Brake fitting question,(pics)

[staged67gspwr]

Ok i bought the steel braided line kit from Precision last year through the board so im in the process of doing the installation of my 6 piston brakes now,so i cut my new rearend lines to length i wanted and flared them,the kit came with three fittings like the ones in my pics,they fit fine with the lines but those arent the correct looking fittings where can i get the correct ones?any help appreciated.

Thanks

[MrQuick]

if the flex line and hard line fit the fitting fine then just make a bracket to weld to the axle housing like this.

[staged67gspwr]

if the flex line and hard line fit the fitting fine then just make a bracket to weld to the axle housing like this.


Yea,the hard line and flex line fit eachother but was wondering rather than welding something on the tubes to hold that fitting in place if there was a regular fitting to replace this one ??

Thanks

[barno68]

I may misunderstand your question, but... changing fittings is not going to alleviate the issue of needing to secure the hard line to the axle. The adapter fitting for hardline to flex is meant to be secured via a spring clip to a frame bracket (front brakes) or axle bracket (rear). It just takes a piece of flat stock with an appropriate sized hole drilled into it, it could even be connected by clamp if you do not want to weld it. Here is a photo of mine, not as pretty as Mr. Quicks, but you work with what ya got :-)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/DSCN1689-1.jpg

Brent

[Hammered]

I was going to weld my bracket to the U-bolt so I don't muss up my detailed and painted housing.

[staged67gspwr]

The fitting and lines are not going anywhere as they are held on by the stock clamps thats on the rear end tubes,i guess i`ll just leave it alone it aint goin anywhere,here`s another question though,a friend of mine connected his hard line directly into the flex line without any adaptors and i`m surprised its not leaking??

Thanks

[barno68]

Well, 3an is 3/16", I can't remember if both run 37degree flares; in any case I am surprised that he was able to get two inverted fittings not to leak also as there is not real seating surface other then the threads.

Brent

[CarlC]

I would not recommend welding a bracket to the U-bolt. The weld is going to turn into a big stress riser and possibly cause premature failure, not to mention the effects of heat on the bolt.

[silver69camaro]

I would not recommend welding a bracket to the U-bolt. The weld is going to turn into a big stress riser and possibly cause premature failure, not to mention the effects of heat on the bolt.

I agree 100%. And believe me, that hard line will vibrate as the car is driven with that flex line dangling off of it like that. That must be secured, period.

Also, 45* degree flares will often seal up to a 37* fitting. I didn't say it was correct, but it does work and has been done many times. However, it is much more effective when the sleeve/nut type of fittings is used.

[Hammered]

Is the typical u-bolt grade 5 or 8? The engineers at work said I should be okay if I preheat to 200C and cool slowly. Further, I'm just tacking it on as it's only holding a tube and hose.

[CarlC]

It's only holding a tube and hose that can kill you if it fails. Same with the U-bolt. Make a bracket, grind a small amount of coating from the housing, weld it on, and touch-up paint. Unless it's a show-only car nobody will know.

There is not a single fastener manufacturer on the planet that endorse welding on their part. It is a huge no-no in the structural bolting industry to do anything to upset the stressed area of a fastener.

[MrQuick]

yeah i wouldn't risk it...you can easily tach it to the spring mount edge and not hurt the finish.

I like to drill 3 3/16" holes in the base of the bracket and plug weld it for a floating effect.

[Hammered]

I like to drill 3 3/16" holes in the base of the bracket and plug weld it for a floating effect.

I like that idea, I guess you guys talked me out of welding on the u-bolt.

[Skip Fix]

I'd just get a bracket with a tab to put underneath the U bolt. Kind of like a muffler hanger that goes under the clamp bolts.

[Hammered]

I like that idea Skip, but I would think I would need to make the under bolt portion quite long to distribute the load. The bracket needs to be about .1" thick (12 ga) for the clips to hold the tube fitting tight.

Is it a bad idea to fix a bleeder screw port with a helicoil? I don't see why not if I stay out of the seat and there is plenty of unused thread at the bottom of the hole to allow this.

[MonzaRacer]

No the helicoil is fine for a bleeder line fitting but not a brake line hole, then you need to have it eithre welded and repaired or drilled and tapped to next size fitting and attach appropriately.
As for putting it under the ubolt that is theway I would do it. Find a piec of pipe to form the lshape over and use a hammer and form themetal to the curve of the axle tube then simply slip it under and retighten the ubolt.
while heating up in the area of the nuts to help remove the nuts heating/welding (unless you removed uit and had a specialty welding shop heliarc and retmeper it) I wouldnt weld on the curve as it alreadhas the stress of the bend in it.
also if the reaend isnt installed ,pull the axles out, drill and tap the hole seal and install it with a bolt or stud and then tack the bolt head or nut to the bracket, if you gotta remove it grind the tack off.
little more work but you could also use a race bolt thats drilled for safety wire and get a safety wire pliers to wind your wire making it look trick.
Good luck in what ever you do.
Lee Abel