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sonic69
02-28-2007, 02:35 AM
Is there any special coolant to run or not to run in an aluminum radiator? I've heard guys at the engine shop talk about not running some type of coolant with aluminum heads.

Yelcamino
02-28-2007, 08:27 AM
I don't know what brand rad you have, but the guys at Ron Davis told me whatever I do, don't use the coolant additive that Royal Purple makes. So with that said, I have standard green coolant in my AFR headed BBC and Ron Davis radiator with no problems. Another thing to note, try not to use any brass fittings in your system because the different metals will cause corrosion. Hope this helps.

71Formula
02-28-2007, 10:33 AM
I don't know what brand rad you have, but the guys at Ron Davis told me whatever I do, don't use the coolant additive that Royal Purple makes. So with that said, I have standard green coolant in my AFR headed BBC and Ron Davis radiator with no problems. Another thing to note, try not to use any brass fittings in your system because the different metals will cause corrosion. Hope this helps.

I have heard something about the problems with mixing metals, does that mean that you shouldn't run an aluminum radiator with an iron block?

Samckitt
02-28-2007, 11:57 AM
I have heard a few people say not to use the orange dexcool fluid with aluminum heads. I guess that could go the same for radiator. LT1's came from the factory with iron blocks & aluminum heads, so I don't think iron block / aluminum radiator would be any different. But then also I believe the LT1's used the orange dexcool fluid.

John McIntire
02-28-2007, 05:40 PM
I believe I saw someone makes a sacrificial anode that goes in the drain hole. I think i saw it in summit or in a magazine. I remember hearing bad things about GM's dexcool, but dont really remember what it was. Do a search on here, I believe it was covered. I plan on running the green stuff, along with some water wetter from Red Line.

Yelcamino
03-01-2007, 02:41 AM
I have heard something about the problems with mixing metals, does that mean that you shouldn't run an aluminum radiator with an iron block?

To my knowledge there isn't in issue with the iron/aluminum combo, I think the problem comes from the brass itself. Maybe Tim (porschev8) will chime in with a more technical explanation.

jsconiers
03-01-2007, 07:57 AM
GM dealers tell you that if you run regular anti freeze in the aluminum blocks it will cause damage.....

6'9"Witha69
03-01-2007, 08:42 AM
GM dealers tell you that if you run regular anti freeze in the aluminum blocks it will cause damage.....:bsjerk:

Mixing the metals does cause corosion. It is an electric difference between the metals. The sacrificial anode takes the damage and saves the other parts.

I think it was Chicane or BAZ who said a few days ago to just use Water and WaterWetter.

CliffS
03-01-2007, 12:12 PM
I use the pink fluid they sell overhere, special for alum. rad., heads and bloks. No issues yet.

Bandit
03-01-2007, 12:52 PM
I don't know what brand rad you have, but the guys at Ron Davis told me whatever I do, don't use the coolant additive that Royal Purple makes. So with that said, I have standard green coolant in my AFR headed BBC and Ron Davis radiator with no problems. Another thing to note, try not to use any brass fittings in your system because the different metals will cause corrosion. Hope this helps.
I agree you should use green coolant in the rad, most places advise using a good coolant like Prestone, according to one's website "not less than 30% and not more than 50%." Also, they always recommend distilled water, not spring or tap water due to its corrosive attributes.

On the other hand, about the brass fittings, I guess someone needs to tell these guys they can't use them: (This is my new Howe radiator) :dunno:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/57828614-1.jpg

BADVELLE
03-01-2007, 01:51 PM
Don't use the green ethyl glycol, use the propylene glycol, not only does it have prevent metallic corrosion, but is also safe for kids, pets and the "dirt"!

Yelcamino
03-01-2007, 01:56 PM
On the other hand, about the brass fittings, I guess someone needs to tell these guys they can't use them: (This is my new Howe radiator) :dunno:


I don't know what to say about that. Here's a direct quote from the info that comes with each Ron Davis rad:

"Electrolysis - Electrolysis is the systematic removal of the protective layer on the inside of the radiator tubes due to improper grounding. Electrical grounding problems can stem from poor installation of aftermarket accessories or incorrect vehicle collision damages on street applications. Any brass components in the cooling system are to be avoided because brass promotes electrolysis."

So there you have it. Maybe Howe doesn't feel the same way about electrolysis as RD. :dunno:

Mike Holleman
03-01-2007, 04:32 PM
Sonic69, Your post was about the best coolant in aluminum radiators. Dexcool is fine in aluminum rads, with alum or cast iron heads. However, if you still have an original heater coil, brass and soldered joints do not use Dexcool. It does not like solder and will weaken your joints and cause leaks. And by all means premix your coolant with distilled water. 30 to 50 percent depending on how far north you live.

Mark Smith
03-01-2007, 04:50 PM
I used the dexcool orange stuff in a truck I had that had a lt1 iron block aluminum heads motor. the radiator was a griffin aluminum which I bought brand new.truck had a vintage air unit not sure what material core is made from.after about 2 months truck started to run hot.opened drain pet **** and nothing came out.found that entire bottom of rad. had a gooey white crap substanc in it.had to use a coat hanger thru the lower hose hole to get it all out.I personally will never use the stuff again.I live in florida so I dont have any freeze issues,I would use only water wetter.

67 455 Bird ragtop
03-02-2007, 07:24 AM
I agree you should use green coolant in the rad, most places advise using a good coolant like Prestone, according to one's website "not less than 30% and not more than 50%." Also, they always recommend distilled water, not spring or tap water due to its corrosive attributes.

On the other hand, about the brass fittings, I guess someone needs to tell these guys they can't use them: (This is my new Howe radiator) :dunno:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/57828614-1.jpg

Are we talking brass fittings in general ANYWHERE in the coolant path or just the attached to the radiator ??? Just confused since most temp senders are brass and screw into the alum manifold.

porschev8
03-02-2007, 02:58 PM
It is crucial that aluminum radiators are not used with plugs made of any material other than aluminum or stainless steel. If they are, then they become susceptible to electrolysis, an effect that will cause corrosion and eventual leakage. Distilled water must be used for the same reasons.
What is commonly mistaken for "normal" corrosion or wear caused simply by the movement of water throughout the motor and cooling system, in actuality, is caused by the chemical process known as electrolysis. When you have numerous dissimilar metals (brass, copper, aluminum, iron, etc...) and an acidic solution (anti-freeze and/or non-distilled water) in continuous contact with each other and then introduce an electrical current (as on a vehicle with poor grounding) this process can wreak havoc on these metals. Aluminum is especially susceptible.

Careful attention to maintenance is essential to ensure proper operation and long cooling system life. Ordinary tap water will not meet these requirements! Distilled water should always be used in the cooling system. The water purity and flow protection should then be periodically checked to insure against excessive degradation. Water purity can be seriously degraded by contaminants from the various cooling system components. For example, free oxygen and carbon dioxide in the coolant will form copper oxide on the surfaces of the coolant courses, particularly the anode itself, thereby reducing the cooling efficiency. The formation of these oxides is greatly accelerated by the elevated temperatures within the system. Electrolysis may also take place due to the presence of ions in the liquid and the electric potential across the coolant courses. Electrolysis may actually destroy the coolant passages whereas the oxide compounds can drastically reduce the heat transfer to the liquid coolant. In extreme cases, heavy oxide deposits can actually plug up coolant passages and reduce flow. Either of these may result in premature tube failure.
One failure mode associated with dirty coolant is known as electrolysis. Electrolysis occurs when stray electrical current routes itself through the engine coolant. The electricity is attempting to find the shortest path, and impurities in the coolant often generate a path of least resistance that the electricity travels across. The source of this stray electricity is often from electrical engine accessories which have not been properly grounded. A missing engine or transmission ground strap can also cause the coolant to become electrified. Sometimes the path of least resistance becomes a radiator, a heater hose, or even the heater core. These components are often well grounded, and offer a ground path from the engine to the chassis by means of the semi-conductive path of the coolant.

Electrolysis can destroy your radiator - Although it's normal to have very small amounts of voltage in your cooling system, values greater than about a tenth of a volt can start reactions between the coolant and aluminum components in your cooling system. In particular, electrolysis affects primarily aluminum radiator cores and aluminum engine components, resulting in pitting and scaring of the aluminum surface. This eating away of the metal can cause coolant system leaks, and in particular, radiator leaks throughout the core. Cast-iron components are also vulnerable, but typically the aluminum parts fail first.

The process works similar to electrical discharge machines (EDM). These machines work by passing a large electrical current through metal, literally zapping away bits of material until nothing remains. Unfortunately, the electrolysis process works in a similar way, zapping bits of metal in proportion to the amount of electrical current passing through the coolant. A poorly grounded starter can literally destroy a radiator in a matter of days, depending upon how often the car is started. A smaller current drain, like an electric cooling fan, may slowing erode components over a couple of weeks or months.

How can you test for electrolysis? Other than actually seeing visible signs of erosion, you can perform a current flow test. Connect the negative terminal of a voltmeter to the chassis ground. Test for adequate continuity by touching another point on the chassis - the resistance should be near to zero. With the engine cold and running, submerge the positive probe into the coolant tank, making sure that the probe does not touch any metal parts. The voltage should be less than .10 volts. If not, methodically turn off or unplug each electrical accessory until the reading reads below .10 volts. Have an assistant switch accessories (like the A/C compressor, heater blower, etc.) while you measure the voltage. If an accessory doesn't have an on/off switch, test it by temporarily running a ground from the housing of the accessory to the chassis. Ground each component and check the volt meter. If the wire restores a missing ground connection to the accessory, then you've found a component with a faulty ground.
During this test, be sure to check the starter. Not only will a poorly grounded starter struggle to turn over the engine, it will also zap away tremendous amounts of metal in your cooling system. Watch the meter carefully when starting the engine. Any voltage spike will indicate a faulty ground connection.

chicane67
03-02-2007, 08:48 PM
Thank the radiator gods for Tim.

Good tech stuff...

porschev8
03-02-2007, 11:13 PM
Are we talking brass fittings in general ANYWHERE in the coolant path or just the attached to the radiator ??? Just confused since most temp senders are brass and screw into the alum manifold.

Try to keep brass fittings out of the aluminum radiator. Brass fittings in the intake manifold usually don't create a problem.

-Tim

67 455 Bird ragtop
03-03-2007, 04:26 AM
Ok Thanks.

JEFFTATE
03-26-2007, 05:45 AM
What about the trans. cooler line fittings ?
They kinda' look brass from the factory.

neki67
03-26-2007, 10:41 AM
I believe I saw someone makes a sacrificial anode that goes in the drain hole. I think i saw it in summit or in a magazine.

http://www.radcapproducts.com/radcap.html

LS6 Tommy
04-06-2007, 06:06 PM
There are a lot of myths and misconceptions flying around about this one. There is ALWAYS electrolysis present in a cooling system that has any dissimilar metals in it. Period. Not just aluminum and brass. Even with distilled H2O even if you don't use antifreeze. There are 2 ways to rid yourself of it:

1) Get a radiator cap with a sacrificial zinc anode. It will be attacked instead of your components. It does wear out and eventually need replacement.
2) Use Evans NPG coolant or any similar propylene glycol blend type of coolant.

It's also not a great idea to run 100% H2O in your ssytem becasue almost all cooling system pumps rely on the antifreeze for lubrication.

Tommy

johnny rockett
04-27-2007, 05:16 AM
I have been running water for years in Aluminum Radiators.....just recently I was welcomed with a small leak...probably from the water....However there is good news..........If you have not heard of it everybody listen up and do a search on "EVANS COOLANT"...amazing new product! I won't run anything else now.........stop the steam pockets from forming in all the crevices in your heads and block........To a certain degree the temp guage will not be as important anymore....It comes in three different viscosity's.... I wont run water again.......this stuff does what the water wetters claim they do but dont deliver...call their tech line and or read there great web site for all the technical information!

JEFFTATE
04-27-2007, 09:31 AM
I had a 1994 S10.
It used green antifreeze from the factory.
It had an aluminum head and an iron block. ( 2.2 4cyl )

Now I have a 1999 S10. ( 2.2 4cyl )
It also has an aluminum head and iron block , but it came from the factory with Dexcool .

I'm not so convinced that one or the other ( either Dexcool or Ethylene Glycol ) is worse as far as electrolysis is concerned.
I think you just need to used distilled water to mix the antifreeze with and have proper grounds , etc.. on the engine and other electrical components to help prevent electrolysis.

MonzaRacer
05-27-2007, 07:54 PM
Ok here are some straight facts.
Dexcool isnt bad in an all aluminum cooling system but if you have a newer gar with plastic fittings one of the organic acids in it will atack the black plastic and soften it as its a plasticizer.
As for me if I want to run a long life coolant in a car I would use distilled water and G-05 thats the Ford extended life coolant. Most supply chains are selling the unversal coolant and I dont like it but a s a tech i have to install what i am given.
Oh hey Jonny rocket evans NPG- plus and such have been around for years ,,,nothing new and I have bragged about it for years and used it as its a drop in no mixing, has a boiling point of 375 degrees and a freeze point of somthing like 50 below or so.
Evans Cooling pn number 888-990-2665 ask for NPG-R for street use. The regular NPG+ needs some different parts to flow correctly.
If you already have coolant in the system you will need some of thiere prep fluid to flush the block and system of water/coolant.
give them a call ,,good people but the stuff isnt cheap.
As for electrolysis it is negated if you use proper mix coolant and use distilled water .
The reason you want distilled is that the additives are working on the contaminates in the tap water.
One thing that you can do to reduce coolant corrosion reduction if using regular green is to fill it with no more than 70 percent and after about 3 or 4 months of driving and refill with fresh mix of coolant.
The reason is a new rad and if you have a new engine the surface of all the compnents will need some "break in" . no its not some idiot thing like the silicates coating anything but fresh metal surfaces exposed to new coolant change ever so slightly as they cure under heat and stress.
also if brass parts are bad in a cooling system then all the engines I build wit brass freeze plugs are junk huh.
Ron Davis get a life. I never liked my treatment from them anyway , almost as bad as Griffin.
I had to replace a radiator in a Monaco Motor coach and it had a Griffin rad in it and it was leaking. instead of just ordering the cooling system package (rad,trans cooler, inter cooler, shroud) we call Griffin, we ship them the old rad at our (customer cost) and they tell us 4 to 6 weeks then 6 to 8 weeks then we get the estimate from them and its within $3 of the complete unit from the supplier for Monaco(the warranty company wanted to just repalce the rad).
Last time i delt with Ron Davis we had a simple request, make the upper nest a different size and slightly angle it so we could use a different hose.
Hmm i dont think thats worth $275 ! $75 i would have paid for it.
Called a friend who is a fliudyne dealer and got the rad for $300 less and custome neck and angling too.
And this was with buddys company mark up.
good luck to all I use Green, G-05 or NPG-R for my projects customers.
Its all good just service your system every year and recycle the old.
Lee

Marktat
05-29-2007, 03:08 AM
I decided to go with the G-05 based fluid, which has been used in Daimler-Chrysler, some fords, and Volkswagen for years. It is compatible with traditional green stuff, which the GM-dexcool definitely isn’t. I based my decision on two excellent articles published in Car&Driver by Patrick Bedard, (a family friend and automotive engineer). He did some research, including interviews with chemists from major coolant manufacturers and concluded that older cars should stick with the green stuff or the G-05 based stuff. Apparently the GM Dexcool is very aggressive and only works in cars designed specifically for this coolant as it may damage gaskets, seals and corrode metal not alloyed specifically to handle Dexcool. I’m suspicious of the Dex-Cool…why doesn’t any other OEM use it? The G-05 coolant is supposed to have better anti corrosion characteristics than the green stuff, yet be
“gentle” enough for our keepers. Zerex sells the G-05 stuff and Ford sells it as “premium gold coolant”. Ford also sells “orange coolant” but its not G-05. I started using G-05 base in 2003 and it seems similar to the green stuff, except for a urine-like color and slight chlorine odor. It seems to stay cleaner looking longer than the traditional stuff yet can still be mixed with traditional coolant in pinch.

This web page has some of the best antifreeze info I have found.
http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/an...-questions.htm

MonzaRacer
06-06-2007, 08:26 PM
No G-05 isnt compatiable with green coolant.
ok coolant types and how to identify it:
American Green: A light medium green with inhibitors that include silicates and phosphates.
Prestone American Yellow Gold: Some think think it has a green cast to it but gold is the color of the dye. It also includes silicates and phosphates.
Dex-Cool Orange: An OAT (Organic Acid Technology)coolantthat features sebacateand the controversial 2-EHA (this is the plasticizer that eats up plastic componenets in the cooling system).Texaco Havoline (maker/developer),Prestone Extended Life and ZerexExtended Life make Dex-cool approvedcoolants(along with other types). It now only used in GM car from factory.
Japanese Green: Usually a deeper green than American green, with inhibitors that include phosphates (no silicates) It can be either conventional OR extended life.
Toyota Red: A convetial Japanese coolant with phosphates but no silicates. Due to similarity in color it is often mistaken for Dex-cool particularly in Pontiac Vibesas they are made by Toyota.
toyota Pink and Honda Deep Green Extended Life: New extended life Japanese coolants that use phosphates for fast protection(no silicates) and a single organic acid (sebacate) and other inhibitors.
VW/Audi Pink: The version used in US sold models is an organic acid type,primarily sebacate. however, some european models reportedly use combinations of sebacate and 2-EHA, so it seems to be a matter of the supplier ratherthan the objection to 2-EHA (this is why most plastic outlets nad fittings on VWs get ate away.
European/Ford Yellow: More of a Yellow than Prestone American Yellow Gold. It's inhibitors include a low dose of silicates (no phosphates), plus benzoate.Its ofen called a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology or HOAT coolant, because benzoate is an OAT, though benzoate is not used in "true" OAT formulas.Euro yellow is soldd in the US Aftermarket as type G-05.A side note is that a lot of the supply houses are not getting true G-05 as it doesnt sell. the "will fits" are ususally Dex-cool varants.
Chrysler Group Orange: The dye is orange, but the formula is G-05, the same as European /Ford Yellow.
Korean Blue:you may also have seen blue dye in some european cars(BMW and Volvo, among others). It similar to European /Ford Yellow.
Brown: Usually a combination of 2 coolants mixed together by a top up---for example, orange coolant repeatedly topped off with green, gold or yellow.
It even may be an orange coolant discolored by heavy doses of sealer .
Hope some of this is informative to all.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

Marktat
06-08-2007, 02:07 AM
This chart is helpful:

http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/Coolants_matrix.pdf

According to a Zerex engineer the G-05 can be mixed with traditional green stuff in an emergency.

CliffS
06-08-2007, 11:02 AM
No G-05 isnt compatiable with green coolant.
ok coolant types and how to identify it:
American Green: A light medium green with inhibitors that include silicates and phosphates.
Prestone American Yellow Gold: Some think think it has a green cast to it but gold is the color of the dye. It also includes silicates and phosphates.
Dex-Cool Orange: An OAT (Organic Acid Technology)coolantthat features sebacateand the controversial 2-EHA (this is the plasticizer that eats up plastic componenets in the cooling system).Texaco Havoline (maker/developer),Prestone Extended Life and ZerexExtended Life make Dex-cool approvedcoolants(along with other types). It now only used in GM car from factory.
Japanese Green: Usually a deeper green than American green, with inhibitors that include phosphates (no silicates) It can be either conventional OR extended life.
Toyota Red: A convetial Japanese coolant with phosphates but no silicates. Due to similarity in color it is often mistaken for Dex-cool particularly in Pontiac Vibesas they are made by Toyota.
toyota Pink and Honda Deep Green Extended Life: New extended life Japanese coolants that use phosphates for fast protection(no silicates) and a single organic acid (sebacate) and other inhibitors.
VW/Audi Pink: The version used in US sold models is an organic acid type,primarily sebacate. however, some european models reportedly use combinations of sebacate and 2-EHA, so it seems to be a matter of the supplier ratherthan the objection to 2-EHA (this is why most plastic outlets nad fittings on VWs get ate away.
European/Ford Yellow: More of a Yellow than Prestone American Yellow Gold. It's inhibitors include a low dose of silicates (no phosphates), plus benzoate.Its ofen called a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology or HOAT coolant, because benzoate is an OAT, though benzoate is not used in "true" OAT formulas.Euro yellow is soldd in the US Aftermarket as type G-05.A side note is that a lot of the supply houses are not getting true G-05 as it doesnt sell. the "will fits" are ususally Dex-cool varants.
Chrysler Group Orange: The dye is orange, but the formula is G-05, the same as European /Ford Yellow.
Korean Blue:you may also have seen blue dye in some european cars(BMW and Volvo, among others). It similar to European /Ford Yellow.
Brown: Usually a combination of 2 coolants mixed together by a top up---for example, orange coolant repeatedly topped off with green, gold or yellow.
It even may be an orange coolant discolored by heavy doses of sealer .
Hope some of this is informative to all.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

That is some good information! I still didn't decide what to use for my engine with alu rad, heads and fittings. I used the VW/Audi pink in previous set up but don't know if it's the right choice. It contains 1,2-ethaandiol, a scan of the label down below.

MonzaRacer
06-09-2007, 11:39 PM
The VW stuff is DEXcool.
As for what to run just use a good antifreeze thats new , mix it with distilled water and that will protect no matter what. Just service your coolant every year or two nad its fine.
Everyone makes a big thing about coolant types.
Now as for me I intend to use Evan Cooling sytems NPG-R (Evans Cooling 1-888-990-2665) it boils at 375 deg F and lasts forever.
But as for me if I used an extended life antifreeze I would use G-05.
BUT as for G-05 being so much better to add to a car on top up THEY ALL CAN BE TOPPED UP WITH THE OTHER TYPES!
Dont be fooled. See unless you are using Siera antifreeze (propylene glycol, safe for animals abut not covered under warranties on new cars) or the Evans Cooling product they are all ethylene Glycol and can be used with each other BUT some additive packages can react with each other.
If you have a latemodel GM with Dex in it and top up with green you need to have flush done or if neglected it can start sludging, this is the silicates and suspended metallic compounds from compnenet erosion, reacting with air in the system.
Dex-Cool by its self will react with air in the system too causing similar problems (ever see rad cap in mid to late 90s ,,this was when GM was getting Dex premixed and it was mixed wrong,,,,they now mix it as it goes in.
Evans Cooling, better cooling and the guy I talked to took some out of a street rod like last ear and it was 7 yrs old and got put back in as the system still looked like new.
Good luck with what ever you use.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

calforniacuda
06-10-2007, 11:56 AM
Just a quick comment. Water has a higher specific heat capacity than any antifreeze, meaning that it will be more efficient at removing heat from the engine. Many people think that the situation is the other way around.

Bandit
06-11-2007, 01:32 AM
Just a quick comment. Water has a higher specific heat capacity than any antifreeze, meaning that it will be more efficient at removing heat from the engine. Many people think that the situation is the other way around.
True, but it doesn't provide the necessary corrosion protection for your coolant system. If a car is set up with an aluminum 2-row radiator and dual electric puller fans, it should run plenty cool with a glycol/water mix. If not, you've got other problems, like a thermostat problem or a clog or maybe a head gasket not sealing properly.

calforniacuda
06-11-2007, 08:02 AM
I just wanted to make the point that water is the best coolant. Using water wetter or something like it takes care of lubrication issues. Sometimes another 20% efficiency is helpful.

MickyT
06-12-2007, 07:49 PM
I have aluminum AFR heads, the only fittings I could find for them were brass, is this a no no and if so any ideas where aluminum or other suitable metal fittings can be purchased?

Bandit
06-13-2007, 11:00 PM
Summit racing has the aluminum plug sets with allen heads--I have them on my alum. Brodies and alum. intake and they look sharp! I am sure some sponsors here can get them too, I just don't know who.

68Formula
06-13-2007, 11:34 PM
I hate the term "coolant" as it implies it is for cooling. I actually know a guy who decided to run straight antifreeze to "reduce engine heat." Hopefully we convinced him otherwise.

67 caprice
06-21-2007, 03:12 PM
I believe I saw someone makes a sacrificial anode that goes in the drain hole. I think i saw it in summit or in a magazine. I remember hearing bad things about GM's dexcool, but dont really remember what it was. Do a search on here, I believe it was covered. I plan on running the green stuff, along with some water wetter from Red Line.

Here is one.
http://www.rbsobsolete.com/product.asp?Product_Id=233159&d_Id=22755&l1=22755&l2=

MonzaRacer
06-22-2007, 07:11 PM
OK if the problem is with Brass then most waterpumps are in trouble as some of the compnenets of the seal pack is brass.
Here it is, ethylene glycol is a decent mixant for antifreeze/antiboil and carrier for the corrosion inhibitors.
Ethylene glycol is a good carrier and as for straight water use it only if you install a true water pump lube ,,not water wetter or any surface tension reducer.
BUT propylene glycol (like Evans NPG-R) is slightly better but requires a slight stabilization additive but it makes it more cavitation resistant.
Also the Evans stuff actually last longer as it has no water in it.
AS for mixing metal its all good if you use proper coolant and follow the manufacturers recomendations.
You guys think all of your high aluminum content cars is different than say a Saturn or any other car with lots of aluminum in the system.
I dont care if you use antifreeze from Dollar General Store.
The base product and for the honest truth the fianl product comes all out of about one of 3 or 4 production plants unless its imported.
Remember when antifreeze made huge jump when one plant then another burnt a few years back.
IF you have a worry about the system, and corrosion, just service the system and dispose of it properly. Isnt $25 worth it and knowing you have protection?
IF not give Evans a call and order up some NPG+ or NPG-R and some flush if you have already installed the regular stuff and follow instructions.
http://www.evanscooling.com/
Just check this stuff out its the best coolant EVER for a high performance engine, well for any engine.
I intend to use it in my Monza if cash comes around.
Figure a $100 to $150 for coolant and its good for years.
Here is a quote off the website:

Evans Waterless Coolants are the ONLY 100% waterless automotive engine coolant available on the market. All Evans Waterless Coolants are a chemical blend that results in more efficient cooling due to a higher boiling point. The increased boiling point of the coolant eliminates the occurance of boil over, cavitation, and detonation. Not only do Evans Waterless Coolants not boil over, they do not freeze. At extreme cold temperatures the coolants contract and become extremely thick, not becoming solid and expanding like antifreeze containing water. Because Evans Waterless Coolants do not contain water electrolysis and corrosion are also eliminated. Every Evans Waterless Coolant requires the entire cooling system to be drained (radiator, engine block and heater core) and refilled 100% with one of the Evans Waterless Coolants. No need to add anything. Evans now has three different coolants to choose from depending on the application and use of your specific vehicle. Also available is a flush fluid for smaller engines without block drains.
NPG+ NPG-R NPG PREP

Read and learn. This stuff stops pump cavitation, nucleate boiling and corrosion, it wont freeze and the boiling point is 370 degrees at ZERO pressure.
You guys will spend a $1000 on some superduper cooling rad,fans that could pull a B52 bomber, and worried so hard about it.
Check the website, read the articles.
THIS IS THE COOLANT THAT WORKS!
HERE this is from the web site too:

Koenigsegg Automotive, manufacturer of the world's fastest production car, the Koenigsegg CCR (806HP 388Km/h), uses Evans NPG+ as their OEM engine coolant.

180SX_Faktory
07-13-2007, 02:51 PM
Here in the Middle East, the manufacturers of coolant have their own formula that is already pre-mixed, and it works great, especially with the high ambient air temps we have. So far, no rust. I had to change out a thermostat the other night, and I was totally impressed with how clean it and the water passages were, as well as the aluminum radiator. I heard about the waterless coolant, but man, that system has to be bone-dry of anything water-based, but it sounds like the benefits of no electrolysis, corrosion, pump cavitation sounds like the way to go.