2002 Chevy Camaro Z28 will not start.

[Badguy7]

Im new to this forum, so im not sure if this is the correct place to put this thread.

Well i tried to hook up a Bazooka BassTube to my car today, and now my car will not start up. The only things i did were, hook the power (red wire) from the BassTube to the Battery, and the ground and speakers wires as well. Now when i turn the ignition on, my stereo turns on, gauges turn on as well. Everything seems to work as usual, but when i turn the key to full ignition to start it up, it seems to die down. My fuel gauge goes back to Empty, the Miles gauge turns back off, Battery gauge does show power but not halfway. Its markin in the red bars, in the gauge, and i also have my security light flashing. I did remove the stereo (still factory) to see if i could wire anything up to it, but wasnt able to. So i just hooked it back up and it works, cd plays and everything.

Its just the car will not start up, could it just be the battery itself needing to be charged up again? Also when i remove the battery and put it back on, im not getting any sparks when the positive power cable hits the battery.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

I moved this to the emergency room for you. You should receive more responses and in less time. BTW, welcome to the site.

[Gordz32]

Sounds like a dead battery! Jump it from another car and see what happens, if it starts drive it around a little bit to see if it recharges.

[Badguy7]

That's what im thinkin that it may just be the battery. Im confused though, becuz my stereo still turns on, everything seems to work fine from the lights to the window's rolling down. It gives no crank at all, when i try to start it up, or is that how the newer models like mine are now? they still turn on things, but wont start the car.

Someone else on an other site told me, i may have turned the alarm off and it put the car in a safe mode. they also told me to try and jump it. So im going to try that, thanks for leavin some feedback.

[Badguy7]

Well i just tried to jump start the car, and that didnt work either. My older brother talked to some guy, and the guy said with the newer car's, that if i left the battery disconnected for a good amount of time. That i would have to reset the computer, to get it to work.

I think im just going to have to take this in to the dealership and have them work on it.

[jreut703]

i would disconnect the speaker and see whathappens. it might be grounding out. is there a switch power for the speaker and what is that hooked to.the switch power is what turns the speaker on when you turn the car on.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

that if i left the battery disconnected for a good amount of time. That i would have to reset the computer, to get it to work.

I'm not sure if that's entirely true. When the battery dies on a 4th gen camaro (provided that is the only issue) after restarting the car, you must perform the "idle relearn sequence". Which is basically just allowing the car to idle for 5 minutes. It really is not that important, though. You can find the exact procedure on LS1tech.com, or I can get it from a helms if necessary.

If the battery is dead (and that is your only problem), you should hear the starter making a noticeable clicking sound when trying to start the car. This is what my '01 SS used to do.

I don't know much about automotive electronics, but if I were a betting man, I'd bet you have some sort of a ground issue (either something not grounded, or grounding out, etc.).

[MrQuick]

Did you screw anything down? If so...How long are the screws that you used? Iv'e seen a few guys screw right into the tank and wire harnesses. Just a thought

[Badguy7]

Did you screw anything down? If so...How long are the screws that you used? Iv'e seen a few guys screw right into the tank and wire harnesses. Just a thought

no, i didnt screw any new holes or anything. i just used a screw that was already there, just unscrewed it and put the groundwire there and screwed it back down.

[Badguy7]

I'm not sure if that's entirely true. When the battery dies on a 4th gen camaro (provided that is the only issue) after restarting the car, you must perform the "idle relearn sequence". Which is basically just allowing the car to idle for 5 minutes. It really is not that important, though. You can find the exact procedure on LS1tech.com, or I can get it from a helms if necessary.

If the battery is dead (and that is your only problem), you should hear the starter making a noticeable clicking sound when trying to start the car. This is what my '01 SS used to do.

I don't know much about automotive electronics, but if I were a betting man, I'd bet you have some sort of a ground issue (either something not grounded, or grounding out, etc.).

It doesnt make any noise or an attempt to even start. I tried somethin the local dealership said, and that was to turn the key on, and leave it for 30 to 45 minutes. that should let the computer reset itself, or get familiar with the key or somethin like that, but that didnt work either.

I removed the speaker i added, and every wire i used to hook it up. I didnt cut no factory wires or anything but i am going to check once again and make sure i didnt leave anything. Im starting to think that it may be the TheftLock system, that may have just shut the car off thinkin someone was trying to steal it.

[jreut703]

maybetry hitting the starter a couple of times. It might just be bad. Does the fuel pump go on when you turn the key. If not then it might be security and if it does go on or make a buzz noise then the starter might be bad.. Also have the battery checked by your local parts store because if might have a charge but once you put a load on it the battery goes dead.

[68nate]

If the security light flashes after you turn the key to the crank position, your theftlock system is disabling your starter. Leaving the key on for 15 minutes will clear a theft deterrent code and allow the vehicle to start. TO DO THIS TURN THE KEY ON WITHOUT TURNING TO THE CRANK POSITION AND LET SIT FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES AND THEN ATTEMPT TO CRANK. I would also check all of your fuses with a test light- you may have accidentally shorted something and blew a fuse that controls the theft deterrent system or the starter relay. Try starting it in neutral also- may be a problem with netral safety switch.

[Badguy7]

I would also check all of your fuses with a test light- you may have accidentally shorted something and blew a fuse that controls the theft deterrent system or the starter relay.

I think this may be the problem. My father talked with some guy and he told us to check the "starter fuse" which we didnt think of at the beginning. So we tested the "starter fuse" and it isnt givin out any power or showing its still working. Other than that, everything else works and other fuses dont seem to be blown.

[6'9"Witha69]

Another thing to consider, as I don't know if you are the original owner or not, but there are dealer installed theft deterrents where you pass a card over an area to enable vehicle starting. This can be turned off or set to Valet mode. Once the battery is disconnected, it resets to ON. If the fuse thing doesn't work, maybe keep this in mind.

[Badguy7]

Another thing to consider, as I don't know if you are the original owner or not, but there are dealer installed theft deterrents where you pass a card over an area to enable vehicle starting. This can be turned off or set to Valet mode. Once the battery is disconnected, it resets to ON. If the fuse thing doesn't work, maybe keep this in mind.

No, im not the original owner of the car. I got it used, and this was the 1st time i messed with the Battery or anything like that. We did put new "starter and ignition fuses" and that didnt work. Re-checked the battery cable's and found the positive to be loose, so we fixed that and still wont start.

So what you just mentioned may be the problem. The owner's manual just mentions about a PASS KEY II feature, where if the wrong key is inserted in the ignition. The car shuts off the starter and fuel system. Im going to check into that.

[1FstChevy]

Hey... don't want to just bum off of Badguy7's post... but I figure while were at it with someone mentioning the starter going bad potentially...

My 80Z hasn't been starting the last month once I have it running around town for a little while when it warms up, soo... If I stop anywhere I have to plan on being there at least 30min or so and then it'll crank right over, I previously had a few battery and alternator problems that I've since solved so I'm betting 90% that its the starter??? Since right when I turn it off when its @ its normal operating temp between 180-200 it won't start right back up, but I do hear a bit of a whizzing or kind of clicking noise that doesn't sound like my electric water pump at all when I try to turn the key over?

So would anyone agree with me that its likely the starter going out? I thought that sounded like a feasible cause since I could see it not starting once it gets hot if its slowly going out... but figured I'd ask before I go buying an expensive starter I don't need. Thanks!

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Did you get it started? Do you have a cheap voltmeter? if so,

1. check the battery voltage and see what it reads with the key off. Should be 12.5 -13.5 volts. probably on the low end after playing with it.

2. Just turn on your stereo and see what it reads. Should drop more than a 1/4 volt. if it does, the battery is weak or bad or there is an short somewhere.

3. Attempted to start the car. Voltage should stay above 11 volts. If it doesn't, you have a short or weak or bad battery. If the voltage doesn't drop when starting the car, youre starter is not getting power for some reason.

4. If you have a low or week battery, try charging it or get a different car and jumper cables to start it. If the battery is really bad, you will not get any noise from the starter. But usually nothing else works either if it is that bad

[Badguy7]

Did you get it started? Do you have a cheap voltmeter? if so,

1. check the battery voltage and see what it reads with the key off. Should be 12.5 -13.5 volts. probably on the low end after playing with it.

2. Just turn on your stereo and see what it reads. Should drop more than a 1/4 volt. if it does, the battery is weak or bad or there is an short somewhere.

3. Attempted to start the car. Voltage should stay above 11 volts. If it doesn't, you have a short or weak or bad battery. If the voltage doesn't drop when starting the car, youre starter is not getting power for some reason.

4. If you have a low or week battery, try charging it or get a different car and jumper cables to start it. If the battery is really bad, you will not get any noise from the starter. But usually nothing else works either if it is that bad

No, havent got the car started. Ive tried jumping it, that didnt work. I dont think its the battery, i think it should have enough power to start the car but it doesnt attempt to start at all. The only noise coming from the engine, are the injector's.

Im startin to think that either there is a short somewhere, or its the TheftLock security system that has shut the car down thinkin someone was trying to steal it. When i disconnected the battery. Im going to go ahead and take it to the dealership on Tuesday, and see what the problem is. We've done everything we can think of, and nothin has worked.

[MonzaRacer]

Double check the battery cause if you hooked it to the positive it may have broken the terminal inside the battery. Take it out and have it tested.
another problem is that if the security light blinks its not seeing your key(if it hasd the little black button in the key)if its on steady your fine there.
take a test light and ground it and have someone hold down the key and see if it will light the starter wire on the solenoid.
if it lights tap the starter a few times also double check to see if it has battery power to the starter.
You can also jump the terminals at the start if it cranks you may have a bad wire or ignition switch.
also if you dont get a light double check your neutral safety switch too.
another thing to check is all fuse links. Loock for a 3/8 or so round bullet about 3/4 to 1 in long near a battery power circuit, you give these a firm grab and firmly but not super hard tug if the wire stretches its blown and you need a new fuse link. the plug of plastic is the end of the fuse link wire and will have a number on it thats the size you will need.
anotherthing is on newer computer cars you need to remember to remove the negative from the battery first before removing the positive. loosing ground doesnt hurt anything but if you had anything powered up and dropped the positive terminal you can burn up electronics very easy.
Ill look up the start diagram tuesday.
Lee

[Chevy]

i had a similar problem with my 1998 Z. Battery had enough juice to power accessories, i COULD NOT jump start it, even after 30 minutes with another car hooked up, and i even put a battery charger to the battery for 5 hours on high amperage, and nothing. The last thing i tried was replacing the battery and it started right up...I would try replacing the battery before taking it to the dealer if i were you. if that's not it you can always take the battery back for refund. As someone else mentioned, it could be loose terminal or something else in battery that wouldn't neccessarily show up on load test, so the best test is to just throw a new battery in there IMHO.

Good luck!

[z65mm6]

I would check for continuity on your battery cables particuarly the positive.
if I remember correctly there are two wires on that terminal. One for the starter and another for the rest of the car.

I saw a lot of new cars come in where the battery terminals were overtightened from the factory and the terminals eventually came out. often times they leak before they come all the way out and it dumps acid down into the cable. When this happens the cable erodes from the inside over time eventually leading to failure. I've also seen cars that come in after the warranty period where the original battery had failed and the cable had not been replaced. the acid sits in the cable and over time the acid inside the cable eats the wire in two. We replaced the cables but I do not think this was a service bulletin or recall.

So what happens here is a car that "turns on" but doesn't start because it doesn't get any juice to the starter. When you unhooked the battery you might have broken the last of the few strands left that were still on one piece.

[Chevy]

I would check for continuity on your battery cables particuarly the positive.
if I remember correctly there are two wires on that terminal. One for the starter and another for the rest of the car.

I saw a lot of new cars come in where the battery terminals were overtightened from the factory and the terminals eventually came out. often times they leak before they come all the way out and it dumps acid down into the cable. When this happens the cable erodes from the inside over time eventually leading to failure. I've also seen cars that come in after the warranty period where the original battery had failed and the cable had not been replaced. the acid sits in the cable and over time the acid inside the cable eats the wire in two. We replaced the cables but I do not think this was a service bulletin or recall.

So what happens here is a car that "turns on" but doesn't start because it doesn't get any juice to the starter. When you unhooked the battery you might have broken the last of the few strands left that were still on one piece.

Agree with Z65--i saw enormous corrosion on my 1998 down into the cables and had to cut them back about an inch each and re-crimp a new eyelet.

[z65mm6]

Just an inch? I've seen corrosion in the cable as far in as a foot from the eyelet.
The gauges, stereo and accesories turning off or acting strange may be normal. Some cars only supply power to what is absolutely necessary to start the engine when the switch is in the start position. Which in this case may only be the ECM, starter fuel pump and ignition.