Drying your car after a wash..what to use??

[Tony_SS]

I have been using the Absorber but right before trading in my 06 Monte, I noticed a ton of fine scratches in the black paint.

I have newer paint on my 79 and want to baby it the best I can.

So what exact product, that will NOT leave any scratches, are you guys using to dry?

[EFI69Cam]

Cut the tags and edging off of good 100% cotton bath towels.

[jonnyc]

use an electric leaf blower to dry it.most of the scratches happen when you're washing it.you should use two buckets,one with soap/water and a screan.and the other with just water.after you wash a panel use the bucket of water to rinse the sponge before you dip it into the saop/water bucket.if the sponge hits the ground you need to rinse it out very well before it touches your paint again.

[Steve1968LS2]

use an electric leaf blower to dry it.most of the scratches happen when you're washing it.you should use two buckets,one with soap/water and a screan.and the other with just water.after you wash a panel use the bucket of water to rinse the sponge before you dip it into the saop/water bucket.if the sponge hits the ground you need to rinse it out very well before it touches your paint again.

Yep, I use a 200mph leaf blower to blow the car dry then 100% cotton towels to dry. Don't buy the cheap ones either.

I use a microfiber coated sponge from Meguires for washing.

[monza]

Ya I'd guess most of your scratchs come during washing. Two buckets and I found a natural sea sponge works really well, after preasure washing and pre soak.

For drying in like the leaf blower idea (off to home depot). I currently use a super absorbing drying towel called a P21S, bought it from a car detail 'spa.' Works really well.

[formula]

yup, a leaf blower and then microfiber drying towels are your best bet. But it's true, your scratches are probably from washing.

what are you using to polish the car? anything?

[Steve1968LS2]

Also, I've been considering the Mr. Clean system. Mainly for the rinse cycle. That combined with the leaf blower would seem to be a perfect combo. The pain with washing is getting all the water off and avoiding water spots.

Most scratches will happen during the washing phase..

[Tony_SS]

Never heard of the leaf blower to dry.. I have a gas powered one that I could use.

I just use a clean sponge and a bucket of rain x soap and water to wash. Guess I'm going to get 2 buckets now and a good Meguires mircro fiber sponge for washing.

Thats one thing I liked about using power washes.. the spot free rinse.. I guess its filtered water or something??

[nancejd]

I've used the Mr. Clean system. You just walk away when you're done, no drying required. It even leaves the glass spot free.

Definately use the microfiber towels when you wash it though, don't ever let them touch the ground, and wash them separately from all your other items in the washing machine. Washing them with your clothes can contaminate them with clothing fibers.

I'm also a fan of the two bucket system, it's amazing how much dirt ends up at the bottom of the rag rinse bucket.

[vanzuuk1]

Wash the car and rinse, get on the highway and nail it...


Seriously, I want to try one of those filtered rinse systems,the water at my house leaves nasty spots.


After I wash I use turtle wax ice or pledge (seriously) and it hides the fine scratches.

[MarkM66]

A clean absorber, for that car only.

[IBDMANN]

what exactly is the mr clean system?

[paul67]

Go on youtube and type it in theres some vids on how to use the system.

[MonzaRacer]

Well afterhaving worked at a Gm dealer as a clean up person, trust me cleaning a car after trade in is a bitch.
With out the professional washing soap I have figured out a neat mix and it does work.
Use a 5 gallon bucket,put in 3 gallons of hot tap water and a healthy squirt or Dawn dish soap (it cuts the grease and crud very well) but before you start add a 1/2 gallon of blue washer solvent, it helps with the drying process.
Wash in the cool shade, and rince well and as soon as you get it washed, dry with an Absorber, if your car was very dirty/gritty then was the Absorber without fabric soffener befroe reuse or put it in a light garmet bag and hang in your dish washer.
If you wash your car propelry then the car should be clean and ready to dry in short order.
Also having 2 Absorbers is more productive as if you have a new one and an old one, use the old one for door jams and under edges of hood and trunk.
This can overtime remove wax but most people who are doing a big time wash/detail on the car ar going to rewax after orin the near future.
I cleaned cars at home once afterleaving the dealership, and I had a local neighbor boy come over and as I got the car dry he would bring up the rear with the good old Mothers California Gold wax.
I could wash and clean and get wax on a car in about 2 1/2 to 3 hours and this was with jambing out a car and cleaning wheels taking another 1/2 hr or so. And the sweeping and glass cleaning.
Doubt I could do it anymore but oh well this was my process.

[John Monnin]

I use a "California Water blade: Its a silicon squeege that works pretty good. I few years ago a lot of car forums were raving about it so I got one.
http://www.amazon.com/Original-California-Water-Blade-20015/dp/B0007N56SG

But I am also not trying to get a show quality finish.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/08/61YVFC4TMRL_SS500_-1.gif

[68sixspeed]

The leaf blower does work good for the pre-dry wipe. The nice thing is it blows the water out of the gaps, door jams, etc. Corvettes hold a lot of water in the mirrors, that's what got me started on it after reading about it on a vette forum. Then Absorber or towel to finish.

I didn't like the Mr-Clean-- I think it would be ok on city water, but with well-water there doesn't seem to be enough pressure - it takes forever to pre-rinse and rinse. Then after sitting unused for a while, I thought I'd try it again and the soap dispense was clogged, so I threw it out with only 4 uses.

[eville]

I concur with the leaf blower I just started using it. It's great for moldings and other places that trap water. I love it for the wheels trying to get all the water out by the lug nuts!

[68sixspeed]

and as an added benifit, your neighbors will look at you very puzzled and think you are nuts! (but I am anyway)

[jonnyc]

Well afterhaving worked at a Gm dealer as a clean up person, trust me cleaning a car after trade in is a bitch.
With out the professional washing soap I have figured out a neat mix and it does work.
Use a 5 gallon bucket,put in 3 gallons of hot tap water and a healthy squirt or Dawn dish soap (it cuts the grease and crud very well) but before you start add a 1/2 gallon of blue washer solvent, it helps with the drying process.
Wash in the cool shade, and rince well and as soon as you get it washed, dry with an Absorber, if your car was very dirty/gritty then was the Absorber without fabric soffener befroe reuse or put it in a light garmet bag and hang in your dish washer.
If you wash your car propelry then the car should be clean and ready to dry in short order.
Also having 2 Absorbers is more productive as if you have a new one and an old one, use the old one for door jams and under edges of hood and trunk.
This can overtime remove wax but most people who are doing a big time wash/detail on the car ar going to rewax after orin the near future.
I cleaned cars at home once afterleaving the dealership, and I had a local neighbor boy come over and as I got the car dry he would bring up the rear with the good old Mothers California Gold wax.
I could wash and clean and get wax on a car in about 2 1/2 to 3 hours and this was with jambing out a car and cleaning wheels taking another 1/2 hr or so. And the sweeping and glass cleaning.
Doubt I could do it anymore but oh well this was my process.

dawn dish soap will strip the wax of your car in one wash.i do it twice a year.wash with dawn to remove the wax,claybar,then start over with swirl remover,polish,etc..

[hdesign]

Tons of info on this forum. Many of these guys do very high end detailing/washing for exotics. I spent a day printing out a 3 ring binder full of tips and recommended products. I've tried a lot of the stuff they suggest with excellent results.

I've personally never used a leaf blower because I was affraid it would kick up dust and dirt around the car or in the air. I typically use a rubber water blade and absorbers.

http://autopia.org/

[John S]

DON'T USE A GAS POWERED LEAF BLOWER!! I've hear stories of guys using one and having all sorts of oil from the motor getting mixed in.
I use a variation of the leaf blower, my 16 gal Rigid shop vac has a removable blower. I've been using that to pre dry my cars for about 5 years. I do not care for the water blades either, I have one, just don't care for it.
Another great detailing tool that any auto buff (pardon the pun) should have is a dual action buffer and an assortment of foam pads, especially if you want to remove or avoid swirl scratches.

[69Pony]

I use the MR Clean system and like it well enough. I also use micro-fiber drying towels. For waxing I use either the Turtle Wax ICE or Mcguiers Tech wax.

A new thing I just tried is the Turtle Wax Liquid Claybar. I had some dull spots, water spots and light swirls and even some left over wax. It took it all out and did it in a fraction of what it takes to use the regular claybar. Followed it up with the ICE product and the paint is the best it's ever looked. Downside to the liquid claybar is it clouds up the chrome and areas you can't wipe down easily - door jams, hood edges, etc... But I always shine up the chrome and wipe down those other areas so it turns out fine.

[staged67gspwr]

How about that little blaster blower or whatever they call it i seen it on TV for cars and bikes?


Thanks

[MonzaRacer]

The ojnly way Dawn will pull all the wax off is if you have it too srong, I have done it for years and I dont use the ultra Dawn either.
A good lather thats slick and soapy but not super soapy. AND if your suing true Carnuba auto wax it takes quite a bit more to strip it off.
also if your only doing the was, claybar and wax twice a year your paint will be lacking for wax anyway because any TRUE wax (ie carnuba ) only lasts about 1 1/2 to 2 months max, side last a little longer but the top, hood and trunk get a lot of water abbrasion, sun and heat.
And Any true wax(ie Carnuba, not something synthetic or silicone poisoned) will only last so long regardless of how you store it.
A friend of mine works for a paint company and they just finished a 10 yr study on wax and waxing and the big thing is that good old Carnuba wax is still the best for cleaning/protecting. Regardless of the other things, anything that seals the pores of the paint completely will cause it long term harm.
Paint will offgas, a decay for decades,,,this is why paint fades and dies,,,even the new paints.

[NOT A TA]

If you HAVE to use water to clean the car. (If its a fair weather car you shouldn't need to use water) A compressor airhose with a rubber tipped blowgun nozzle on it from a setup that filters the air and collects moisture does a good job. Start up top and work down. you can blow the water out of the channels under the window mouldings,emblems,and grill/headlight areas.

[Ricoch3T]

Tons of info on this forum. Many of these guys do very high end detailing/washing for exotics. I spent a day printing out a 3 ring binder full of tips and recommended products. I've tried a lot of the stuff they suggest with excellent results.

I've personally never used a leaf blower because I was affraid it would kick up dust and dirt around the car or in the air. I typically use a rubber water blade and absorbers.

http://autopia.org/

was going to suggest this site myself. Its where i've gathered a ton of info.

I dry with the absorber myself, and I've never noticed it leaving any scratches, just make sure its clean. Like someone else already said most of the scratching gets done during wash

[83hurstguy]

I use a big blue drying towel from properautocare.com.

Its basically a microfiber towel that works like the absorber, and won't scratch the car. Had mine for 4 years now, and use it all the time. Love the thing.

[indyjps]

California Water Blade followed with an absorber, I dry from the top down and wash the absorber between each detailing. 2 would work better.

[whytry]

I use my air compressor and air nozzle, but my leaf blower is gas, so I guess I won't be using that...

I have been on autotopia several times too, great site and I winded up getting some of the car car products that seem to be recommened on that site and they work great so far on our black Escalade...

Will be trying them out on the Camaro soon enough....

[Roger Poirier]

"Yep, I use a 200mph leaf blower to blow the car dry"

I can just picture you out there. Your fellow neighbors must think you are some kind of nut case... :rotfl:

"Not that there is anything wrong with that..."

It reminds me of the eposide where George eats his candy bar with a fork and knife. A few days later the whole town is doing it. My stomach hurts I'm laughing so hard...

R.P.

[LeadSSled]

California Water Blade followed with an absorber, I dry from the top down and wash the absorber between each detailing. 2 would work better.

+1
Waterblade followed by either a Microfiber cloth or 100% cotton terry towel.

And one comment about the suggestion to use Dawn dishwashing detergent - unless you are stripping off your wax/polish to put on a fresh coat, dishwashing detergent is way too harsh to wash a car. Yes, it does remove all of the grime and crud, but it will remove your polish as well. Zaino polishes specifically recommend washing with Dawn to strip any wax before applying their polish for the first time. See item #3 on this link from their webpage: Click Me! (http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Z&Category_Code=APPLICATION)

"I would definitely recommend you remove the wax buildup on your paint. Just use Liquid Dawn (hand dishwashing liquid) as a car wash. It has a high alkaline content which cuts right thru carnauba wax, paraffin, silicone oils, etc. This will get your paint finish squeeky clean and wax free."

[68fusion]

As for water spots, we use a company's treatment that de-ionizes the water. Swear you could wash a black car in the sun and not dry it. The company is Dracor ( in NC ) tank is about the size of a midsize welding tank...and lasts about 3 to 4 months. They have smaller units down to about a 1ft1/2 tall. Just run your water into it.

[staged67gspwr]

I can just picture you out there. Your fellow neighbors must think you are some kind of nut case... :rotfl:

"Not that there is anything wrong with that..."

It reminds me of the eposide where George eats his candy bar with a fork and knife. A few days later the whole town is doing it. My stomach hurts I'm laughing so hard...

R.P.


Roger,since you have a black car what do you wash and dry it with?

Thanks

[Roger Poirier]

Roger,since you have a black car what do you wash and dry it with? Thanks

Short simple version....

It starts as a bad dream but it's reality. I have been stuck in two rain storms this summer.

Wash with any name brand car soap. Follow instructions. Everyone uses way too much soap!

If any wash / drying rag or towel hits the ground I replace it with a new clean one.

Make sure the car is being cleaned in a shaded area.

Have a separate bucket for wash, make sure you use hot water. I always replace my wash bucket at least twice within a wash. Rinse with city water hose. I also wash and rinse a section of the car at a time.

I dry the car with multiple fabric soften 100% cotton towels. Then I take micro fiber towels for the last wipe down.

Load and behold because my car is black I see tons of scratches on it just from washing and drying. Next step is to hand glaze (polish) the entire car with micro fiber cloth. If I still notice a couple of haze spots (always do) I then pull out the wax and hit the area as needed.

The list goes on and on. For me it's almost a day worth of work. I'm crazy in a different type of way....

R.P.

[brooksstls]

Well I've been an auto painter for about 8 years and I detailed cars before that so here is my 2 cents. Unless your car is very, very dirty then just wash it with warm water....no soap. It won't strip off the wax and it's gentle. Obviously that only works if you park in a garage and don't go mud boggin. Use a car wash mit......no sponges to wash it. And replace your wash mits and towels frequently. Hell, they only cost a few bucks. Your best bet for drying is a microfiber towel or an absorber. If you ever drop your drying towel or absorber...throw it away! And don't set it on your toolbox or table, or anything. Keep it in a clean container. I use old baby wipe containers for mine. And do NOT use a squeege to dry your car. If you get dirt ot a burr on the edge of it you will put scratches all over the place. Your best bet is to wash the car with as little as soap as possible, dry it with a newer absorber and then throw a quick carnuba wax on it after you wash it. It only takes 20 minutes to wax a car real quick. I'm not talking a buff job....Just wax on, and wax off real quick. It will hide small scratches, and remove the water spots. I used to wax mine every Tuesday. Good luck.