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BIG BOY
03-24-2007, 08:26 PM
What is the best setup for all out handeling? Not concerned about drag racing just a car that will "STICK" in the corners. I do want to get away from the leaf spring rear suspension but do not have the cash to go with IRS. Any info is greatly appereciated.


Thanks

Tim

CarlC
03-24-2007, 08:30 PM
Welcome aboard Tim.

You may want to try a site search. There have been many dicussions on this topic.

vanzuuk1
03-25-2007, 03:33 AM
Hello Tim, I would do a search and read through this section.Read Carls site (above) and david pozzis site. Go to the websites for Detroit speed,ats and global west, I think its a good idea to stay with one company for all the suspension parts, its just simpler and everything should "work" together.

David Pozzi
03-25-2007, 11:02 AM
Frankly I'd put a suspension kit on the car and drive it for a while, then go from there if you feel you need more. Wide sticky tires and the normal shocks and springs will get you more stick than a new sub and rear suspension type will. Changing subs and rear suspension will mainly gain you some precision in control.

Any of the kits from Hotchkis, Global West, or Detroit Speed are good and with good wheels and tires will stick like you won't believe. I'm talking about keeping the leaf spring suspension. You can use something else in the rear and even add a new front subframe but those parts are only worth a small amount of lap time. Is making your car a couple of tenths faster worth $10,000?

I just saw the Detroit Speed front subframe yesterday and it's awesome looking. The Art Morrison sub is very nice too. The DSE sub is from $4800 to $8000 depending on options. These allow wider tires up front and better steering feel with a properly set up rack and pinion, also a small weight savings over stock. A stock subframe with the usual mods will come close to the aftermarket subs and make most people happy.
David

BIG BOY
03-27-2007, 06:25 AM
Thanks for all the info. it has been a great help. what kind of parts of are you speaking of for the front suspension. is the aftermarket sub @$5000 cost effective?


Thanks

baz67
03-27-2007, 09:26 AM
Thanks for all the info. it has been a great help. what kind of parts of are you speaking of for the front suspension. is the aftermarket sub @$5000 cost effective?


Thanks

I say no. You can get incredible performance for much much cheaper.

Taylor1969
03-27-2007, 10:05 AM
Front suspension for the budget conscious -

< $2000

ATS Spindles
Upper and lower GW Delalum Bushings
GW springs
Stock C5 Calipers, rotors, pads
Hotchkis Swaybar
Bilstein shocks
90 Iroc steering Box

BIG BOY
03-27-2007, 10:52 AM
Taylor thanks for the list. how about the rear?

Thanks

Damn True
03-27-2007, 11:00 AM
You can do a lot of great things with a leaf setup. Many here have proven that. Steve-O comes to mind first and foremost.

Beyond that there are the aftermarket setups from DSE (4-link) and Lateral-Dynamics (3-link). Each has their plusses and minuses and the decision between the two should be predicated on the intended use of the car. If you'll never see a track or auto-x then the DSE will provide more comfort, an easier install and a slightly quieter ride at the cost of adjustability and precision in terms of axle movement.

If you do intend to track or auto-x the car then the LD setup will provide the precision and adjustability required though at the cost of a more complex install and more cockpit noise. Both of the latter will set you back well over $4k while the leaf option (which can be damn good) will of course be much less.

Taylor1969
03-27-2007, 11:40 AM
Taylor thanks for the list. how about the rear?

Thanks

Many people here do the Cat5 setup from Global west or a regular DSE/hotchkis/GW/EATON spring.

It is all about the budget

I personally went with GW l2 springs with PU bushings (i got everything from Jegs for under $450 shipped.

I am going to try this out for a while and see how it goes.

68firebird
03-27-2007, 01:02 PM
I've got a 68 firebird and the way I'm goin is:

front: hotchkis springs (lowers by 2 inches)
polygraphite rebuild kit
edelbrock performer shocks
guldstrand modification
sway bar ( unsure of brand yet)

Rear: hotchkis sport leaf springs( lowers by 1 1/2 inches)
edelbrock performer shocks


also have some global west subframe connectors and global west solid body mounts. I have some of these parts now, but am saving slowly to get them all. I might put in a 6 point cage too, but I'm still debating if its cost effective. then obviously a new set of rims and tires, but I haven't even thought of what I want yet.

I hoping this will get me what I'm looking for in handling for the bird.

Boulder69
03-27-2007, 06:54 PM
Also don't forget custom leafs. I was surprised how affordable a set of race ready springs built for your car can be.

Chicane67 will chime in sooner or later....

BIG BOY
03-28-2007, 12:28 PM
Thanks Again. Keep Em Coming.

Thanks

eville
03-28-2007, 03:22 PM
For now, my plan is:

Front:
Speedtech UCA/LCA with Del-A-Lum Bushings
ATS Tall Spindle
Hotchkis Springs
Hotchkis (Anti)Sway Bar
C5 Brakes (thanks steve rupp)
18x9.5" Forgeline wrapped in 275/35/18 Nitto NT01s
Edelbrock IAS Shocks
3rd Gen. Steering Box

Rear:
Hotchkis Leaf Springs
18x9.5" Forgeline wrapped in 275/35/18 Nitto NT01s
Edelbrock IAS Shocks

I plan to upgrade the following at a later date:
Replace E'brock shocks with Bilsteins from Hotchkis
Replace 3rd gen box with ATS/Lee box
Improve Power Steering System (ala CarlC)
and maybe someday do a 3 link like Penny has.

TLWiltman
03-29-2007, 12:06 AM
My list (for a second gen):
Rear:
L-D 3-link
18x12 CCW wheels
335/30ZR18 Toyo RA-1

Front:
Most of it is up in the air at this point...
L-D control arms and coil-over mounts
Stock Car Products custom spindles and adjustable steering arms.
Haven't decided on the steering box yet
Allstar Performance adjustable centerlink
Wheel/tire size still up in the air a bit

Shocks/springs are still open.

Taylor1969
03-29-2007, 05:20 AM
For now, my plan is:

Front:
Speedtech UCA/LCA with Del-A-Lum Bushings
ATS Tall Spindle
Hotchkis Springs
Hotchkis (Anti)Sway Bar
C5 Brakes (thanks steve rupp)
18x9.5" Forgeline wrapped in 275/35/18 Nitto NT01s
Edelbrock IAS Shocks
3rd Gen. Steering Box

Rear:
Hotchkis Leaf Springs
18x9.5" Forgeline wrapped in 275/35/18 Nitto NT01s
Edelbrock IAS Shocks

I plan to upgrade the following at a later date:
Replace E'brock shocks with Bilsteins from Hotchkis
Replace 3rd gen box with ATS/Lee box
Improve Power Steering System (ala CarlC)
and maybe someday do a 3 link like Penny has.

You will have some fitment problems with the 275's up front. You may also want to look at a 40 series in the rear - they will give you a little more height

eville
03-29-2007, 06:51 AM
You will have some fitment problems with the 275's up front. You may also want to look at a 40 series in the rear - they will give you a little more height

Can you elaborate more on the fitment issues? A 275/35/18 is the exact same measurement as a 275/40/17 that several here are running, including CarlC.
And your suggestion regarding 40 series in the rear, are you talking about sidewall height for ride comfort or height for stance?
Any first hand experiences you can share are greatly appreciated.

6'9"Witha69
03-29-2007, 08:15 AM
275/35 is rubber band thickness. Beware of potholes.

A search will yield many results. Page 2 of my site describes what I did as well. It is a little dated and waiting new pics, but you'll get the idea. Leaf springs are a very good way to go.

ITLBTU
03-29-2007, 09:26 AM
My project so far..

For the front:
GW UCA
GW LCA
GW Sub-frame Connector
QA1 Coil Over
ATS Tall Spindle
ATS Steering Box
All new MOOG Steering Components
Skulte 2” Wheel Adaptors

I’m still torn on the rear. I have some LT-1 rear discs so I need to relocate the shocks. Since I have to do that, I’m considering an alternative rear suspension. Right now I’m leaning towards a torque arm. I also had a set of wheels from my ’00 SS Camaro that are 17”x 9”. 255/40ZR-17’s in front, 285/40ZR-17’s in back.

Greg

eville
03-29-2007, 09:36 AM
275/35 is rubber band thickness. Beware of potholes.

Rubberband, really?
275/35/18 is 25.55" subtract 18" for the wheel. Save some for the bead you still have about 3" of sidewall. It's about 1/2" less than a 275/40 on a 17".

TitoJones
03-29-2007, 09:50 AM
The 'best' suspension based on geometry alone is going to be an aftermarket subframe from Art Morrison.
The 'best' suspension on a factory frame is going to come from our Chicane-LM front suspension kit which is based around our Tall AFX spindles. We also include a set of tubular upper and lower Global West control arms, aweld in coil over shock conversion with either Bilstein or Penske shocks, our 670 steering box, all new Moog steering linkage, solid body mounts, grade 8 hardware kit, and a new sway bar.

The camber gain, bump steer and caster gain on our Chicane-LM surpasses all aftermarket frames published geometery specs except for art Morrison.

Tyler

jwardjr
05-02-2007, 03:46 AM
I was looking at changing my upper control arms for more adjustability and was looking at SPC all steel set up for my 1st Gen. Camaro
Are these a good investment?

Thanks