Stainless Exhaust Bends - Suppliers? - Welding Tips?

[Bored&Stroked]

Hi Guys: I'm building a custom set of Stainless headers and there are many folks selling bends --> most 304, some better alloys. What suppliers have you used and which materials/alloys have you been the happiest with for tubing and for TIG filler rod?

I'll probably use 16 gauge stainless. Also, what about torch and electrode setup. My 'practice' welds have been with 3/32 2% lathinated - about 55 amps, etc..

Any suggestions on technique for the joints where the tubing does through the 3/8 header flanges? I'll weld on the inside (v-groove the flange, have tube sticking through and use the tube itself and filler to fill the groove.

Special tubing clamps -- anybody know if there are any specialized welding clamps for 1 3/4 to 2" tubing?

As you can tell . . . I"m a newbie to this -- all suggestions are helpful! :seizure:

THANKS!

[ProdigyCustoms]

Paging Mr Parsons! Mr John Parsons, you have a call on line one!

[parsonsj]

B&S,
I've dealt with Stainless Works for all my exhaust stuff. They have good stuff (304, anyway), keep it in stock, and ship immediately.

I use ER308L filler rod, and usually use the .030. 1/16 is often too thick, especially on the tubes. 55A seems too hot. I usually weld the tubes at around 30A. Also, when welding stainless tube: you must backpurge. Perhaps you already do, but you didn't mention it.

I weld the flanges on the inside just as you describe, but sand them flat when you're done, or they'll leak.

When welding stainless, watch the color of the weld. It's a really good indicator of proper heat. You want it to be silver/gold. Occasional blue is OK too. Just not gray. Gray is too hot, and indicates that SS alloy has un-alloyed (new word) and you can have oxidation problems.

Hope that helps.

jp

[FabUThis]

I would switch to a .040 or a 1/16 tungsten .

[Bored&Stroked]

Thanks a bunch - much appreciate the input.

Tubing Clamps: Do any of you guys know if there are any specialized 'tubing clamps' that would work on 2" or 1 3/4" tubing? I'd love it if there was some of of ViseGrip designed for round tubes -- that could hold the tubes together while I tacked them.

I'll post back when I start this 'phase' of my project - might help the next poor soul who is learning to do some of these things!

Dale

[parsonsj]

You may laugh, but I use masking tape for tube clamps. It holds up fine for the tacking heat. Be sure and use adhesive cleaner (like paint prep cleaner) to get the adhesive residue off before final welding.

I do it that way all the time.

jp

[marxcamaro]

bored&stroked
Eastwood autmotive tools and supplies has v-pad pliers that can be used on 1 1/2 to 3 inch pipe diameter. Since they are pliers you may have space issue but they may fit the bill.

Mark

[ammoyer]

We use bends and flanges (SS and steel) at our shop (Pinkee's Rod Shop) from SPD www.spdexhaust.com (http://www.spdexhaust.com) Very nice stuff. I have not compared them to Stainless Works.

I usually use 1/16" tungsten with 0.045 rod, but I'd try a thinner rod if I had access to it.

As far as clamping it, try some hose clamps with holes "drilled" in the band so you can get a few tacks in. This works well if the diameters of your tubing match extremely well. You may have to hammer the openings in the slices of bends to get them back to round to match straight sections and they will still be slightly smaller than a straight section. Bend to bend always seems to fit better. I have sliced straight sections axially in 2-4 places and hose clamped them down in diameter to get them to match. Usually only in a fully ground and to be polished system.

Make sure the fit between your pieces is balls on, SS tends to shrink a lot harder than steel and you can lose alignment if you're not careful. Also, I'll usually only fit & tack up 2-3 pieces and then weld them fully before moving on. This way only those 2-3 pieces can shrink and move around a bit & any movement can be compensated for with your next piece or two.

Lastly, backpurge, backpurge, backpurge. Steel wool works well for plugging tubing while still allowing a small amount of argon to flow (4-5 CFM).

I apologize for rambling a bit, but I just finished a SS exhaust system last week and this is all too fresh in my mind.

[Bored&Stroked]

We use bends and flanges (SS and steel) at our shop (Pinkee's Rod Shop) from SPD www.spdexhaust.com (http://www.spdexhaust.com) Very nice stuff. I have not compared them to Stainless Works.

I usually use 1/16" tungsten with 0.045 rod, but I'd try a thinner rod if I had access to it.

As far as clamping it, try some hose clamps with holes "drilled" in the band so you can get a few tacks in. This works well if the diameters of your tubing match extremely well. You may have to hammer the openings in the slices of bends to get them back to round to match straight sections and they will still be slightly smaller than a straight section. Bend to bend always seems to fit better. I have sliced straight sections axially in 2-4 places and hose clamped them down in diameter to get them to match. Usually only in a fully ground and to be polished system.

Make sure the fit between your pieces is balls on, SS tends to shrink a lot harder than steel and you can lose alignment if you're not careful. Also, I'll usually only fit & tack up 2-3 pieces and then weld them fully before moving on. This way only those 2-3 pieces can shrink and move around a bit & any movement can be compensated for with your next piece or two.

Lastly, backpurge, backpurge, backpurge. Steel wool works well for plugging tubing while still allowing a small amount of argon to flow (4-5 CFM).

I apologize for rambling a bit, but I just finished a SS exhaust system last week and this is all too fresh in my mind.

Don't apologize . . . you gave me a bunch of great ideas!

Question: Rod Size: I have found a supplier "Avesta" who makes a .035 ER308L rod - would you use this for 16 gauge header welds? They also have .045. Since I have to buy 10 lbs of the darn stuff - was wondering what size you'd use on 304L 16 gauge work? Thanks!


I have a very difficult set of headers to make (34 Ford coupe, 392 Hemi, 417 Donovan heads). Once I manage to setup the right bends to get past the frame rails, steering, etc . . . then I have to determine how the heck to get 'equal length' in the limited space below. Should be a real stainless 'snake pit'. I wanted to use 2" primary sizes, but I think I'm going to have to go to 1 3/4 to have any chance at all!

Thanks again!

[parsonsj]

I'd use the .035. It'll help you keep the heat down and the HAZ narrow.

jp

[Bored&Stroked]

I'd use the .035. It'll help you keep the heat down and the HAZ narrow.

jp

Thanks John . . . have some ordered.

Have you seen any issues with the 304L tubing suppliers that you've used? I've ordered a couple test bends from 'Mazzuri' to see the quality of the bends and how they weld up. Their prices seem to be better than most others. I contacted their people and their tubing comes from suppliers both on and off shore.

Was wondering what experiences you've had -- with not only tubing, but filler rod.

Site: http://www.mazzurisuper.com/

[80proZ]

If your purging why use filler at all.you can walk the cup on the tube,run your heat about 30-35 amps and make some beautiful,strong welds.Personally i'd look into purchasing the fittings from a non exhaust supplier as there parts are usually cheaper and the array of fittings are great.We get all are fittings from either Mcmastercarr or local suppliers who supply to Juice plants and such.
just my .02

[parsonsj]

I do a lot of SS tube welding without using filler. You'll probably need some for tacking or for gap filling. A properly fit joint of like thicknesses can usually be welded without filler at all. It does make the best looking welds.

jp

[80proZ]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
this one was done at about 30 amps.Decent weld and penetration on the inside.The tube is some 3" sanitary tube.It's polished inside and out.I used my Thermal Dynamics Dragster 85 110v inverter thats scratch start.If i was gonna purge it I would run it about 35-40 amps so you get good penetration.The inside of the weld should look just like the outside when you purge.

[Bored&Stroked]

Thanks for showing me examples of not using a filler rod. I've done similar welds/test on just mild steel. I totally agree that filler rod is not really needed -- except to add material so that you can finish/polish the stainless when you're through. If I was not going to post-finish the welds and polish the headers, then I'd probably try to do as much as possible with no filler.

Am I on the right track? What would you guys do if you wanted to finish/polish the results (kind of a show car type build).

Thanks!

[parsonsj]

If it were me, I'd leave the headers natural, using good metal working technique to minimize the need for filler rod. Stainless is hard to grind and sand ... so removing weld beads will take a lot of time.

And: headers turn golden within a few minutes of running ... polishing them seems like wasted effort. If you must have shiny headers, you need to coat them.

jp