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Provertstang
08-10-2007, 08:01 AM
The chassis and suspension are finished
New front sheetmetal is mocked up
Firewall and dash are smoothed
Cowl is welded shut
Next is full quarters, trunk floor with fuel cell, tubs, battery tray.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Brent

65chevelle''ss''
08-10-2007, 09:21 AM
Holy S*^t look at the lip on those rear wheels!!! Keep the pics coming Brent. Nice work!

streetrod77
08-10-2007, 09:27 AM
That looks low even on jackstands. What type of suspension are you running?

Provertstang
08-10-2007, 09:37 AM
Thanks alot.

The rear is a narrowed 9", torque arm, panhard bar, anti roll assy., CM lower control arms and QA1 ext. adj. shocks, Wilwood brakes.

The front is stainless tube upper and lower a-arms, QA1 external adj. shocks, Heidts 2" drop spindles, Wilwood brakes, Wilwood rack.

Thanks,
Brent

BADVELLE
08-10-2007, 11:07 AM
Very nice, even looks mean at this stage of the build!!

Restomod
08-10-2007, 03:47 PM
Nice!!

ProTouring442
08-11-2007, 03:47 AM
Sweet!

Good Grief I have to get back on my car!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Z06killinSBF
08-11-2007, 05:02 AM
Looks great. More pics. Deff want to see your dash.

kadettcqp
08-11-2007, 08:41 AM
Nice stang!

What brand are those wheels? Are they junk yard dog? And what measurements and backspace?

Provertstang
08-13-2007, 06:35 AM
Thank you

I will take more pics this week.

Hope to have the quarters and trunk done this week.
Fuel cell should be here on Wed.

Brent

LMDGUY
08-13-2007, 06:42 AM
Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Provertstang
08-13-2007, 06:49 AM
The wheels are Coddington
Smoothie II smooth lip
18X10 4.00 backspace
17X9 5.125 backspace

Thanks,
Brent

kadettcqp
08-13-2007, 09:03 AM
Thanks alot for the info. They look incredible on that car. The proportions are spot on!

MuscleRodz
08-13-2007, 09:55 AM
Haven't seen a PT vert Mustang yet. I like what you got going on there!

Mike

Provertstang
08-13-2007, 10:51 AM
I have not seen a '65 or '66 Vert done this way either.
The farther we get into things I see why. The top of the tubs are flat from the factory. Not nicely done either. They look like they were beaten with a sledge hammer. The convertible top lays flat on the top of the tubs so it has taken a lot of time to get a descent ride height without air bags. The unibody/torque box/center vert brace, stuff is NOT PT friendly. I like the '67 and '68 body style a lot but the whole "Eleanor" thing, in my opinion, has gotten out of hand. I wanted something different. So far I am very pleased with the progress and the stance. I can not wait to sit it on the floor and take a look.

Thanks for the comments,
Brent

spddmnjay
08-13-2007, 11:39 AM
I really like the size of wheels you chose. They look really meaty! Awesome built you have going. I'll be watchin' the progress.

What vendor did you purchase the new sheet metal from? I will also need sheet metal for my 66 and have heard that not all companies that supply sheet metal are the same as the original (fit, etc.).

Provertstang
08-13-2007, 12:03 PM
I purchased everything "original Ford tooling" I could get. I have been happy with everything other than the quarter panels and the wheel houses. They required a lot of work around the wheel lip with a shrinking tool to get the houses to match the quarters.
I ordered everything from Tony Branda (www.cobranda.com (http://www.cobranda.com)) and CJ Pony Parts.

Have fun,
Brent

HsvToolFool
08-13-2007, 05:03 PM
The farther we get into things I see why. The top of the tubs are flat from the factory. Not nicely done either. They look like they were beaten with a sledge hammer. The convertible top lays flat on the top of the tubs so it has taken a lot of time to get a descent ride height without air bags.

I've heard that they were beaten flat with a 2x4 and
a big hammer on the assembly line. This is the one
catch I was worried about with using mini-tubs on
a first-gen covertible. I would love to see any other
photos you have of your solution to this problem.

Did you flatten the mini-tubs? If so, do you expect
the larger the wheel-size and/or lower ride-height
to rub much?

Did you experiment with the top before the tubs
were flattened? If so, how much did the top
protrude above its normal down-position?

Given2Fly
08-14-2007, 07:55 PM
Look'n good so far. I am also interested in the interior and, in particular, how you will be approaching the seats and restraints up front.

Provertstang
08-15-2007, 09:09 AM
Will go with H4
Don't really like LEDs in classis cars

Did not want the AOD cable or computer
Don't plan long road trips, had a 3 speed in my last 5 mustangs and it worked fine for my driving. May go to a 5 speed manual later.

Thanks,
Brent

Provertstang
08-15-2007, 09:13 AM
Pics of the dash smoothed without a pad
Cowl treated and louvers welded shut
Quarters removed,treated with POR15 and replaced

The interior will be white "pony" with billet gauge pod,modern gauges, center console, 5 pt harness, dash painted car color.
Leaning toward Dupont Vitamin C, white stripes, 3 stage.
The car will have a forward tilt hood with a windshield length cowl scoop.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Thanks a lot,
Brent

MZ 500
08-15-2007, 10:21 AM
Are you removing the inner cowl vents all together or are you going to draw air from some ware different? I am asking because I am thinking of capping mine off my lower cowl has lots of rust damage.

71 Torino HT

Provertstang
08-15-2007, 11:38 AM
MZ,

I am removing them totally. They stink!!
I am going to run a Vintage Air heater unit to get rid of the factory blower fan sticking through the firewall. I want to tuck it up as high as I can and also run the heater lines through the fenders and not through the firewall. The vents were pretty much useless anyway and the new cowl scoop would cover the louvers too.

Thanks,
Brent

Provertstang
08-22-2007, 06:19 AM
The new factory wheel houses are widened and tacked in place. The factory wheel house lip remains and everything fits tight.
The rear valance will be welded in and smoothed to the quarter panels so everything behind it is treated with POR 15.
Next is the fuel cell and finish the trunk floor.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Thanks,
Brent

Z06killinSBF
08-22-2007, 07:53 AM
Nice. What all is needed to smooth out the dash? I know I will have to remove the braces above the gauges and glove bax, but what else? How hard was it?

Provertstang
08-22-2007, 08:33 AM
Yes, you need to remove the support braces for the dash pad. About 15 spot welds. Then you need to fill 1- 1/4" hole on each end of the dash, 1-1/4 hole on each side of the radio, and two 1/2" oval holes above the radio. The top of the dash will require some filler to straighten it out. I am going to paint the dash, inside of the doors, and the front of the interior quarter trim body color. I am also going to sand all of the fake vinyl texture off of the inner door skins and quarter trim panels.

Brent

Z06killinSBF
08-22-2007, 01:42 PM
Cool. If I remember correct, the grain is the actual metal. Just FYI

Provertstang
08-22-2007, 01:46 PM
you are correct. it is all metal but looks like vinyl.
It will be gone.

Brent

jiminy14
08-22-2007, 02:06 PM
car looks great!!! did you spray the por15 or brush it...... looks like you msut've sprayed it. i wish i had....its hard to make look that good brushing it.

james

Provertstang
08-23-2007, 03:41 AM
thanks, but I did brush it on. I put 2 coats on with about an hour in between. The second coat really changes the texture of the material. It is extra thick on spot welds and seams.

Brent

Provertstang
09-06-2007, 12:00 PM
The billet battery mount is in and the new aluminum fuel cell is mounted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Mocked up the convertible top to see how much the new wheel tubs would need to me modified for the top to lower all the way.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Cut the necessary ammount out of the wheel houses and fabricated a new top for them that matched the angle of the top when lowered
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
The new piece looks much better than the factory "sledge hammer" job that was on the car originally.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Now to the new floorpans

Thanks,
Brent

HsvToolFool
09-06-2007, 03:59 PM
Looks awesome Brent! Thanks for the photos.

How badly did the top stick up without the cutouts?
Was it even close to laying down?

Provertstang
09-06-2007, 08:02 PM
hsv, The top stuck up almost 10" in the down position.

The tubs are cut 1.875" deep and the cut out is at 22 degree angle.

We are lucky to keep the ride height we waned.

Brent

HsvToolFool
09-07-2007, 04:04 PM
hsv, The top stuck up almost 10" in the down position.

Yep, that's too much. No alternative but to sacrifice a
little tub-clearance or tire-height.

Your wheel/tire combo is exactly the look I want.
You have 18/10 rear wheels, and I'm assuming a
30-series x 275-295 tire, so you should have a total
tire-height of about 25-inches give or take.

Just two last questions and I'll stop bugging you...

#1) What is the ground clearance at the back?
I would want at least 6-inches back there.

#2) How much clearance for rubber at the top of the tub?
I'm hoping for at least 2 1/2 to 3 inches to avoid
rubbing. I bet it's close.

Thanks again for trail-blazing and sharing. This tub/top
issue was my biggest fear on rodding my '66 'vert.
When I finally save enough money, I promise I won't
be copying you. Too much. ;)

Provertstang
09-08-2007, 06:33 AM
Ask all you want.
This was going to be a project from the start. When you do not see a car done this way there is a reason :hmm: But where there is a will there is a way and I wanted this car, this way.

The tires are 26.5" tall in the rear and 25.5" tall in the front.
The width sidewall to sidewall on the rear is 11.75"

The rocker to ground in the rear in front of the tire is 6"
The frame at it's lowest point in the front (almost even with the bellhousing) is 4". With the body lines of the car and especially the recessed area through the doors and into the front of the quarters being wider in the back than the front I thought the car needed some rake. With the car level it looked like it sagged in the rear. The car has 1.5" of rake between the front of the rear tire and the back of the front tire.

At ride height, with 300lbs in the back seat, the rear tire has 2.25" to the top of the tub. The lower shock mounts have 4 adjustment holes 1/2" apart (the lower mount is in the lowest position) and the shocks are externally adjustable with the click of a knob.

Thanks,
Brent

LMDGUY
09-08-2007, 12:56 PM
looking good!

HsvToolFool
09-09-2007, 07:23 PM
The tires are 26.5" tall in the rear and 25.5" tall in the front.
The width sidewall to sidewall on the rear is 11.75"

I'm guessing that's a 295/35/18? Cool beans.


The rocker to ground in the rear in front of the tire is 6"

Excellent! I had hoped that would be the case.


At ride height, with 300lbs in the back seat, the rear tire has 2.25" to the top of the tub.

Which is about 1/4" more than you need, I 'spose.

I cannot wait to see this baby finished.

Crestronwizard
05-21-2011, 04:15 PM
Did this ever get finished?