Ball joint exstenders. No not those ones.. Suspension guys comment please

[LowBuckX]

Everyone that anwsered before the original post and pics where taken down Thank you very much for the help its greatly appreciated. I respect your comments and take the knowledge and move on.

[nitrorocket]

I have thought about that idea myself, but had the same questions as you.

The way I see it, it would work as long as the material itself had the correct elongation and tensil properties.

Someone just has to make them... I would buy a set and beat the snot out of them.

[Norm Peterson]

I think I'd like to see some fatigue testing, as there will be reversed bending stresses involved and there are a number of locations at which stresses will tend to concentrate/intensify based on abrupt changes in part thickness.

I'm thinking that a number of critical sections will exist other than the one at the fillet between the external taper and the shoulder. Others will occur based on the profile of the internal threaded/tapered hole.

Details regarding the blind hole matter - is a section view available?

I think I'd prefer to see a roll pin, rather than a soft steel cotter pin. The situation here isn't quite the same as for a normal ball joint nut, where the taper lock that develops on the stud is separate from the ability of the threaded fasteners to loosen. Of course, any holes will introduce new locations of stress intensification.

Better yet might be an interference thread form. Perhaps with threadlocking compound as well.


Norm

[nitrorocket]

Flat out, the biggest issue is going to be trying to torque the adaptor tight to the ball joint itself. Unless you had a balljoint that ould be dissasembled to be able to torque the adaptor to the stud.

[pav8427]

Shrink fit like they use for some of the high end CNC tooling would work if designed right.

[terryr]

I had the same thought, but how to tighten them in a practical way?

[pav8427]

heat,screw,cool

[nitrorocket]

Why doesn't somebody just make a standard non rebuildable cheap balljoint, like every other ball joint at $30 each. It would be cheap and work like the $90 per piece rebuildable ones. As much as most of our cars get driven, its not like we have to worry about rebuilding all the time.

[LowBuckX]

Why doesn't somebody just make a standard non rebuildable cheap balljoint, like every other ball joint at $30 each. It would be cheap and work like the $90 per piece rebuildable ones. As much as most of our cars get driven, its not like we have to worry about rebuilding all the time.

Agreed

[pav8427]

Didn't I read hear that some late 60's truck BJ's are taller and a close to a 'bolt in'?

Doug

[LowBuckX]

Everyone that anwsered before the original post and pics where taken down Thank you very much for the help its greatly appreciated. I respect your comments and take the knowledge and move on.

[Marcus SC&C]

Why doesn't somebody just make a standard non rebuildable cheap balljoint, like every other ball joint at $30 each. It would be cheap and work like the $90 per piece rebuildable ones. As much as most of our cars get driven, its not like we have to worry about rebuilding all the time.

Last I looked the auto parts stores were full of cheap ball joints....
If you mean a cheap "tall" ball joints there`s a very good reason. Factory ones that are much taller are also much larger and won`t fit stock spindles. They`re larger because the cheap sintered iron ball pressed onto a med. carbon steel pin enclosed in a spot welded stamped housing construction isn`t strong enough to take the extra loads unless the whole thing is physically larger.
To make a "normal" sized ball joint that will fit into the existing small passenger car tapers (they can be the same degree of taper but be totally different sizes BTW) but is enough taller to effect some real geometry change AND hold up to the rigors of high performance street and race driving takes a whole different animal. That`s why the modular ball joints use CNC machined high tensile strength steel for their one piece pins and housings,each heat treated to a specific hardness and ductility. After feedback from dozens (hundreds?) of race teams and crashes (gotta love those circle track guys) they`ve been proven to shrug off impacts that would literally tear stock ball joints apart. Often OE arms are bent and have to be discarded but the ball joints are saved to put in the replacement arms. You gotta love that. :twothumbs Do you need that kind of strength on the street? No,of course not but you can have it AND all the geometry gains that can come with them for a few extra bucks over the OE stuff. I dunno,to me it`s a no brainer. If you wanna skimp do it on the speakers or floormats or something. Mark SC&C

[LowBuckX]

I dont care how far I bend over or how far you reach up you will not find $200 for ball joints. Sorry . Push your product on some one else.

Everyone that anwsered before the original post and pics where taken down Thank you very much for the help its greatly appreciated. I respect your comments and take the knowledge and move on.

[TitoJones]

I dont care how far I bend over or how far you reach up you will not find $200 for ball joints. Sorry . Push your product on some one else.

Whoa, uncalled for. He was giving expert tech advise on why tall ball joints are not found at AutoZone. I don't see a price or call us for more details anywhere in his post. You asked for suspension experts and he is one of many on this board. Don't ask for feedback if you don't like the answers given.

Tyler

[Norm Peterson]

:dunno: I didn't think the pitch was delivered THAT hard. Plenty of legitimate, free tech. Never mind that it was in reply to somebody else's post.

[formula]

wow, apparently you just won't be able to reach the $200 because of all the sticks in the way. I hope you don't burn bridges like that in real life...

I, for one, appreciated the tech included in the post. I figured it had to be a durability issue, and marcus confirmed it. Anytime someone wants to tell me i'm right, i'm all for it :Alchy:

[LowBuckX]

Everyone that anwsered before the original post and pics where taken down Thank you very much for the help its greatly appreciated. I respect your comments and take the knowledge and move on.

[LowBuckX]

Don't ask for feedback if you don't like the answers given.

Tyler

Whoa buddy. The post and pics asking for feed back on was taken down way before he made comment on something other than what I posted. I took everyones ealyier advise and pulled the post and pics so I can figure something else out.

[TitoJones]

Nice phantom edit. What you wrote last night was of a different tune, but okay, I'll play along.

You wanted feedback, I checked this thread early on but did not have time to respond to it while you had the pics up. Marcus more than likely did the same thing. I didn't know it was time sensitive.

I have the info you asked for on ball joint tapers; it is 7 degrees or roughly 1.5 inches per taper foot for early 1st gen A, F and X body stuff.

Good luck with your project.

Tyler

[1971novaSS]

Wow, talk about tension..... haha, But i would like to thank marcus and the other for the information on the ball joint situation, Im not very knowledgable on ball joints and loved the info.

Just sayin thanks for your time! :smoke:

Renn(currently procrastinating, Rear suspensions are a &!%#@)