a/m main wire harness 18ckt best one?

[zman1969]

Hello Im looking for some advise, i am building a 69 Firebird and am adding P/W, F/pump, ECM ect doing a LSX conversion so I wanted to update the main wire harness, ,was wondering from y'all with exprience which brand-painless ect is better/easier to use ? and maybe why? one guy I know recomended NOT to use Painless but I think they have good quality stuff and i would probably prefer thiers as I am a Power tour guy, theyre local to me and they are a big sponser of the tour, BUT I want this done right and easier if thats possible.I just wanted other opinions of the different brands if you have any preferances. and also do the harness include the wiring to wire the engine compartments? THX :hmm:

[ProdigyCustoms]

The Classic Update from American Autowire fits your original fuse box provisions and has additional circuits built in. We sell and install these all the time. Best of the best, and much less painfull then not So Painless

[zman1969]

thanks for your input Frank - can you be more specific? have you used painless before? why do YOU recomend American Autowire? other than you area dealer for them. THX

[ProdigyCustoms]

Yeah, I used Painless in the past. The biggest reason is the Classic Update is MADE for your car. The fuse box fits where it is supposed to. The required original circuits are all there. And the additional circuits you require are there.

There really is no substitute.

As for being a dealer for AA, this is by choice. I made that choice almost 20 years and 100s of projects ago. I have used them in award winning national level concourse restos, Race cars, and High end Pro Touring cars. I could be a Painless dealer in a few minutes time, but have no reason. Actually I have access to painless if you REALLY have to have it. But I really only like to sell products I will use. When we find a good product, we become distributors.

[6'9"Witha69]

Yeah, there is actually more pain than less in the other kit. From what I hear, AAW is the way to go, and yes, I have used Painfull wiring in a couple vehicles.

[zman1969]

well i went to their website and the make one for a 67-8 firebird not a 69 , they do make a 69 camaro harness - sounds like i will have to customize to work with my 69 bird - any suggestions there? in 69 camaro-firebird dashes are different as the bird has a printed ckt board and camaro dosent to name the bigest differences, also the firebird has 4 headlights not 2 like the camaro

[TitoJones]

Do you want the best and easiest 18 circuit harness on the planet? It does not come from Painless or AAW (although AAW is TOP NOTCH in my book) but comes from a small company called I Squared engineering.

This is the coolest/easiest way to wire a car period. Typically the AAW/Painless kits will require 40+ hours to install (that does not include getting really technical with routing and aesthetics) and most people pay someone to do this job.

With the I Squared harness and controller you can have your car up and running in under 15 hours total. You only need to run 2 wires to each system in the car- 1 power and 1 ground. This will work out to 60% LESS wiring than an AAW kit, and 80% reduction in install time (you basically save weight and time with this system.)

Here are some killer features of this power control system:

* 18 fully programmable outputs that can each supply from 1 to 30 amps of power

Each output is designed to handle a wide range of power requirements from as little as 1 amp to as much as 30 continuous amps with total reliability. In the unlikely event of a system failure 4 of the 18 outputs automatically re-route around the failed components to keep you running, without interruption.

* 1-Push ™ internal diagnostics

A single push of one of the diagnostic buttons, on the main (dash) controller, allows for everything from running an instantaneous test of your entire vehicle down to the continuous application of a diagnostic signal to any individual circuit. This allows the installer to locate bad connections anywhere in the vehicle. When your done, 1-Push , and your back to the next step in your project. Even if there is a dead-short in your wiring, the system will continue to safely apply the diagnostic signal until you have corrected the problem. There is no other system in the world that can perform this kind of integrated testing…! With 1-Push you can… 1-Push a continuous full system test, 1-Push a continuous sequential system test or 1-Push a continuous individual circuit diagnostic

* Smart-Fuse ™

This revolutionary feature, available on selected models, continuously monitors each individual output for dangerous overload conditions. Each circuits power-up cycle is divided into 3 distinct parts by Smart-Fuse: (1) allow for large start-up loads, (2) allow only normal functional load and (3) stop any and all dangerous overloads during normal operation. Shorts and large overloads are shut down thousands of times faster than is possible with any fuse. Resetting a shutdown is as simple as turning the item off then on. Smart-Fuse also protects from dangerous over-temperature conditions. At temperatures over 330 degrees F , each output will individually shut-down the power.

* Integrated Smart-Flash™ self canceling or traditional turn signals

Our Smart-Flash™ system allows for (1) externally self-canceling (2) externally non canceling and (3) internally self-canceling turn signals. If the installer elects the self-cancel option, our microcontroller will initiate the turn signals based on the selection of left or right turn and the (on/off) application of the brake pedal. Initial application of the turn signal will initiate a 20 second “ON/OFF” cycle for the blinkers. If no brake has been applied during that time the flash will automatically stop. If at any time during that 20-second cycle the brake is applied, the time will be extended for 20 additional seconds. At a stoplight the blinkers will continue to flash as long as the brakes are applied. Release the brake pedal; the signal will turn off automatically after 20 seconds. Re-apply the brake and the blinker will again indicate a 20 second flash cycle. On a manual turn switch, the switch must be turned off to fully cancel the turn sequence. External self-canceling turn signals flash as expected. Smart-Flash also includes 4-WAY flashers controlled by a single input to the Master Controller. A Piezo speaker is used in place of the normal “click” flasher and can be heard under most conditions, even with side-pipes

* Integrated automatic starter-lockout /timeout

One output from the 1+1 - Power Systems Manager is reserved for 1 of 2 purposes. It can either be assigned to automatically turn off your headlights 30 seconds after you turn off the vehicle – or – it can be used as a starter lock-out that will self-arm 30 seconds after the vehicle is turned off. To re-arming the starter, or enable the headlights, the ignition key must be turned on, or a special input to the Master Controller must be cycled on/off/on.


* When the vehicle is shut down the entire electrical system becomes electrically dead.

Unlike any other electrical system in the world, when you park your vehicle and walk away, every one of the 18 outputs becomes electrically dead. This means that, except for the primary battery feeds there is absolutely no power available in your vehicle. So now, if you worry about your vehicle when you’re away, you can stop. If you need to power some accessory after the vehicle is shutoff, 1+1 will allow you to do that on a circuit-by-circuit basis.


* Each circuit visually indicates opens, shorts and normal operation.

With 1+1 there is no guesswork when it comes to knowing the condition of any circuit. A bright blue LED indicates if your system has an electrical short, if the circuit has become disconnected or open and indication of when things are operating normally. No more guess work when it comes time to get your ride back on the road.

* Each circuit can be fully tested with no load applied

Our circuits indicate functionality even if no load is applied to the output. This also helps you know when 1+1 is doing its job exclusive of the wiring in your vehicle.

* All power is managed through super reliable automotive grade MOSFETS

There is no more reliable way to switch large amounts of DC power in any vehicle that with power MOSFET devices. These devices have 1000s of times the life of even the best relays. Relays begin to degrade on the very first use..! A power MOSFET device continues to deliver the same predictable power, with no increase in resistance, over its entire life. Additionally, MOSFETS do not contribute any switching transients to your electrical system. An un-suppressed relay coil can easily create transients in your system over 100 volts..!

* Programming services provide custom functions/features with no re-wiring

Want your 1+1 system to do something special in your vehicle..? We supply custom programming services for all out 1+1 products. Because our systems are based on Micro-Controllers we can program any kind of function that you might like, or need, in your replica, tuner, hot-rod, limousine or other special purpose vehicle. Remember, if it can be controlled with electrical power, we can customize any of our products to meet your special needs.

* All primary power feeds are connected with Hard-Gold plated or Solid Brass connectors and fuses

Hard-Gold and Solid brass are two of the best electrical conductors in the world. For the big power connections, Hard-Gold or Solid Brass are all we use.

* User selectable level of redundancy for critical (racing etc.) applications

Do you have an application that requires bullet-proof reliability..? With 1+1 you can dial in any level of redundancy that you require. With one simple change you can have 2, 3 or any number of backup circuits assigned to any critical device in your race car or specialty vehicle.


When you are ready to get serious about wiring, call us up for your 1+1 I Squared system. We are currently stocking these, and the retail is $850.00

Tyler

[zman1969]

:worship:

WOW hope you copied and pasted that one
that intimidated me worse than before :rolleyes:

[TitoJones]

It was a copy/paste direct from I Squared Engineering's website. (bolding mine)

I didn't mean to intimidate you. I assure you that this is one of the simplest ways to wire a car despite its complex/technical basis. This is like having your car wired with F1 technology, but having it hook up like a home stereo- just 2 wires to each powered component.

Call me if you'd like to go over how easy it can be to wire a multi circuit car- in the mean time here is some great reading:

http://www.isqe.com/wiring.asp

Tyler

[zman1969]

Tyler that does look to be a nice system- a little over the top for my restomod though ,(I do already have your AFX spindles I am waiting to put on my car) any other opinions on which system would be easiest to adapt to the 69 firebird??

[ProdigyCustoms]

The amount of custom work you will have to do to a Classic Update will be less then a scratch Painless harness.

JMO

[zman1969]

Looks like AAW will be the one - will have to do some modification but on a Hotrod what dont you have to modify? Guys I really appreciate your opinions on the matter :hammer:

[ProdigyCustoms]

Mike and I talked about your wiring yesterday. There are very few modifications you will have to do, dash, piggy back headlamps.