what to do with $400?

[65MALI]

Okay.I got about $400 bucks to spend on my 65 chevelle's brakes.I already have earlier chevelle disc brakes up front but their due to be freshened up.My question is should just rebuild my current set up using Napa parts or should I go with a brake kit from from cpp or other after market companies that offer disc brake kits.Im not looking for anything fancy right now,Im not gonna be seeing any track days anytime soon.Just mainly street driving.I just dont wanna waste my time chasing individual parts.
I got a buddy selling an SSBC quick caliper change kit and swears that I can use on my chevelle using dropped spindles.Any insight would be good. thanks

[chicane67]

$400 eh? I would definately think about something better to provide some better whoa. But if you had something better in mind for the brake system later, I would do something like ball joints and tie rods... unless you planned something for them later, like replacing the control arms or something like that.

I would really want to do something that would minimize down time and add the most saftey and durability for the buck. Maybe a new steering box and tie rods ?? Take a look at Touring Classics>>>> a sponser here.

But for a simple refresher, some good pads, new rotors and some wheel bearings would not be a bad idea for the money. Some simple maintance now can prevent a lot more work later, that is for sure.

[Damn True]

If you don't already have them, quality pads and braided lines perhaps?

[65MALI]

thanks for the reply guys.I guess ill be going with the rebuild.Ill look into the hawk pads and some stainless lines.I just wanna get her back on the road.I know $400 bucks is not alot of money,but its definately a start.

[MonzaRacer]

Hawk or Performance Friction pads, stainless lines, maybe look for some replacement drilled rotors, You can get reman calipers for cheap anymore and fresh ones have less problems in my world, another big up grade for me would be to look for some 11 inch drum brakes from 73-77 A body and do a swap, barring a tone of cash the good pads and a some premium grade brakes in the 11 inchers and you can have some serious brakes for less cash.
I have done several of these and the difference was incredible, and the brakes would really have to be beat on to fade.
Good Luck
Lee

[LowBuckX]

I know what I did with 400 bucks. :smoke:

You willing to fab???????

This info is in no way a direct bolt on and I take no responsability for what you do with the info provided.
$400 will get you big cheap fronts and rear discs.

My set up started with stock power disc/drum
You must remember I had cores so no core charges applied to my build.
I also Did all fab and machine work.

Front (Napa numbers)
2004 Corvette rotors PN (L) 86701 $27.99
(R) 86700 $27.99
1972 Chevy Truck ½ ton calipers (L) 2422000 $16.99
(R) 2422001 $16.99

From McMaster I bought 5/8 – 18 x 1 ½ Bolts $7
Stock Soft lines work for these calipers. Also most Napas will take your
stock calipers as cores.

Total $89.96 + tax

Rear (Advance auto Numbers)
1980 Pontiac Trans Am Rotors 5044 $42.99 x2
!980 Chevrolet Malibu Calipers 184071 $10
184072 $10
Hoses 1980 Malibu front 436847 $12 x 2
Ebay brackets $100 (shipped)

Other parts
68 Vette Master 1 1/8 bore 101423 $21
Residual pressure check Willwood $16

[MonzaRacer]

Low bucks idea works good too.

[LT1Nova]

Lowbuck,

I saw the photos in your virtual garage, do you have any more to share? Any pics of the rear install?

Was the major reason for going with the truck calipers cost? As opposed to a Vette/Camaro caliper?

Also I thought the residual pressure valves were only for when the m/c is mounted lower than the calipers.

[vintageracer]

Titty Bar!

Oh! I should have read the post. $400 on Brakes!

For cheap I also vote for the 11 inch rear drums. I just bought a set last week complete at the JY for $20.00.

If you want to spend a little extra on LowBux front brakes you can also buy a set o Wilwood aluminum calipers that will also bolt on. They are just like the 72 truck calipers, just aluminum.

[LowBuckX]

The Ebay brackets are for the rear As they are listed in the rear brake list. Steeltech is the company.

I used the stock brackets and modded them to fit

[LT1Nova]

I saw your photos and edited my post. I will look for the rear bracket on ebay. Thanks.

[Skip Fix]

There are some Circle track sduppliers that have bolt on rear caliper brackets for GM type calipers that clamp around the rear tube, easier than welding.

[LowBuckX]

I saw your photos and edited my post. I will look for the rear bracket on ebay. Thanks.


http://www.steeltechsolutions.com/REAR_DISC_PAGE_CODE.html

[LowBuckX]

There are some Circle track sduppliers that have bolt on rear caliper brackets for GM type calipers that clamp around the rear tube, easier than welding.

not sure what welding is needed for the rear. mine bolted right on.

[Skip Fix]

Some bracket's I've seen have to be welded to the tube.Others probably like yours are similar to a Caddy or TA factory and bolt on the end.

The clamp on can be slid to get the correct centering if the caliper for soem rreason is not centered(different axles length).

[65MALI]

Titty Bar!

Oh! I should have read the post. $400 on Brakes!

For cheap I also vote for the 11 inch rear drums. I just bought a set last week complete at the JY for $20.00.

If you want to spend a little extra on LowBux front brakes you can also buy a set o Wilwood aluminum calipers that will also bolt on. They are just like the 72 truck calipers, just aluminum.

Are these the GMIII calipers.or the DYNALITE'S?Always wondered if the dynalites bolted right on?

[LowBuckX]

Lowbuck,


Was the major reason for going with the truck calipers cost? As opposed to a Vette/Camaro caliper?

Also I thought the residual pressure valves were only for when the m/c is mounted lower than the calipers.

Reason for truck calipers are 1 they fit stock caliper brakets 2 they fit the 1 1/4 rotor while using stock pads. 3 yes they are cheap

I only needed the resuduals checks in the rear line to hold some pressure on the calipers. The 80 Malibu fronts are a low drag design and when you take all the pressure off them they retract to far and causes exess pedal travel. ...