Need road course setup advice

[69HuggrrrPT]

I'm doing my first road course on Sat and need some advice on what I can do to set my 69' up.

I'm runnig QA1 coilovers up front with a Hotchkis sway bar, regular QA1 shocks out back with Hotchkis leafs and GW del a lum solid bushings.

17" wheels all around with BFG's, manual steering, Baer brakes and Speed Tech upper and lower control arms.

Questions...
What should I set the shocks to?
What psi in the tires?

Any other tips are also appreciated! :drive1:

[NOT A TA]

Sorry no info for ya on the QA 1's or BFG pressures but unless the brake fluid is new recently change it. Almost every time I go to a track someone looses brakes from old fluid they think is good because they don't put many miles on the car. On the street the brake temps don't get hot enough to vaporize the moisture that gets in the brake fluid.On the track it seems to occur in the second session of the day for new guys.

MOISTURE IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Water/moisture can be found in nearly all brake systems. Moisture enters the brake system in several ways. One of the more common ways is from using old or pre-opened fluid. Keep in mind, that brake fluid draws in moisture from the surrounding air. Tightly sealing brake fluid bottles and not storing them for long periods of time will help keep moisture out. When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering into the master cylinder. Condensation, (small moisture droplets) can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and then cool repeatedly, condensation occurs, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers, lines, master cylinders, etc. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system. Diffusion is another way in that water/moisture may enter the system.

Diffusion occurs when over time moisture enters through rubber brake hoses. The use of hoses made from EPDM materials (Ethlene-Propylene-Diene-Materials) will reduce the amount of diffusion OR use steel braided brake hose with a non-rubber sleeve (usually Teflon) to greatly reduce the diffusion process
john

[69HuggrrrPT]

Thanks for the heads up John.

Anyone else have any thoughts or suggestions?

[fast Ed]

I'm not familiar with settings on the QA1 shocks (I've always had Konis), but I can give you an idea on tire pressure. For a front heavy RWD car such as yours, start with ~ 36 front and 32 rear. Take some shoe polish with you to mark on the outside edges of the tires, in 3 or 4 spots where the tread meets the sidewall. That way you can see how far the tires are rolling over, and add or subtract pressure from there. Most performance tires have some very small arrows or triangles in that area, they are a guide as to how far the tires should be rolling over.


cheers
Ed N.

[David Pozzi]

Set your shocks on 4, go to 5 if you get excessive lean or it feels under dampened. If you have double adjusts, use 8 or 10.

Go easy on the brakes, pay attention to driving the correct "line". You can't go fast until you know where the correct line is and where the apex and braking points are. If you overdrive the car early on, you will cut your day short with a brake failure or other problem like running off course or hitting another car. Give yourself time to learn.

[fast Ed]

That's excellent advice for a first-timer, David.


Dean, I just noticed you're in Welland, ON. What track are you going to, Dunnville, TMP? Enjoy yourself in any case.


cheers
Ed N.

[69HuggrrrPT]

Thanks David, I'll try those settings and see what happens.

Ed, yeah it's at TMP July 7th. There's another on Sept 29th as well that I may sign up for.
Have you ever been there?

[fast Ed]

Yes, I instructed at an event there about 5 years ago, before it got shut down from the bylaw infraction.

It's a good layout for beginners, lots of runoff area, not much really to hit, and it has some very technical sections that make it a great learning track. IMO, if you're serious about learning to drive a car at the track, it's better to do at least one, if not a few, events at a track like TMP or Dunnville, before moving on to a big circuit like Mosport or Watkins Glen. Heck, I'd been to Shannonville probably a dozen times before I ever went to Mosport, and it still scared the crap out of me the first time, and several times after!! :eek:


cheers
Ed N.

[vanzuuk1]

Not a t/a, I just emailed that brake info to a buddy,very good.



If you arrive at the track with the system bled properly,would you have to do it again that weekend? My buddy is a gm mechanic and he was wondering if the guys you see bleeding brakes all weekend are chasing the same bubbles or freshening after a long session.

Maybe its because stock type brake setups heat the fluid more and create problems? My rear drums get the rims pretty hot. Scary.

Also a heads up dont come off the track with your brakes nuclear hot and then sit with your foot on the brake or set the e brake.

[Dan Sherwood]

You've probably already run the event, but I have the same shock setup and I like either full stiff in the front or one setting down. With cal trac bars the car seems to like full stiff in the rear wether it's on the street, drag track or road course. I'm usually on the high side up front in the tires with a bbc, running 38-40 psi in front and 34-36 in the rear, and adjust from there depending on track conditions, traction, tire wear, etc...