Questions about ProCharger P1SC....(many)

[buns]

I've searched this forum and Prochargers website and brochures but I still can't find what I'm looking for. My engine is a Chev 350, built for 10 lbs. of boost. I'm not trying to rotate the earth with this setup, just looking for reliable tire smoking horsepower.

Procharger claims that the P1SC is "designed for quiet operation". Is this true? I don't mind a bit of whine such as you would get with a turbocharger, but I don't want to be heard coming from a mile away.

Nowhere on their website do I see any mention of optional pulley sizes. They only list one part number for the kit so I must assume that there is a standard pulley included with it. I spoke with two vendors regarding this. One told me to " call Procharger" , the other had " no idea".

In their old brochure (from 2001) they sold a boost referanced mechanical fuel pump. I don't see this listed anymore. I'm wondering if maybe it didn't work too well, so they dropped it. I am running a 'deadhead' fuel supply and this seemed like an affordable option.

Does the P1SC require the use of a 'long' water pump. I hope so, because I spent way too many hours polishing mine.

They used to sell a power steering relocation kit for a saginaw pump, now all I see is Jayco, which I have never heard of. Why do you need to move the pump? Does it need to be moved down to clear the supercharger housing, or does it need to be moved in or out to align with the new drive pulleys?

Years ago , I read several magazine articles regarding the install of the Procharger system ( some were supplied by Procharger). There was never any mention of the use of a 'bypass valve'. Now I see that Procharger says that this valve is " recommended above 8 psi or with intercooler". Any comments?

Well, that should about do it ( for now). I see that there are several Procharger vendors that frequent this site so I will list the details about the car and the engine so that I can refer to this post for info.

Car: 1966 Corvette -small block hood (clearance?)
Engine:
350 Chev 4 bolt mains
Keith Black Forged Step-Dish pistons (18.5 cc)
Eagle forged crank, H-beam 6" rods
Barry Grant Mighty Demon 750CFM 'Blow-Thru'
Comp Cams NX262H....218/230 duration at 0.050
..............................462/480" lift
..............................113 degree LSA
Trick Flow aluminum heads- 64cc/cc ....195cc intake,75cc ex. ports
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
Compression Ratio 9.0 to 1

[64duece]

They're reasonably quiet.

They or your dealer will set you up with the appropriate sized pullies for your application.

The best system is a return style electric pump with boost referenced regulator. Fuel system is very important....DON"T SKIMP HERE!

That's correct, they're designed for the long pump and the p/s relocation is to clear the blower.

Bypass valves are used to stop the "surging" that takes place when the throttle is rapidly shut after running high RPM/boost. The air backs up in the compressor and causes some surging which has led to bearing and compressor wheel failures or premature wear. They're a good idea as the more boost (ie airflow) the worse this condition is. The intercooler adds additonal volume to this equation, that's why it's recommended here as well.

I've heard Frank from Prodigy is an excellent source on here to deal with. He'll likely chime in with some contact info.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Thanks Dennis,

I've searched this forum and Prochargers website and brochures but I still can't find what I'm looking for. My engine is a Chev 350, built for 10 lbs. of boost. I'm not trying to rotate the earth with this setup, just looking for reliable tire smoking horsepower.

600HP is no problem with the P1SC if properly specked out along with the other critical components.

Procharger claims that the P1SC is "designed for quiet operation". Is this true? I don't mind a bit of whine such as you would get with a turbocharger, but I don't want to be heard coming from a mile away.

There is some whine, but nothing like the bigger blowers. It is a acceptable amount of whine

Nowhere on their website do I see any mention of optional pulley sizes. They only list one part number for the kit so I must assume that there is a standard pulley included with it. I spoke with two vendors regarding this. One told me to " call Procharger" , the other had " no idea".

Well, those are 2 vendors to stay away from. Every ProCharger is built for the specific application. We will work with you reviewing your HP goals gathering or changing your component specs, then we will work with ProCharger to build the blower for you

In their old brochure (from 2001) they sold a boost referanced mechanical fuel pump. I don't see this listed anymore. I'm wondering if maybe it didn't work too well, so they dropped it. I am running a 'deadhead' fuel supply and this seemed like an affordable option.

You need a boost reference regulator to add 1LB of pressure for each 1LB of boost.

Does the P1SC require the use of a 'long' water pump. I hope so, because I spent way too many hours polishing mine.

Yes, factory ProChargers are built for long pumps

They used to sell a power steering relocation kit for a saginaw pump, now all I see is Jayco, which I have never heard of. Why do you need to move the pump? Does it need to be moved down to clear the supercharger housing, or does it need to be moved in or out to align with the new drive pulleys?

Moved down

Years ago , I read several magazine articles regarding the install of the Procharger system ( some were supplied by Procharger). There was never any mention of the use of a 'bypass valve'. Now I see that Procharger says that this valve is " recommended above 8 psi or with intercooler". Any comments?

You need a small blow off valve

Well, that should about do it ( for now). I see that there are several Procharger vendors that frequent this site so I will list the details about the car and the engine so that I can refer to this post for info.

Car: 1966 Corvette -small block hood (clearance?) Cool, we are doing a ProCharged ZO6 motor in a 66 Vette
Engine:
350 Chev 4 bolt mains Good
Keith Black Forged Step-Dish pistons (18.5 cc) Good
Eagle forged crank, H-beam 6" rods Good
Barry Grant Mighty Demon 750CFM 'Blow-Thru' Have not used one yet, so have no real experiance. but it is built for the application
Comp Cams NX262H....218/230 duration at 0.050
..............................462/480" lift
..............................113 degree LSA Looks OK, but a bit conservitive, probably a 525HP to 550HP cam
Trick Flow aluminum heads- 64cc/cc ....195cc intake,75cc ex. ports Good
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake Good
Compression Ratio 9.0 to 1 Good

Call me with any other questions

Frank
four zero seven 832 1752

[buns]

Thankyou both for your speedy and consice replies. One more ( two part ) question regarding vacuum advance and power brakes. The Mighty Demon has ports for vacuum, but they say " these will see boost at some time". Are there any special precautions I should take so that the power brake booster will not see boost? I would imagine the vacuum canister on the distributor would just return to it's unadvanced position.

Frank, I will give you a call next week when I can. Just so you know, I will want the polished version.

P.S. Almost forgot. Does anyone have any preferances for head gaskets? I have been out of the high performance arena for a while. I have heard that ROL makes a sturdy gasket. Any comments?

[64duece]

I would suggest a check valve in anything that "shouldn't" see boost pressure like a brake diaphram.

You are correct, the vaccum advance will adjust to it's normal postion under "zero vacuum" and "boost conditions".

I have had good luck using Cometic MLS gaskets.

[whytry]

I will give 1 vote for Frank! He helped me with my setup and countless hours of phone prep and going over exactly what I wanted to do and f my thoughts were "real world" possibilities or dreams, and he is honest and open with his thoughts on what I wanted to do. He helped me with deciding on intercooler or not, and pulley size. He set me up with 2 pulleys 1 for lower boost (10 psi) and an additional for when I need more, (when do you ever not need more right....)(15 psi)... For a Vette I think the P1SC is one of the only ones Procharger has that will fit under the hood, other than their Compact series.....

[Blown353]

Just an FYI on Procharger's SBC power steering brackets:

They're junk.

The Saginaw (large style) mount is OK but on the flexible side.

The outward mount remote-reservoir style without an idler (uses a swinging bracket to tension the belt) is WAY too flexible and you'll squeal the belt during low speed steering from bracket flex.

The inward mount remote-reservoir style that uses a backside idler for belt tensioning is bad news as the idler pulley bends the V-belts the wrong way and you blow up belts every 500 miles or so.

I know all of this from experience... been there, done that, blew up several belts, finally built my own bracket and things have been fantastic ever since.

As far as noise levels go, personally, my P1-SCH was louder than I liked but several guys who have built quite a few Procharged cars said my headunit was one of the quietest they had ever heard. It wasn't annoyingly loud but you always hear it. Luckily once at cruising speed it blends in and almost goes away. It's very noticeable at low speeds & idle though when you don't have a lot of road or wind noise to cover it up. I actually like the gear whine but I like it very subdued, I wish Procharger could come up with something with a very muted whine like a Vortech SQ series.

We'll see what it sounds like when it comes back from ATI, I recently had to send it back for a very leaky high speed seal and it's coming back upgraded to a D1SC.

Looking at your combo, I would suggest headwork (spend some time on the exhaust side of those TFS heads) and also change to a Victor Jr. or other small single plane, it will have better "on boost" mixture distribution than the RPM Air-Gap will. I ran an RPM Air-Gap with my Procharger for a while and there was a noticeable plug to plug difference. For headgaskets I highly recommend MLS type gaskets. As far as your carb, completely disassemble it and inspect it. Barry Grant is infamous for leaving burrs and aluminum chips in their billet metering blocks and in the carb body & air bleeds which can cause you all sorts of tuning & driveability problems. I've never worked on a Demon that *didn't* have junk in the metering blocks right out of the box.