Shredded the distributor gear

[Paul69camaro]

I've been having issues with tuning my car for ever now and last night afte I tore the front apart to degree the cam in correctly I got the car running and it seemed to be running really smooth until out of no where the car backfires and dies. So I pull over and tried starting it again, no luck. After I get it towed home I noticed that it was not sparking so I took the distributor cap off and while I was checking the rotor I was able to spin it backwards. I pull the distributor out and notice that the teeth where chewed up for about a 1/3 gear. Then it hits me, I never changed over to a bronze gear when I installed the roller cam, I am guessing this is why it failed. Here are my questions:

1. Do you guys thinks I messed up the cam

2. I know there has to be some metal from the teeth in the motor, probably not much but what is the best way to get it out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Paul

[Goatman]

I doubt you hurt the cam. Those solid rollers are made from billet and are very, very tough.

Drain the oil from the pan and see what's in there. Use a paint strainer as its draining and you'll see everything.

[Blown353]

Who made the cam, what kind of cam was it (cast core, billet core, etc), and what kind/brand of distributor gear?

My experience has been when you shred an iron distributor gear you destroy the cam gear in the process. Been there, done that. The distributor gear was toast and the cam gear was about 1/2 shredded. Also, all the engine bearings and the oil pump itself were trashed from metal debris in the oil. If you have your oil filter bypass plugged you *might* have saved your bearings-- but don't count on it. My advice is not to half ass it and tear the engine down now and inspect all the bearings and change the oil pump.

[MonzaRacer]

OK i agree you need to do some investigating before buttonming it back up.
Now WHY IN HECK WOULD YOU GO AGAINST THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CAM?
Unless you have one of the cams that had the press on cast gear you must either use the Bronze gear or you can get one of the melonized gears from GM use in roller motors #10456413 .
I use these on all roller motors as I have had bad luck with cheap gears and even the name brand bronze gears dont seem to last.

[Paul69camaro]

I did'nt put a bronze gear in because I completley forgot, it was'nt that I was trying to get away with it. I got a gear on order and I guess I'm gonna pull the motor again so I can pull of the pan and check everything. Oh yeah, the cam is a lunati hydraulic roller cam.

Paul

[Paul69camaro]

Ok, so today i pulled the motor and went through everything. The cam was in great shape so that saved me 300 bucks. I did get a bunch of shavings in the oil and at the botom of the pan I found a bunch of large metal chips. I cleaned everything out,put it all back together and got it running again, this time with a melonized gear. (thanks for the part number Monzaracer). I figured that since I'm running a big block high volume pump in my sbc that it puts quite a load on the distributor gear but hopefully this one holds up. I'll be keeping an eye on it. Thanks for all the help guys.

Paul

[buickfunnycar.com]

Hope you got her straighted out....:bananna2:

[Samckitt]

That brings up an interesting question. First off Paul, I'm glad you didn't destroy to many parts. Now question, I have a 95 LT1, came from the factory with a billet roller cam. I have a high volume oil pump in it (haven't ran it yet). Will the factory oil pump drive (no distributor, shorty shaft to drive pump in its place) be strong enough?
Thanks

[MonzaRacer]

Yes, just remember that engine is designed for the newer thinner oils and not 20w50 racing oil.
My recomendation would be to use 5w40 Shell Rotella full synthetic and Delco filters. Should run around 60 to 65 PSI at cruise hot.
My roller L98 355 runs 62 in winter with 5w40 Kendal full Synthetic and about 59 to 60 in hot weather and my crank is polished on the loose end of specs.
As for using the old gear for new engine I would spend the $40 and replace it. Most dealers can get them in a day or two.
I used to keep several on the shelf and used them in EVERY SBC/BBC regard less of the cam design.
I like them as the coating protects the gears.
Strength is not brainer as GM uses them in all engines with billet cams even marine engines.
Good luck
Lee
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

[MonzaRacer]

Oh and I am going back to Shell oil as I no longer have access to the Kendal Full synthetic.

[Goatman]

Amsoil is the best!

[MonzaRacer]

Mechanicly speeking Amsoil isnt the best its over priced, hard to source, and as for lubricating I have had several engines that I built and the owners swore buy that garbage. Well for an engine to be torn down at half season to freshen it and the rod bearings were down to the steel back and 3 other exact same engines were being done same way also and one had 20/50 supertech from walmart in it and the amsoil engine was grundgy (for a drag engine) and ALL bearings were trashed ,heck we even had roller lifters with loose axle bearings.
4 engines all built at same time, well I figured aw heck we had something bad parts wise. so I didnt charge for freshen up but parts were replaced (I actually sneaked this engine in as one of the other guys as he wanted to change pistons and bore it more so we used the trashed engine for building bigger and took this guys engine that only really needed fresh bearings,rings and gaskets. So the same 4 guys bring them back to get them ready last fall for this year,,,, hmmm same engines, the amsoil unit was in horrible shape, WE had went to King bearings over Clevites in all of them too and danged if they looked like new in regualr 3.
Take amsoil and pour it into your buddies oil burner. It does not hold up in my experience.
I have seen this in street engines too.
The friend/customer has now went back to a better oil that i recommend,,, I joked that his buddy has had great luck with the 20/50 tech.
good luck if you run it, I wont use it on bicycle chains.
Lee

[Goatman]

LOL. Nice line of BS you got there...


Funny how everyone else knows its the best in the world....


And at $25 for oil and $9 for a filter once a year, its the cheapest oil change you'll ever do...



One 1994 GMC Sonoma with 271,000 on it and one 1994 Chevy 2500 with 235,000 on it say you're full of it........Original motors, oil changed once a year.... Same with the rear ends... And the 2500 trans is still on its virgin voyage too... The SOnoma's got rebuilt for the first time this winter..


As far as sourcing goes, I call up Amsoil and its at my door 2 days later.