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RKHiPerformance
04-16-2007, 07:26 AM
What do you guys think is the best way to secure a car to an open trailer? I've been told that tying the car to the trailer via the car's frame or axle and compressing the car's suspension so it cannot move while under way is the best route.
But I've also been told that compressing the suspension can cause damage to the car's suspension because it cannot react in response to road irregularities, and that the best method is to secure the car to the trailer by the car's wheels. Any thoughts?
And do you guys tip on take-out orders?

Thanks,
Rick

TheMonkey
04-16-2007, 08:09 AM
.... I've been told that tying the car to the trailer via the car's frame or axle and compressing the car's suspension so it cannot move while under way is the best route....

tying to the axle would not compress it though?

i think you'll hear different opinions. i asked a similar question on another forum and the general consensus was that people tie to rear axle in back and lower control arms in front. but, some people that were concerned with their racing shocks were coming up with ways to secure the frame rigid against the trailer without compressing, or allowing movement.

takeout tips, yes, although sometimes call an audible.

zbugger
04-16-2007, 10:14 AM
Most of what I've heard is to safety chain to the frame, but I've heard most racers strap to the axles. According to them, the suspension was designed to move anyway. If possible, the best way is to strap the wheels down. Then again, it's all up to you and what you feel is comfortable, really.

MrQuick
04-16-2007, 10:20 AM
The last thing you want to do is to secure at the body. The car has a lot of force going over bumps and such and it will redesign the body if you strap there.

Best spots are axles and frame hook holes. Use proper axle loop straps and protective liners to keep the straps from tearing.

Also remember to scriss cross the straps for optimum hold.

Chad-1stGen
04-16-2007, 10:24 AM
I'll also say that trying to compress the susension or hooking just to the frame is asking for trouble. You wan't the car's suspension to be able to absorb the impact of bumps and whatever else.

Most rentable auto transport trailers have a provision to secure the front wheels and a chain to go around the rear axle to keep vehicles in place.

bretcopsey
04-16-2007, 11:01 AM
Aren't most vehicles produced with some sort of tie down provisions in the frame though? :hmm: for shipping purposes...

ProdigyCustoms
04-16-2007, 11:06 AM
I always have tied to the lower control arms up front and around the rear axle out back. This way your tying the tires to the trailer and letting the body ride on the suspension. I hate the idea of shakling down the car down by the chassis.

ViperBlue68
04-16-2007, 11:33 AM
I used to use the frame holes until a tow truck driver guy told me the best way was at the wheels I figured he knew what he was talking about because he did it daily for the past 15-20 years...seems to work fine so far :scared:

David Pozzi
04-16-2007, 12:02 PM
I welded rings to the spring perches on the rear and tie in an X pattern, and pull to the rear quite bit which insures a good F/R pull, not straight down.

On the front the A arm is a very good point, often I just wrap a short padded ring strap around the front anti-roll bar and tie from that. I don't X the straps then, it just doesn't work well on my setup. Not the best but it works fine for me. When I can, I have tied to the factory tie down slots in the frame up front and gone across the country 3 or 4 times that way. If you tie to the frame, the car jerks on the straps more and on a downward bounce the straps can have some slack in them and even unhook if the frame end is not very securely held in place.

The trailer has it's own suspension, so the car isn't riding that rough. I have read in magazine articles about concerns of damage or wear of shocks by letting the car move on it's suspension via tying down by the axle/A arms. Some say to tie it down pulling the frame down onto blocks. But I haven't seen anyone do this.

parsonsj
04-16-2007, 12:26 PM
I'm no expert (nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night).

I welded D-rings into II Much's frame behind the rear tires and behind the front tires. I X the back, and not the front. The front rings pull forward, and the rear rings pull down (loading the rear suspension more than the front). I've hauled the car thousands of miles that way with no issues.

I'm with David that the trailer suspension is designed to take most of the road abuse, so I don't know how important loaded suspension vs unloaded suspension actually is. One thought is that you don't want to ratchet the suspension down so that the shocks bottom out (especially if you don't have bump stops). Obviously, keeping the car secure is the most important thing.

jp

Chad-1stGen
04-16-2007, 01:24 PM
I've only used rented trailers and their suspension just plain sucks...

Damn True
04-16-2007, 01:26 PM
I'm in agreement with David and JP.

...and if I have to place my order at a counter or carry my own food I do not tip.

vintageracer
04-16-2007, 01:32 PM
I find it interesting that the concensus among individuals is to strap the car to the A arms and rear axle when EVERY commercial car hauler hauling new and used cars ties the strap or chain to the frame. The commercial car hauler (portable parking lot) usually uses a fitting that twist's into OR hooks to the fame at a point designed by the manufacturer for just such use.

I tie cars on my 1 and 2 car trailer to the rearend and lower control arms as do many as listed above.

Since the OE manufactuers have designed their cars to be transported by rail/truck, the trailers (portable parking lots) are manufactured specifically for the purpose of transporting vehicles AND the fact that the commercial car haulers haul FAR MORE CARS than all of us put togther and do so FOR PROFIT, could it be that they know a little more about hauling/transporting a car than we do????

Damn True
04-16-2007, 01:42 PM
Good point. But do you tip on take-out orders?

Chad-1stGen
04-16-2007, 01:47 PM
I always feel a tad uncomfortable but the logical side of me prohibits from tipping on take out orders...

I think tips are out of control in the US. Tips are supposed to be for good service and if I don't get good service I don't tip.

parsonsj
04-16-2007, 02:36 PM
I find it interesting that the concensus among individuals is to strap the car to the A arms and rear axle There were a couple exceptions ... :)

I don't tip on takeout. I do tip the pizza guy (how will those guys from Ohio State make a living otherwise? :poke: ).

jp

RaceMan
04-16-2007, 03:25 PM
I've trailered alot of race cars and we'ved moved some very expensive cars for some people, we did both the frame and axels or tires , my father towed his nice durango and didn't tie the body down at all and it bounced up and dented the roof alittle(had a lift above it with room)
We always feel safer with both.

68sixspeed
04-16-2007, 04:30 PM
I cross tie the rear end by the axels, and then the front by the lower a-frames. Years ago a stock car I was working on was tied by the chassis and compressed (thinking of saving the shocks.) and the car was moved over against the side of the enclosed trailer by the time we got to the track. Not cool... I guess if you are worried about too much suspension movement, they sell an air bag setup to go under the car and support it in transit- I've seen drag guys use it to save their soft suspensions. I think it is listed in National Dragster for sale.

BRIAN
04-16-2007, 05:05 PM
I tie down looping through the wheels. This way the suspension isn't in a bind. I bought 2 straps with the loops built in and 2 without. Not too many solid wheel designs besides Centerlines so it should work on just about any A/M wheel equipped car.

Trailers bounce around a lot and so does the car on them.


Look in Hemmings I can't think of the place but they also sell specific tire straps that go across the tops of the tires like most flatbeds use on high end exotics. No scratches on anything, no complaints.

TheMonkey
04-16-2007, 05:20 PM
....
Look in Hemmings I can't think of the place but they also sell specific tire straps that go across the tops of the tires like most flatbeds use on high end exotics.....

they have these at Northern Tool. they also have the axle straps.

shmoov69
04-16-2007, 08:03 PM
I have always just thrown a couple long straps across the hood and fenders in front and across the trunk and quarters in back!! My grandpa just put them in park and set the brake! He said "if it wants to go, I don't want to stop it, it might turn the truck over!" Needless to say, he lost a few!! LOL!

So, the a-arms are a good point? I have always went across the crossmember in the front. But that is a royal PITA with how low it sits! On the wagon, I had to compress the suspension in the back because it was bouncing too much and causing the trailer to sway over 80mph. The car was as far forward as I could get it with the tie down in the front. Squishing the suspension solved that problem.
David-will the stress not bend the sway bar? Or is it strong enough to hold the car?

NOT A TA
04-16-2007, 08:31 PM
I trailer long distances pretty regularly with different types of cars. The type of car sometimes changes the way I tie it down. Since most of the cars here are lowered with big wheels/tires heres my thoughts.

Low cars are hard to get under to strap to axles and control arms. Plus who wants to be on a trailer floor if ya don't have to. For my Firebird I bought some 3' padded axle straps and use them through the wheels. A 3' strap allows use around 315 35's on an 11" TT II rim. Then used ratchet straps to the D rings in the floor. No bent brake lines, stress on suspension parts, or grease on my clothes/ seats after loading up!

Crossing the straps keeps "drifting" sideways to a minimum. Also crossing helps if the trailer is hit from the side preventing the car from hitting the wall in an enclosed or fender on an open.

Always check all 4 ratchet straps a few miles after beginning a trip after everything has a chance to settle a little.

ProdigyCustoms
04-16-2007, 08:39 PM
Good point. But do you tip on take-out orders?

OK, I admit it. I tip the little hottie at the Starbucks drive through. She smiles at me and acts like she likes me! And her tip jar of the window sil is always overflowing.

justanova
04-16-2007, 08:49 PM
I find it interesting that the concensus among individuals is to strap the car to the A arms and rear axle when EVERY commercial car hauler hauling new and used cars ties the strap or chain to the frame. The commercial car hauler (portable parking lot) usually uses a fitting that twist's into OR hooks to the fame at a point designed by the manufacturer for just such use.

I tie cars on my 1 and 2 car trailer to the rearend and lower control arms as do many as listed above.

Since the OE manufactuers have designed their cars to be transported by rail/truck, the trailers (portable parking lots) are manufactured specifically for the purpose of transporting vehicles AND the fact that the commercial car haulers haul FAR MORE CARS than all of us put togther and do so FOR PROFIT, could it be that they know a little more about hauling/transporting a car than we do????


I don't know about other mfg's but bmw has plastic shipping spacers that they put on the shocks to keep the suspension from compressing too much and to give the car a little extra ride height for loading/unloading.

when we haul our dirt modified(i do it this way usually on other cars too) we tie to the axle in the rear and cross the straps side to side. and on the front we hook into the holes on the bottom of the frame behind the control arm mounts and tie straight forward, this pulls the car forward but does not compress the suspension, seems to work pretty good.

StRacerDuke
04-17-2007, 05:46 AM
There is a much quicker and far safer way to tie a car to a trailer. You need a new fresh roll of duct tape, starting at the center of the roof rap it around the car, down the door, under the trailer, and back to the roof. Make three passes to be safe and you are good to go.

MonzaRacer
04-17-2007, 09:30 PM
The proper Dot way is to tie over the differential then tie to the front cross member and compress the front suspension as the front wont move a lot due to weight,,,then I tension the rear to pull the car in tension its being "pulled in two and the front wont bounce over rought roads but the softer rear suspension will allow it to "give or bounce" over rough roads and not stress the body.
To actually be true DOT legal you should also use a minimum of 3 tie downs and actually I will tie it down then if the traile has a winch I leave it under slight tension tied to the cross member, and a second chain/strap on the rear not as tight but atleast tight enough to not let car off if others fail.
Most guys I know on race cars have hook plates n front of the rear axles and behind and hook over the axle housing on both sides with seperate straps, and atleast one on the front crossmember/tie point in front (I prefer 2 ).
Good Luck

RKHiPerformance
04-18-2007, 11:39 AM
At the same time I posted this question here I sent the question to Jeff Smith at Car Craft. Seems unnecessary now...Thanks for all the replies!
I guess we're good tying to the rear axle and through the front wheels. But I still don't know if I'm straight on the appropriate tippage for take out orders...
:dunno:

Thanks again,
Rick

MonzaRacer
04-22-2007, 11:02 AM
Well after doing 7 hauls this weekend (saturday) I had a few cars that couldnt be tide over the crossmenmber so we used holes in the frame and pulled the front down and forwardagainst the chain/strap tied to the diff.
One guy was worried about scratching his diff paint so we simply cut up an area rug and threw a piece over the diff under the chain. His wife helps at an uppolstery shop (one of the olde time shops that can make sewn to fit carpets) and is going to use some of the carpet we cut and make me some chain sleeves to carry when hauling (it was her Camaro we hauled).
Also if I knew I would be hauling I think I would have some round loops welded to the front (sub)frame horns so you can get a chain on it and then after you paint it or powder coat it got your local hardware store and get some cool color of plastidip and dip the rings in it, saw it on the Camaro after we got it home.
I think the pics came out Ill find my cam cable and show the pics I took.
But then if you have ahardware store similar to the one I got to then you can even get color coordinated Duck tape to match the paint!
Heackj the one I go to even has the actual metal duct tape not this plastic immitation.

mpozzi
04-22-2007, 03:54 PM
Always use a four-point tie down and the attachment points will depend on the type of car.

If you're towing a car that has aluminum alloy suspension, do not attach to any part of it to secure the vehicle to a trailer. Under load, these parts will bend and your alignment will change. And if you're hauling a car for $$$, you may be liable for the repairs.

However . . . the absolute best way to secure a car is with the wheels. There are straps with D-rings that lasso through the wheel openings and can be connected to the ratchet tie-downs. Make sure the D's are positioned on the tires, not on the wheels, to avoid damage.

As far as the slotted frame openings are concerned, be careful as they're usually rated for about 3,500 lbs pull tension. I've seen these rip out over time and loading. Opt for some part of the car that's more solid such as the wheels.

Set the parking brake (if there is one) and leave the transmission in Neutral, not in gear. If left in gear, repetitive "rocking" from light movement can damage gears and shift forks.

And if I have to put it on my plate or carry it to my table, plus take the detritus to the waste can, no tip. I do tip the delivery guy or if I get extra-special nice treatment at Starbucks.

Cheers,
Mary Pozzi

zbugger
04-22-2007, 04:47 PM
Drove past a couple "Wagoneers" car haulers the other day. All the cars had the wheels strapped down. Suspension free to move around. Just thought I'd mention it....

WEAVER
04-22-2007, 07:42 PM
Tie downs? thats why i keep losing cars, most people i've seen use a-arms and axle.

CraigMBA
04-23-2007, 09:10 AM
E track and tie down all four tires.

About ten years ago we wasted a set of Penske shocks on a South West Tour car trailering the car with the suspension not blocked up. "Wasted" meaning we wore out the bodies and the shocks lost their valving. After that we always blocked the car up once we got in in the trailer right before we cinched it down.

For a street car it doesn't matter.

streetrod77
04-23-2007, 01:45 PM
My trailer has the hooks on the outside of it. Can I still X the back straps? Seems like the straps would rub on the edge of the trailer with that much angle on it.

MarkM66
04-24-2007, 05:56 AM
I just put the car in Park.

CraigMBA
04-25-2007, 08:39 AM
I just put the car in Park.

OR flatten all four tires!

Charley Lillard
04-26-2007, 06:03 AM
Vintageracer... Most commercial carriers are carrying a bunch of cars and stacking them close together. They tie down at the frame to limit the car travel because there is usually another car within inches of it.