Please Advise: Concerns about Z06 purchase

[Ralph LoGrasso]

Hey guys,

I’m considering the purchase of an original one-owner ’02 Z06. The car was owned by a 59 year old gentleman who has too many toys, and didn’t drive the car much. As such, the car has only 580 miles; in effect, it’s basically a brand new 2002 Z06. I’ve looked at the car on a lift, and the underside of the car looks as though it’s never been driven. It’s literally clean enough to eat off of.

However, I’m concerned about the fuel in the car. Seeing as this car was driven so little, I’m worried that the gas may have been sitting in the tank for quite some time, or that the owner drove for like a year and a half on the complimentary tank fill-up when purchasing the car. Now, for all I know the previous owner used fuel stabilizer, or only filled the tank slightly for what he was going to drive. Or perhaps he drove for a year on the same tank. I just don’t know, hence the questions.

The car is at an old-fashioned father and son dealership; the dealership is really a throw back to the sixties (the owner is a life-long friend of the father, and they're selling the car for him). I’m going to call them on Saturday to see if they know what the actual circumstances with the gas are. However, I’d like to get everyone’s opinion regardless.

Basically, what I’d like to know is

A). How great of a concern is this, really? The car appears as though it’s never been driven, and I highly doubt it has ever seen redline, if not one time. So, most likely, even if the gas was old, the owner was just leisurely cruising with the car. The car is only 80 miles out of the break-in period.

B). What residual effects could running old gas through the car have? Will the car just run crappy while actually on that tank, or could it have long term effects?

I have not driven the car (but will before purchase), but I did listen to it run, and it idled beautifully.

Lastly, what precautions should I take if I do purchase the car, to prevent any possible problems from old gas?

My Uncle recommended dropping the tank, draining the gas and replacing the pump. I’m REALLY not wanting to do this, as it’s a ton of work and money, and I’m really not that concerned about the issue in the first place (it’s mostly pops’ concern).

I was considering doing either of the following, which would you recommend?

1). Adding fuel stabilizer to the tank, now. Fill up next tank with 93 (obviously) and some high-quality fuel injector cleaner in the tank.

2). Siphoning what is currently in the tank out, replacing with new tank of 93 and fuel stabilizer.

3). Purchasing about 5 gallons of 105 octane from a local gas station and adding that to the current tank. (Dumb idea perhaps?)

4). Suggestions?

The car is warranted for another two years or 50K miles, so that is an added bonus if there is actually an issue

All opinions greatly appreciated,

Thanks,
Ralph

[WS6]

too easy. Change the fuel filter, pull the injectors and have them cleaned and flowed(I can give you a place down here that's good if necessary), the tanks(yes there are two. one on each side in front of the rear wheels) can be drained easily. Get the car up with the back slanted downward slightly. Remove the metal sheilding in the wheel well and you'll find the lines sitting right there. You can pull each pump out and just let gas go everywhere or get some schematics and jump the fuel pumps off and have them pump into a container. Be careful pulling the pumps out, the fule level sender on the driver's side is fragile and you have to kinda rotate and reach in and pull it down to make sure it doesn't bend the float arm.

Change oil and antifreeze. The trans and rear end are fine. You can use light air pressure to blow out any fuel in the lines. Then just break the car in as if it was a brand new car. If the price is right, I'd get it. Don't worry draining the gas really is not hard. Getting the tanks out isn't hard at all either. Putting them back in is a little particular to make sure it's done right. If you do get the car, get a Helms manual. Worth every penny it'll cost you.

[WS6]

Oh yeah almost forgot, you'll need to get a fuel line disconnect tool to get the fuel lines off. It's just like your SS at the engine. Autozone should carry the tools. You'll need 5/16 and 3/8. If they have plastic ones and you want metal, find a Snap On truck. They will have them in stock for sure or they are a crappy snap on man.

[MrQuick]

If you test drive the car and there is no problems like miss fires or surging then I would not worry about it.

Don't add anything especially the 105. Run it on the recommended fuel octane and do not vary.

If it makes you feel better change the fuel filter and oil.

My honest suggestion is to take it on a long test drive 15-20 min Highway then 15- 20 traffic/city and then have the owner gas it up with Chevron. BEFORE YOU BUY IT Maybe buy him lunch for his time.

[vanzuuk1]

Take the money and finish your camaro...

[David Sloan]

Take the money and finish your camaro...

I'll 2nd that.:hammer:

[nbecker]

Don't add anything especially the 105. Run it on the recommended fuel octane and do not vary.

Im pretty sure 105 will be bad for the o2 sensors since its leaded.I would keep toping it of with 93 for the first 400 miles

[zbugger]

They have unleaded 105 octane. I think anything over 110 is leaded.

[silver69camaro]

It's only been 5 years. I'd just drive it.

[Jim Nilsen]

Definately leave it alone for the tank that is in there and then change the filters after you have use some fuel out of the tank to make sure you get the most crud out of the tank if there even is any.

I had an old caddy that sat for several years and everyone told me the gas would be bad. We poored a little bit in the carb to prime it up and it took right off and had no problems. It was a 425 and it did not like regular at all and it ran just fine on the old gas.

Drive it for sure and go at least 25 miles or more just to see how it responds.

I also think you should do the Camaro instead and get it done !!! Yes the Vette is nice but the operating cost will be more than getting the Camaro done and the cost of track days and upgrades.

If you can afford the Vette for awhile and turn around and sell it for what you paid for it ,you might call it fun and then you know what the Camaro should be like.

Yield not to temptation and deliver us from the Z06 OR Yield to temptation and be delivered a Z06

At least have fun test driving it if you can no matter what you do:yeah: :drive1:

[Ralph LoGrasso]

too easy. Change the fuel filter, pull the injectors and have them cleaned and flowed(I can give you a place down here that's good if necessary), the tanks(yes there are two. one on each side in front of the rear wheels) can be drained easily. Get the car up with the back slanted downward slightly. Remove the metal sheilding in the wheel well and you'll find the lines sitting right there. You can pull each pump out and just let gas go everywhere or get some schematics and jump the fuel pumps off and have them pump into a container. Be careful pulling the pumps out, the fule level sender on the driver's side is fragile and you have to kinda rotate and reach in and pull it down to make sure it doesn't bend the float arm.

Trey, thanks for the detailed response. I'm going to keep this as a contingency plan if the car has any issues during the test drive. If not, I think I will just flush the line at the intake, and add new gas.


Change oil and antifreeze. The trans and rear end are fine. You can use light air pressure to blow out any fuel in the lines. Then just break the car in as if it was a brand new car. If the price is right, I'd get it. Don't worry draining the gas really is not hard. Getting the tanks out isn't hard at all either. Putting them back in is a little particular to make sure it's done right. If you do get the car, get a Helms manual. Worth every penny it'll cost you.

Oil and antifreeze are on the list of things to do. Sage advice on the break-in. I think I will re-break in the car another 500 miles.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

If you test drive the car and there is no problems like miss fires or surging then I would not worry about it.

Thanks, Vince. That is what I like to hear.


Don't add anything especially the 105. Run it on the recommended fuel octane and do not vary.

I had a feeling that was a dumb idea.


If it makes you feel better change the fuel filter and oil.

My honest suggestion is to take it on a long test drive 15-20 min Highway then 15- 20 traffic/city and then have the owner gas it up with Chevron. BEFORE YOU BUY IT Maybe buy him lunch for his time.

I'm going to try and do that, thanks!



Take the money and finish your camaro...


Sage advice, Dirk. I really should finish the camaro, but it's still two or three years off and life is short.


Im pretty sure 105 will be bad for the o2 sensors since its leaded.I would keep toping it of with 93 for the first 400 miles

I forgot about the 02s. Good point!

[Ralph LoGrasso]

It's only been 5 years. I'd just drive it.

I like that, because all I want to do is drive it, LOL!


Definately leave it alone for the tank that is in there and then change the filters after you have use some fuel out of the tank to make sure you get the most crud out of the tank if there even is any.

I had an old caddy that sat for several years and everyone told me the gas would be bad. We poored a little bit in the carb to prime it up and it took right off and had no problems. It was a 425 and it did not like regular at all and it ran just fine on the old gas.


That is good to hear, Jim! Andrew B had a similar story with his RX7, so perhaps old fuel isn't as big a deal as I'm making it out to be.


Drive it for sure and go at least 25 miles or more just to see how it responds.

I also think you should do the Camaro instead and get it done !!! Yes the Vette is nice but the operating cost will be more than getting the Camaro done and the cost of track days and upgrades.

If you can afford the Vette for awhile and turn around and sell it for what you paid for it ,you might call it fun and then you know what the Camaro should be like.

Yield not to temptation and deliver us from the Z06 OR Yield to temptation and be delivered a Z06

At least have fun test driving it if you can no matter what you do:yeah: :drive1:

Like you said, if worse comes to worse, I can always sell it in a few years for (hopefully) minimal loss and call the time I had with it fun. I really should be focusing on the Camaro, but there's so many things standing in the way of getting it done right now, money is the least of my concerns.

Thanks for all the advice everyone, it is MUCH appreciated!!!!

[vanzuuk1]

Then buy it and drive it to the open house at xv motorsports.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

LOL, that is the plan! You going to be there?

[Steve68]

Pics ??????????? Is it a FHC??

[WS6]

All Z06s are FRC(fixed roof coupe).

Side note: give me a 99-00 FRC C5 vette over any of the other models. The regular coupe is ok, I just don't like the hatch that much. Verts, I'm not much of a vert person. Z06s are everywhere. I'm glad they sold well, but I was kinda bumbed to read they decided not to limit production like they originally planned. I can't blame them they made money out the wazoo on those cars, but the allure was gone for me. The days of having a trully special low production american car seem to be gone for the most part. Well some what obtainable low production american cars. The S7 is out there as is the Viper. I'd have to say the Viper is the only car I can think of that fits the idea of a speciallow production car. Maybe this new SS vette will trully be low production like they are planning. Then it might be cool to actually see one on the road.

[Boesch]

All Z06s are FRC(fixed roof coupe).

Side note: give me a 99-00 FRC C5 vette over any of the other models. The regular coupe is ok, I just don't like the hatch that much. Verts, I'm not much of a vert person.

I'd say to suck out as much as you can and then just fill it up with 93/91 and just listen to see how it's running. If there aren't any issues I'd call it good and just enjoy the car.

Not to get completely off subject here, but...

I'll agree, the C5 FRC's were the best looking cars around. If you really like the looks of the FRC but want the fun of the drop top convertible, check out the photos on this page....it's a convertible with a removable hardtop (yes it is a convertible, check the products page to see details). And yes, the convertible soft top is still on the car as well. It's a pretty slick setup. Buy a C5 convertible and then stick a set of twin turbo's on it and have some real fun. Well that was my idea anyway until I bought my C6.

http://www.caravaggiocorvettes.com/dev2001/photogallery9.html

[vanzuuk1]

Yes I will be there, I live five minutes away and I grew up with Scott at xv. Actually he grew up and I stayed the same.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

Yes I will be there, I live five minutes away and I grew up with Scott at xv. Actually he grew up and I stayed the same.

Sounds good! See ya there.

[TBART70]

drain

[TBART70]

drain gas, fill with super, 1 bottle chevron techron, 1 bottle gas line antifreeze.

[hectore3]

Ralph,

Also try out all the electrical accessories on the Z06 for proper operation. Soounds basic but you never know! Check over at corvette forums for all the issues with this particular year.

[Blown353]

Having purchased a couple very low mileage cars I would advise against doing so unless you also intend NOT to drive them or are willing to put up with possible issues.

Just a couple examples: My 1989 Turbo Trans Am had 2200 miles on it when I purchased it back in 2002. The front and rear mains were dried out and I had to change them, the front seal on the AC compressor was leaking, the pinion seal began leaking, the tranny had some shifting issues, etc. On my 87 Corvette which was stored for 3 years before I bought it, the clutch master & slave cylinder stuck and the seals tore when I drove it home, cooling system electrolysis rotted one head and required headgaskets & shaving the heads, the AC compressor front seal began leaking, etc.

Has the car been stored in an area with fairly well controlled temperature and humidity? Storing a car in an area with wide temperature swings (I see you are in NY) is asking for condensation to build up in various enclosed areas. I have pulled diff covers off cars that were stored in an area with no temperature control and the top half of the ring gear (that is out of the oil) has rust on it from condensation.

If the area has high humidity, seal areas can develop little specks of rust from not being used and upon driving the car the rust can damage the seals-- front/rear mains, wheel bearings, yokes, etc.

If the car has been stored with a COMPLETELY full tank of gas that is best-- the larger quantity will stay good longer, plus there isn't a large vapor area in the tank that can possibly lead to corrosion. A nearly empty tank will varnish up much more quickly than a full one.

If you do buy it, my recommendation would be to replace ALL fluids-- I mean EVERYTHING; brakes, clutch hydraulics, coolant, power steering fluid, transmission, diff. Do this all after driving it gently to warm them all up and mix up any possible moisture or contaminants so they drain out with the fluids. As far as the fuel situation, fill the tank and drive it *gently* for the first tank until it is nearly empty, then change the filter and refill and drive watching carefully for any misfire / fuel trim codes which may indicate a sticky injector.

The car is probably OK but I've encountered storage-related problems of one form or another on probably 80% of the low mileage/stored cars I have purchased and then started driving regularly. I'd now much rather buy a clean car with regular miles on it rather than a garage queen that may have storage issues. You might be OK though-- I just sold a 1993 Viper with 5500 miles on it (nearly all put on from 1993-1996) that didn't have a single storage related problem, but I was worried about possible electrolysis damage to the cooling system.

[Neil B]

The gas in my '69 Camaro has been in the tank since the '05 Power Tour. The gas in my 454SS pickup is over a year old. No fuel stabilizers and no problems. As has been stated earlier, low mileage cars are more likely to develop seal leaks.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

Thanks for the contined response, guys. Replies like Blown353 are really making me thing twice about purchasing this car. I want to buy a car, hop in and drive it--not have two project cars! I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks again!

[wendell]

Only idle time and the internet could make half a tank of gas this difficult. Cut the old guy a check. Drive the car till it needs more gas, add gas, repeat. Add brake pads and tires as needed.

Didn't you have a old camaro you were all hot and bothered about a while ago?

[Ralph LoGrasso]

Only idle time and the internet could make half a tank of gas this difficult.

Haha, this is true!


Didn't you have a old camaro you were all hot and bothered about a while ago?

Yep. I've still got my '68. The bodywork and body modifications have been happening slowly over the past year or so. Family illness and some other things have greatly slowed down it's momentum in the past. I'm hoping to move on to the suspension soon.

[69Nova]

So whats the news Ralph? Did you get the car?

[Ralph LoGrasso]

I haven't, but it is still available. I'm not sure I want to pay the premium for a 500 mile car, when anything under 10K will suit me just fine. I'm kind of going in circles at this point, trying to decide what to do. :rolleyes: