Wilwood brakes on a Ford 9" rear in a 1st Gen...

[69TAPoser]

:help!:

I have a large bearing (old style with a 2.36 offset) Ford 9" rear with the internal parking brake. I tried to install my wilwood disk brake kit (140-7139D) last night and I have a few issues.

1. The caliper hits the staggered shocks (stock location) on the driver's side.

2. I have new moser axles and the bearing is pressed on the axle. You are supposed to slide the Wilwood bracket over the axle and slide the axle in the housing. However, once you do this, everything is sandwiched together and you don't have access to the mounting bolts.

I spoke with Wilwood and they said #1 isn't an issue as I can just flip the bracket over and mount it 180 degrees the other way. (caliper to the front). The only thing this will mess up is my e-brake cable location, but I have read that if I go with aftermarket Lokar cables, they are long enough to accomodate this. True, false?

Regarding #2, Wilwood did not have an answer (gee thanks Wilwood, I am the only guy with pressed on bearings???). I believe my only chance of getting them together is to disassemble the e-brake pads which would expose mounting nuts, then re-install the pads...but this looks nearly impossible. Thoughts, suggestions????

Thanks!

Phil

[6'9"Witha69]

Most rear brake setups are notched in the bracket so that axle removal is not required for install. Wilwood does not do this. I have never asked Wilwood if it is good to do, but I know a couple people who cut out the bottom part of the bracket to allow them to do this.

For me, rather than flipping the bracket around, I moved the lower shock mounting point inboard. This is impossible w/o fabrication on stock lower mounts, but my slide-a-link ones have a large flat surface for shock mounting, so it was easy.

[69TAPoser]

Thanks Nick. I don't think a notch would help in my situation the way the kit goes together. The problem is that the bearing is pressed on my axle so I have to slide the axle/hub fully into place before I can bolt it down. So the hub meets up with the e-brake pads covering up access to everything. There is a pic of the brake kit here:

http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds419.pdf

The image shows a bearing that is removable from the axle (mine is pressed on). If mine was seperate, I could just put the bearing in the housing, bolt the kit to the outside, and slide my axle through last. But on mine, because the bearing is pressed on the axle, I have to push the axle all the way into the housing 1st.

I was just wondering if I could put the mounting bolts in backwards so that the nuts end up exposed on the far side of the carrier? This would give me access to them. :dunno:

Phil

[69TAPoser]

Nevermind, I am a total dumba$$. Moser drills a hole in the hub to access the nuts from the outside. I didn't even notice it as is was on the bottom. No excuse, I am a moron! :spank2:

Phil

[67bird]

Try contacting Moser or Frank at Prodigy customs (GP superstore). Frank has sold lots of these as well as probably installed them. I also know that moser sells complete rears with them installed. Maybe either can help you out.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Ya know, I replied to this yesterday but I guess it did not post. I think I hit post and walked away to do something else. Weird stuff. Anyway, I was going to tell you to be sure you Moser axles were ordered with the access hole (looks like problem solved).

Did you get the full retainer of the "U" style retainer?. If you got the right stuff you should be able to poll your old axle, grind off your old retainer, slip the axle through the drum brake / caliper mounting plate, slide the "u" retainer over the axle, and call it a day.

See page 3 of the instructions for the kit for retainer description and diagrams.

http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds419.pdf

Looking through our sales records, I see you bought the master through use, but I do not see where you bought these brakes from us, but you are welcome to call us anyway to discuss the problem

four zero seven 832 1752

[Stan W]

I had the same problem,no hole in my Strange axle to access the bolt.I tack welded nuts to the plate and used some 12 point intake(small head) manifold bolts so I could turn them from the backside.You cant use regular bolts as the heads contact the axle tube.Worked for me.
Stan

[Whistle Pig]

I had the same problem with strange axles, After swearing for an hours I took the breaks out as mentioned above and fought to get the parking pads back in. Pain in the neck but very doable. No welding!