a liberating experience.

Engine
-Put Pro-Topline heads on my stock 327, but it was still puking antifreeze into my oil after 2 gasket changes
-Screw it, had Rex Hutchison Racing build the solid roller 355 I had in my head for years. Could have gone with more ci, but I like the "more with less" approach.

Driveline
-With the engine swap, I also converted from the TH350 to a TKO
-Aluminum flywheel
-Centerforce clutch
-3.73 rear end


Okay, now that we're one the same page, this weekend I slid the 355/TKO into my car.

Here is the assembly all bolted up, ready to go into the car. (In the background, that's my brother's 70 he just got for high school graduation)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/IMG_01661-1.jpg

The first time around, I forgot the throwout bearing...DOH!

Just the tip:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/IMG_01701-1.jpg

Almost there:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/IMG_01721-1.jpg

In!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/IMG_01751-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/IMG_01771-1.jpg

Along with the engine install, I cut the shifter hole, tightened down some brake fittings, cleaned up some wiring, and installed some of the clutch linkage. Shouldn't be too long now!

[Damn True]

Atta boy!

[TonyHuntimer]

And back together (Black widow got WD-40 to the face when I realized she was there):

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/06/IMG_0726-1.jpg



I hope you took care of the male black widow on the floorpan near the body bushing. I'm guessing those are not the only two spiders on your car, so be careful. :)

Cool project!

[Jarcaines]

I love this project. Thanks for keeping us updated.

[Tucks69]

Glad to see you almost got it back together!

[T_Raven]

Very nice

[dolf]

So did you switch to the DSE leafs or are the pics on the ground with the GW cat 5's? Looks great. I am doing a very similar "more with less" build

[sik68]

So did you switch to the DSE leafs or are the pics on the ground with the GW cat 5's? Looks great. I am doing a very similar "more with less" build

Hi Dolf, I'm using the Global West L2 springs...the DSE stuff I have in the back is only the multileaf shock plates and the multi-leaf adapter kit.

Also, pay no attention to the ride height yet...the springs are far from settled. Every time I stand on the rear bumper, then get off, it gets a little lower. Haha. The car needs to jounce around on the road for a while.

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

alriiiiiight!!!

[sik68]

Hi all, long time no see. The last time I worked on the car, I had a terrible weekend, so I decided to skip on an update. What I encountered last time is in grave detail here (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60046) but it can be summed up in this picture:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/IMG_0197-1.jpg

I decided to abandon my effort to run clutch linkage, and go full hydraulic. This weekend was the 5th time I had my engine in and out. Between myself, my dad, and my brother, we can pull the engine/tranny in ~5 minutes and re-install in about 15...we've had lots of practice.

Having never encountered hydraulic clutch setups in my life, I was a complete newbie. After reading many threads and talking with many helpful people on this site (special shoutout to Frank at Prodigy, for talking me through my problem even when he had nothing to sell me), I had come up with the following components for my install:

Keisler hydraulic clutch kit (minus the throwout bearing), which includes Wilwood 3/4" MC
Mcleod 1400-30 slip-on throwout bearing (for my Ford input shaft)
4ft of -4AN steel braided hose
Misc. earl's fittings...

Here is a picture of the main components:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/IMG_0241-1.jpg

You can see on the MC that there is a machined billet base, which is what Keisler provides to align the MC pushrod to the clutch pedal holes. Nice jobto Keisler for a quality setup. Just make sure that the master cylinder pushrod doesn't kink during pedal travel. I had this problem and had to drill another hole lower on the pedal to prevent binding. It's 3/4" lower than the other hole, so it should not increase pedal effort too much more.

Next, the throwout bearing. Here it is on the input shaft.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/IMG_0243-1.jpg
Setting up the proper length was super easy...there's a threaded sleeve that slips on the input shaft first, then the TO bearing threads onto the sleeve. Just turn it on the threads until proper length is achieved.

Here is a picture of the two hose ends from the TO bearing out of the clutch fork hole, bleeder end goes on top:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/IMG_0263-1.jpg

Lucky for me, I didn't have to redo any of my brake lines. With a little encouragement, everything seemed to just clear and turned out to be a pretty compact arrangement:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/IMG_0267-1.jpg
Gotta love the increasingly prevelant blue/red fitting look!

With my clutch problems solved and the engine and tranny in, I believe it's all downhill from here. It's now just a matter of getting the engine ready for its first fire. Hopefully in early November.

Thanks for staying tuned!
Steven

[PhillipM]

Post deleted... I just read your other one..

[Damn True]

Atta-boy! Keep it up. You are going to be on the road soon!

[John Wright]

Looking good, like stated above, keep at it...you're knocking out that to-do list pretty fast IMHO.

[Jarcaines]

Awesome, glad you got it worked out. I love this build!

[sik68]

Hi everybody. I didn't realize it has been nearly 3 months since my last update. For the most part though, I've been doing nothing car-related...as I popped the question to my long time girlfriend, Jackie. As of December 5th, we're engaged!

Ok, back to car stuff. Christmas week (this week) I have off, so I will be getting a lot done.

Today (tuesday) was an epic day: the first ignition of my new 355.
9hYyyV9wkXo

I was losing hope that this day would ever come...I am still partly in shock that car is running.

As a side note, I also installed my prototype for my clutch pedal stop. It is a rubber foot sandwiched between washers, with a screw through it, a couple nuts for pre-tension, a threaded sleeve for adjustability, and another flat screw. I came up with this setup because it will work with the Modo pedal covers I have.

It doesn't look super strong but I think it will get the job done...I am going to try it out and see if it holds up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_0633-1.jpg

And here it is installed:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_0640-1.jpg

Check back soon as I will be working on the car today, tomorrow, and Thursday. Should be picking up the new driveshaft, installing the radiator, water pump, power steering, and bleeding the clutch. Trackday may just be on the road soon!

Thanks,
Steven

[67 ls1 vert]

The look on the kids face when the carb back fired with a flame. LOL

ahhh, nevermind look. 17 secs.

[CruizinKev]

congrats to you and your gf! :twothumbs
..car's lookin good!!

[Tucks69]

Glad to see you got the Camaro running again. Congrats on the engagement!!

[PhillipM]

Hi everybody. I didn't realize it has been nearly 3 months since my last update. For the most part though, I've been doing nothing car-related...as I popped the question to my long time girlfriend, Jackie. As of December 5th, we're engaged!

Ok, back to car stuff. Christmas week (this week) I have off, so I will be getting a lot done.

Today (tuesday) was an epic day: the first ignition of my new 355.

I was losing hope that this day would ever come...I am still partly in shock that car is running.

As a side note, I also installed my prototype for my clutch pedal stop. It is a rubber foot sandwiched between washers, with a screw through it, a couple nuts for pre-tension, a threaded sleeve for adjustability, and another flat screw. I came up with this setup because it will work with the Modo pedal covers I have.

It doesn't look super strong but I think it will get the job done...I am going to try it out and see if it holds up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_0633-1.jpg

And here it is installed:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_0640-1.jpg

Check back soon as I will be working on the car today, tomorrow, and Thursday. Should be picking up the new driveshaft, installing the radiator, water pump, power steering, and bleeding the clutch. Trackday may just be on the road soon!

Thanks,
Steven

So why the need for the pedal stop? Are you over stroking the throw out bearing? I have done a couple hydro units (using GM parts) and haven't needed anything like this...

[Damn True]

Atta boy!

Congrats on the engagement!

[19sixtynine]

Nice work Steven! I've been following this thread for a while and also used it a few times for reference when I did my KORE 3 upgrade. I'm so glad to see you've finally got it running!!

Congrats on the car, oh ya and the engagement too...hee hee

R

[Jim Nilsen]

The video was great, the car sounds good and healthy.

Now I have to catch back up.

Have a good Holiday

[PhillipM]

I installed the proper bracket (kore3) to run the integrated parking brake in the future, but I am not installing it until I run a manual tranmission. You can find some bracket pictures a page or 2 ago.

As for the wheels, I have ordered them, and I'll reveal once they arrive at my house :) I'm pretty excited.

Thanks!

Are you going to add that parking brake now??? :)

[sik68]

Thanks everybody! Today was really productive, as I reinstalled items that have already been in the car once before...no surprises. The driveshaft is in. 3" diameter steel, nothing special. 46.5" u-joint center to center, making it ~3" shorter than the driveshaft with my TH350. Nerd FYI, based on the online calculators, the shorter length is worth about a 20% increase in critical speed. With the 0.68 overdrive and 3.73 gears...that shaft will be spinning pretty fast.

Tomorrow I will bleed the clutch and do a couple tidying-up things...possibly even driving the car up and down the driveway a couple times to test the brakes and clutch.

Stay tuned! Hopefully I will have more breakthroughs tomorrow.


Are you going to add that parking brake now??? :)

Glad you're keeping me honest, Phillip! The pedal stop is because the TO bearing allowable travel is about 0.6", which equals 1.2" at the master cylinder pushrod. The Camaro clutch pedal ratio is about 4.6:1 IIRC, so if I push 5.6" on the pedal then that is full travel...not sure if the pedal can move that far, but back when I measured, it was close. Also though, Mcleod recommends a pedal stop to be set just after full release of the clutch: http://www.mcleodind.com/downloads/install_instr/McLeod_INSTR_1400SlipOn_WEB.pdf

As for the emergency brake...yes it's a must-do. Tobin will be getting a call soon before I get any serious seat time in the car.

[sik68]

It's almost ready...

YfnbwkMvm-g

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

aww yea!

and thats a nice lil promo for the car!

feels good to know youll be ridin soon doesnt it!

[CruizinKev]

niiiice!

[CliffS]

sweet, love that sound!!

[RJ66]

Sounds good, glad to see you got it back toghether again so you can get to driving soon.:drive1:

Randy(D&Z Customs LLC.)
[email protected]
1-262-347-9741

[dropit69]

Wohoo its alive !!! congrats Man sounds mean too !!

[DFRESH]

I've been following your progress all along---this is by far one of my favorite ones to watch come together--your age, the car, the fact that it is being done a piece at a time, you've had setbacks and overcome each one---now you are engaged---dude--this almost sounds like an after school special---LOL!

I'm lovin this one---bring that car to Pleasanton in June for some small auto X action--there will be quite a few of us attending--i wanna see this car and meet you there---keep up the posts and the great work!!

Doug

[Pagani]

Badass car looks like a sleeper
Very clean sounds great whit the open exhaust

[68byrd]

Great sound to it. The video is really good too. I can't wait to see some track day vids. Keep the updates coming! The mini-lite style wheels look great on the car. Good choice.

[srh3trinity]

The car is looking great. I don't know about a sleeper look like Pagani suggests. Looks and sounds more like it would beat you up and take your lunch money. Are you going to paint it anytime soon? What color? The wheels look great.

[Motown 454]

It sounds awesome!

[Motown 454]

ttt

[sik68]

Hi everyone. It's been a long time coming, and I've been through many ups and downs to achieve the moment that happened this past Sunday. Trackday finally stretched its legs on public roads for the first time:

_UsFvk1FXMM

There are still many items on the to do list, but this moment was truly monumental. After so many setbacks, I am still in shock that it happened.

I am still working out a clutch release/shift issue that unfolded here (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?p=616891#post616891) in the emergency room. For quick reference, my hydraulic throwout bearing was leaking into my bellhousing. After much consideration, I decided to remove the weights from my centerforce dual friction clutch, as they were likely interfering with the larger-than-usual diameter of the Mcleod 1400 bearing, causing the bearing to tilt, compromising the o-ring seal.

As much as I love the open headers...the "loud pipes saves lives" mantra apparently only works when you're on a hog. So I am going with an aggressive exhaust setup: 3" tube, Magnaflow X pipe, and Borla XR1 (Summit 40944) mufflers, dumped before the axle. Should sound pretty good...of course you'll get the scoop when they're installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_0670-1.jpg

Lastly, I was experiencing engine run-on. It's really weird when you key-off the car and the beast keeps running. After much research on forums and MSD site, the simple fix was to install a diode in line with the wire that runs from the alternator to the idiot light. Picked up a 4 pack from Radioshack (part 276-1661). I know the install looks a bit janky, but it actually holds together real well plus I shrinkwrapped it:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_0661-1.jpg


Thanks for hanging with me after all these years and posts, and advising me along the way. I plan to post an article soon detailing my first impressions of the car.

Hooray!
Steven

[PhillipM]

Congrats bud. Nice work.

[Motown 454]

Congratulations That first ride has to be sweet!

[Cano]

it sounded really cool with the open exhaust! haha!

Really nice to see this thing finally moving. Those backroads look like the perfect proving (predating) grounds. We need to see some fly-bys.

[olds87]

Congratulations on getting your car moving down the street.

[CruizinKev]

Congratulations on getting your car moving down the street.
x2 congrats!! :twothumbs :twothumbs :twothumbs

[garner67]

A huge congrats to you, Steven! I've really enjoyed reading the posts of your build.

There's nothing quite like the first drive, huh?. You must have received a lot of looks with open headers! :firefire:

I remember my first drive like yesterday. Now, I'm almost done reassembling everything after new paint!

Thanks for posting the video. It won't be long, and you'll be on the track. Who knows maybe I'll get to see TrackDay at a local open track event this year?!

Keep up the great work.

[John Wright]

Good to see you enjoying your car! Congrats on the first drive.

[sik68]

Thanks for the cheers everybody!


A huge congrats to you, Steven! I've really enjoyed reading the posts of your build.

There's nothing quite like the first drive, huh?. You must have received a lot of looks with open headers!

I remember my first drive like yesterday. Now, I'm almost done reassembling everything after new paint!

Thanks for posting the video. It won't be long, and you'll be on the track. Who knows maybe I'll get to see TrackDay at a local open track event this year?!

Keep up the great work.

Hey thanks Garner! Driving through an industrial park early Sunday morning, you wouldn't believe how many people came out of nowhere to see my car rumble by, haha. I'm really tempted to put some electric cutouts in.:evil:

I hope to see you at some events this year. I already have a to-do list of tasks that it will take to pass tech. Do you have a list of local events you recommend? Autox, HPDE, etc? I think I need a lot of seat time before I feel warmed up to do an open event. I'd like to hear how you got started.

Thanks,
Steven

[68400BIRD]

I just refreshed myself with all 11 pages again. I'm very impressed with what you have done with your car. It's a great feeling getting the car on the road for the first time. It's funny each time you drive it it will be further away from where all the wrenching was done. The safer you feel with the car the longer the trips will get. Good luck and keep the updates coming.

[garner67]

Thanks for the cheers everybody!



Hey thanks Garner! Driving through an industrial park early Sunday morning, you wouldn't believe how many people came out of nowhere to see my car rumble by, haha. I'm really tempted to put some electric cutouts in.:evil:

I hope to see you at some events this year. I already have a to-do list of tasks that it will take to pass tech. Do you have a list of local events you recommend? Autox, HPDE, etc? I think I need a lot of seat time before I feel warmed up to do an open event. I'd like to hear how you got started.

Thanks,
Steven

I haven't sorted out my schedule for this year yet. I usually spend most of my track time with the http://www.norcal-saac.org/ot/otcentrl.htm (NorCal SAAC), and you'll see their schedule in that link. They are a good group of folks with a lot of track experience. Every spring they have a open track driving school event, which is a great way to get exposed to track driving. However, I'm not sure if you'll be ready for a track event by April?

I would like to try some different/new track events that have all makes of cars. One of my neighbors participates in track events with a local Lotus club, which might be fun... and their track day prices are pretty good. Also, I've always wanted to do the Virginia City Hill Climb put on by a Ferrari club. Other than that, I'll be watching this forum to find something new to try.

[sik68]

Everyone knows the stock Camaro seats have about as much support as the back of a rodeo bull. I've been searching for fixed-back seats ever since. Swooped up this Sparco Pro2000 seat on Craigslist. It's FIA legal AND it was in a Corvette transam race car so it's got some battlescars. Badass.

It's 19lbs (+weight of brackets)...If I get 2 of these things, that's got to save me at least 60lbs over the stockers. Will have a full weight comparison when I install it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_0673-1.jpg

[montessaj]

I am completely impressed with this build. Congrats on the first drive! I love those seats also.

[Smock67]

Nice looking seat you have there. If you could take a picture with someone sitting in that seat from a perpendicular view like by the window i would really appreciate it. Ive seen a few fixed back seats go for cheap on craigslist but am unsure of getting them for a few reasons.

[sik68]

Nice looking seat you have there. If you could take a picture with someone sitting in that seat from a perpendicular view like by the window i would really appreciate it. Ive seen a few fixed back seats go for cheap on craigslist but am unsure of getting them for a few reasons.

Like this? I'm 5'6" and 150 lbs. The guy I bought it from was 5'10" 180lbs and it probably fit him snug. For me I still have a little room to move side to side (but still by far the most supportive and assuring seat I've ever sat in); I'm hoping if I get the lumbar pads it will snug me up a bit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_0674-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

Like this? I'm 5'6" and 150 lbs. The guy I bought it from was 5'10" 180lbs and it probably fit him snug. For me I still have a little room to move side to side (but still by far the most supportive and assuring seat I've ever sat in); I'm hoping if I get the lumbar pads it will snug me up a bit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_0674-1.jpg

All you need to complete that is a steering wheel and pedal and your good to go race Grand Torismo 5!

[PhillipM]

So did you only score 1 seat? Also, are you planning to roll those seats all the time or just for track days?

[sik68]

So did you only score 1 seat? Also, are you planning to roll those seats all the time or just for track days?

Yeah I scored just 1 seat :( ...almost bought another one used as well from a different guy, but it was already sold. It may be OK though...I was thinking I would run a more tame seat for the passenger anyways. Ala Sparco Chrono Sport possibly so most everyone can ride. I'll probably keep the Pro2000 seat in my car at all times unless I can't stand it. If the geezers that drive Scuderias and GT3s can tolerate fixed back seats, I figure I should too! I have a feeling that's a leading question; I'm missing something?

Eventually if I cage it, I'll do the 5pt harness but for now I'll just do the 3pt belts.

[Nessumsar]

I have two fixed-back off road seats in my Nova, I plan on getting a more "tame" seat for the passengers, some of my larger friends have a hard time fitting...

[Neil B]

That was so cool to watch the video and hear your excitement. Congratulations, you've done a great job!

[Chad-1stGen]

That was so cool to watch the video and hear your excitement. Congratulations, you've done a great job!

Agreed. Good to see someone else on here who has to drive their car as soon as it's drivable, long before it's done. I still remember my first drive back in 2006 and how stoked I was!

Just be careful. My car first drove in 2006 and I still haven't finished lots of little things. Once you can drive the car it is a lot more fun to drive it rather than work on it.

[Jim Nilsen]

Congratulations !!!!!

You have the look I had many years ago when I did my first cam swap all by myself.

The car sounds awesome and looks to handle well too.

Now you have to hold back and break it in right. It looks like you have a great little track made thru the industrial park.

:cheers:

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

cool video ...another bay area pt car !

[1994 Python]

Wow! Just found this tread for the first time. I definately love the rims on the car. Looks great. Can't wait for more updates. It's good to see somone have so much fun witht their build, and driving the car in primer. Way to much is put on about having a good paint job. Its all about getting out and enjoying the car.

[sik68]

Hi everyone! I finally have an update for you! I installed that Pro2000 seat I picked up a while back. Nothing says "I mean business" better than a fixed back seat that requires acrobatics to get in and out of. Just sitting in this thing is an adrenalin rush. Here's the weight comparison I promised:

Seat from a '69 Camaro (yes my car is a 68)
Weight: 48lbs

Pro2000 Seat
Sparco Side Mounts
Sparco Sliders
Sparco Adapter Base
Total Weight: 30lbs

Weight Savings: 18lbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_0822-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_0827-1.jpg

If I do a fixed back seat on the the pasenger side as well, and remove the rear seat entirely, I'm estimating a weight loss total of
18+18+50 = 86lbs! Boo Ya, free speed and handling. Now to get rid of all those boxes in my car, haha.

Instead of using bolts to fasten the seat base to the floor, I followed what TitoJones did and used studs to the floor...no more poking around the carpet to locate the seat. I used 2" studs and loctite-d them in place...now removing/installing the seat takes about 2 minutes.

Next time I have a chance to work on the car, I will hopefully be getting the exhaust installed and then sifting through the clutch release issue. Getting there!

Thanks!
Steven

[CruizinKev]

nice man! seat looks great! :twothumbs

[69camarokid]

dude this build thread is awesome!!!!!!

Im also 23 and have been building a 69 camaro very similar to yours for the past 5 years! You cancheck out my build thread, we did alot of stuff the same!

I gotta say though you seem to have a pretty healthy budget for someone of our age with the sparco seats and C5 brakes.... not too shabby. Hope the car is doing well

[Bob's68]

Great build you have given me so many ideas. I love the MSD idnition box behind the ash tray.

[syborg tt]

Instead of using bolts to fasten the seat base to the floor, I followed what TitoJones did and used studs to the floor...no more poking around the carpet to locate the seat. I used 2" studs and loctite-d them in place...now removing/installing the seat takes about 2 minutes.
Steven

Seats look great & I like the idea of the studs.

[ROBS6T8]

Seats look great & I like the idea of the studs.

X2... great idea. why didn't I think of that? Such a PIA getting the seats in and out. Will be doing that!

[MarkM66]

Bolts through the bottom would be even easier then a loctited stud, easier to install and to remove. :)

[sik68]

dude this build thread is awesome!!!!!!

Im also 23 and have been building a 69 camaro very similar to yours for the past 5 years! You cancheck out my build thread, we did alot of stuff the same!

I gotta say though you seem to have a pretty healthy budget for someone of our age with the sparco seats and C5 brakes.... not too shabby. Hope the car is doing well

Thanks! It's actually been several years since I've been 23 though...thanks for reminding me how long this car has taken :crying: I've seen your build quite a bit and I'm always really impressed by how gutsy you've been on your project...body work and paint I don't know if I could have the courage to do. It's good to see you got your insurance situation straightened out...sounds like a reasonable deal.

Hopefully we can meet up at an event sometime either up here or down there!


Bolts through the bottom would be even easier then a loctited stud, easier to install and to remove.

Yes definitely...I don't know if the loctite will hold forever on the studs if I am in-out with the seats quite a bit. If I ever need to remove the carpet I'll be switching to the "upside-down bolts" if possible.

[Dalamar]

I enjoyed reading through your build - nicely done. that's a good looking car with great mods.
Congradulations on getting engauged!

[sik68]

Thanks, Dalamar!

Maybe you can tell that with my last couple purchases, that lately I have been on a crusade to save weight on my car. Today I picked up a used fiberglass hood that came with hood locks as shown in the picture...me likey the weight savings, and now I can ditch the latch as well with something more secure. It's a gamble if it will fit my car well; I will install the pins and test fit it soon. Yes it's purple; I hope it doesn't clash with my rattle can primered car ;).

Fiberglass hood weight: 25.8 lbs

Does anyone know the weight of a steel cowl hood? I hope the weights savings is worth it!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_0859-1.jpg

[DFRESH]

That is probably one of the best videos of all time---you brought back a bunch of memories for me--good ones--thanks for sharing that--was great to hear how excited you were---I'm 40 now, and I swear to you, I can reconnect with that same feeling you had on your first drive with mine. I can still remember it clearly. I've enjoyed watching your build more than most, since you are doing it on your own and piece by piece. It's a great thing to see come together. Hope to see you in Pleasanton in June!

Doug

[John Wright]

Fiberglass hood weight: 25.8 lbs

Does anyone know the weight of a steel cowl hood? I hope the weights savings is worth it!


Trust me...the steel hood weighs alot more than 26lbs. At least the hood on my 70 camaro does.

[Bryce]

My steel hood on my falcon weighed 43.5 lbs. My fiberglass hood weighs 17.5. The carbon fiber hood on the 65 mustang weighs 16.

[ROEINONDUBS]

car looks good bro its nice too see another budget build in the bay area.

[Stoker420]

very nice work

[LV42DAY]

what a great build. your doing a killer job documenting all of it, keep up the good work. the first drive video is priceless. i can definitely relate to the feeling of finally getting it out on the road after having life get in the way so many times it seems like its never going to get anywhere.

i might be posting my build on here later on, im likely to describe all the hurdles i had to go through to get it going in mine (still jumping hurdles).

[sik68]

Thanks you guys very much, I really appreciate it!

This weekend I had a chance to work on the car, dealing with 2 things:

1. Clutch Release Issue
The problem is still that as I drive the car (took a 45 minute drive before it acted up), the shifting quality degrades within two to three shifts until I can no longer choose a gear at all. As you may remember, I have been stumped and frustrated for months. Now I have likely narrowed it down to a bad hydraulic throwout bearing that loses travel as it gets used.

My method to definitively test this was to support the rear axle of the car on jack stands, and with the car on, play with the clutch and the gears to see under what condition the wheels will turn and won't turn. The results were, that when the car was left to cool down, the clutch pedal DID RELEASE. However, when the car was warm, the clutch would drag, causing the wheels to turn even with the pedal pushed down all the way (bottoming out the master cylinder). Additionally, there is clutch fluid sprayed throughout the underside of my car....there's a leak somewhere. My feeling is that heat is causing the leak and thus, a release issue.

Any advice? I plan to take the McLeod 1400 unit out to inspect all of the o-rings and if they are damaged, replace the o rings. If there is nothing that looks wrong, I am going to assume the Mcleod unit is crap and get a Howe or Quartermaster unit.

2. Subframe Connectors

Ok, on a positive note, I installed bolt-on subframe connectors from Competition Engineering that I got used from Craigslist. They went in as easy as could be expected. Just unbolt the front perch connection, use a pry bar to flex the leaf spring, and slide the connector in place. It takes some patience to align the holes to the clips, but it works. The connectors do push into the floorboards creating some deflection of the floorboard, but it's ok for me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_0860-1.jpg

Thanks for tuning in!
Steven

[DYNODANNY]

Bad Ass! Sounds Nice.

[csx4766]

Sounds like a bad clutch master cylinder. Give my friend Bruce a call at Modern Driveline. He can put you onthe right path.

Morgan

[LSx_88_Ciera]

Just read through your build and have to give it :twothumbs, I thoroughly enjoyed it and when you took it on out for the maiden voyage seeing your excitement made me smile. Keep up the good work and don't be apprehensive about doing anything you seem to be intelligent and when all else fails there is always e-support.

[Jim Nilsen]

I feel your clutch pain.

I have had good luck with the latest version from Howe. So far so good.

If the TOB was used or over extended it had a chance to ruin the seals.

I had to put new seals that were only .003 larger in dia. than the ones it came with and it is the difference between shift and fail.
The Howe does have the ring that keeps it from over extending and it really does work ,I know because I blew the smaller seals out and never over extended it,and is a good backup to a pedal stop.

Fix the seals with new ones to be sure. They are probably around 15 -25 bucks worth of insurance and you get a chance to clean out any old gunk that might be in there.

Good luck and hope you get it back on the road soon.

[youngdeezy]

Congratulations, this build is bad ass and i just went over all 13 pages! Its really cool to see another young guy getting down with his car, you have motivated me. I would love to see this ride in person someday. I'm a local bay guy with a 80's g-body. 1 day i plan to move into the camaro lane and purchase a 68 but its just a dream at the moment. so far i haven't had to many sacramento adventures but i have friends in walnut creek so maybe we can meet up sometime. I'm subscribed

[Gitter Dun]

Today is the first day I have come across this thread and I must say I am thoroughly impressed. Looks like it all started in August of '07 and here you are still plugging away in 2010. It looks like all of your trials and tribulations have been a big help to all that have joined in with your build. I wish I had known of this site when I started my build in 2002. Great job Steven, you are on top with all of us other tight budgeted," more plans then money" builders. How soon before she sees some track time?