primer by rattle can?

[dannyho]

I'm getting ready to take the car down to the metal and sand it, I'm going to be able to fit it in my garage, but just barely. I don't currently have a compressor, I was planning on bringing it somewhere when it's ready for paint, but for now I have to do the bondo/primer step. Is there a way I can do this without spending for a compressor/gun setup. I suspect this stage is going to take a while. I was hoping I could do the car in steps, then go back over it with a good primer with a gun just before color goes on.
I'm new to paint and primer, and honestly not really positive I know it all. I understand I need to do the bondo, then an etching primer, then an epoxy sealer, unless I use an etching epoxy primer ( i guess). I have some local help I'm going to lean on, but I'd really like an opinion of what do you guys would recommend I do.
if you were to tell me that the only way to do it is to get a compressor and gun-spray an epoxy on step by step I could make that happen, but I'd like to avoid that investment if possible.

Thank you guys so much, this forum has been such a help for me throughout this build and will continue as such I'm sure

Dan

[Tom Welch]

Go to a local paint and body supply store, they can advise you in person about what to use, and how to go about it. I have used spray can primer from the Autocolor store, it's made by RM, I think. It has worked rather well over the last 5 years. I also got some epoxy 2 part primer and a bunch of Preval sprayers. I have no compressor either.

[cougarfiend]

I have used the spray can primer in the past at work, it does ok. It doesn't offer anywhere near the benifits of the primer applied by a gun though. A compressor will really make you life easier when it comes to doing the body. I don't know what i'd do without mine.

[ProdigyCustoms]

There are some pretty high quality spray bomb etching and high build primers now. We use stuff by SEM. We use them around the shop for tiny touch up areas

[yodas little brother]

get a compressor youll need it for the bondo work

[dannyho]

I"ll see what I can do about that, but im really just concerned about taking the paint off and putting down that first coat. Once it's completely done I can drag it to a better place and burn through the night a few times to bondo and throw a good primer on it. Or is that bad? I have an old belt driven compressor that has a habit of throwing the belt, so i'll give it another try to see if I can get that working.

the other problem is that the garage the car is in is part of the house, I'd feel bad about spraying normal primer, and putting epoxy down in there is therefore not an option.

[indyjps]

paint stores can mix the primer you need and put it into a can. Ive had them do touch up single stage paint before. dont know how well it will work with primer/activator. best bet is to buy a compressor you need one in the car building stages, if not use the best primer you can get in rattle can. most paint shop wont touch it with rattle can on it and require you to use a sealer before they start their paint work.

[rohrt]

What do you plan on taking the paint off with? Chemicle stipper? I just looked at my Harbor Frieght flyer and they have a smaller 20 gallon comprssor for $150. So a cheap HVLP gun, air hose and connections and maybe a v-grinder would set you back $250-300. Just a guess. I would think twice before starting body work with out the right tools and supplies, it just makes life miserable.

I did my car as a DIY job. I used a V-grinder and took all the paint off and spayed the car down with a good 2 part self etching primer to keep it from rusting. SEM makes rattle can self etching primer but I would not trust using it on the body.

I have seen other do great body work without air tools so its not a requirement.

[hotrdblder]

they cannot mix good 2k primer and put it in a can, it would harden in whatever the pot life is for the product, only 1k products can be put in a can

[cougarfiend]

there is a 2k spray can primer, i'll look at work tomorrow, and post the name and part number. We use it for small touch ups

[badbrad900rr]

just stay away from laquer primer. Our shop will not paint, or guarantee anything we do that has spray can primer on it unless it is stripped back off.

[hotrdblder]

how does someone make a 2k spray bomb?? what happens when you mix a high build primer with hardner and leave it in the gun or mixing cup? it hardens just as the primer in the can would, no way no how is it 2k, unless its mis labeled and they call reducer 2k

[BADVELLE]

There are some pretty high quality spray bomb etching and high build primers now. We use stuff by SEM. We use them around the shop for tiny touch up areas

Excellent stuff, the only spray can primer I use. I have used it for several small projects, including engines, perfect results.

[rohrt]

We have a place in town that can mix what ever you want in a rattle can. I suppose you could have a 2k paint mixed in one but you are right it would be a very short shelf life.

For engine parts and other things I was putting down some DP90 and then using a 60% gloss black that I had mixed in a rattle can while the primer was still tacky.

[70 Chevelle]

Doing things twice always costs more money. Spray cans cost money sandpaper cost money their small investments but over your entire build these costs add up. investing in tools to do the job better and quicker is always a wise choice. Would you rather have a pile of dust and sandpaper in your garage from spay cans and stripping twice or a compressor , sander , and spray gun you can use for years?

[cougarfiend]

I'm sorry I forgot to get the part number today. :pat: The stuff we have has a button on the bottom and when you hit it, it releases the hardner into the primer and you have 8 hours to use it. I promise I'll get the part number for you tommorrow.

[cougarfiend]

The stuff is called spray max, 2 part urthane rapid filler primer. The address on the side of the can is Peter Kwasny Inc. 510 Broadhollow road, suite 209, Melville, Ny 11747. Here is a link I found on google

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/manufacturers-spraymax.html

[dannyho]

great info. I have this old compressor that i really consider a deathtraps. It's been more trouble than its worth and almost took off my dad's finger. It's a belt driven compressor, and it looks like the way to tension the belt is to pull really hard on the electric motor and then tighten down it's bolts (they're all elongated holes). But I can never seem to get it tight enough, and it continuously throws belts, any tips on making that bad boy work?

[hotrdblder]

sounds more like a belt alignment issue then it is tension.check alignment

[nytal]

Once alignment is checked. Get some star"lock" washers to place on the bolt on each side of the hole.

[kstompaint]

Get a cheap compressor. You'll use it more than you think. You can buy a cheap spray gun for under $40. You'll waste more $ than that on spray can primer if you get decent stuff. Your painter will thank you.

[MonzaRacer]

You can get a decent Dewalt upright with a built in regulator for less than $400 from Lowes. Ill try to get the part number.
Just remember this if you buy a compressor look for one with dual power capability(thismeans its can be wired for 110 or 220) you cna use it as a 110 but the compressor works harder as 110 will not make 5 hp and you need 5 hp or bigger, I have a 15 gallon roll around from Craftsman, and if its set up dual you cna take a little time to wire for 220.
Also I hate oilelss compressors with a passion. I have ha 4 that ate the lunch in lessthan 8 hours of use,,,,my Craftsman gets oilchange every year(thinner oil for winter as its never been in an heated garage) and I got it in like 90 or 91.
Bigger tanks are better but you can also callaround to local gas companies and buy an extra standup 4 ft tank and tie it in as a resivior and adding in shut offs let you drain the compressor tank periodicly and it wont have to completely refill. I also have a line filter that uses screw on dessicant filter like oil filters.
as for a good gun to shoot primer through look at the Campbell Hausefield large cap, I think its a 6500 model,, mine is like almost 20 yrs old.
Also look at Astro Pneumatic gravity paint guns too.

[danbob67]

you guys might think this is crazy but one alternative if you dont have a compressor is to roll the primer on with a high density foam roller if you keep it real even it will actually look like it was sprayed on. this is just to keep the bare metal or fillers from the elements spraying of course is the most ideal method just putting it out there Ive seen it done and it actually works.

[StRacerDuke]

Do it right the first time and don't look back. Search this forum for all the different ways and steps to painting a car in the garage. I've done it half a dozen times or so and it's turned out great. (Search for some of my old posts in the paint section).

Here's what you need to do:
Buy a compressor. You're waisting your time trying to build a car without one.
Buy a cheap $30 primer gun.
Get some epoxy primer (PPG DP90 works great)
1MM drop cloths on your garage walls & floor
Shoot the car when it's bare metal. Make sure you vent the garage. The overspray is very light with primer.

Don't kid yourself thinking you will be able to have it painted in 4-6months. It will probably take you some time considering springing for a compressor is a big task (sorry, just the way I see it). Once it's in epoxy you can leave it indoors or out (indoors prefered) for years and you don't have to worry about it rusting under the epoxy. Primer, well it can rust under the primer because it's porus.

Search the paint section, there are some great threads here. I've learned a lot from some of the guys (Happyfunballs has some great info here too but I don't think he posts anymore)

[cad]

Here is an article with reference to painting with the SEM rattle can high build primer.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0704_how_to_paint_your_car_cheap/index.html