Looking to buy a 2nd Gen... what to look for?

[Nutsy]

My brother is looking to buy a 2nd Gen Camaro. He found a good 10 footer 72 Camaro w/ split bumper setup for a good price. What kind of things should he be looking for?

Numbers matchins isn't important. He is going to be doing a Pro Touring setup on it...

He is mainly concerned with the body and all the key components of the car.

Where are the rust proned places?
Any other "quirks" to be looking out for before buying?

Let me know.

Thanks,

Trev

[zbugger]

Body. Basid stuff there. How do the doors open and close? Are they sagged? Make sure it's not twisted. How much work is he looking to do, really?

[StaticAGE]

I agree with Allen, basic stuff really. All cars are the same for the most part. As far as rust (at least on my 77 T/A) the rear quarter panels, radiator support, and floors are pretty high rust spots. Trunk too. The only main difference between the f-bodies compared to other cars is the lack of a "frame". Because there is only some sheet metal holding the front and rear subframes together, the bodies tend to get bent out of shape rather easily. As with all cars, if your brother is willing to do the work, anything can be fixed. If he can get it for a good price and it isn't a complete wreck, I say go for it.

[MrQuick]

If your payin good money for an RS make sure its real. Slit bumper and rubber nose sure...they also had hide away wipers,chrome ring around the tail lights,and deluxe perimeter chrome.
Other rust spots to look for are base of front and rear windshield.

[Steve Chryssos]

The only main difference between the f-bodies compared to other cars is the lack of a "frame". Because there is only some sheet metal holding the front and rear subframes together, the bodies tend to get bent out of shape rather easily.

This is the most important part. Get under there and really scrutinize the body mount areas (Subframe, floors, rad support), then check again by lifting up the rugs (which will require simple removal of the sill plates. Then get under the back and in the trunk and look at the shock mounts.

If you have the opportunity to get the car in the air, really check the underside thoroughly. Bet way to get that opportunity is to bring your own floorjack, stands and creeper. That way there are no excuses. "Oh..that's okay sir, we brought our own. :naughty:

[RobM]

also check the insides of the rear frame rails, if the car was drivin in the winter in the salt this is a rust spot. i missed this on my car and wasnt too happy to find it later in the build

[Lowend]

Look behind the side windows, there is a lead seam there that can come through the paint.

[zbugger]

I forgot to add about the lower corners of the front winshield. The entire windshield, actually. It's prone to leaking from there. Kinda common actually.

[Steve Chryssos]

Also check to see that there are no cheesy 70's 8-track or cassette tapes under the seats. If you come across any Foreigner, Air Supply or REO Speedwagon--walk away!!

[Piet]

Piet's TOP 10 things to look for in a 2nd Gen
With help from MANY MANY others at www.nastyz28.com

1) Numbers are important for determining price. Decode the VIN and body codes. (see www.nastyz28.com for this) If you are paying for an RS... it better be an RS. Many base cars are sold as an RS or LT etc.... Personally I don't care since I am planning to Mod the car anyway... but it is important when discussing price. Just because it has bumperettes... does not make it a split bumper. There are a lot of pieces that make up a split bumper (the most noticable being the signal lights). I have seen many base and LT coupes sold as RS split bumpers.
For RS info check here: http://www.nastyz28.com/faq/rs-faq.html

2) The rear framerails (above and in-front of the rear axle) are everything on these cars. Unless you plan to sink major bucks into the rear end anyways.... it's a non starter. Rusty frame rails are probably the hardest part to fix on these cars. They are not cheap... they are a pain to fix... and they are VERY prone to rust. Check the inner wheel wells and bottom of quarter panel while you are at it.

3) The second most common problem on these cars are the front mounting points for the rear leaf spring... many a 2nd gen has had thier rear leafs poke through the rusty floor pan.... Ouch!

4) The next rusty point is the front subframe mounting points. Many have removed a section of rusty floorpan while unbolting the sub-frame. These mounting point are prone to rust. Check the bottom rear of the fenders while you are at it.

5) Check for floorpan welding... (underneath the car and underneath the carpet) I have seen one car where they welded two halves of a car together... bad news... won't pass inspection.

6) Check for bondo or cracks between the top rear corner of the door and the rear window... telltale sign of hard driving. There is a seam here mating two body panels... poor design to make a seam on a stress point... oh well.

7) Check for cracks and rust around the windshield (it is a structural component on a 2nd Gen) Check for leaves and crap in the vents while you are at it.

8) Check door allignment crooked doors may indicate crooked body. Check the the door sills and rockers panels below the door while you are at it.

9) The hardest interior pieces to get are the interior sail panels and kick panels (the plastic ones) Interior colors are a pain to change. and these pieces are hard to get.

10) Check the interior bracing on the hood. Stiff hood hinges put extra pressure on the hood when closing, and OFTEN cracks appear on the interior braces of the hood (just infront of the hinge mount), Make sure to weld these cracks.. or one of these days the hood will fold while you are trying to close it. Then oil the hinges.

PS
- No, the clock does not work.
- Yes the front dash lip does curl (it can be replaced) If this dash has not curled yet.... sweet.

I am really enjoying mine. I STRONGLY suggest cruising www.nastyz28.com (http://www.nastyz28.com ) to learn more about what you would be buying. I hang out there too.

Enjoy!

[qwik1320]

Check the rear frame rails back where the rear of the spring mounts onto the shackles. Take the shackles and shake 'em back and forth and see if the frame flexes. The inner rear wheel housings in front of the rear tire is another spot. Take a flashlight and see what's left of the inner lower rear body panel too (between the tank and the outer panel, from the bumber down).

[Nutsy]

Wow guys. Thanks for all the great info! I will let you know how it turns out!

Trev

[David Pozzi]

Any steel hood second gen, do not close the hood by lowering it till the latch touches and then placing the heel of your hand on the hood center and shoving, it dents the hood, it's too flat right there. I get it about a foot from closed, then fling it shut. It seems a little harsh but better than denting it.
I have had five second gen's in the family over the years.

The front subframe rails can fold inward with a heavy engine. Usually alignment problems are due to the lower A frame bushings distorting with age.
David