Who's used POR-15?

[brrymnvette]

What are everyone's thoughts on the stuff? I'm going to be doing a Monte soon and was going to use this stuff on the frame and any susp pieces I could.


Thanks,
Andy

[NOPANTS-68]

I've used it several times with pretty good results. I found that many people have different ways to apply it. Some spray some brush. I used a cheap fine hair paint brush to do some chassis stuff with good results. I tried the foam brush and it was terrible leaving tons of little bubbles. Less is more as it flows out really well.

[Roadrage David]

its awesome to say the least!!! did my 69 gto roof inside and outside with 5 thin layers. as i did the boot and the inside of the floor pans. im going to do the bottom as wel .

[Goatman]

I've done two truck beds with it and will be using it on my GTO roof as well...

I love it!

[69TAPoser]

Used it on my subframe, great results...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Phil

[HILROD]

Long term, this stuff can be bad. I've removed all of this stuff on 3 different cars. It is fine for rusty stuff to seal it in and for its ease to apply. On the cars I've seen after a few years it can de-laminate and peel. Expessially on cars used a lot. It can be murder to remove, parts of it will fall off others have to be burned off. The makers say it is not UV resistant, it even had trouble when topcoated with the chassis color they offer. I hate re-doing anything, I will not use it again.

[racereno]

What would be a better solution that doesn't include powder-coating?

[racereno]

No, let me take that a step further. I see alot of people making their frame pretty...on the outside. What is done to the inside of the frame? Especially at the rear of a g-body where the factory setup is prone to rust. I've bought some steel "bottle" brushes to chuck-up in a drill and TRY to take some scale off the inside of the frame-rails (following up with a rust converter in, maybe, a multi-directional undercoating nozzle), other than that, what can you do?

[the camtender]

1st used por 15 10 yrs ago on my subframe and susp. parts and had great results,no chipping ,no flaking,very chemical resistent.Just like anything else,if prep work is not done correctly results will very.
Like it so much I used it this 2nd time around (extreme make over).
Touch up size spray gun @ 30 psi,2 coats.Fast and easy,just don't get it on you.

Jerry

[Bow Tie 67]

I have used it and as long as the prep is done correctly, ie. clean metal or light rust it's a very durable product. I sprayed it on my 12 bolt after it had some light surface rust and it held up fine over 10 years. I did not use it over heavy rust only sandbalsted metal or light rust.

Matt

[Tom Welch]

I have seen good and bad results with POR-15, as others have said, the preparation is the key to this or any other paint for that matter.

[Goatman]

No, let me take that a step further. I see alot of people making their frame pretty...on the outside. What is done to the inside of the frame? Especially at the rear of a g-body where the factory setup is prone to rust. I've bought some steel "bottle" brushes to chuck-up in a drill and TRY to take some scale off the inside of the frame-rails (following up with a rust converter in, maybe, a multi-directional undercoating nozzle), other than that, what can you do?


Have it chem dipped, then have it dipped in rust preventor. Don't know where you'd get it done, but there's got to be someone who does it.

[racereno]

That's actually a good idea but, like you, I don't have a clue where to get it done.

[Damn True]

Anyone used both POR-15 and Eastwoods Rust Converter? I would be interested in hearing a comparison between the two.

[brrymnvette]

Yeah, my main concern is how to get it inside the frame. The G-Body frames suck after the rearend. I guess we'll try to find a place to dip it then figure out how to spray it in the frame.

[racereno]

At least during the frame notch I'll be able to get to almost all the rear portion of the frame inards (that's insides to those not in the south). And maybe that's the only part we should really be worried about but...

[MickyT]

You can get good coverage inside frames with a undercoating wand or my favourite a garden sprayer - the kind that you pump up to pressurize and has a flexible hose. Just plan to do it all at once and chuck the sprayer out afterwards. As far as POR 15 goes I have used it with very good results - good prep and roughed with 80 grit for adhesion.

[racereno]

WOW MickeyT!! That's one of those "why didn't I think of that" deals, plus a nice low $$ investment.

[Jim Nilsen]

The one thing about POR 15 that is a positive no matter what is it's chemical resistance and it's ability to get stronger with moisture.

When POR 15 will delaminate because of poor prep , the same poor prep would have been there with any other coating and the delamination process will be the same and you won't have the same protective qualities that you get with the POR 15.

I have had it last forever still and have had it delaminate because of the belief that sanding will leave a good suface on new metal. Don't leave out etching the steel and then cleaning really well. It's amazing stuff when done right and everything goes right on time.

Large areas need dedication to do and no plans for anything else. You have to be there for the 2nd coat and be ready to go when it gets just the right drag on the surface. It can happen anytime from within a couple of hours to as much as 8 hrs later. Humidity really does make a difference.

I too used an undercoating gun to spray inside my frame.

There are some really nice new coatings that will do as good and probably better than POR15 and also give you sound deadening and vibration reduction. Lizardskin is really nice stuff and several others are really good depending on how you apply them for thickness.

It's a tough choice and POR 15 is a reasonably priced choice.

Goodluck

[Rick Dorion]

Anyone used both POR-15 and Eastwoods Rust Converter? I would be interested in hearing a comparison between the two.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

[jeffandre]

I will be media blasting my parts before POR-15 hits them. Would it be better to let a coat of surface rust develop (I'm talking about days of bare metal exposure in my garage, not weeks) in order for the POR-15 to really bite?

[Mark Hamburg]

According to the POR-15 rep I bought my supply from, the metal should actually have just a touch of light rust in order for the product to adhere properly. Very light rust apparently gives the product something to bite into. It sounds crazy, but he strongly advised that I not apply the product to sparkling clean metal as it might delaminate. Whatever you do, DON'T USE WATER TO CLEAN THE PRODUCT OFF OF YOUR SKIN! It will only make it cling better because the product uses moisture to cure. Use lanolin-based handcleaner immediately.

POR-15's high-solids paints also work really well.

[racereno]

According to the POR-15 rep I bought my supply from, the metal should actually have just a touch of light rust in order for the product to adhere properly. Very light rust apparently gives the product something to bite into. It sounds crazy, but he strongly advised that I not apply the product to sparkling clean metal as it might delaminate.

Absolutly my thoughts on this. It is a Paint Over Rust or Rust Converter application so without rust, what are we doing here? I was left scratching my head after talking with a rep. My question was that, like most car guys, my frame had areas with surface rust and other areas that after pressure washing were not rusted due to a coating of motor oil, etc. He said the prep was the same: wash, then wire brushing would be sufficient, followed by the application of their metal prep (and that stuff ain't cheap). Makes me wonder exactly what their metal prep does...promote rust? I don't know.

I'm thinking Eastwood now.

[brrymnvette]

Just saw this tool on Eastwood's site. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=10966&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C372%2C373%2C376&KickerID=40&KICKER

Looks like it'd be good to get inside the frame.

[trapin]

Andy, I used POR-15 on my subframe. Followed all the directions. Handled the stuff like it was nitroglycerine, I was very careful in how it was applied. The frame was stripped and Metal Ready was applied before application. The following pictures show what happened a year later. I ended up having to have it re-stripped and then powder-coated. I have had no issues with it since.

[racereno]

WHOA! trapin, that is some serious sh**! Wonder if anyone had that happen with the Eastwood stuff.

[MonzaRacer]

POR 15 requires some rust (oxidation) to work real well also it requires some real cleaning and will never stick to galvanization.
Eastwood has a similar product too.
also I do believe they have an etching compound to prep the surface.And practice makes perfect.
I know one body shop that buys it in 55 gal drums and never has problems (it is a derivative of the battleship repair paint/putty the government uses but it requires some carefull prep to top coat too.

[Jim Nilsen]

Tony, I had the same thing happen on a test piece I did. I had a piece of I beam that was rusty as hell and I cleaned it up and when I got done with any other part I was doing I put everything I could get off of the brush on the I beam by pressing hard to get it all off the brush. Even with 2 coats it did the same thing. Then i realized that I had made it so thin on the high spots that it didn't have any protection like it should. I have found that if you brush it on you have to make sure you are leaving enough on and not spreading it too thin. That is why I sprayed mine on and found through testing that you don't want to thin it as they recommend because it will cause the same problems.

If I was doing it all over again I would try the Eastwood product since technology has progressed and it is also easier to use both in application and time.

If you don't get the por15 right it is not a good choice, so if you have any doubt about being able to get it right the Eastwood product is again the way to go.

I have seen por15 adhere so well that you couldn't get it off with a hammer and it was almost impossible to scrape through even with a sharp scribe. It is good stuff when done right !

Goodluck

[aussiebj]

I have used it on all my cars over the years but only on floor pans and frame rails i did paint it on a newly installed floor pan and as everyone says it just peeled up i also worked in a mustang resto shop for 2 years where i learned about the stuff and he also used it on all his restos but he only used it on rusty metal and only brushed it on also i have found that the only paint color i will use is the black i have had no comebacks from any work i have done since using POR 15 i love it ..just dont get it on your skin.....

[brrymnvette]

So, to bring this back to light. I'm just going to knock off the flaky rust on a 25+ year old frame with a wire brush, then paint this stuff onto a rusty frame. Sounds like it is how it's supposed to be?

[Patrick]

I painted my Jeep frame with POR15 about 7yrs ago. So far the results have been very good-- and I abuse it. I did however take the time to prep it very well and I also used their metal etching solution.

[rawpwr7]

POR-15 it works and it a good product i have used it and it has held up in the truck of my nova with little to no prep.