paint/primer question

[lt1chevelle]

well i was looking at the chevelle today to see how much body work still needs to be done i would say about 85% of its done the thing is i want to drive the car in the summer and really dont have the $ to pay for a paint job right now. the thing is when i was looking at it there are sand scraches in it. i was going to put about 3-4 good coats of feather fill primer on it and shoot some guid coat over it and call it good till the end of summer and the start to do the finale body work and prep work do u think the feather fill will fill in the sand scraches?

[HILROD]

Feather Fill will fill anything, pretty much. It is not the greatest stuff. It is hard to sand, shrinks, cracks easy, and I don't know if it will absorb water in the weather.

[TT402LS1]

well i was looking at the chevelle today to see how much body work still needs to be done i would say about 85% of its done the thing is i want to drive the car in the summer and really dont have the $ to pay for a paint job right now. the thing is when i was looking at it there are sand scraches in it. i was going to put about 3-4 good coats of feather fill primer on it and shoot some guid coat over it and call it good till the end of summer and the start to do the finale body work and prep work do u think the feather fill will fill in the sand scraches?

I do not like to prime over sand scratches. They seam to always come back. I would first sand them with 180 grit DA. Also, primer filler is not water proof, and the uv rays will break it down over time. A primer sealer like PPG DP40 (2 coats) would seal it and protech the body from moisture, but after you prime it I would make sure evrything is seam sealed and water tight. I wouldnt put any sandable primer on the car until your ready to block it. It would suck if you painted it a year later, than a while down the road your paint started to flake or peel because you had moisture between the paint and primer.

Just my .02

Ron

[lt1chevelle]

ya i might just go buy some diff primer the thing is i already have the jams painted and dont want it to change the color of the paint(darker/lighter) when i switch primers

[TT402LS1]

When you go and paint the outside, you can use the same sealer (if you seal the jabs before you painted them) you used on the jabs. Or you can "tint" the sealer before you lay the paint down.

Heres something to mess with your head.... Not only will sealer color effect the top coat color, but also - temp, humidity, and air pressure. Usally this is most noticable when spraying colors with pearls, or metalics. What color are you painting it??

Ron

[Bow Tie 67]

" Heres something to mess with your head.... Not only will sealer color effect the top coat color, but also - temp, humidity, and air pressure. Usally this is most noticable when spraying colors with pearls, or metalics. "
I try and paint the car in one shot, but have had to make compromises due to space constraints. If your careful to paint the car with the same technique on a similar day, ie. no extreme temp or humidity difference your ok.

As I side note I'm going through a similar process, but with no real body work done yet. I'm planning on using Kirkers Hot Rod black, it's inexpensive and will protect the car until I have the time to do the body and paint the correct way.

[lt1chevelle]

iam painting it Dark Cloisonne its a 96 zr1? vette color

[TT402LS1]

I would get rid of your sand scraches, seal with DP40. When your really for final prep, lay your primer surfacer down, (you'll need to scuff the DP40) and block it all out. When you go to paint seal it with a dark sealer, (or what ever you used on the jambs) and do what Bow Tie 67 said. The color your painting isnt too bad, and should match pretty well.

Ron