Is the Holley blue pump any good?

[CamaroJesse]

i have a 396 with ported heads, 11.5:1 compression, and a big solid cam. will the Holley blue pump be enough for my motor?

thanks
jesse

[Racie]

Thats what I run on my Big Block LS6 and it holds up pretty good for street use. Got a nice big Voodoo Cam and rectangle port head about 11:1 comp been going strong for 3 years...

[Goatman]

Yes.



As long as the lines, etc will not be any more restrictive.

[NOT A TA]

I've been running a blue pump in my Firebird with a 400 using a Fram cartridge filter before the pump and 3/8" line. No problems at the strips, road courses, ECTA or on highways. Should be fine on your 396. Be sure to run the lines on the outside of the framerail by the flywheel area and don't mount lines or regulator on the firewall or it won't pass tech at tracks.

[Neil B]

I use the Holley Blue to feed a 427 making 425 rwhp. It made it through last year's power tour and is still going strong. It's rather noisy if that is any concern.

[Steve68]

Noisey! but you can get some good looks at stop lights!

[MonzaRacer]

Just remember to rubber mount the fuel pump , use a good regulator to limit pressure to your carb (return type help with fuel vaporizing in the line) als odont forget to use a good heavy relay to feed it and dont skimp on wire size rune 10 guage to it.
I like using the oval heavy duty gm relays I source them from cars in the junk yard as you can usually find cars with the engien gone and but harness for cheap if not for free.
I used to buy a 3 lb coffe can full with 12 in harness wires left on them and you can get good fuse holders too. and junction block to bolt things to.
The oval relays cna handle 60 amp surges where the 30 amp square Bosch type relays will melt at about 40 amps.
good luck

[Goatman]

You don't need a return or relay with the small pumps. Ran one for years with neither on the street and never had a problem...

[ProdigyCustoms]

Holley has a series of black billet pumps now that are whisper quite. Check out the 12-125. Looks sexy too.

[Azzkikrcuda]

I have been running a holley blue pump with a deadhead regulator on the street for about 7 years with no problems. It is noisey though.

[J2speedandcustom]

Holley has a series of black billet pumps now that are whisper quite. Check out the 12-125. Looks sexy too.

That's the one were running on our 496 big block nice, quiet works perfectly, and looks a heck of alot better than the older style pumps.

[fastercar68]

Ditto on the Holley Blue being noisy. Although I've never had a problem feeding my zz383 crate, my fuel pressure drops from an initial 6-7psi to around 3psi after 20min. Could be due to the entry level regulator included with the pump, however. Does everyone else running this pump have stable fuel pressure no matter how long it runs?

[MonzaRacer]

You don't need a return or relay with the small pumps. Ran one for years with neither on the street and never had a problem...

Dont be a "Well I did it this cheap out way,,,," You should NEVER run any high current device without proper power handling and fusing.
I work as a diag tech and I am also the shops resident electrical detective.
Believe me I have seen the inside of a Holley blue pump ran without a relay,, it aint pretty.
If you run a larger enough relay and fuse and proper wiring and some rubber mounts the pump will run quieter, cooler(ie less heat into the fuel) and the amperage draw does go down if properly installed.
As for the Regulator I would rather use a regualor and limit it to what my engine needs than fight a blubbery carb issue for ages.
Dont get me wrong the pumps can be ran without one or with a deadhead unit but if it has a light bleed then you dont have the cavitation problems thet leads to damaged pumps.
I have repaired dozens of cars that had fueling issues and after installing heavier wiring, good relays and fuses they mentioned the pumps were quieter, and the driveability of the cars usually got better.
Had one car came in and they hadthe pump ran with 12 guage wire, no fuse and no regulator. So I pulled it, it would deadhead about 4 psi, so I tore it down before sending it in for a rebuild (now we will sell it to the next customer as a referbed unit)and the brushes and armature was BURNT.
I wired in a oval GM relay, if you go much more than 10 ft on wire length in a high current circuit like a high speed fan or starter jump up(lower numericly), but for single fuel pumps I simply ran TXL 10 guage wire to the relay from the brass junction block(sourced from a stereo company). The junction block had a 1/0 fine wire welders cable from the battery.
A lot of the options added to the car got ran from this point so I installed a larger noise cap to keep electricla noise to a minimum.
The wire to the pump had a maxi fuse inline and I solder every crimp terminal then shrink tube them and if any terminal is exposed I give it a shot of dielectric grease to protect it.
The pump got mounted firmly with rubber grommets, I make sure the holes are protected from touch the bolts as it makes it a lot quieter.
Yes a lot of work but I pulled a fuel pump done similarly from a race car I helped wire 23 yrs ago and it is still kicking and it has a solid wave form and looks good.
I may go overboard but my cars rarely have any trouble.
Do what you want but you gotta do it right or its a half way job.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

[class67]

personally, the only time I hear mine is when I first turn the key on before starting. after that, I do not hear it, but I did rubber mount it and the whole car is Dynamatted! and by the way, no problems after two years, so far.