Lt1 swap help

[tb8125]

Hey guys I am going to move forward with LT1 swap. I know this is a old motor but it was what I could get. Was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction with this project.... this is my 1st major project. I have done low rider trucks and tuner cars and race bikes but not a major transplant like this.
Well I have a 72 camaro and a 97 lt1 from a z28 with auto/trans I have the full harness and ecu...I also pulled the fuel lines all the way but to the "quick conn" under the car and I have the fuel pump
I think dropping the motor is should be straight forward...
fuel tank? did not want to use a Ricks tank or anything like that want to use a stock tank with mods if possible
fuel line?
transmission? crossmember?
drive shaft?
wire harness conection? old and new?
and anyother info you and pass my way well help....
Thanks

[Steve N 69 69 69]

Hey, I have an LT1 in my 69 Camaro, and based on its performance, and bang for the buck I just got another LT!/T56 for my next project, a 70 RS/SS. Don't sell that motor short, its a strong runner, and a lot less expensive to build up than an LSx.
I went pretty much bottomless budget on the 69, but I'm going to try and use more of the stock parts, on this one, for now.

For PCM/wiring, I had my pcm programed by PCM4less, they removed,vats(anti theft), cags(skip shift),rev limiter, top speed limiter, and set up the fuel mapping for my exhaust and intake mods. Then I used the stock harness, and stripped out all the non essential wires, and grouped the like wires together. it took a while, and a lot of research. It seems to work pretty good, but I found an add on Ebay for a harness reworking( for a 4 wire hookup with the stock harness) and PCM flash for 199.00 from LT1wiring.com they've been around a long time, so I think I'll save myself the headache, and let them do the harness this time.

you can use the stock tank with an external pump and filter, but you'll have to put a return line on it someplace.
I'm going to try the stock tank from the donor car, with its internal pump, and run new -6 AN line for feed and return.
On the fuel rails you can use adapters from Pure Choice, but I like to cut off the stock fittings from the rails, and weld on AN fittings directly to the rails. It looks way cleaner, and is pretty easy.

The block just bolts in like any gen.1 small block, but the A.C. compresser my need to have some clearance notched out of the frame. Or a GM LE1 ac delete pulley can be used ( I may have one for sale )

Not sure on the cross member for an auto. I modified a T400 unit for my T56 in the 69 with the CW frame. I'll probably just bend one up from tube, for this car, but a little search on modern automatic swaps should find an answer for you.
Same for the driveshaft, some stock ones might fit( I seem to remember a FoMo sports aluminum mustang shaft fits 2nd gens with 700r4,but not sure) or just get it all in , measure, and have yours shortened, or get an aftermarket unit. I'll be ordering another aluminum shaft from Inland Empire Driveline ( great people/product)

Cooling is a little weird on the LT1. you can use a stock radiator, or one from a LT1 car. but with a stocker, you need to have a place to add the coolant line from the oil cooler, and the steam tube on the heads. I added a custom expansion tank for this, and will do the same on the 70.

Look at my site below for some pics of the motor install.
Hope this helps.
Later,

[tb8125]

thanks just one question when you say donor car which car are you speaking of?????
I spoke with the guy from ltwiring a while back I am going to let him do my harness also and the ECU programing....

[Steve N 69 69 69]

donor car.. the one that gave up its guts for a better cause.. in my case, a 94 Z28, that I got the engine ,trans,tank,gas pedal, etc. from.
check out the LSx section on this forum, i just looked for the first time, theres lots of swap tips there that apply to any F.I. engine.

[tb8125]

thanks

[barno68]

I am doing this same swap on a '71 Camaro. The crossmember is easy; just move it up so the rear x-member holes line up with the front holes in the sub-frame and then drill new front holes. The trany mount is a single stud, so just drill a hole in the center of the mounting pad on the x-member and you are done. Should not take more than 30 minutes.

I have all the electrical drawings and pictures of my harness if you decide to do your own.

Mine is a corvette motor, but take a look at this forum link and you can see my setup. Fairly straight forward, but there is a bit of trial and error on getting everything to fit:

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22131

Brent